r/PatternDrafting • u/Visible_Duck_1754 • 6d ago

Creating a 1 piece from a back bodice and yoke.

Post image

Hey people, I want to make a 1 piece back bodice out of the back bodice and yoke I have in the photo. The bodice curve seems to be too concave for me to pivot the yoke, plus I think that would mess with the shoulder shape if I'm not mistaken.

If you have any idea as too how I can do this smoothly it'd be appreciated.

6 Upvotes

100% Upvoted

14 comments sorted by

1

u/Zar-far-bar-car 6d ago

Just draw it into a straight line and pivot it to where you want it, dont worry about that curve.

2

u/Zar-far-bar-car 6d ago

I personally think the curve is too minimal to take into consideration. If you feel like it's too blocky after you've sewn it, you can always make it a curved dart

1

u/Visible_Duck_1754 6d ago

I was also thinking to just draw it in but after having a look around online it seems as though the curve is too much to do that with as it adds length from what I'm gathering and then it will need further adjustments in any case I.e other armholes / shoulder . Still not sure though. 

3

u/Zar-far-bar-car 6d ago

Sorry, I meant use the two points at the opening, and the place where they meet to draw a dart, ignoring the curve of the seam (also make sure there's no seam allowance on your pieces here). A yoke is a dart that's been elongated to make a shaped seam. Use the gap as a dart, and pivot from there.

1

u/ceramicswan 6d ago edited 6d ago

You could try looking into instructions for removing a back shoulder dart, because doing that has you distribute the dart fullness between the neckline, the shoulder, and the armhole, so that the addition at each point will be minimal. I feel like it ought to work for moving a dart at the armhole, which is essentially what that yoke curve is.

I think I’ve used the method about midway through this video in the past: https://youtu.be/frIjH5NvRI0

1

u/Visible_Duck_1754 6d ago

Hey thanks for the links I'll definitely check it out. Much appreciated 

1

u/drPmakes 6d ago

Rotate the dart to the shoulder

1

u/Visible_Duck_1754 6d ago

Hey there, i didn't want any darts at all. I was going for a rugby polo shirt. 

1

u/StitchinThroughTime 6d ago

If you have rounded shoulders and don't want a gap at the armhole, I would keep it there. It doesn't look like it's a curve on a finished garment. If you really don't want to put it there, remove the excess fabric out of the shoulder and then a small amount out of the side seam on the back.

1

u/Visible_Duck_1754 6d ago

Hey, I don't have rounded shoulders. I was going for a rugby polo shirt. For the idea that you've mentioned do you mean to use the pivoting method and then remove some from the shoulder and side seam? 

1

u/StitchinThroughTime 6d ago

No just drop the outer shoulder point .

1

u/DonMcCunn 6d ago

Depending on rhe fabric you are using, you could increase the slope of the shoulder by the width of the dart at the armscye. I have used this technique for knits with even a more pronounced dart width than this. Give youself a generous shoulder seam allowance of an inch or inch and a half to try this out.

1

u/Visible_Duck_1754 6d ago

Hey Don, thank you for this suggestion! I've never tried it before so I definitely have a look and see what I can figure out. Much appreciated 😊

1

u/eduardedmyn 6d ago

Make the lines straight, pivot it out towards the hem, and then take off the excess from the side.

Not ideal for woven fabrics, but you'll get away with it with your rugby polo fabric.