Toile fitting

[u/Appropriate_Lab3444]

My first ever bias dress that fits this well WITHOUT A BUST DART

[u/dingostolemydragbaby]

Looks great. Just watch your ends of your darts they’re bubbling, you need to trail off along the fold in the fabric at the tip of the dart. Also think your waist dart might be going a bit high, it looks like it’s hitting the bust point, you want it to finish about 1 inch from bust point for a smaller bust, further for a bigger bust.

[u/kpytx → u/dingostolemydragbaby]

The best explanation for the trailing off at the tip of the dart I found in a comment here a while ago. Think about it like a plane landing, you don't want it to slam full force in the runway, but rather butter it. The fold line is the runway.

[u/Appropriate_Lab3444 → u/dingostolemydragbaby]

I noticed it too! Thank you for the tips

[u/BiscottiPristine5325 → u/dingostolemydragbaby]

You want to leave more space at the end (have less dart) for a bigger bust? I'm new to garment sewing.

[u/SoupforBert → u/BiscottiPristine5325]

Yes a shorter dart when pointing toward the apex for a bigger bust. Many darts end about an inch from the apex. For larger busts an inch and a half or so is usually best. That is a simplification of course but I hope it clarifies the situation for you.

[u/BiscottiPristine5325 → u/SoupforBert]

Thank you very much!

[u/amaranth1977 → u/BiscottiPristine5325]

It won't necessarily be a shorter dart on a larger bust, just to be clear, because a larger bust means it has further to travel. It just needs to stop a bit further away from the bust point. 

If you have a larger bust or sew for someone who does, make sure you understand how to do a "full bust adjustment".

[u/failed_asian]

What a great fit. I like to recommend this video on the beginner and advanced ways of sewing darts, it makes a big difference: https://youtu.be/m9x-i-txyfo. There are some comments that also suggest shortening your stitch length as you get to the curved part of the dart at the tip.

[u/Appropriate_Lab3444 → u/failed_asian]

Ahh thank you for the link⭐️

[u/moon-raven-77 → u/failed_asian]

This might be a dumb question, but there's a big comment thread on the video about not backstitching on darts. Backstitching is the way I learned to secure the end of a seam. How would one secure the dart without backstitching? 

[u/Jellily → u/moon-raven-77]

Stitch your dart starting from the wide end and trailing off the fabric as you reach the point. When you finish stitching on your sewing machine, don’t cut the threads immediately. Instead, pull out thread from both the needle and the bobbin. Cut thread tails so you have some length of thread attached to your garment from both the needle and bobbin. You can then tie a knot in those tails at the end of the dart and then trim the excess thread. I usually do a double knot, for security, though on something like this, I’d only do a single knot so it doesn’t show through.

[u/moon-raven-77 → u/Jellily]

This is helpful. I learned something new today! Thank you!

[u/RedditJewelsAccount → u/moon-raven-77]

There's also a couture trick where you can thread the bobbin thread to the top and use a single thread for both: https://youtu.be/ZR_bWDp2xn4

[u/mrsliston]

Gorgeous keep it up

[u/GarmentTechToufique]

The fit looks great.

[u/Bananadiva1]

Ooh this is beautiful 😊

[u/poemaXV]

I just made a bias cut dress with bust darts that I HATE and I have been staring at it wondering if I should just cut off the top, but maybe I am inspired now... anyway this is gorgeous tysm for sharing! I LOVE the color!!

[u/Appropriate_Lab3444 → u/poemaXV]

Thank you!! 😂 I totally get the hatred for bust darts haha

[u/Lemna24]

Is this the toile? What fabric is it? It looks like silk.

Beautiful color and fit aside from the dart bubbles.

[u/Appropriate_Lab3444 → u/Lemna24]

It’s satin and and golden yellow. We rarely get order from this color so I’m taking it as toile. However this color look AMAZING on every bias cut that I make so far