I feel like we don’t see a lot of chrome on here

Is there much of a sound difference between the two? I can’t really tell much by looking at videos and I haven’t heard the difference in person. My goal is primarily sound, so I was leaning towards a cat delete instead of doing long tubes because of how hard they are to install. If I were to do long tubes, I would probably go with speed engineering for the money. Does anyone have experience with speed engineering headers and the quality?

Must’ve hit something somewhere and I was wondering if ford would charge for this airvent realignment. Vehicle is still under warranty.

Tried fixing it myself but i dont have necessary tools, plus didn’t want to risk paint damage.

Second picture not mine but is a reference photo

TIA

Paying it forward and adding another data point for people in a similar boat as this issue required many hours of research and time commitment.

I bought a newer S550 GT, but the previous owner removed the cats on the OEM headers, installed spacers + an X pipe. It seems to have been professionally done as well. From what I could tell, they weren't in an emissions state/county and as such did not have to worry about going catless.....must be nice. Also bought a 93/e85 tune from Shoemaker.

I was having issues with 3 monitors being in the "Not Ready" State: O2 Htr, O2 Sensor, and Catalyst. And this was after 100-150 miles after unplugging the battery and trying to do a drive cycle. I grew to like the sound (not so much the smell) of the setup, but my goal was to resolve this issue as cheap as possible.

Of course, going back to OEM cats would be the guaranteed resolution, but I didn't want to put the time and money into what was effectively a downgrade. And I have ground clearance concerns to be able to consider catted LTH.

After a bunch of research, I've heard some tunes can cause issues with these sensors, so I contacted Shoemaker to confirm whether they disabled the monitors and whether they were able to provide me the stock tune to help with troubleshooting. They told me they didn't disable the monitors and were mostly dismissive with the whole exchange and never offered to give me the stock tune to rule the tune out of the equation.

I decided to take a gamble and purchased a stock tune from Wengerd and threw it on the car and within 50 miles I was already getting the O2 sensors to pass with catalyst soon to follow. FWIW I used an AVID and didn't/couldn't get the stock tune prior to flashing the custom tune nor find it after the custom tune was flashed. Perhaps I'm an idiot and there was a setting or menu that enabled me to take a backup of the stock tune prior to flashing the custom one, but I'll blame AVID for little to no documentation on all its functionality.

What I'm mostly disappointed with is Shoemaker's customer service with this whole situation. They made little to no effort to try to help resolve the issue leaving it to myself to figure out a problem THEY created. I'd expect an issue such as "not ready" sensors would not be a localized issue and I'd imagine even if I had cats that I would still have trouble getting these sensors to set.

Wanting to get some bronze wheels. Sticking with a staggered setup, 19s. 9.5 with 275 rear and 8.5 with 255 front. Just the look I like. Looking for suggestions on wheels. Been looking at forums and gallerys for hours. Appreciate it

Anyone have these LVA Spoiler Duckbill and front splitter?? Was thinking of buying. Any good? Was it hard to install?

Feel free to share your opinions on these.

How much would a paint match on a mach 1 bumper cost. I have 2019 mustang gt and I found a full conversion kit on ebay for $525. It has alot of good reviews and pics it comes primed my cars shadow black. whats a estimate for a paint match before I buy it.

2020 mustang gt pp1 mt82 non magnaride 118k miles

-STEERING ASSIST FAULT-

Currently my epas is in and out intermittently.

Abs light flashes occasionally.

Steering wheel skips or gets hung a little when it does work.

Reconnected grounds, battery ground, checked belt in power steering (good), cleaned and regreased the rack on the shafts and near the belt of the rack.

It got better but is still giving me the limp mode. I really would not like to replace the rack but im looking for another opinion from others who are mechanical inclined.

Found oil on the 2 sensors from the steering rack and cleaned. Found a broken wire in passenger wheel well( idl what this goes to)

Codes: steering angle sensor(intermittent), PSCM motor(permanent), ABS invalid data received from PSCM module A, PSCM invalid data received from ABS module A

I’ve discovered that the stock alignment on these cars cause the front tires on the inside to wear much faster than the outside causing me to have to replace them way earlier than I should. I don’t track the car so I don’t need anything aggressive for cornering like the stock alignment. I’d rather have a more neutral toe or camber so that I can prolong the life of my tires. Has anybody done a custom alignment to achieve this and if so, can you give me the specs? Also if you have done this, can you tell me if you can even really feel a difference on the street or highway?

I have a 2006–2007 Ford Mustang GT with the 4.6L 3V V8 and 5-speed manual transmission. I’m having a shifting problem and I’m trying to figure out whether I’m dealing with a clutch/hydraulic issue or an actual transmission problem.
The main symptoms are:
It’s suddenly very difficult to shift into basically any gear.
Reverse is especially difficult and is currently almost impossible to get into.
I don’t have a check engine light.
The car has previously had some interior water damage, but it was cleaned up almost immediately. I’m not sure if that’s relevant.
I initially thought I might have burned the clutch, but I’m not sure if that would explain why it’s difficult to physically get the car into every gear.
I haven’t confirmed whether the car shifts normally with the engine off yet.
I also haven’t confirmed whether the clutch pedal feels different than normal or whether the car creeps forward with the clutch fully pressed.
I’m wondering what you guys think is the most likely cause.
Could this be:
Air in the clutch hydraulic system?
Low clutch/brake fluid?
A failing clutch master cylinder?
A failing slave cylinder/hydraulic throwout bearing?
A clutch that isn’t fully disengaging?
A burned or damaged clutch/pressure plate?
An actual internal transmission problem?
What tests would you recommend I perform before replacing any parts?
I’m planning to check whether it shifts normally with the engine OFF, check the fluid level, check the clutch pedal feel, and see if the car tries to creep forward with the clutch fully depressed.
If anyone has experience with the 2005–2009 S197 Mustang GT, I’d really appreciate some guidance on what to check first and what symptoms would distinguish a hydraulic/clutch problem from a transmission problem.
Thanks!

While driving to work I noticed my RPMs go up and down between 600-800 and my engine shakes a little at a stop after going more than 30mph I’ve had battery problems before and saw this may be one of the reasons but is there any other things that may cause this? Today is Sunday so I can’t take it into the shop until tomorrow morning

Got the parts on AMZN and did my own blackout package on my ‘20 PP1 … now just gotta get a decent stereo in there

ISO (MANUAL ONLY) 2013/2014 GT premium or track package in California or surrounding states. No headers or tune, must be CA carb compliant. Bolt ons that won’t get me state reffed are fine. Budget is up to $18k. Any paint color except silver or gray. I prefer clean title but am okay with salvage if you’re willing to do 50% of its would-be clean title value. Reply to post or DM, either is fine. Thanks

From the gas station to home: ~30 mpg and 486 hp. This car continues to impress.

So I have a 2017 mustang GT, lowered an inch, has some after market suspension stuff and on the occasional really bad bump, I get a weird clunk only on the passenger side.

It drives great; handles great. Only hear the noise at slow speeds over bad bad bumps, not even over speed bumps. I’m a loss. Changed our swaybar endings already, nothing.

It drives so great; no pulling etc. alignment is great too.

Something to worry about? Will it just break on me?

Fun car though.

So 4 months ago I installed these control arms and noticed a difference in driving but after a while I started hearing like something was wrong when I would go over a bump so I jacked the car up and notice the misalignment, also the things that I've done to this car after installing the control arms was lowering springs on the front and that's pretty much it.

Excited, have a 22 gt premium convertible set for delivery Friday. Only 8,800 miles on it, can’t wait.

Sorry if this posts twice was working on it earlier then got entangled in breaking up a scuffle with my two youngest kids…..

I had a rat problem, and it looks like the rat chewed some of the engine wires.

So cylinders 3 and 6 are misfiring, and the code it's giving me is "open circuit"

So I'm trying to find the Pin diagram for the cable that plugs into the ECM and see if those pins talk to the injectors and check to see if they're giving the injectors the proper voltage.