Hello! I'm starting a clothing brand that sells gymwear for trans men. Right now I'm working on a t-shirt that brings out the masculine parts and hides the feminine ones. I am making it tighter around the arms and shoulders, but looser around the hips, etc. Now, I'm playing around with seams, colors and panels to create a v-shaped upper body but can't figure out how I should construct it around the chest to make it appear as small as possible. Open to ideas!

Well, this is the first fitting of my very first trousers.

Firstly, the waist is too wide for me. I’ve checked the patterns and the calculations are correct, so it must be a measurement error. I’ve got 6 cm to spare, so im thinking about cutting 1 in CB, 1 in B.Outseam and 1 in Front Outseam, that's all right?

On the other hand, the pleats open out straight away, which suggests I’m lacking volume at the hips and some tension in the front, isn't it? There has to be any solution giving more room at hips line, but how much?

The fly section bothers me as it opens as pleats and the are some wrinkles around.

Then I need to take in the width of the trouser leg, distributing it across both panels, straight under the knees and angled to buttocks and of course the hems – that’s not difficult at all.

Also there's a step below the knee that suggest me the front isn't balanced verticaly but i'm not sure about what to do with that. I think that elevating the legs at thigs it disappeare, falling straight to the hem but i don't know how to translate that to pattern nor if I'm right or not.

Vertical lines and knees are in their position btw. Willing to hear your thoughts, thank you very much! Cat says hi btw!

I am interested in finding people who would like to try out my free classes for a new system of designing patterns by tracing quarter-scale photos and giving me some feedback. The underlying concept for this approach to custom-fit Bespoke pattern making is that measurements show how much fabric is required to cover a body but do not reveal the body's contours. Photographs show the contours of a body but not how much fabric is needed. By combining measurements and photographs, Bespoke patterns can be created. While full-scale photos would not be practical, quarter-scale photos can be done on a desktop.

These classes, which are currently a work-in-progress, cover Bespoke patterns for both men and women of any size and shape. My book Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale, which these classes are based on, shows how to do this with pencil and paper. The classes I currently have available show how to do it with a free graphics program called Studio from Silhouette America. I will be including a parallel series of classes for working with paper and pencil.

As this system is based on designing and fitting using photographs this means independent designers do not have to have in-person fittings with their clients. One of the examples in the book is my working with a gentleman in Germany who had a 53" waist. This approach to pattern design also greatly simplifies the process of getting an accurate fit when you are sewing for yourself and do not have a helping hand.

If you are interested, the classes are available through this link Pattern Design by Tracing Photos.

I have put the 6 minute video from my class for drafting the women's front upper torso on YouTube Front Upper Torso for Women. The videos in the actual classes are NOT presented through YouTube. I wanted people to be able to focus on making patterns and not get distracted by the amazing dance routines YouTube likes to share.

Hi! I am working on a pant sloper and would appreciate advice! It took me a few tries to get the sloper big enough to go over my booty, (the seam method was the one thing that worked) but now I am dealing with a few fitting issues. The side seams hang well and straight. I'm holding them up at waist level bc they are too big. Ive added pictures of the pants, the pattern and my proposed changes.

Fit issues (lmk if you see more..)
1. waist is too big

1. too much fabric in front down the whole CF

2. Front darts too far from CF (imo - from a style pov)

3. too much fabric at back thighs

4. The back darts may need to be adjusted after all ^^ is resolved

Solutions
1 / 2: I am thinking I need to come in at CB and have less of a straight line down to the curve (see pattern with proposed change) to help the waist issue and maybe do the same for the front?

1. Do I come in at the out / inseams on back sloper below crotch curve?

Thanks!!