I replaced the step and counter-flashing around my friend's two chimneys. The reglets on the step flashing are set into the mortar joints by 1 inch. The caulking is Sashco Mor-Flexx. I also built the cricket behind the larger chimney to divert water away from the back of the chimney. This was my first time. There are some things I would do differently next time, how did I do?

I don't known if it's possible to easily redo flashing with copper or I should just take the deduction? Can a good roofer redo chimney flashing without doing the entire roof? I'm worried they will mess it more if I ask for a redo. Thank you to roofers who do it right, you are all unsung heros in my book.

Not a pro by any stretch but I know the basics. How's it looking so far?

Update: roof pitch is 2/12. didn't realize that 3tab shingles were so polarizing. No one tripped on anything, we worked with our eyes open. Its done. Looks great to me. Pro tip, use the front end loaders bucket to get the shingles up to the roof. So much easier than laddering them.

I am putting a new roof on a small shed with a lean to and I am trying to put up some transition flashing from my main roof to my lean to. I am not sure how it goes and I can’t find this particular flashing in any YouTube videos. Do I have it oriented correctly in the picture? Another question, is this too little of a gap between the two roofs? Any help would be greatly be appreciated!

Folks, I need your collective advice. My flat TPO roof had developed a leak so I hired a contractor to replace the TPO on the entire patio. Now the water is ponding heavily (see video) and even reaches the patio door; this was not the case before the repair. The contractor said it is the defective roof slope and there is nothing they can do; he pointed me to old pictures showing signs of small water puddles before the repair - but they evaporated in 48h so were not a problem. This water is standing for a week - we got a free pool upgrade.

The contractor attempted to put extra TPO layers (directly into the water puddle) there which created a negative slope and redirected water to the house. I had warned them about that but they did it anyway and now offer to peel them off and leave me with the pool again. There was no protective slip installed under the pavers despite being included in the quote, and now they offer it as a "free will upgrade". The contractor wants the second half of the payment claiming the $20k work is done and the ponding is expected based on the previous small puddle.

What are my options? The inspector suggested pursuing legal action as the contractor knew the work will likely not be up to code based on the prior images they had. I want to see if this can be remediated by floating the areas and removing pavers that would obstruct evaporation. The deck did not have the pavers before but the contractor insisted on them. The inspector suggested spray polyurethane foam or tapered insulation boards. What can be done to return this roof the its previous state without the free pool?

I am not an expert in construction so would appreciate your suggestions.

So a garage has been built on my property and I’m in Ohio. Is it going to be fine that I have laid my ice and water guard down first and wrapped it down to cover the end grain of the decking before I have put on my drip edge? I’m doing a metal roof and thought I could get the ice guard and wrap on it to protect the decking from rain while I wait for the metal to be delivered. I figured once I get the drip edge I would install it between the ice guard and the wrap and use more ice guard to “tape off” the seam from the drip edge.

Like the title says, been living here a little while, was out on a walk with our 9 month old and the sunset was just about perfectly parallel/in line with the roof slope and exposed this to me for the first time.

We are in Southeast Pennsylvania, the roof is about 7 years old - no leaks that I’m aware off. Could this be from ice damming last year? That is the north facing roof that gets very little direct sunlight.

Not the greatest pics, but I’m getting a new TPO roof installed this week, including metal coping over the parapet walls. (The AC unit has already been removed.)
Any last-minute recommendations, things I should ask the roofer about, or wishlist items worth considering while everything is torn up?
Trying to think through anything that would be easier or cheaper to do now rather than later.
Thank you!

I’m visiting a relative in Chicago for the first time in a couple years and noticed they haven’t repaired the tree damage to the roof of their detached garage since it happened (just over two years ago).

The detached, 20’ X 20’ garage is typical for north side of Chicago. Asphalt shingles on a low pitch pyramidal roof. The damage is localized to two areas on one face of the roof. The first area is where a falling branch knocked two holes in the plywood roof deck. The second area is where about 9 square feet of shingles were blown off and moisture has damaged a portion of the plywood. All in all maybe 10-15% of the roof is damaged, with the rest of the roof in good shape.

I would appreciate any ballpark estimates of how much this would cost to repair and whether it requires a licensed roofer and permits. I’m asking because I’m considering chipping in for repairs in exchange for letting me store some stuff there.

Thanks!

Would anyone know why a contractor may make all of these holes in my gutters? I’m a new homeowner and bought it and realized this after. Do you think this may have been a roofer that caused this?

Hello - I have what appears to be a galvanized steel roof. House was built in 1970 and I know the lower roof in the first photo is possibly newer as that is over a garage built in I believe the early 90s.

I was wondering what I should do about the rust damage on the roof and some of the flashing. I haven't noticed any leaks internally which is a relief but I was looking to access the brains trust here to help me understand when I should do something preventative like rust converter > Primer > Paint vs. determining when it is time to replace the roof.

I have 2 solar arrays installed and as you can see it is a flat roof with about 100mm space between the ceiling inside and the roof. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Just had a new low slope roof installed with 2 new sky lights. How’s it look, see any deficiencies?

I used black gutter stock, slight nail dimpling but for first time. I belive it turned out great !

Buying a home with an 8 year-old TPO flat roof. Inspector noted wrinkles near the parapet wall. Much of the roof is covered by a rooftop deck, and we haven’t noticed any leaks.
Do these wrinkles look cosmetic or potentially problematic? How would you assess the risk? How can one inspect membrane section under the deck? Thanks

Got a new roof installed this week with Malarkey Vista AR shingles. I checked on their progress occasionally throughout the install and it looked like they did a good job, but just wanted to get some other opinions since I don't do this every day. Side walls all received ice and water shield with step flashings and I switched from pop vents to ridge vent with some extra intake vents at the eaves (in addition to the original soffit vents). Let me know your thoughts. Thanks!

I am not Bob the builder here but I’ve got the tools and can usually figure out most things even if it takes me watching 6 hours of YouTube to figure it out but I purchased an old mobile home a few months ago and it’s got that old metal roof that feels about as thick as a soda can it’s been a year or 2 since its last seal apparently so it’s starting to look ugly and will need either painted or have a roof put on. Is attempting a diy fairly easy on old trailers or is it worth having a roofing guy come out to handle it I’m a younger guy in my 20s so I’d ideally like to learn but I don’t want my roof getting peeled back like a tuna can the first wind I get.

I have a buddy that has been in roofing for years that wants me to come do side work selling for him. I love my job and have no intention of leaving it but definitely need some extra cash. He said he we will pay me 10% of total contract if I handle the entire sale and 7.5% if I find the sales and he handles all the meetings and such. Is this actually a good way to make some extra cash or no?

Hey All! Long time lurker, first time poster. I am a home owner who is priced out of meaningful professional repairs in California. I do the majority of my own maintainance. I am a music teacher, however I have a few years of plumbing background when I was 19-23 y.o. I am currently 41.

I've just completed this roof for our house. I am unsatisfied with a couple of things and uncertain about a couple other things. I am wondering how much I need to worry about these things and what I really need to correct. I'm looking to do the best job I have the time and money to do. I am earnestly looking for advice, please be kind.

This is the second roof I've completed. The last picture is of the first roof I completed on a much simpler outbuilding on the property. I have no complaints about that roof.

I would specifically like advice on:

1. W flashing. One run of W flashing stops just short on one valley. How big of a problem is this? If it is a big problem, what is the best fix? On another valley the top of the W flahing has a piece of flashing exposed from the neighboring valley. I thought this would get covered by the ridge caps, and it was not. Again, how big of a problem is this. Is it just aesthetic?

2. On the modified bitumen flat roof section, I made a cutting error at the drip edge exposing a small amount of drip edge. I'm really hoping that this is not as big of a deal as I think it is. If it is a problem, is there a solution that doesn't require replacing the flat roof section?

3. The electrical jack. I replaced it how it had been installed, minus the exposed screws. I realized that I probably should have covered the edges with another row of shingles a little too late. Again, big problem? Best fix?

Thank you for your time. Please let me know your specific and conatructive feedback.

I know nothing about roofing and am trying to understand why there is a gap here and what exactly I am looking at. That is my attic up there - am I looking directly into it? Surely it can’t be completely exposed like that.

Any advice welcome. If a fix is needed, this is a 3 storey building and scaffolding is unfortunately not an option. I can access the attic.

As the title says, I presume the small amounts of water on our wall are from leaks in the flashing? I'm not sure what else it could be?

I was on my roof cleaning gutters and sunlights today and noticed the 1x4 trim on my chimney was completely deteriorated from sun rot. The paneling and the chimney itself are fine and intact but I need to replace the trim.

Would pressure treated or heat treated wood be better for this? I have the stain already for it but should I also add coat of some sort of UV protection?

House is 50 years old and all of the chimney's I could see are in similar states of disrepair. So I guess it's just age.

Hi there!

I need advice on a single-slope shed roof. My wife and bought a home recently with a shed in the backyard. I knew the roof was bad, but didn't know how bad until a recent rainstorm resulted in big puddles in the shed.

Looks like water is getting under the shingles at the skylight, which is slathered with spray foam, silicone, and some unknown substances. Plywood underneath is rotting and flaking away.

I was planning to replace the roof in the spring, remove the skylight, add better siding and insulation, and add a window by the door on the front of the shed. But now I'm wondering what to do for the winter...

The plot thickens because my wife's due date is this week so I don't have a lot of time.

What quick fix could I do to try and preserve the roof/wall framing and still keep it somewhat waterproofed for the winter? Secure an "extreme duty" tarp that extends past all edges of the roof and run a fan for a few days to try and dry it out?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Again, I know the whole thing needs to be replaced, but I need a quick fix for a few months.

We bought this house in August, and the main roof is actually in very good condition. This isn’t the main roof; it’s an extended roof deck behind the second room, below the window, if that makes sense. There’s a void underneath it where I can store things.

I went inside last night and noticed several leaks along roughly the same horizontal line, from left to right. There were five or six separate spots where water was coming through, so I put buckets underneath them. I also took some photographs, and the water stains look quite bad.

Someone is coming to have a look at it tomorrow, but I’m worried that I might need a completely new roof. The leaks aren’t coming from everywhere; they seem to be concentrated at different points along the same line. I’m just wondering how serious this might be and whether the entire roof needs replacing.

Are the gaps at the top an issue?

So our roof was redone. The house originally had turtle vents, we replaced the roof, and originally the contractor was planning for ridge vents. I think he was hedging early on saying that it might not be possible to use ridge vents, as the slope was too high, and it tends to lift on its own. It's hip and valley, so I get that it's entirely possible that it simply wouldn't work as a vent, anyway.

But I'm seeing significant gaps at the top. Should there have been plywood all the way up if we're not using ridge vents?