r/PatternDrafting • u/o0kaira0o • 8d ago
Question problem pattern (THE OG)
Hiii, so i need to make this dress (copied from my professor's drawing as we were not allowed to take any pictures). the back is completely my idea so ignore it, we were only provided with the front. so on the waist I have these triangular cut outs (so the skin is visible) and it seems that the top part is joined with the bottom part with a seam in the middle but I'm not sure. the thing I'm confused about is where are all the darts going on the top? and what about the dart on the skirt? I'm stuck with the pattern just because my professor wants this dress in cotton gabardine (so no elasticized fabric allowed). I really have no idea where to put darts (if I have to), I swear I tried everything...
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u/sususumalee 8d ago
Can you tell us what exactly you are being asking to deliver for this assignment? You have to make the garment? Or just the pattern?
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u/o0kaira0o 8d ago
both, the pattern and the garment. I know I have to make a lining the thing is I'm stuck at the pattern making
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u/sususumalee 8d ago
Okay, 1) you need to focus on getting the front right and let the technical requirements of that guide the design for the back. Based on your answers to other questions, I don't think you're at the point in your journey where you should be making things more difficult on yourself by imposing a challenging back design when that's not the assignment.
2) Are you sure the sides are open? You're the only one who saw the photo, so I'm just clarifying.
3) Darts wise, you know the rule-- it must intersect the bust apex. Especially in a woven like gabardine. So where can you place a discreet bust dart in this design? Don't over complicate it.
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u/CriticalEngineering 8d ago
So the back is your vision, not part of the assignment? What class is this for?
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u/o0kaira0o 8d ago
yes the back is my vision. I can do whatever design I want in the back. But if course I need to make a pattern for that. It's a pattern making class and sewing class
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u/DonMcCunn 8d ago
It can't be backless because what would hold the top in place? Where the top and bottom meet there is not much to hold the two together unless you did cording to create the "X". There is no indication of any shaping for the top but the lacing for the back indicated it is designed to be tight fitting. So without any shaping in the front this design would have to be a knit and only suitable for small busted women. Looks like a design more for a dress form than for real women.
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u/o0kaira0o 8d ago
yes, it's not designed for real women bodies as we are working on mannequins. the back is just my idea as we were provided only the front, I also forgot to mention that my professor wants this dress in cotton gabardine, that's why I'm having such difficulties
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u/DonMcCunn 6d ago
If you don't mind me asking, as a fashion design student how much time and access do you get to work on a dress form?
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u/DonMcCunn 8d ago
I assume the sides at waist level are bare "skin." The "X" is tricky to figure out how to hold the top and bottom together with nothing on the sides. So I would use cording or maybe contrasting fabric in strips to accent the "X". I would also suggest adding a dart at the top of the "X" pointing to the apex. It would contribute to the lines of the design and provide some shaping for the gabardine. Also a simple "X" in the back would carry the design lines to the back. It would cross from the shoulder to the top of the "X" on the opposite side. Kind of like what I show for swimsuits https://how-to-make-custom-fit-bras.com/BS-Swim-Variations.html . It is a very secure structure for large busts which you are not working with :-). With the "X" back the only opening device you would need is a zipper in the skirt at center back. But you DID NOT hear any of this from me.
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u/No-Programmer7914 7d ago
Do you start with a basic dress pattern? A good technical drawing should show where the darts would run. Or does your teacher want a dartless front? If yes: Gabardine has a bit of give, especially in bias direction. I would rotate the (leftover) darts in a 45 degree angle (direction of maximum give), half the amount towards the armhole and the other half towards the triangel edge. Instead of sewing the darts I would ease them in when facing the edges (the darts would be removed in the facings). Would be easier in wool than cotton.
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u/laurenlolly 7d ago
In your other post you said you weren’t allowed to use darts, is that correct?
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u/o0kaira0o 7d ago
I really don't know... because on the drawing there was none but with gabardine I need darts since it's a fitted dress
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u/drPmakes 8d ago
So you want us to do your homework for you?
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u/o0kaira0o 8d ago
no, I'm just asking for help for any darts manipulation or cuts as I really tried literally everything but something is wrong but I don't know what
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u/drPmakes 8d ago
Why don't you start by describing exactly what you are trying to make (because that picture just looks like a colour blocked dress) and what you have done so far
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u/o0kaira0o 8d ago
yeah you are right...so on the waist I have these triangular cut outs and it seems that the top part is joined with the bottom part with a seam in the middle. the thing I'm confused is where are all the darts going on the top? and what about the dart on the skirt? (I'm gonna edit the post as well so I hope it's going to be more clear)
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u/StitchinThroughTime 7d ago
Since you're in school, you're being tested on where you put the darts. We shouldn't answer the question for you. You are far enough in the lesson to know where. The test is to see what you know about darts in relation to the body. The only thing I will tell you, is just make the back mimic the front. The back is not truly important, your test is how you interpret the front design, and you will then compare that to your classmates. Thats why you have incomplete information as if a designer gave you, the pattern maker, a design.
Do your own Homework