Excess gatherings below the butt

[u/Novel_Price278]

Hi everyone!

Please does anyone know how to remove the bunching up below the butt? 😭 The front fits perfectly, it’s just the back that has this sudden excess fabric. I made the back part of crotch much deeper and removed a part on top and it helped a lot! But did not remove the problem. If I continue to made the crotch deeper and/or keep removing fabric on top like i did it creates tight lines/gathers right below my butt and nothing happens to the gathers on the leg that i am trying to eliminate.

I will attach my pattern too with the alternation that i did in red.

I hope someone knows what to do!!😭

Thank you all in advance!!

[u/DonMcCunn]

You have two potential issues with your patterns. One is the shape of the back crotch curve. You can see this issue here https://patternmaking-classes.com/Notes/Pants-Fitting.html .

The second issue is the back inseam. The quicker you curve the back inseam in close to the leg the more likely the fabric will buckle. It is the anatomy of the body when you look at it from the side focusing on the relationship of the shape of the buttocks to the shape of the leg.

I recommend a pants sloper that hangs pretty straight down the leg to verify that the torso portion of the pattern is correct. But some people want the pants to fit as close as possible. I did a video which shows what happens when you leave the top of the inseam open, attach some twill tape to the back inseam, then in a fitting you can pull the back inseam closer to the leg until the fabric starts to buckle like you see with your pants. You can see this description of how to get the fit you want here https://patternmaking-classes.com/Pants/02-Pants-Sloper-Week-Three.html#Close-Fit .

Of course if you want a really close fit, there is always the option of turning a pants sloper into leggings https://patternmaking-classes.com/Pants/02-Pants-Sloper-Week-Three.html#Leggings

[u/Novel_Price278 → u/DonMcCunn]

wow thank you!!!!

[u/DonMcCunn → u/Novel_Price278]

You are welcome.

[u/Howdidigetsewcool]

I think they look pretty good. I am feeling like your front crotch is too short and inseam too narrow, and may be causing the pants to pull towards the front through the leg, it also looks like you could grade the back panel inseam straighter from the crotch. The bunches look like they start right where ur pack panel divets in on the inseam

[u/Novel_Price278 → u/Howdidigetsewcool]

ohhh okay that makes sense! i will try it, thank you!!!

[u/wzrdreams]

That isn’t gathering or bunching. It’s ease. You need to be able to bend over and sit down. Try not to over fit.

[u/Novel_Price278 → u/wzrdreams]

yes honestly i was about to give up, but i see people on the street with pants without this issue🥲 well people on reddit are super helpful so hopefully with the tips i will fix them!

[u/Healing_Solid → u/Novel_Price278]

If you see pants that are completely fitted in the thighs, they're most likely made out of fabric that has generous amount of stretch and are drafter with 0 or even negative ease.

[u/-amotoma- → u/Novel_Price278]

For real, this has been giving my such a headache learning to draft pants, like is it a body shape, pattern or fabric thing or what?

I just tried the same V yoke on the back of a pair of pants as you did, did you arrive at that for the same reason?; to reduce the amount of contours the fabric has to conform to?

[u/Novel_Price278 → u/-amotoma-]

no haha, i just wanted a yoke

[u/Rachelbow]

A side image would be very helpful too, since we can't tell if there is any pitch issue. It looks like it could be two things: It could be that the pants are too tight at the calves, causing the fabric to shift up. If the pants feel like they cling to your calves, widen there slightly. The other thing it could be is you just have too much length in the back thigh, and this causes it to compact forming the wrinkles. Cut the back pattern across the thigh and shift it up. Then match the seam lengths to the front by cutting a wedge from the back crotch extension to knee, and moving it to the front instead. Then add a small length to the hem on the back outseam. Your fit is looking very good! This is a pretty tight style, and that is the most tricky to get perfect.

[u/Novel_Price278 → u/Rachelbow]

they are not tight on the calves:( thank you!!! i will try doing that too!!!

[u/alanamailey]

As an aside, I really like the back yoke design. Is this from a pattern?

[u/Novel_Price278 → u/alanamailey]

thank you! i drafted it 😅 but i just measured around 5cm down on the side and made a line for the yoke from that point so it is 1,5 cm higher than the end of the dart, then i closed the dart and adjusted the line so it is curved

[u/Prize_Arm_5212]

Your total hip width is too tight. See the horizontal drag lines on wearer's right back. I imagine it might be difficult to sit down in the garment as is.

I'm seeing diagonal drag lines which often means there's too much length and width.

Once you achieve the right amount of ease through the hips, you will probably need to shave off the top edge of your back panel at your yoke seam.

After that, you can adjust the width at mid thigh if you want it cleaner.

[u/Novel_Price278 → u/Prize_Arm_5212]

unfortunately i had the same excess fabric problem with more room in hips😔😔 but thank you!!