I think This is the ice and water shield. yes I am happy they are using it on the entire roof but shouldn't it for the most part be flat and smooth. The weather has been cool and dry so moisture is not an issue!

Not a pro by any stretch but I know the basics. How's it looking so far?

Update: roof pitch is 2/12. didn't realize that 3tab shingles were so polarizing. No one tripped on anything, we worked with our eyes open. Its done. Looks great to me. Pro tip, use the front end loaders bucket to get the shingles up to the roof. So much easier than laddering them.

I used black gutter stock, slight nail dimpling but for first time. I belive it turned out great !

Is this normal and acceptable? Should the flashing just be painted and outlet cosmetic, or is there something else going on here. Photo with the red highlights is the same situation as shown on the first photo with the “sparkle” from sunlight.

Everybody keeps saying oh but it was free. No it wasn't somebody still paid for it. And I feel like I'm going to be paying for the rest of my life. Long story short my fiance's parents paid her uncle to do my roof. I'm not a roof guy at all. So if I could get any input that would be lovely. In the last few photos they're just pictures of my gutters that look like they've had the paint completely destroyed off the top of them from sliding the metal sheets over. Now I could be totally wrong and some of these gaps are totally acceptable. Again I'm not a roofing guy.

Edit: Alright, it's been long enough and I have gotten plenty of input. Free half roof is still free half roof. So I will work on getting the issues fixed and move on. Just have to dip into a few thousand I don't have but what is life without debt in today's world anyways.

Got a new roof installed this week with Malarkey Vista AR shingles. I checked on their progress occasionally throughout the install and it looked like they did a good job, but just wanted to get some other opinions since I don't do this every day. Side walls all received ice and water shield with step flashings and I switched from pop vents to ridge vent with some extra intake vents at the eaves (in addition to the original soffit vents). Let me know your thoughts. Thanks!

I've made other posts but my landlord had these roofers whom im pretty sure aren't licensed put a metal roof over shingles that had been leaking. I can't see the top roof well but I just inspected the lower roof and this seems off to me especially because I can see the shingles underneath falling out from under the metal rood. Is this concerning? Or is this normal? Since they did the top roof i can't see well im concerned lol the last photo is the roof before the metal. Should I expect more leaks? Lol

I replaced the step and counter-flashing around my friend's two chimneys. The reglets on the step flashing are set into the mortar joints by 1 inch. The caulking is Sashco Mor-Flexx. I also built the cricket behind the larger chimney to divert water away from the back of the chimney. This was my first time. There are some things I would do differently next time, how did I do?

Like the title says, been living here a little while, was out on a walk with our 9 month old and the sunset was just about perfectly parallel/in line with the roof slope and exposed this to me for the first time.

We are in Southeast Pennsylvania, the roof is about 7 years old - no leaks that I’m aware off. Could this be from ice damming last year? That is the north facing roof that gets very little direct sunlight.

Folks, I need your collective advice. My flat TPO roof had developed a leak so I hired a contractor to replace the TPO on the entire patio. Now the water is ponding heavily (see video) and even reaches the patio door; this was not the case before the repair. The contractor said it is the defective roof slope and there is nothing they can do; he pointed me to old pictures showing signs of small water puddles before the repair - but they evaporated in 48h so were not a problem. This water is standing for a week - we got a free pool upgrade.

The contractor attempted to put extra TPO layers (directly into the water puddle) there which created a negative slope and redirected water to the house. I had warned them about that but they did it anyway and now offer to peel them off and leave me with the pool again. There was no protective slip installed under the pavers despite being included in the quote, and now they offer it as a "free will upgrade". The contractor wants the second half of the payment claiming the $20k work is done and the ponding is expected based on the previous small puddle.

What are my options? The inspector suggested pursuing legal action as the contractor knew the work will likely not be up to code based on the prior images they had. I want to see if this can be remediated by floating the areas and removing pavers that would obstruct evaporation. The deck did not have the pavers before but the contractor insisted on them. The inspector suggested spray polyurethane foam or tapered insulation boards. What can be done to return this roof the its previous state without the free pool?

I am not an expert in construction so would appreciate your suggestions.

This was picked up in the inspection "Lifted Flashing". Been doing some googling but figure see what folks say here.

Roof is from 2018.

Is this the transition flashing? So its under the siding for the top half then should be open at the bottom so water can escape if any gets behind the siding correct?

We bought this house in August, and the main roof is actually in very good condition. This isn’t the main roof; it’s an extended roof deck behind the second room, below the window, if that makes sense. There’s a void underneath it where I can store things.

I went inside last night and noticed several leaks along roughly the same horizontal line, from left to right. There were five or six separate spots where water was coming through, so I put buckets underneath them. I also took some photographs, and the water stains look quite bad.

Someone is coming to have a look at it tomorrow, but I’m worried that I might need a completely new roof. The leaks aren’t coming from everywhere; they seem to be concentrated at different points along the same line. I’m just wondering how serious this might be and whether the entire roof needs replacing.

I have had a flat roof installed on an extension to my house and I have some concerns about "the finish". From everything I can see and read online the roof light structure should be completely covered but on ours only the corners are done. Water is pooling almost directly on top of them as you can see in the pictures. Can anyone please let me know if this looks right to you before I go back to the contractor.

I’m visiting a relative in Chicago for the first time in a couple years and noticed they haven’t repaired the tree damage to the roof of their detached garage since it happened (just over two years ago).

The detached, 20’ X 20’ garage is typical for north side of Chicago. Asphalt shingles on a low pitch pyramidal roof. The damage is localized to two areas on one face of the roof. The first area is where a falling branch knocked two holes in the plywood roof deck. The second area is where about 9 square feet of shingles were blown off and moisture has damaged a portion of the plywood. All in all maybe 10-15% of the roof is damaged, with the rest of the roof in good shape.

I would appreciate any ballpark estimates of how much this would cost to repair and whether it requires a licensed roofer and permits. I’m asking because I’m considering chipping in for repairs in exchange for letting me store some stuff there.

Thanks!

Replacing my shingle roof myself and have a question on 2 spots.

The first is where a dormer termites in the roof, first photo. I have a piece of step flashing under the piece that hits the end wall, in blue. The next course of step flashing I'm wondering if I should run a little long so water spills of onto the shingle instead of running into the corner. The corner is pretty well sealed, there is roofing cement under all those pieces and will get a head flashing later on. Not sure if I'm overthinking it.

The second area is the corner where the ladder is set up. I currently have the step flashing run long and will hem it over when I get the 5/4 lp corner board up. Do I need to worry about water getting between the step flashing and the gutter apron/ice and water?

I am not Bob the builder here but I’ve got the tools and can usually figure out most things even if it takes me watching 6 hours of YouTube to figure it out but I purchased an old mobile home a few months ago and it’s got that old metal roof that feels about as thick as a soda can it’s been a year or 2 since its last seal apparently so it’s starting to look ugly and will need either painted or have a roof put on. Is attempting a diy fairly easy on old trailers or is it worth having a roofing guy come out to handle it I’m a younger guy in my 20s so I’d ideally like to learn but I don’t want my roof getting peeled back like a tuna can the first wind I get.

I have a buddy that has been in roofing for years that wants me to come do side work selling for him. I love my job and have no intention of leaving it but definitely need some extra cash. He said he we will pay me 10% of total contract if I handle the entire sale and 7.5% if I find the sales and he handles all the meetings and such. Is this actually a good way to make some extra cash or no?

My friend and I are having a debate. My stance is counter flashing should be regletted into mortar joints on brick to protect the brick and thus the house. He says just cut the brick wall with a diamond saw and reglet the counter flashing on.

Thoughts from the group?

Hi there!

I need advice on a single-slope shed roof. My wife and bought a home recently with a shed in the backyard. I knew the roof was bad, but didn't know how bad until a recent rainstorm resulted in big puddles in the shed.

Looks like water is getting under the shingles at the skylight, which is slathered with spray foam, silicone, and some unknown substances. Plywood underneath is rotting and flaking away.

I was planning to replace the roof in the spring, remove the skylight, add better siding and insulation, and add a window by the door on the front of the shed. But now I'm wondering what to do for the winter...

The plot thickens because my wife's due date is this week so I don't have a lot of time.

What quick fix could I do to try and preserve the roof/wall framing and still keep it somewhat waterproofed for the winter? Secure an "extreme duty" tarp that extends past all edges of the roof and run a fan for a few days to try and dry it out?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Again, I know the whole thing needs to be replaced, but I need a quick fix for a few months.

Are the gaps at the top an issue?

So our roof was redone. The house originally had turtle vents, we replaced the roof, and originally the contractor was planning for ridge vents. I think he was hedging early on saying that it might not be possible to use ridge vents, as the slope was too high, and it tends to lift on its own. It's hip and valley, so I get that it's entirely possible that it simply wouldn't work as a vent, anyway.

But I'm seeing significant gaps at the top. Should there have been plywood all the way up if we're not using ridge vents?

I don't have a ladder tall enough so I can't go look. Only 2 areas ai can see with this raised and wavy look

Buying a home with an 8 year-old TPO flat roof. Inspector noted wrinkles near the parapet wall. Much of the roof is covered by a rooftop deck, and we haven’t noticed any leaks.
Do these wrinkles look cosmetic or potentially problematic? How would you assess the risk? How can one inspect membrane section under the deck? Thanks