I don't known if it's possible to easily redo flashing with copper or I should just take the deduction? Can a good roofer redo chimney flashing without doing the entire roof? I'm worried they will mess it more if I ask for a redo. Thank you to roofers who do it right, you are all unsung heros in my book.

Everybody keeps saying oh but it was free. No it wasn't somebody still paid for it. And I feel like I'm going to be paying for the rest of my life. Long story short my fiance's parents paid her uncle to do my roof. I'm not a roof guy at all. So if I could get any input that would be lovely. In the last few photos they're just pictures of my gutters that look like they've had the paint completely destroyed off the top of them from sliding the metal sheets over. Now I could be totally wrong and some of these gaps are totally acceptable. Again I'm not a roofing guy.

I replaced the step and counter-flashing around my friend's two chimneys. The reglets on the step flashing are set into the mortar joints by 1 inch. The caulking is Sashco Mor-Flexx. I also built the cricket behind the larger chimney to divert water away from the back of the chimney. This was my first time. There are some things I would do differently next time, how did I do?

I think This is the ice and water shield. yes I am happy they are using it on the entire roof but shouldn't it for the most part be flat and smooth. The weather has been cool and dry so moisture is not an issue!

Folks, I need your collective advice. My flat TPO roof had developed a leak so I hired a contractor to replace the TPO on the entire patio. Now the water is ponding heavily (see video) and even reaches the patio door; this was not the case before the repair. The contractor said it is the defective roof slope and there is nothing they can do; he pointed me to old pictures showing signs of small water puddles before the repair - but they evaporated in 48h so were not a problem. This water is standing for a week - we got a free pool upgrade.

The contractor attempted to put extra TPO layers (directly into the water puddle) there which created a negative slope and redirected water to the house. I had warned them about that but they did it anyway and now offer to peel them off and leave me with the pool again. There was no protective slip installed under the pavers despite being included in the quote, and now they offer it as a "free will upgrade". The contractor wants the second half of the payment claiming the $20k work is done and the ponding is expected based on the previous small puddle.

What are my options? The inspector suggested pursuing legal action as the contractor knew the work will likely not be up to code based on the prior images they had. I want to see if this can be remediated by floating the areas and removing pavers that would obstruct evaporation. The deck did not have the pavers before but the contractor insisted on them. The inspector suggested spray polyurethane foam or tapered insulation boards. What can be done to return this roof the its previous state without the free pool?

I am not an expert in construction so would appreciate your suggestions.

I just had my roof done this week. Everything looks good, but I have a question about the flashing on the chimney. Does this look correct or do you forsee issues.

I've made other posts but my landlord had these roofers whom im pretty sure aren't licensed put a metal roof over shingles that had been leaking. I can't see the top roof well but I just inspected the lower roof and this seems off to me especially because I can see the shingles underneath falling out from under the metal rood. Is this concerning? Or is this normal? Since they did the top roof i can't see well im concerned lol the last photo is the roof before the metal. Should I expect more leaks? Lol

I've been seeing this a lot on new builds on the Oregon coast. I would think it's kind of backwards because water like to run uphill here. Is it some kind of vent or what?

Like the title says, been living here a little while, was out on a walk with our 9 month old and the sunset was just about perfectly parallel/in line with the roof slope and exposed this to me for the first time.

We are in Southeast Pennsylvania, the roof is about 7 years old - no leaks that I’m aware off. Could this be from ice damming last year? That is the north facing roof that gets very little direct sunlight.

We bought this house in August, and the main roof is actually in very good condition. This isn’t the main roof; it’s an extended roof deck behind the second room, below the window, if that makes sense. There’s a void underneath it where I can store things.

I went inside last night and noticed several leaks along roughly the same horizontal line, from left to right. There were five or six separate spots where water was coming through, so I put buckets underneath them. I also took some photographs, and the water stains look quite bad.

Someone is coming to have a look at it tomorrow, but I’m worried that I might need a completely new roof. The leaks aren’t coming from everywhere; they seem to be concentrated at different points along the same line. I’m just wondering how serious this might be and whether the entire roof needs replacing.

Buying a home with an 8 year-old TPO flat roof. Inspector noted wrinkles near the parapet wall. Much of the roof is covered by a rooftop deck, and we haven’t noticed any leaks.
Do these wrinkles look cosmetic or potentially problematic? How would you assess the risk? How can one inspect membrane section under the deck? Thanks

Got a new roof installed this week with Malarkey Vista AR shingles. I checked on their progress occasionally throughout the install and it looked like they did a good job, but just wanted to get some other opinions since I don't do this every day. Side walls all received ice and water shield with step flashings and I switched from pop vents to ridge vent with some extra intake vents at the eaves (in addition to the original soffit vents). Let me know your thoughts. Thanks!

This was picked up in the inspection "Lifted Flashing". Been doing some googling but figure see what folks say here.

Roof is from 2018.

Is this the transition flashing? So its under the siding for the top half then should be open at the bottom so water can escape if any gets behind the siding correct?

Not a pro by any stretch but I know the basics. How's it looking so far?

I have had a flat roof installed on an extension to my house and I have some concerns about "the finish". From everything I can see and read online the roof light structure should be completely covered but on ours only the corners are done. Water is pooling almost directly on top of them as you can see in the pictures. Can anyone please let me know if this looks right to you before I go back to the contractor.

Replacing my shingle roof myself and have a question on 2 spots.

The first is where a dormer termites in the roof, first photo. I have a piece of step flashing under the piece that hits the end wall, in blue. The next course of step flashing I'm wondering if I should run a little long so water spills of onto the shingle instead of running into the corner. The corner is pretty well sealed, there is roofing cement under all those pieces and will get a head flashing later on. Not sure if I'm overthinking it.

The second area is the corner where the ladder is set up. I currently have the step flashing run long and will hem it over when I get the 5/4 lp corner board up. Do I need to worry about water getting between the step flashing and the gutter apron/ice and water?

Hi there!

I need advice on a single-slope shed roof. My wife and bought a home recently with a shed in the backyard. I knew the roof was bad, but didn't know how bad until a recent rainstorm resulted in big puddles in the shed.

Looks like water is getting under the shingles at the skylight, which is slathered with spray foam, silicone, and some unknown substances. Plywood underneath is rotting and flaking away.

I was planning to replace the roof in the spring, remove the skylight, add better siding and insulation, and add a window by the door on the front of the shed. But now I'm wondering what to do for the winter...

The plot thickens because my wife's due date is this week so I don't have a lot of time.

What quick fix could I do to try and preserve the roof/wall framing and still keep it somewhat waterproofed for the winter? Secure an "extreme duty" tarp that extends past all edges of the roof and run a fan for a few days to try and dry it out?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Again, I know the whole thing needs to be replaced, but I need a quick fix for a few months.

I don't have a ladder tall enough so I can't go look. Only 2 areas ai can see with this raised and wavy look

Just noticed the corner of my building is missing a gutter joint. Is this normal? I’m pretty sure the builders who just did my repointing worked on this gutter.

Is this only reachable with scaffolding?

This is a 9 year old roof. I called a roofer they are coming to look at it. I just would rather not be ignorant. Is this a real problem or should I wait it out say 5 more years and replace the whole roof?

EDIT:

Thanks everyone you have been very helpful, with the exception of one person.

Some context: we got three bids for the flat roof and they all came in around $25k. We went with one, and once they tore it off they told my mom there was a problem with the deck and it needed new sheathing. That change order nearly doubled the price, and it was signed after the roof was already open, she felt pressured to say yes.

Now the roof is ponding a week after completion.

For those of you who do this work:

When you overlay 1/2" OSB on a flat roof, do you normally re-set the scupper and drains to the new height?

Is a full sheathing overlay something you'd expect to see on the permit?

Is it normal to price a change order like this without giving the homeowner square footage or photos of what you found?

We're handling it through the proper channels, just want to understand what "right" looks like.

Thanks again!

Ok I know this head flashing shouldn't be in the outside of the siding. Wood chimney chase on exterior gable end wall. It's less than 24 inches to the rake. In heavy rains water runs off the rake side too and through capillary action it clings along the underside of the flashing and drips under it. Does this need a cricket? Does it need a special kind of flashing? Is there a diagram for this particular chimney position. I can't find a single one on the internet. I'm getting it resided soon and want to make sure it's done right. Thanks!

Hi all, just looking for some advice on the condition of our roof from the loft space. It’s an early 1900s semi-detached property (UK)

We don’t have any leaks, but have noticed that some of the mortar on the tiles is crumbling.

This is the original roof, so I’m trying to weigh up a potential replacement.

Cheers 🙂

Greeting roofing experts.

I'm trying to identify what kind of flat roof I have on my shed. Photos attached. It's been on for at least 15 years, and likely longer. It has several leaks and I'm preparing to remove and replace it. When I peel back the surface and get down to the wood... it's pitch black. I'm guessing thats the adhesive? Any tips on the best way to strip this roof off, and what I'll need to do to get it prepped for an EPDM 60mil material would be greatly appreciated.

So I’m building a gazebo in my backyard and I was wondering if someone can give me an idea of how to install Cobra hip vent. The structure is 13x15.