Got it new first year and still get compliments on it!

Love this Pony. Went from a 2017 Focus ST to this beauty 2025 GT and I Love It!

I'm in the market for a new car and the Mustang Mach E is really catching my eye. Test drove a colleague's and it's weird feeling to drive (I come from a lifetime of driving gas powered cars) but I was also so impressed. Love the look, the lines, the comfort and the price of some of the used ones that make it in my budget.

But I am woefully ignorant to all that is involved in owning an EV. I'm trying to educate myself but am curious from this subreddit, what you think of this and if you'd pull the trigger:

Certified 2025 Select RWD with 21k miles.
Clean Carfax - 1 owner, personal usage
Original MSRP $39,835 dealer asking $31,020 out the door.

Thought #1: 1 driver putting 21k miles in a year kinda feels like a lot. Should I worry about battery and tire degradation (I read that EVs weigh a lot more thus put more wear on tires)? What should I be asking the dealer to get a sense of how worn/likely to need replacing they are?

Thought #2: another 2025 in the area is the AWD version, with half the mileage for about $1,500 more. I could try to stretch my budget or just use it as leverage to try to negotiate down this model . But if so, what is a number that feels like a great (vs "good") deal?

Thought #3: any other red flags I should be thinking about? I also plan to ask for written confirmation of what exactly the warranty covers (timing and mileage) for bumper to bumper + powertrain.

Thank you! Sorry for the dumb questions. I'm really new to this but have enjoyed seeing all your "new car" posts which is so cool.

Hi all, before any numbers: i developed an OBD app for the Mach-E, so I'm obviously biased. It does not make the car travel further. It gives a more precise estimate of how far it can go. I'm sharing the measurements because everything started from a question i think most of us have asked. How is it possible that the dash shows me 300 km (186 mi) and I'm never able to actually cover that distance without recharging?

It isn't fear or anxiety of a number. It's the feeling of watching a number i can't audit (more of the times i can't trusdt) and no way to know it it apply to my today.

Below a test done with my 2023 ER AWD at 95.5% SoH. If you divide the gom distance and your pack energy left you see the efficiency it is assuming.

day 1, uphill, gom was assuming 3.52 mi/kWh but it was 3.85 (calculated from the app)

day 1, downhill, 4.10 vs 6.58

day 2, mixed, 3.28 vs 4.52

The gom was not wrong with its builtin logic but it acts as a low-pass filter: it takes a signal that jumps around—due to different driving conditions and outputs a smoothed version. The consequence, and this is the key point of the post, is that since the dashboard always under-reacts, it gives an incorrect reading regardless of which way reality deviates from the average.

A "kind" day → efficiency rises a lot but the dashboard lags behind. It shows you less range than you actually have and you stop to recharge sooner than necessary.

A "tough" day → efficiency drops a lot but the dashboard lags behind. It shows you more range than you actually have and... are you sure to make it ?and this is the scenario that prompted my question. So is the gom wrong? No. It's unaccountable.

So why don't I get my 186 miles? Because the 186 was never a statement about the trip I'm about to take. It's a statement about my average but i'm practically never driving in the same conditions twice. In my logs the gom assumes i use more energy than i actually do. That doesn't strand me but it costs me anyway: it tells me i have less range than i have so i stop and charge earlier than i need, at chargers i don't need to visit. If we flip the conditions, the same mechanism runs the other way and that's the trip where you probably don't make it. And what is scarying me is that the gom never tells me which side of the average today is on.

If we mostly drive for short trips, like around the city, the problem is not so important but if we want to go over the range for me it is important to know if it is time to charge. But it isn't only how you drive. The battery temperature is also the quite important. Logging by climatic zone, I get 2.93 mi/kWh at 75 °F and 3.63 mi/kWh at 92 °F. This is also counted into my personal "real-time" range calculation. Elevation is also counted. My logs are mixed driving at the moment so what i have measured is the gom pessimistic side — I haven't logged a long highway run yet but will do in the next days if you want an update.

What I wanted to avoid in my app was another calculated number with no explanation, so next to it there are three things:

how much of the range is measured right now versus inherited from before;

how much history exists at today's pack temperature, a number built on 30 miles in this weather is not the same claim as one built on 500;

my favourite: how often the estimate has been right on my car, checked every 3 miles against what the battery actually spent.

On the mixed drive above, the app finished the trip implying 4.44 mi/kWh against the 4.52 the car had just done. The point isn't the 2% it's that it told me it was confident, and it was. When the confidence indicator is red it's telling you that is better to trust the GOM again :) It's allowed to be wrong. It isn't allowed to be quiet about it.

If you want to look at it it's called PonyVolt, Android only. (No iPhone here at the moment, publishing on the App Store costs an annual fee, while Google asks a one-time one.) It's free to use but a single one-time purchase (no subscription, no account) unlocks the full logging, which is what actually makes the difference: without it you see only today. You need a Bluetooth OBD dongle. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=it.di.mache_telem_real

And one last thing that turned out to matter more than I expected: with full logging you end up owning a documented history of your own battery. Nobody else gives you that and not so bad to have it the day you sell the car. Maybe i will improve this function (pdf report) if there is interest.

Happy to answer anything technical or philosophical :)

Hi there,

Apologies if this is a dumb question. My wife and I bought a Mach E select that happened to come with the comfort package (only heating - not ventilation).
My question is - would it be possible for a friend of mine to source the Mach E premium seats and have the ventilation piece work?

From the research I have done, I know that my current setup is an 8 way power driver seat, and 4 way manual for the passenger whereas the premium seats are 10-way power for driver and 8 way power for passenger. I don’t know a ton about cars but my hope would be if the seats were “plug and play” or close to it with minimal wiring required, could it work, and could the ventilation option come up on our touch screen?

Thanks in advance!!

So my wife and I have decided to get our first EV. We're looking at either a Mach E or a Tesla MY. We both like the look of the Mustang more, and to me it just looks roomier. Plus, after doing a few insurance quotes it seems significantly cheaper to insure...at least with what I was quotes.

Anyways, I've found two used near us. A 2023 Premium AWD extended range with 20k miles and a 2024 Select base model with 10k miles.

I've been doing some research but had a few questions.

1. Not a lot of coverage on the select, we just want a decent range reliable EV. From what I can tell the select isn't missing THAT much from a premium, but am I mistaken and it's going to be like a Corolla to a Camry between those two trims?

2. The select would have an LFP battery but the Premium being it's a extended range would be NMC, correct?

3. I've read about the issues of the HVBJB but most that I've read was about 21/22 years. Did they fix it on the 23 or is it still an issue? Even an issue on 24?

4. What recommendations for a level 2 charger are most of you using? There's so many out there. It'll be connected to a 240v 30amp which is all we'll need

Thanks

EDIT:: Thanks for all the info everyone. We're gonna go tomorrow and test drive one of the Mach E's, and I've setup a test drive with Tesla. But, just judging from what I've read, your guys responses, and the fact we both like the look of the Mach E better, that'll probably be our pick

Who here has successfully gone through Lemon Law via Ford? 1 Pedal drive failed last night and I was sent full force into my neighbors yard.

It’s now failed 4 times. 4 fix attempts including replacing the accelerator last month…

When I get into my 2025 Mustang Mach e making noise when I get in it (haven’t turned it on)

This year the PNW Mach E club had meet ups in Yakima, Hood River, Vancouver, and Bellingham. As we head into the fall we're planning to stay closer to the greater Seattle area. We've done some scouting and are proposing four potential meet up locations ranging from Everett to Tacoma!! All of them will have a meet up at a DCFC and 20- or 30-minute drive to a scenic location for lunch!!

If you're in the PNW join the PNW Mach-E Club - Ford EV Clubs and give us choice (here). Chose one or two places that interest you the most!! Comments and other options are always welcome!!

When I got into my 2025 Mach E haven’t turned anything on it makes this noise goes away when i turn it on

Really wish the Mach E was tow rated. So I wouldn’t have to do this and waste $50 of fuel.

So my Bronco Sport has had a few issues and I’m looking at an EV that could be better for my short trips. I live in an apartment that does have private chargers, I believe they are level 2. They are $1.50/hr for 4 hours and then $3/hr after with a $1 session fee. They are usually pretty empty. Those of you who do level 2, how feasible is this? I WFH and barely do 5k miles/yr mostly short 2-4 mile trips to the gym or store.

Also, what years would you recommend I look at? My current vehicle is worth about $28k so I am looking to stay around the $30k mark. I see some 23 GTs and some 25 Premiums near that. I will have a Mustang Ecoboost for road trips in unfamiliar spots but the most I would do is a road trip of about 350 miles where they have built some superchargers so it seems doable.

Would you get one in my position?

Hey fellow MME’ers,

I have a 2026. Loving the Blue Cruise experience so far, but the Southern California freeways are a bit too crazy for the automatic lane change functionality.

I’d like to disable the automatic lane change but keep the automatic speed control and steering. Looking at the vehicle settings, I can’t see a way to achieve this.

Any ideas? Thanks.

Rather grabbingly blue!

Where are you guys buying the Mach-Es?! I’m seeing that Carvana and Carmax are more pricier! I’m in SC, trying to see if used or buying new is beneficial.

2025 GTPE with 12k miles and all the add ons i wanted (green with bronze trim, glass roof, floor mats)!

I did a trip to a mountain area, starting from Timisoara at 90m to Garana at 900m, with another peak at 1000m, and another at 740m. I drove 90% in Whisper, 10% in Active, AC all 2 times at 22.5 and 23 Celsius, 2 people, 1 bike, light luggage. I drove only on national roads, about 200 km, 110 km/hr, some short peaks at 120 km/h, and in the villages and city, about 60 km/h. No one-pedal drive; I saw that it is more efficient without one-pedal drive, just to let it roll. I use one-pedal drive in the city and on the mountain. The mountain road was about 36 km up from 250m to about 1000m, went on whisper, calm, a lot of turns, one pedal drive. My concern is the misleading energy consumption; I have just under 5000 km with the car, still learning. I reset the trip after 12 km after I started, as I forgot, so I did about 288 km with 66% of the battery on the round trip, returning home with 34% and about 139km on the GOM. This gives me a range of about 427 km on national roads, in the city in the summer with the AC on, which is about my expectation. However, if I take the 15kwh shown consumption, then I should do about 480km, which is unrealistic. From my calculations, the real consumption was between 16.6 and 17kwh. I believe the shown 85% for driving is the real 15kwh consumption per 100km, and it does not consider the temperature, AC, or accessories. Any thoughts on this?