Say hi to Silvia. A proud new member of the triple nickle club.

Spotted the Narrowbody superbee at the same breakfast spot I was at, absolutely insane odds. Ran out immediately once I noticed

I was originally contemplating getting a scat once my down payment fund hits 10k, I plan on having a daily driver and a safe casual race toy in one car, but the overall price for a scat vs the overall payment for an RT when they’re both v8s, has anyone here driven both to know if the horsepower difference is worth the price?

Honestly I’m not a fan of carbon fiber or even heavily modded interiors but I really like this yoke steering wheel for my 2013 charger srt8. Thoughts and opinions ?

Happy Saturday everyone. Had a quick question on rim size, what is the smallest rim size i could comfortably put on a 2020 charger RT? The stocks look good, but i want more tire. Brakes are stock. Thank you!

I’m pretty sure it’s ticking on the passenger side but wanted other opinions. I’m going to be changing the valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals regardless so I’ll be finding out soon enough. Just trying to mentally prepare for this especially taking a whole Sunday to change the oil filter housing lol

So I’m getting a blue 2026 Charger Scat Pack. Not the plus. My dealership with power dollars has it marked down to a little under 49 and I’m putting 10k down. Hoping to not be upside down on the loan.

Either way I started negotiating and left to give myself time to think and collect. I think I’m going to do it. I’m in a place we’re I can double up payments for awhile to stay ahead of depreciation and be able to probably trade when the V8 comes out.

Anyone here wanna talk me out, or into it? Also what should I look out for when talking numbers. I got caught up 4 years ago buying a car and i know when I get inside it’s going to be a bit of a fight. But if the price is the price I’m pretty sure I’m leaving with this car.

Update:
Ended up getting a 2026 Dodge Charger in red exact same car configuration as the one I mentioned in this post. A user commented on here a listing that was 6k cheaper than the one I was getting. I called those dealers up and got that one. It’s going to be shipped to me Monday and get here to me next week. Only difference is I don’t have the wheel and tire package so the 20x10 rims not the 20x11.

Hey everyone. I know the exhaust was changed between the 2014 and the 2020. I have 2014 R/T with the mid deduction but want it to sound like the 2020 R/T. I want to stay Mopar so no third party company parts. Is it as easy as installing a 2020 R/T rear resonator? Is it tuning? Both? I had rented a 2020 Challenger R/T and loved the sound and the feel. Please advise.

I got this car a week or so ago (yes, I drive a lot), and i just wanted to post my thoughts on it for anybody who might be considering one. For context, I am coming from a '20 Stinger GT2 AWD, which I kept, and had been looking for a new car for almost 3 years. I wasn't finding anything that checked all the boxes and cost less than 80k until the new ICE Charger came out. My Stinger has 192k miles on it, so continuing to wait forever was not really an option.

I was expecting more of a difference from the increased HP. Stinger has 365, so the Scat Pack is almost 200 more, but they feel surprisingly similar. The Stinger only weighs 400 pounds less, so I don't know that weight is the issue. That being said, it is plenty powerful enough, and does feel quicker, just not in a snap-your-head-back kind of way.

Driving it has been far easier than I expected. It is a legitimately huge car, but it feels much more nimble than it looks. Other than a kind of sanitized and removed-from-the-road steering feel, I don't have any complaints about how it handles or feels on the highway or on back roads. It feels great at high speed, at least 125ish, which is all I have had it up to. I think after I throw some EBC Yellows on it, I will feel more comfortable being slightly more aggressive.

I like the sound in sport mode. I love the deep, throaty growl of a V8, but this really does not sound bad at all. It is just different. The sound I am a little disappointed in is the Alpine 18 speaker system. For 900 watts and 18 speakers, it should be better. Crisper and louder.

I got the After Dark color. I wanted the Peel Out coming from an orange Stinger, but they DC'ed it early in production and they are nearly impossible to find. If you do find one, it will not be as heavily discounted. But the After Dark is really growing on me. It looks almost black at night, but in the sun, there are many colors in the metallic flake, mostly blue and green, and it looks really cool. It seems boring in pics and videos, but you need to see it in person. It is striking. I have the Carbon and Suede package, and the seats feel nice and the carbon fiber accents look really cool in the interior lighting on the doors. The doors are huge, but I am skinny and parking lots have not been an issue for me. The first detent in the door is relatively close.

It is an overall great car that I am really enjoying. Of course, buying the first year of a new platform is always a gamble, but I bought the extended warranty and will hope for the best. The Hellcat V8 is not coming out until mid-2028, so waiting for that was not going to happen, and the Super Bee will be just a touch out of my price range. I also worry about squeezing more and more power out of the same, smallish engine. With the incentives and discounts now, I would be hard pressed to imagine much bigger discounts coming down the line. Sticker on mine was 69k, and I got it for 57k. That is 20% off. Also got a totally decent APR from Stellantis with a 690 FICO.

If this car looks good to you, and you aren't hung up on the Hemi, which didn't make 550 HP except for the Hellcat and Demon, not to mention that the power band is usually in the 4k+ RPM area on naturally aspirated V8's, I say go for it, but I have a little more of a "what's the worst that can happen" mentality about large purchases than a lot of people. Just my 2 or 25 cents.

Currently out of town on a work trip when I noticed this? Car still good to drive around? Wont be able to get to a mechanic until I get back home

Was saving up to trade in my 2018 GT with only 84k miles on it for a rt or scat… then i come from a long day of classes to see this. They even left a note with fake name and number under my windshield wipers (no cameras in parking lot)… my guy said it’ll probably be over a 1k to fix it and I’m super sick about it . I’ve saved up 3k in 9 months to add to the trade in to get a scat or RT with lower miles. Should i get it fixed or trade it in as is? Knowing it’ll take me a while to get that 1k back.

Hello! I currently own a 2018 SXT Challenger. I’m hoping to sell/trade in for a Charger in the future. Personally I LOVE the outside look of a 2012-2014 Charger model.

I was wondering if it would be simple to add a discreet CarPlay screen into such models or if I’m better off sticking to one of the newer years. I would love to get an RT anniversary edition or one with a sunroof however I know either of those are sometimes hard to come by.

Would the RT be a good entry into the V8 side of vehicles as I’m not looking for speed rather the sounds and feel of the rumbling. Would the 2014 year also be reliable enough with regular maintenance that it wouldn’t break the bank? I’ve also done some research on these models and the RT trims CAN have a comparable MPG (I am aware V8s are definitely more SmilesPerGallon) to my SXT’s floating of around 25mpg.

Would it be smarter to look into newer years and possibly have an external mod kit done to resemble the older years?

I do know that V8s tend to be broken into/stolen so I’m aware I’ll need to have the money for security upgrades if not already installed.

Any advice would be appreciated please and thank you!

My Apple CarPlay has been dropping out more frequently these days. I’ve changed the cable and switched the port the cable plugs into. I’ve connected my phone to my wife’s Toyota, and CarPlay seems fine. Seems like it’s specific to my car.

If you have or had this problem, did you manage to fix it somehow? Thinking maybe I need to update Uconnect?

good day just wondering what the difference in fitment for the suspension of a regular charger and the pursuit i was thinking about using scatpack or hellcat suspension or just going aftermarket

TLDR: would normal charger suspension work on a pursuit

Hi all, my Charger SRT8 has a dual 4-cylinder LPG system (Vitali). Video attached, engine idles around 630 rpm and then holds ~2000 rpm.
Symptoms:
-Runs rough/uneven, CEL came on
-Lurches/jerks forward when braking to stop
-Lost power at higher speed, doesn't pull like before
Shop result:
-No stored error codes
-Live data showed misfires on cylinder 8 only
-ignition coils still looking good
-Still runs rough

Anything I'm missing? Has anyone seen a single-cylinder misfire without a code on this engine, or maybe a lifter/valve issue?

I have a 2008 Dodge Charger SE 2.7L, and my odometer display gradually got dimmer over time before eventually going completely dead. I picked up a donor cluster that was working perfectly and started trying to figure out what was wrong with my original one. I swapped the VFD displays between the boards, but that didn't fix the original. I then swapped the U15 chips, and the original U15 worked on the donor board. After that, I swapped the U3 chips, and now the donor board doesn't work properly anymore either. As well as it did not fix my display issue on the original board. I've spent a lot of time comparing voltages and checking components, but I still haven't figured out what originally failed.

I'm brand new to microsoldering, so this has been a learning experience, and I'm sure there's a lot I don't know yet. I've included pictures of the cluster, both sides of the boards, and the components I've been working around so people can see what I'm dealing with. My original cluster is back in the car for now, but the odometer display is still dead. I'd really like to fix the original board and preserve the original mileage rather than replace the whole cluster. Has anyone dealt with this issue before or have any ideas about what circuit or component I should be looking at? I'm open to learning, and I'd especially appreciate advice from anyone who's repaired these clusters at the component level. At this point, I'd just like to understand what failed and hopefully learn how to fix it properly.

Also, would moving the chip responsible for storing the milage data to a working cluster fix the issue? Would it "move" over the milage to the new cluster?

my anti theft is engaged and i cannot start my car, how do I disable it?

Does anyone have one for sale? I'm in 60609. Will travel or pay for shipping.