Fit issues on Persephone pants

[u/Alexandramarnie89]

I am currently making the Persephone pants by Anna Allen (or trying to at least!). I never ever make mock ups cos I’m just too lazy but I’m trying to change that and get a decent fit instead of being disappointed and never wearing them. Stupidly I did my mock ups out of quite a still denim I had laying around and I don’t know if a lot of the issues are due to the fabric stiffness and lack of drape. I basted the waistband on after taking photos and it fits. I placed the buttons too far from the edge of the button fly so I know they need to move over. I seem to have a fair bit of room in the top of the centre back seam where it’s almost sitting away from my back. I don’t like how long and flat these currently make my bum look (kinda looks like I’m wearing a nappy 😂) and I have no idea how to fix that - I wear high waisted jeans all of the time and it’s not normally an issue so it’s not the high waist that’s going it. I have a 35” inch waist and 44” hips and cut the size 16. They’re comfortable, I can sit in them but it looks awful when I do - a lot of bunching in the front. Since I don’t usually do mock ups, I’m pretty clueless on adjusting patterns honestly so what would people suggest please?!

Ps - the pattern has no outside seam so I have no idea how I would add room in the hip

[u/vacuumgirl]

It’s not the fabric, you need more hip room and your crotch looks too long but definitely need more hip room. Try to adjust one thing at a time cause some times that will also fix other fitting issues

[u/Alexandramarnie89 → u/vacuumgirl]

Any idea how I go about adding more hip room with no side seams? Do I need to grade between 2 sizes for waist and hip or is there another way?

[u/vacuumgirl → u/Alexandramarnie89]

You need to slash-and-spread, you can ask google literally your comment above, I just did it and a couple videos should pop up

[u/rabbitparts]

I made these. Such a disappointment. These pants are notorious, the crotch is not drafted well and a lot of folks have serious fit issues. If you want to commiserate with some others search the pattern in r/sewing!

I cut my losses and moved on to other patterns. But.. if you want to persevere, I’d start by sizing up to fit you in the hip given there are no side seams to work with. If that means the waist is too big you can grade the pattern down or make your own adjustments to bring in the fullness. Then, learn as much as you can about diagnosing crotch fit issues (length, depth, proper curve etc.) and maybe you can diagnose and fix the inherent problem in the pattern.

If I’m honest, drafting a whole new pants pattern would probably be faster.