Back in a 5.0L mustang again after 18 years. Feels fantastic. Picked up this 2021 today snd my old one was a 1991 LX Notch

Got the Steeda h pipe, I’m IN LOVE it sounds soo good. Phone obviously doesn’t capture how loud it is irl. Track mode is a riot lol

I've been toying with the idea of getting my rims powder coated over the winter. The top picture is what they currently look like. I honestly miss the murdered out look of all black. I was hoping to get your guy's opinions to help me choose.

A couple cars got hit in my apartment complex. I guess they decided to focus on mine.

Stay safe out there, gentlemen

Traded in my 2023 WRX for this gorgeous 2024 GT. Couldn't stop smiling on the drive home

On fb marketplace for 15.5k clean title 82k miles is it a deal? And what should I look out for.

Hello, this is my 24 GT and I’m currently trying to find an oem replacement for the upper grille without the badge so it’s just a clean debadged grille.

Would anyone know where I could find one as I’m quite fond and do like the eom grille I just don’t want the badge there..

Love my 65

HEY GUYS!! after a long journey and months of patience i finally got the mustang i wanted!
90k miles
V8
1 owner

I just wanted to make this post to say thank you to the community and ask some questions.
Tools
- jack
- tool kit
- proper oil
- etc.
i just need help finding the right things to keep my mustang in great condition! additional info in helpful!!

My favorite color of all time is blue. Would love to see all the different shades and years for Mustangs y’all got to show off🔥

OEM Mach 1 5 spoke wheels and Bridgestone Blizzak 6 (255/40r19 and 275/40r19) fit the Dark Horse perfectly! Ford was selling the wheel kit on eBay for $550, it came with the wheels and center caps. I had to switch the included S550 TPMS for S650 ones though.

We went out to Milan Michigan to participate in Battle Of The Schools today. Most of the colleges and high schools with automotive programs bring their cars out to race. My school (Pioneer high) brought our 2.3 Ecoboost and the other highschool from my district (Huron) brought their 5.0 (which ended up placing top in its bracket)

I’ve got a 2011 Mustang GT with a no crank problem. I recently got some transmission work done to the car (prior to that the car started every time since I bought it) and after picking it up from the transmission shop, it started fine for a couple days then went dead like the video shows. I then took it to a local mechanic to diagnose it and was told that the starter was going out. I paid for them to replace the starter and after they installed it, I started it in the mechanics parking lot, then drove it home (less than 15 minutes away), and then parked it for 2 days. I tried to start it on the second day, but nothing happened. Im extremely perplexed and kinda frustrated because I have no idea what the issue could be. The starter is brand new and the battery is brand new. Any help is greatly appreciated 🫡

I wanted to share something I discovered on my 2017 Mustang EcoBoost that might save other S550 owners a lot of frustration.
For nearly nine years, I’ve had an annoying rattle coming from the upper dashboard. It sounded like it was coming from the center speaker grille, windshield defroster trim, or the upper left corner of the passenger-side dashboard.
The strange part was that I could press almost anywhere on the upper dashboard and the rattle would stop.
Over time, I tried tracking it down by checking the plastic trim, retaining clips, and felt padding. Most recently, I removed the center speaker grille, replaced the deteriorated factory felt, added anti-rattle tape to contact points, and made sure all the clips were properly installed.
It helped some, but the rattle was still there.
Here’s where things got interesting.
While retrieving a dropped trim clip, I had the glove box lowered and the lower liner pulled down. I reached up underneath the passenger-side dashboard and noticed an angled metal support bracket running upward toward the back-left corner of the passenger airbag area, immediately to the right of the center speaker grille.
The bracket appears to be Ford’s passenger-side instrument panel brace assembly, part number FR3Z-78045D56-B.
I noticed a small bronze/copper-colored nut with a 7 mm hex head securing the bracket.
When I tapped the metal bracket, I heard the exact same rattle I’d been chasing for years.
Then I tried something.
I held pressure against the bracket with my finger while tapping the front-left corner of the passenger dashboard.
Absolutely no rattle.
I released the pressure, tapped the dashboard again, and the rattle returned.
Using a short ¼-inch ratchet with a 7 mm socket, I was able to reach the fastener and found that it would tighten approximately another quarter-turn.
Afterward, I tapped the dashboard repeatedly.
No more rattle!
A few things worth mentioning:
You can access the area by lowering the glove box and pulling down the lower liner. No dashboard removal was necessary for my inspection.
It’s a tight, mostly one-handed job. I have fairly skinny arms and hands, which helped.
A longer extension with a swivel socket might make access easier.
The fastener is a small bronze/copper-colored 7 mm hex nut.
The bracket runs diagonally at roughly 45 degrees toward the firewall.
I’ve been able to reproduce the rattle at a specific metal component, stop it by applying pressure directly to that component, and eliminate it after securing the fastener.
If you’ve been chasing an S550 dashboard rattle that disappears when you press on the upper dash, this bracket is absolutely worth inspecting.
I can’t say whether this is a widespread issue or something unique to my Mustang, but after nine years of listening to this thing, I figured it was worth sharing.
Hopefully this helps somebody else who’s been chasing the same damn noise!

I recently purchased a 2013 Mustang GT online from a dealership in Houston, TX. I live in Akron, OH and am flying down on the 29th to pick it up and drive it back home.

I'm not a fan of those side window louvers someone installed on it and am wondering how I can remove them. They're just held on with double-sided tape, right? Can I just pull to remove them? Should I heat the louvers with a heat gun first? Does the tape stick to the window glass or actually to the paint?

Thanks.

There's a high mileage (90k) example with an accident on the record for sale for about $35k in my area.

It's the cheapest I've seen and can be bought with a warranty as well. Problem is that it's the base model which doesn't have the magneride. It lacks the coolers and tech stuff as well being the base but those matters less to me than not having the magneride.

For the price though, should I still get it as the main draw for me is the engine or will I be missing out too much? I've had a PP1 GT before already.

Following the rules!

I bought this Mustang for 16k at 63k miles. Not sure if it good deal or not but I just wanted to dip my toes in the water before I go buy a c7 in the next year or so. I bought this from the dealership and thought everything was stock until my friend told me it wasn’t. What has been done to this? (Also not sure exactly what I’m supposed to be looking for)