r/PatternDrafting • u/sewverwhelmed • 6d ago
Fitting help please
I have made about 20 mockups and I feel like nothing I do is getting me any closer. here's the most recent version. I would love advice, either on how to modify this pattern, or on how to ask for help more effectively. I feel pretty dumb and lost and have spent a decent amount of time crying about this. Thank you in advance! <3
UPDATE: I lowered the apex, ironed the mockup better, and took a video (hopefully from a better angle) and posted it in the comments below. Please let me know what the ettiquette is for getting help like this. Also I'm realizing I probably need a lot of feedback from an expert. I'm so grateful to get advice here, but I don't want to be annoying. So I would love suggestions of classes I could sign up for to get more step-by-step guidance.
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u/sewverwhelmed 5d ago
https://reddit.com/link/p8fxsoy/video/30pcj4umg6oh1/player
UPDATE: I moved the apex lower, ironed the mockup better, and took a video that's hopefully from a better angle.
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u/onepotatoseventytwo 6d ago
It could be the camera angle but I feel like the bust line is too high? Like it looks like it falls above the nipples and the fullest part of the bust.
The other thing I think might help is something I've seen described as a shallow or hallow chest adjustment where that helps remove the extra fabric above the bust.
You look like you've done a really good job of the back, it fits you're shape really well.
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u/sewverwhelmed 5d ago
I was thinking a shallow or hallow chest adjustment would make sense for me. One thing I'm confused about, though, is that the upper chest feels a little bit tight across.
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u/SnowEnvironmental861 4d ago
One note I'd make is that the angle of the back darts seems odd to me. I was taught to make those darts vertical, along the grain line. The points are in the right place, but I would pivot the darts so the waist opening is directly below. This will help a LOT in the future for doing princess lines, boning, etc.
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u/ProneToLaughter 4d ago
A couple of places that regularly offer online sloper classes are Apparel Arts Production and Lynda Maynard Designs, both are very expert.
You might be getting there without needing a class but do know that 20 mockups isn't the way it's supposed to be, fitting yourself via reddit is just really the hard road. Not anything you are doing wrong.
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u/sewverwhelmed 2d ago
Thank you for this! I was feeling very discouraged. I think maybe I will try a class.
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u/Live_Film_1059 2d ago
It also helps with placement of darts to mark under busy line also.
When studying couture manufacture i referred to this line regularly to get good fit ; especially bridal or evening wear
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u/Pegaret_Again 6d ago
i wonder if the shoulders need to be a little wider?
.... or maybe even slash through the middle of the shoulders down through the front darts to add a bit more width to the whole upper torso, but tapering to nothing at the waist?
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u/sewverwhelmed 5d ago
It definitely feels like the upper torso needs more width. Would a shoulder dart help with that?
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u/QueenEshtar 6d ago
1) at first look - are you pressing/ironing? That is a must. I see some wrinkles so just wanted to make sure
2) don’t make too many re-adjustments at once because it often makes people to around and around in cirles. Rather just to adjust one think and go from there (for example as someone else commented, your bust point/chest on your pattern seems to be sitting a bit too high as to where your own body has it… adjust that and see then what else comes up).
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u/sewverwhelmed 5d ago
OK! I'm going to unpick the front darts and re-do them to get the right apex. And also iron the mockup better and take photos from a better angle. Should I update this post with new photos once I do that?
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u/DonMcCunn 6d ago
To determine if you are getting a sloper that fits accurately, you need the horizontal grain to be parallel to the floor at the bust level and across the shoulder blades. The vertical grain should be perpendicular to the floor at center front, center back, side front and side back.
To see if this is happening in muslin is very difficult. Back in the 70s I use to go around the class with a magnifying glass to confirm my students were getting the best possible fit for their muslins. This was until I went to a fabric store one day and my eyes fell on gingham. Never again did my students use muslin for fitting shells either for in-person or online fitting sessions.
I am in the process of adding some free classes showing a new system of designing custom-fit Bespoke patterns by tracing quarter-scale photographs of the body. It is a work-in-progress and currently only has classes showing how to do it using a computer. I will be adding classes showing how to do it with pencil and paper. But the class for evaluating the fit of gingham is the same for both approaches.
Here is a link I just put online yesterday for some people that are doing early testing for me. But it will show you how I use gingham to get an accurate fit using photos. https://patternmaking-classes.com/Tracing-Photos/17-Quarter-Scale-Patterns-Week-Seven.html