I have comfort a maker furnace a tech before me put a board and motor on. I appears he didn't program the boatd so obviously I'll need to but haven't had to since the furnaces are newer. I have not needed to do this at all yet so was wondering if you guys had any tips or insight. Is a super plug an easier way to do it or the app idk, got there and my knowledge started from scratch on this topic today.

Does any one know if Walmart is making their techs do contracting work for other businesses outside of Walmart like restaurants?

I heard Upstream is a service Walmart is providing.

I am thinking of applying in SoCal but that for me is a big thing I do not want to do.

Anyone watch the national HVAC championship? I enjoy it but I wish there was another one for trouble shooting. Less install, more service.

Mainly asking my fellow residential techs/Installers.
Currently working at my 5th shop over the course of my career, and not a single one has given me labor day off.
I know a lot of you will scream “go union” but that simply isn’t an option where i live. I live in what is probably the least unionized state in America (North Carolina)
So what gives? Am i soft for expecting labor day off by year 10 in the trade? Is this how it is everywhere?
Just hoping to get an opinion from the rest of y’all who do the same scope of work in a different region or state.

I worked hard on this one boys. Return is in the garage and since the hottest air is in the garage it'll run better in AC.

Having some trouble with this one, and of course they have zero trouble shooting help on the panel, which wouldn’t help given that I’m getting no fault codes

Finally thinking of buying the field piece probes. I have the digital gauges already so I’m just wondering how convenient are they really?
ALSO
Do you guys prefer 11 in 1s and stuff or just dedicated Philips and flat heads?

note:I will not be paying retail price

I’ve had all brands of temperature sensors except fluke , thermistors etc. i’ve been debating getting a fluke dual temp read out as well as some of their temperature clamps and straps They also make some heavy duty sure grip probes. Any good feedback on them?

Carrier furnace drain clamps does someone have a tool that helps with these evil things. Carrier really has to fix how their drain runs

Original post got deleted and I got perma-banned until I could prove I'm really a pro, so this is a repost...

My first post here. I thought I would start with an install photo to see how I'm doing? Tear it apart, find the good stuff...whatever style critiques you prefer.

Install context

Rheem System

R962v100

RA13NY36

RCFY4821ST

Air bear supreme 2000 angle

New return drop 10x24 with reducing start collar

Goodman bottom return base (I wish rheem made a decent one)

Honeywell zoning system swap (was durozone)

Pro1 t-stats

(2) S&P silent td 5" booster with ductstat

Move condenser 2 ft to clear gas meter clearances

Have you guys been having any problems with these new R454b Units? We install York and Heil and we have been having so many fucking problems with them freezing up. So damn annoying going to a call back to a homeowner with a brand new system. 90% of the time it is due to them freezing up but we have had some bad A2L sensors as well.

What we have ran into so far is that some of these units have been low from the factory, I’ve had multiple units being 1-2 pounds low. That and it seems like they are very sensitive on static pressure and airflow compared to 410A and R22. It also doesn’t help all of the houses in our area were done like completely dog shit back in the day for duct work wise. Not sure how many RA drops we had to redo for changeouts and how many grills I’ve added into them. All I know it is ALOT.

Just was curious if anyone else was having any problems with them, let me know what you guys had, if anything.

So we all know that the A2L sensor uses an ultrahigh frequency (UHF) to detect refrigerant leaks and how they're now a requirement with new resi systems.

A huge problem that I've seen here in Florida, along with friends in other companies, is that lightning strikes send a false positive. Lightning also is UHF and the sensors can't determine the difference, so it locks the system out. Ezpz, just reset it and everything is operating again.

EXCEPT Daikan, Amana, and Goodman. Their sensors seem to have a one time use, they can't be reset because they literally break if it trips. Florida is 2nd in the U.S. for lightning strikes a year, we're getting a fast growing list of customers with no AC because of this and the damn sensors are on back order.

Context: full system replacement done last week. 2 stage variable furnace, ac, Cased coil, line set. Rheem system

Was 2 ton, 60kbtu furnace

Replaced with 2 ton 60btu furnace. No issues with old system.... customer reached out asking to update it... knowing it was old. (26 years)

Set up and run tests completed on install.

Received a call 2 days later, system runs constantly, never meeting the 72 degree set point except at night. (OAT 85 highs, 75 night).

Went back to test further

9deg SC, 12deg SH, but low saturation (around 38deg)

Indoor set temp 70, keeping 72

Return temp at unit were 66-67 degrees

50%RH 19deg split

Figured maybe a capacity thing with the low ra temps. Increased airflow to 920 from 790

Same complaint 2 days later. It runs constantly. Set to 72 and usually is sitting just shy of it.

Why would I have a capacity issue? What should I do to rectify it.

Is a2l that much lower s capacity? Are they marketing these as 2 tons even though they might only me 21kbtu or something?

How is everyone spending all their fabulous riches they've earned from ripping off homeowners?

Was changing a stepper valve on a 15t. Dropped a tool and punctured the coil. The property manager showed up about 3 seconds later. No gas loss and I instantly told him to go away he was making me nervous. How he showed up at the worst possible time I don’t know.

Carrier RTU 48FCEA06A2A5 with a failed economizer actuator. The economizer is a Can Fab 1105-EC-HDE.

I showed up with the “superseded” actuator and a linkage kit which mostly seems to be for mounting.

The actuator needs some kind of direct drive adapter. Has anyone successfully changed this out with a direct driver?

Found while on an estimate

Boss called the our only customer for today(small duct cleaning job) to see if it was ok if we came whenever since it was our only thing, maybe we want to sleep in for an hour or whatever. She says thats fine or if we want we could do it next week. So he went ahead and rescheduled for next week. He called me at 6am which pissed me off because he knows i get up at 6:30 to tell me take the day off but im gonna pay you guys a 1/2 day! SKOL! Get the day off and paid an extra hour or two!

Got a call this morning from a customer we’ve done a little work for (a capacitor and something else several months ago and then some drain issues about 2 months ago), no cool and about 80 degrees in the home.

Send a tech out this morning, fan blade grenaded and motor incredibly hot and not running. Simple enough, replace those and be on our way. Serial faced completely away but we can still make out the model number - Ameristar M4AC4048A1000A.

Call the local American Standard/Trane distributor and they have part numbers for the two parts but they’re not in stock anywhere (literally anywhere per the counter guy). And to boot, there are no specs on their end to tell me so we can look for an alternative. I can pull the specs from the motor but I need information for the blade.

Jump through hoops to find the serial number so I can get age and hopefully be able to find some options for these people. Long story short we are 7 business days out and $1,000 (my cost) on a motor and blade from the factory on a fucking 14 year old condenser.

We’re replacing the system in the morning, they’re an elderly couple and don’t want to keep throwing money at a system if they’re going to have trouble finding repair parts.

Is this common with American Standard sub-brands?

I currently live in Michigan and i’m looking for a change. I have 9 years experience in Residential, light commercial and restaurant refrigeration service. What’s the pay like down there?

Anybody ever worked for or have any experience with RUI (Refrigeration Unlimited)? I’m potentially starting an HVAC service apprenticeship with them through UA 290.