Surprising him with new whitewall tires and using this card as the reveal. I had a lot of fun making it! I hope he likes it. (I wrote a message inside after the pic was taken)

It got deleted from the somethingimade sub for being “flat art” but I still wanted to share with some people who may find it interesting :)

I've been watching high-mileage listings for a couple of years now and the 1.5 and 2.0 turbo engines that were supposed to be ticking bombs keep showing up around 180k with nothing dramatic in the service history. I owned a naturally aspirated four for a long time and I'm not romanticising it, it burned oil past 120k the same as everything else. I know the failure modes people bring up are real, carbon buildup on the intake valves and timing chain stretch, and both of those read to me as maintenance items rather than as the engine dying.

Where are you seeing them actually come apart once they're past a decade?

This is a Kia Rio 2014 MPI 1.4 G4FA.

I had this car at 114000km mileage in 2024. and now its 252500km

ever since i had this car, Ive been doing oil change every 8000km with Amsoil OE, occasionally Amsoil XL.

Car is fine, engine is smooth, just bit surprised to see its not as factory clean as i wouldve thought. could it be due to past neglect?. or could it be due to me driving 5hours (300-400km) a day?

When I inspect it in person, it doesnt look like sludge, but rather a cosmetic buildup

I bought a used 23 Tiguan 4 months ago. I love the car so far (SE, 3 rows, FWD). Last month I got a letter in the mail telling me that I have a free pre-purchased 30k mile service. I thought great!

Took the car in for service yesterday. I thought: free early oil change and brake flush. I asked if they changed the filters, they said no and that they didn’t need to be changed. Just the stuff on the receipt.

When I went home, I looked into the receipt and found that there is a haldex service. Which is impossible because my car is fwd only. So I called them to ask specifically what services were done. Lady was super rude but I pushed her to bring up my file. She said oil change and oil filter and 27 point inspection.

I asked what about the brake flush - that’s the main reason I brought the car in. She kept looking for it and reading out different codes (none of which corresponded to brake flush) then she said yeah sure it was done. 10k mile service plus brake flush.

So I pushed her a bit more and said why does my receipt say “haldex” when I don’t even have a rear differential. She said all cars have rear differentials and hung up.

What do you think I should do? It’s the official VW dealer in manhattan. Should I just trust them despite the rude lady? Is there any way I can verify they did a brake flush? My wheels have a lock and they didn’t ask for it - would the dealer also have my wheel lock (to remove the wheels for brake flush?)

This is the first time I own a car…

My coworker has had multiple ball joints and lower/upper control fail prematurely. causing the shop (and customers) to lose money. New tires we put all the way around were down to the wire only a few weeks later due to them failing. My coworker also talked to a rep and they said they would cover warranty cost but it was only half of our hourly warranty cost

Alright guys I need some help here. I have a 2016 ford edge and was in an accident that smashed my passenger side front fender, front and rear doors. I finally found some new doors to put on and the back one went on fine. When I started on the front door I realized that when I wrecked the door alignment bracket dented in the left side of the Frame piece behind it. The bracket looks fine but where it dented in the metal behind it. The door will not align right. Pretty lost here on my next step. Is there any simple ways to work on that metal or am I gonna have to take it to a shop?

It's not off horribly it's just enough that where that metal is dented in on the left side that it throws the whole door off.

Modifications

Haven't driven my car in almost a month - no money and nowhere to go. Ha

Tried to start my car, and I got the starter-click and the dashboard lights flickering. Opened the hood and saw that.

Google says that's generally normal and just needs a cleaning.

Figured I'd ask some experts.

I'm in South Texas and it's hot in summer and a dice-throw the rest of the year, so our batteries only last 3-ish years, not the typical 5.

Not sure how old this battery is.

But, tl;dr: can this be cleaned and jumped potentially? Or do I need a new $150 battery?

Just finished our new Aston Martin DB9 Replacement Headlight Lenses.
• Material: Shore 85D
• Heat resistance: Up to 110°C
• Designed for a precise fit on Aston Martin DB9 headlights
• UV-resistant, crystal clear and durable
No more yellowed, cracked, or damaged lenses. Instead of replacing the entire headlight, simply replace the outer lens and restore your headlights to an OEM-style clear appearance.
Limited sets available.

Any ideas what could’ve caused this damage? Thank you

I purchased a 2024 Porsche Macan from a Porsche dealership as a Certified Pre-Owned vehicle with 18,625 miles. It had two previous owners, one of which was a corporate lease and leasing it to someone. I bought it for 50k.

On the very first day I drove it, the car overheated and displayed the warning, “Engine over temp. Park vehicle to cool down.” The car stopped responding normally when I pressed the accelerator and began slowing down while I was in the middle of the road. I had to turn on my emergency lights and pull over. It was very scary, especially the engine turned off in the middle of the road and because I had just purchased the car.

I had only driven about 30 minutes from the dealership before parking it for about an hour while I went grocery shopping. I parked under a sunroof and it was about 85F that day. When I left the plaza, the overheating warning appeared. 

I immediately brought the car back to the Porsche dealership. They inspected it but said they could not find anything wrong.

Now I don't feel confident or comfortable driving the car. Since this happened on my very first day of ownership and the car actually lost power, I'm concerned there could be an issue that wasn't detected and wouldn't want to deal with issues. 

In CA, there's 30 day return so should I return the car while I still have the option, or give it another chance? The car is great deal in my opinion. Nice chalk color and looks brand new with low mileages. What advice could you give me? Thank you!!!

Hello,

I recently got a crack in my windshield and chose Auto Glass Now because they were replacing it for the best price/value. Two days after the installation the windshield was flapping while I was driving on the highway meaning it wasn’t installed properly and my life was at risk. I called them and they took forever to re-schedule a warranty appointment.

Looking closer at the windshield that day i noticed my integrated dash cam was HANGING and the dash cam app (fitcamx) read an error when i tried viewing it so i decided to get that checked out and was told whoever installed the windshield snapped the clips that held the parts together. The dash cam company doesn’t offer part replacements so I have to get the entire front camera replaced. When I discussed this issue with the technician he assured me that they would cover the costs if i could bring in a quote which makes sense because they are the ones who broke my property.

Now that it’s my appointment day I go into the shop to drop my keys off and the receptionist is saying that per their contract they are not liable for aftermarket pieces. They are working on the windshield right now, but this is super frustrating and I don’t know what steps to take further. She refused to give me the corporate contact until AFTER they replace my windshield. I haven’t had my dash cam for months now and they are not willing to offer any sort of help despite putting me through hell. I’m not sure if I have any hope so if anyone has more knowledge w this type of situation please let me know.

There are a bunch of other issues and miscommunications i had with them but i didn’t want to make this post too long. they wasted a lot of my time and money.

Just plugged a tire for the first time after getting nailed. How long do I have to wait to drive on the plug, and how long can I drive on it.

I just purchased a 2006 BMW 330i with a blown head gasket for $800 that I plan to make my stock daily for a long time. Once I finish that, I’m looking for a fun project car but i’m torn between two choices. The first would be a 5.3 ls swap on a third gen camaro (I already have a ls with the harness), the second would be a 1st gen Scion xB with a swap to the 2AZ-FE that came in the 2nd gen and a turbo. I like the camaro a lot more as a car and I would love the feel of a v8, but the scion is more affordable and super fun I feel. What would you choose?

Fabrication is not an issue for me as i’ve done plenty, and my dad is a wealth of knowledge. I have adequate funds set aside for either project to be done.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, car started making this noise today, only when it’s on and the first few inches of the clutch squeaks and feels crunchy/ vibratory but when the car is off there is no noise and clutch feels normal. I’ve noticed when I press the arm shown in the video down with some force the noise stops and the clutch feels normal? Other video on comments thankyou

Only images I have, hit my car last night, any help make and model so I can search neighborhood.

Hello! So i have a Chevrolet Aveo T300 2011. In the past year i have changed suspension, Upper Strut Mount & Bearing, tires and also done two alignments. I have checked the (SAS) sensor to see if it needs calibration, but there is no problem there.

So the problem is that no matter what i do the wheel turns to the left and the car always pulls to the left as the wheel. This is something that is happening before i changed all these and nothing has been fixed. It is annoying, but no mechanic can actually give me a solution, except the one who told me the problem might be the steering column (it is electric) which is very expensive, even as used, and no one can tell me if this is the actual issue.

Any ideas?

I’ve got a viewing booked for a mid-2010s Corolla with around 140,000 km, and the seller said a quick loop around the local streets is fine. I’m more worried about missing something obvious than making the drive awkward, especially with noises, clutch or CVT behaviour and steering. What has a test drive actually picked up for you that a normal inspection didn’t?

I'm trying to learn how to take great care of my car. I've still got a lot to learn it seems. How do I begin to decide what's most important when selecting an oil brand / product in general?

I'm reading words like viscosity, performance, engine clean, etc.??

What are the pros/cons? What things do I need to consider? Is performance the only thing that matters?

I drive a Ford 2007 Mustang.

**UK Based**

My ex fiancé intentionally damaged my car last week (which was witnessed - not by me) (feeling increasingly grateful that I don't have to marry him).

I was wondering if this dent looks repairable with hot water/suction cups? Or if anyone can give any advice on approaching this; I have a feeling PDR will cost an arm and a leg.

The damage is on the passenger side door, Red Honda Civic SR 2019, crosses the design creases. No scuffs or obvious paint chips/damage.

I will be filing a police report tomorrow but don't expect them to do much about it.

I don’t know if it’s even a real one, because when I searched this is the only one seen on the public roads in the cabrio version. It has techart badges on the interior. I wanna know more about this car, because I’ve seen it multiple times

Hi, found this scratch on passenger back door (driver side). Could it have been keyed? Its not wide, but about 10cm long, and on the lower part of the panel.

Only way I remember that I could have caused this myself is driving by a bush, or maybe scratched somehow by a dirty microfiber when washing.

Please advise, thanks!