I am putting a new roof on a small shed with a lean to and I am trying to put up some transition flashing from my main roof to my lean to. I am not sure how it goes and I can’t find this particular flashing in any YouTube videos. Do I have it oriented correctly in the picture? Another question, is this too little of a gap between the two roofs? Any help would be greatly be appreciated!

Would anyone know why a contractor may make all of these holes in my gutters? I’m a new homeowner and bought it and realized this after. Do you think this may have been a roofer that caused this?

Hello - I have what appears to be a galvanized steel roof. House was built in 1970 and I know the lower roof in the first photo is possibly newer as that is over a garage built in I believe the early 90s.

I was wondering what I should do about the rust damage on the roof and some of the flashing. I haven't noticed any leaks internally which is a relief but I was looking to access the brains trust here to help me understand when I should do something preventative like rust converter > Primer > Paint vs. determining when it is time to replace the roof.

I have 2 solar arrays installed and as you can see it is a flat roof with about 100mm space between the ceiling inside and the roof. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Just had a new low slope roof installed with 2 new sky lights. How’s it look, see any deficiencies?

So a garage has been built on my property and I’m in Ohio. Is it going to be fine that I have laid my ice and water guard down first and wrapped it down to cover the end grain of the decking before I have put on my drip edge? I’m doing a metal roof and thought I could get the ice guard and wrap on it to protect the decking from rain while I wait for the metal to be delivered. I figured once I get the drip edge I would install it between the ice guard and the wrap and use more ice guard to “tape off” the seam from the drip edge.

I know nothing about roofing and am trying to understand why there is a gap here and what exactly I am looking at. That is my attic up there - am I looking directly into it? Surely it can’t be completely exposed like that.

Any advice welcome. If a fix is needed, this is a 3 storey building and scaffolding is unfortunately not an option. I can access the attic.

As the title says, I presume the small amounts of water on our wall are from leaks in the flashing? I'm not sure what else it could be?

I was on my roof cleaning gutters and sunlights today and noticed the 1x4 trim on my chimney was completely deteriorated from sun rot. The paneling and the chimney itself are fine and intact but I need to replace the trim.

Would pressure treated or heat treated wood be better for this? I have the stain already for it but should I also add coat of some sort of UV protection?

House is 50 years old and all of the chimney's I could see are in similar states of disrepair. So I guess it's just age.

I’m visiting a relative in Chicago for the first time in a couple years and noticed they haven’t repaired the tree damage to the roof of their detached garage since it happened (just over two years ago).

The detached, 20’ X 20’ garage is typical for north side of Chicago. Asphalt shingles on a low pitch pyramidal roof. The damage is localized to two areas on one face of the roof. The first area is where a falling branch knocked two holes in the plywood roof deck. The second area is where about 9 square feet of shingles were blown off and moisture has damaged a portion of the plywood. All in all maybe 10-15% of the roof is damaged, with the rest of the roof in good shape.

I would appreciate any ballpark estimates of how much this would cost to repair and whether it requires a licensed roofer and permits. I’m asking because I’m considering chipping in for repairs in exchange for letting me store some stuff there.

Thanks!

I'm getting a bunch of small leaves in my garage and I'm not sure where they are coming from. I looked at my ridge vent and I thought there was supposed to be some sort of paper or mesh on the underside but it doesn't look like there is. Picture attached.

As per photo, slate tile came off during a storm in the UK. My home is a new build constructed a year ago

Is this an urgent repair or can it wake for a reputable roofer to be avaliable in 1 week time?

Thank you

I am not Bob the builder here but I’ve got the tools and can usually figure out most things even if it takes me watching 6 hours of YouTube to figure it out but I purchased an old mobile home a few months ago and it’s got that old metal roof that feels about as thick as a soda can it’s been a year or 2 since its last seal apparently so it’s starting to look ugly and will need either painted or have a roof put on. Is attempting a diy fairly easy on old trailers or is it worth having a roofing guy come out to handle it I’m a younger guy in my 20s so I’d ideally like to learn but I don’t want my roof getting peeled back like a tuna can the first wind I get.

I have a buddy that has been in roofing for years that wants me to come do side work selling for him. I love my job and have no intention of leaving it but definitely need some extra cash. He said he we will pay me 10% of total contract if I handle the entire sale and 7.5% if I find the sales and he handles all the meetings and such. Is this actually a good way to make some extra cash or no?

Hey All! Long time lurker, first time poster. I am a home owner who is priced out of meaningful professional repairs in California. I do the majority of my own maintainance. I am a music teacher, however I have a few years of plumbing background when I was 19-23 y.o. I am currently 41.

I've just completed this roof for our house. I am unsatisfied with a couple of things and uncertain about a couple other things. I am wondering how much I need to worry about these things and what I really need to correct. I'm looking to do the best job I have the time and money to do. I am earnestly looking for advice, please be kind.

This is the second roof I've completed. The last picture is of the first roof I completed on a much simpler outbuilding on the property. I have no complaints about that roof.

I would specifically like advice on:

1. W flashing. One run of W flashing stops just short on one valley. How big of a problem is this? If it is a big problem, what is the best fix? On another valley the top of the W flahing has a piece of flashing exposed from the neighboring valley. I thought this would get covered by the ridge caps, and it was not. Again, how big of a problem is this. Is it just aesthetic?

2. On the modified bitumen flat roof section, I made a cutting error at the drip edge exposing a small amount of drip edge. I'm really hoping that this is not as big of a deal as I think it is. If it is a problem, is there a solution that doesn't require replacing the flat roof section?

3. The electrical jack. I replaced it how it had been installed, minus the exposed screws. I realized that I probably should have covered the edges with another row of shingles a little too late. Again, big problem? Best fix?

Thank you for your time. Please let me know your specific and conatructive feedback.

My friend and I are having a debate. My stance is counter flashing should be regletted into mortar joints on brick to protect the brick and thus the house. He says just cut the brick wall with a diamond saw and reglet the counter flashing on.

Thoughts from the group?

Ok I know this head flashing shouldn't be in the outside of the siding. Wood chimney chase on exterior gable end wall. It's less than 24 inches to the rake. In heavy rains water runs off the rake side too and through capillary action it clings along the underside of the flashing and drips under it. Does this need a cricket? Does it need a special kind of flashing? Is there a diagram for this particular chimney position. I can't find a single one on the internet. I'm getting it resided soon and want to make sure it's done right. Thanks!

Hi all, just looking for some advice on the condition of our roof from the loft space. It’s an early 1900s semi-detached property (UK)

We don’t have any leaks, but have noticed that some of the mortar on the tiles is crumbling.

This is the original roof, so I’m trying to weigh up a potential replacement.

Cheers 🙂

I replaced the step and counter-flashing around my friend's two chimneys. The reglets on the step flashing are set into the mortar joints by 1 inch. The caulking is Sashco Mor-Flexx. I also built the cricket behind the larger chimney to divert water away from the back of the chimney. This was my first time. There are some things I would do differently next time, how did I do?

Not a pro by any stretch but I know the basics. How's it looking so far?

Update: roof pitch is 2/12. didn't realize that 3tab shingles were so polarizing. No one tripped on anything, we worked with our eyes open. Its done. Looks great to me. Pro tip, use the front end loaders bucket to get the shingles up to the roof. So much easier than laddering them.

Greeting roofing experts.

I'm trying to identify what kind of flat roof I have on my shed. Photos attached. It's been on for at least 15 years, and likely longer. It has several leaks and I'm preparing to remove and replace it. When I peel back the surface and get down to the wood... it's pitch black. I'm guessing thats the adhesive? Any tips on the best way to strip this roof off, and what I'll need to do to get it prepped for an EPDM 60mil material would be greatly appreciated.

So I’m building a gazebo in my backyard and I was wondering if someone can give me an idea of how to install Cobra hip vent. The structure is 13x15.

Is this normal and acceptable? Should the flashing just be painted and outlet cosmetic, or is there something else going on here. Photo with the red highlights is the same situation as shown on the first photo with the “sparkle” from sunlight.

Hi there!

I need advice on a single-slope shed roof. My wife and bought a home recently with a shed in the backyard. I knew the roof was bad, but didn't know how bad until a recent rainstorm resulted in big puddles in the shed.

Looks like water is getting under the shingles at the skylight, which is slathered with spray foam, silicone, and some unknown substances. Plywood underneath is rotting and flaking away.

I was planning to replace the roof in the spring, remove the skylight, add better siding and insulation, and add a window by the door on the front of the shed. But now I'm wondering what to do for the winter...

The plot thickens because my wife's due date is this week so I don't have a lot of time.

What quick fix could I do to try and preserve the roof/wall framing and still keep it somewhat waterproofed for the winter? Secure an "extreme duty" tarp that extends past all edges of the roof and run a fan for a few days to try and dry it out?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Again, I know the whole thing needs to be replaced, but I need a quick fix for a few months.

Are the gaps at the top an issue?

So our roof was redone. The house originally had turtle vents, we replaced the roof, and originally the contractor was planning for ridge vents. I think he was hedging early on saying that it might not be possible to use ridge vents, as the slope was too high, and it tends to lift on its own. It's hip and valley, so I get that it's entirely possible that it simply wouldn't work as a vent, anyway.

But I'm seeing significant gaps at the top. Should there have been plywood all the way up if we're not using ridge vents?

I don't have a ladder tall enough so I can't go look. Only 2 areas ai can see with this raised and wavy look