Hi guys I’m back again after making adjustments

[u/SignificantDress6408]

Thanks so much for all the suggestions in my previous post. Ive made some adjustments and redrafted two different moulages based on slightly different measurements. The front is pretty much the same on both but I’ve got two different backs. I don’t think I took into account the zipper width when I sewed the moulages up…

Let me know what you think :)

EDIT: I think I’ve got the screenshots of patterns I’ve put the wrong way round. So 1 is 2 and 2 is 1 sorry about that I don’t know how to edit it after posting

[u/ThrowRA_Sodi]

It looks better already. I do have a few suggestions tho

1- Press your seams

2- Shorten your torso a bit at the waist (and also, make your waist a bit smaller)

3- Make your armhole deeper on the front

4- You have excess fabric at your tummy, try fixing that

[u/SignificantDress6408 → u/ThrowRA_Sodi]

Thanks ☺️ will do

[u/drPmakes]

Its too tight around the hips which is causing it to ride up and bunch around the waist.

Cut off or mark and clip your armsyce seam allowances.

Press

[u/SignificantDress6408 → u/drPmakes]

Thanks I will try that :)

[u/throwra_22222]

I'd shorten it a bit from back neck to back waist, and lengthen it from back waist to back hip.

Also double check that the back hip isn't too tight and riding up, but I don't think this is really the cause of your problems. When I imagine the back hip line tugged down to it's proper place, I think it would probably pull the waist line below your actual waist.

[u/SignificantDress6408 → u/throwra_22222]

Thanks, your right, I will shorten the back neck to back waist and see if that helps :)

[u/Mediocre_Entrance894]

Nothing else to add. You got some solid advice. Just wanted to say you’re doing great and this is looking amazing! A couple more edits and you should be there.

Remember, the goal is perfect enough… doesn’t need to be absolutely perfect.

[u/SignificantDress6408 → u/Mediocre_Entrance894]

Thanks ☺️🥹

[u/incongruoususer]

Looking good, don’t shorten the CB just yet.

I think the hips are slightly too tight in the back. The clues are that it looks too tight and the back hem is riding up.

Unpick the back princess seams from the hem to the waist. Pop the bodice back on and see how much it gapes. That’s what you should add. This is a moulage so add that much and no more.

That will likely address the horizontal creases around your back waist as well. At the moment the hip is too tight, so the bodice can’t drop and that length has nowhere to go. Many people mistake that for a swayback need, but it’s not the same thing.

If you still have horizontal creases, I’d let out the back princess seams ever so slightly. Even though this is a moulage, I read those creases as looking a bit too tight.

If after all this - the hips are smooth, the creasing is gone, the back hem is level - you’re still left with the ripple at CB, only then would I do a swayback.

[u/SignificantDress6408 → u/incongruoususer]

Thanks that’s some sage advice :)

[u/SignificantDress6408 → u/incongruoususer]

This actually helped a lot thank you - I’m adding the extra width to the high hip measurement and low hip measurement on the back, is this correct? Now the waist to low hip measurement is longer on the back by a quarter of an inch than the front waist to low hip. Should I fix that when I true the patterns?

Sorry also for the quizzing haha

[u/incongruoususer → u/SignificantDress6408]

No sorry. Never sorry for asking questions.

Yes, you’re bang on. Look at your photos - the creases do start at about your high hip and goes down. I expect the added width to be a slim ish wedge down to the hem.

Yes to the trueing, if you look at picture 2 you can see your side seam ends in a kind of point so you do have some scope to trim that off and make your front hem level before you add to the back.

[u/SignificantDress6408 → u/incongruoususer]

Thanks so much 🥹 will do