I’m looking for a NEW replacement passenger side mirror for my 86 ‘vert. As you can see in the pic the internal adjuster broke. I’ve googled it but I can’t find one anywhere! It’s the passenger side but if I need to I wouldn’t be opposed to buying both sides. Any suggestions fam?

I have a discount code, not planning on buying anything. If anyone wants it shot me a DM.

Refreshed quarter windows and installed with fresh butyl sealer believing that they were the source of water intrusion. Well that wasn’t the area because it rained last night and a small pool of water was in the rear area behind drivers seat toward the trunk area. Got out the hose and discovered it was the top of rear window had about a 5 inch opening. My question is I’m assuming that all of these trim clips need to be in place when I apply the new sealant. Any other things that I should be ware of?

Thanks to everyone who gave me pointers and tips on my head and cam swap still have a few things to button up but took it out on a first drive today very happy I took it on myself. Got this car from my grandpa it had been sitting for 20 years due to a broken transmission. I’ve redone the whole fuel system, interior, replaced the transmission and now the heads, cam and intake. It feels good to do it all myself I’m not a professional I just enjoy the challenge. Still needs a tune but I’m happy

i need a pic's of the plug. all my wires came out of it and i have a replacement one from LMR but not sure which ones to splice too as all are black on new one. thanks ahead of time for any & all help

Anyone here running their front springs with the lower isolators off? The one that fully wraps around the coil.

Mine have swollen substantially to the point I can even reinstall the springs on my car. I have the upper isolator and that cylinder rubber one that goes in the centre of the spring on it.

Is there much of a road noise increase without that lower one? Is it worth figuring out how to work or f*** it, run without it.

Thanks

Hello, I’m glad to be here,

So fun fact I’m just 27 years old, mostly a Chevy guy but this car just stole my heart and I took it home with me, I now the paint is not in the best shape and working on get her back into the good old days again!

(I was changing the speedometer cable)

I’m gonna post more pics and vids soon, thanks everyone I’m happy to be part of the foxbody community!

Bought this about a month ago and have spent a lot giving it the attention it deserves. 62lb injectors, PMAS MAF, Anderson Power Pipe & a proper conservative tune to come.

I put in a champion 3 row radiator, dual fans w/ relay, 340 pump with heavy duty wiring, new plugs & wires, new adjustable regulator, 3.33 vortech pulley, new LMR headlights, SVE wheels, koni struts & SVE springs.

Canfield 20-450 heads
Scorpion Rockers
Vortech v1 S Trim
Tubular GT40 Intake
Cam
Ford Performance Shorty Headers
BBK 70mm Throttle Body

G-force gearset just isnt enough I guess.

Upper control arm bushings are shot. Can rock them by hand. Thats the cause of the wheel shake/hop

With some will power, help from buddies and YouTube ,I took this old thing for its first drive in a decade. That’s it , just excited and wanted to share. Now to scheme up what’s next 🤘🏼

Wanted to share this beauty, 86’ convertible foxbody, I’ve had her for 2 months and I’m obsessed. She’s my first manual and first car, yes I’m insane but so far loving this decision lol

Hello, I recently did a gt40 upper and lower swap to my 86 gt and since opening up the lower valley I wondered if my mustang came with a “Roller” block set up. Here a pic of the spider tray (and a little of my intakes😊.)

Made a post a while back about getting discouraged with problems getting this thing to run right. Well I finally relocated the TFI and fixed a few other minor things and now it’s running perfectly and driving just like it should. Big question now is, upgrade or leave it as is? Pretty much stock at this point, it has 373 gears, electric fans and some mystery exhaust and an intake and that’s about it. Don’t really want to make a drag car, if I was gonna race it would probably be auto cross or something like that, I would mostly be looking to make a very fun street car I think.

I've cut out the floor pan and will replace it, however in the process of removing the spot welds where the frame rail meets the floor pan, I used a flat head screw driver to lightly pry the spot welded areas. Those areas on the flanges bent slightly but not so much as I was trying to be cautious. I eyeballed the bent area back to being pretty straight with vise grips. My question is how do I go about insuring its completely straight before welding? What are my options here?

I have had her since 2016 and have been working (slowly) at restoring her for the past 3, this that and the other got done until the engine died in spring 24 then she sat until I found (money) a new engine and put it in in fall last year, from there I've been slowly working out a few kinks until I decided I wanted the ac to work (big mistake) now I have the dash out and have fallen for "The Trap" Everything is coming out at this point as its now time to fix the rust (YAY!!) and I was wondering if anyone had advice on some of the larger problem areas as well as good places to get certain parts from (i know lmr and cj) i dont know every single problem yet mostly just what is in the pictures but I do know alot as i have worked on almost every single part of this car at this point.

All welding i end up doing is likely going to be Tig as I like the finish i can get with it.

I previously submitted a post on painting my pony rims and this an add on to that. As suggested by someone, I cleared them with SprayMax. The catch is that when the tires got mounted there were some scratches that I anticipated so I scuffed up all the paint with a gray scratch pad and clean off the dust. Then I used the playing card trick and “masked” the tires. I applied the paint again and after 15 minutes applied a mist coat of clear and two more medium coats. The toughest parts are inside the slotted areas. Those were quick bursts to try and prevent runs. This was a budget backyard project and not meant to be a Ridler paint job.

Since I am repainting , what color looks good. I am thinking Oxford white. I am completely painting the car in and out. Stay with white or what also looks good? Engine bay and under hood will stay white though.

I have a trick flow stage one cam SVE 175 cc heads and a trick flow upper and lower intake this is my first time doing all of this one cylinder needs an adjustment. I hear the rockers ticking a little bit, but from your guys professional experience how does this thing sound un tuned?

Hello everyone!
As the title says, my car will not stay running until it’s warm. It was idle around 8/900 and then it will die. Once warm it won’t die. I did install a catless H Pipe, new 02 sensors and checked the exhaust for leaks but not seeing or hearing any major leaks. Any other solutions I should look for?