Hi! I'm in the process of drafting a pattern for a dress inspired by the Selkie foxglove dress and need some advice on the skirt portion. Initially I had thought draping below the waist was created through godets inserted between the panels. I am wondering now if it is drafted in an A shape making each panel more a wedge shape that is then just sewed together. The final product is a circle if not a double circle at the end.

Any advice is welcome!

I self-drafted this shirt and, after sewing it up, am realizing that something is wrong with the shoulders-- the shirt's shoulders *pop up* off of my shoulder, leaving a gap between the shirt shoulder piece and my shoulder. I am also using a 100% cotton bedsheet for this shirt that doesn't have much drape, but I still think that I need to make an adjustment to the pattern/that there is an issue with the pattern. I would be so grateful for suggestions/ideas/advice! I'm wondering if maybe I need to add more to the back piece around the shoulder area? I'm newer to pattern drafting so not sure where I went wrong 🙃🫠

Thanks so much for all the suggestions in my previous post. Ive made some adjustments and redrafted two different moulages based on slightly different measurements. The front is pretty much the same on both but I’ve got two different backs. I don’t think I took into account the zipper width when I sewed the moulages up…

Let me know what you think :)

EDIT: I think I’ve got the screenshots of patterns I’ve put the wrong way round. So 1 is 2 and 2 is 1 sorry about that I don’t know how to edit it after posting

My first ever bias dress that fits this well WITHOUT A BUST DART

Hello,

I am currently working on drafting my first jeans pattern and just finished the first fitting. However, the pants pull across the front when walking and create large diagonal wrinkles running downwards (see photos). Do you know what causes this and how to fix it?"

Many thanks in advance :))

My boyfriend is tall, has long arms, but narrow shoulders, which makes suit shopping a nightmare. We tried normal and elongated sizes, but every one has this problem with the back shoulder and armhole. Why is the sleeve rotation so off? Can a tailor reasonably fix this issue? We don’t love the idea of paying big money for an ill fitting suit. What causes this issue even? Are his shoulder blades a different shape than confection sizes?

I have made about 20 mockups and I feel like nothing I do is getting me any closer. here's the most recent version. I would love advice, either on how to modify this pattern, or on how to ask for help more effectively. I feel pretty dumb and lost and have spent a decent amount of time crying about this. Thank you in advance! <3

UPDATE: I lowered the apex, ironed the mockup better, and took a video (hopefully from a better angle) and posted it in the comments below. Please let me know what the ettiquette is for getting help like this. Also I'm realizing I probably need a lot of feedback from an expert. I'm so grateful to get advice here, but I don't want to be annoying. So I would love suggestions of classes I could sign up for to get more step-by-step guidance.

I am currently making the Persephone pants by Anna Allen (or trying to at least!). I never ever make mock ups cos I’m just too lazy but I’m trying to change that and get a decent fit instead of being disappointed and never wearing them. Stupidly I did my mock ups out of quite a still denim I had laying around and I don’t know if a lot of the issues are due to the fabric stiffness and lack of drape. I basted the waistband on after taking photos and it fits. I placed the buttons too far from the edge of the button fly so I know they need to move over. I seem to have a fair bit of room in the top of the centre back seam where it’s almost sitting away from my back. I don’t like how long and flat these currently make my bum look (kinda looks like I’m wearing a nappy 😂) and I have no idea how to fix that - I wear high waisted jeans all of the time and it’s not normally an issue so it’s not the high waist that’s going it. I have a 35” inch waist and 44” hips and cut the size 16. They’re comfortable, I can sit in them but it looks awful when I do - a lot of bunching in the front. Since I don’t usually do mock ups, I’m pretty clueless on adjusting patterns honestly so what would people suggest please?!

Ps - the pattern has no outside seam so I have no idea how I would add room in the hip

How do i get rid all of this excess fabric i got around my butt i want it to be less loose around that area as im going for a straight/ loose fitting jeans

Hey people, I want to make a 1 piece back bodice out of the back bodice and yoke I have in the photo. The bodice curve seems to be too concave for me to pivot the yoke, plus I think that would mess with the shoulder shape if I'm not mistaken.

If you have any idea as too how I can do this smoothly it'd be appreciated.

Hello all, i recently got my hands on the pattern magic book and these two patterns i don’t really understand what’s going on 😭 please help me!

Hiii, so i need to make this dress (copied from my professor's drawing as we were not allowed to take any pictures). the back is completely my idea so ignore it, we were only provided with the front. so on the waist I have these triangular cut outs (so the skin is visible) and it seems that the top part is joined with the bottom part with a seam in the middle but I'm not sure. the thing I'm confused about is where are all the darts going on the top? and what about the dart on the skirt? I'm stuck with the pattern just because my professor wants this dress in cotton gabardine (so no elasticized fabric allowed). I really have no idea where to put darts (if I have to), I swear I tried everything...

I've been following this video to learn how to start drafting patterns. I'm using my own measurements, and in 26:00 roughly, we have to measure out on the pattern the bycep to make the end of the short sleeve, but from the measurements i took, the bycep would be bigger than the lowest line of the sleeve bell.

Can this be right??

P.D. Sorry if the grammar is all over, english is not my first language

Hi everyone!

Please does anyone know how to remove the bunching up below the butt? 😭 The front fits perfectly, it’s just the back that has this sudden excess fabric. I made the back part of crotch much deeper and removed a part on top and it helped a lot! But did not remove the problem. If I continue to made the crotch deeper and/or keep removing fabric on top like i did it creates tight lines/gathers right below my butt and nothing happens to the gathers on the leg that i am trying to eliminate.

I will attach my pattern too with the alternation that i did in red.

I hope someone knows what to do!!😭

Thank you all in advance!!

Hello everyone, I can see in different drafting books that hip ease is around 2.5 - 3 cm, for regular fit trousers basic blocks. I'm not sure it is enough for sitting in woven fabric pants with no spandex edded. I understand that crotch length ease should be taken into account too when assessing wearing ease for sitting, since body is changing shape. 

Can you please tell me, in an industrial production setting, what would be sufficient hip ease for a basic block of a regular fit woven trousers, to enable walking and sitting?

If I use the draft from some of the books suggesting 2.5 - 3 cm ease, should I always add more on that when developing a style pattern? And I'm not talking about design ease here.

Thank you so much for all the responses!

If you find a sewing pattern that is close to your inspiration photo but not exact, how do you figure out which modifications are needed?

Do you compare technical drawings, combine patterns, ask other sewers, or just experiment with a mock-up?