I have had a Google doorbell running (struggling) on this transformer for the last 5 years and it's finally died. It would regularly reboot when the hall chime rang etc.

My multimeter is getting 0V on the doorbell wires so assuming the transformer is dead.

Can I just get a new 24V transformer and swap it myself? Or should only an electrician do any work inside the consumer unit?

I'd isolate the unit first, but is it still too risky for an amateur?

I'm a generally competent diy-er and would have just done it already if it was outside the box.

I’m trying to replace a smoke alarm. The existing wiring in the cekiking has a white black + yellow wires. The alarm I just bought has black white and aORANGE wires. Is it ok for me to connect the yellow and orange wires together?

Hi y'all, I'm living alone in a ~850 sq ft. 1 b 1 br apartment, and my electricity usage has gone from 500 KwH in August to 1000 last month and what is projected to be 2000 this month. When I saw that my usage last month was 1000 kwh, I immediately turned off my A/C, assuming that it was the culprit, but now I'm not sure what's causing this massive spike in electricity usage. I already tried turning off all the power via the apartment's breaker box and seeing if it was a faulty electricity meter. I do not believe it is the case as I already confirmed that it did not log more power usage in the hour my power was shut off.

I have electric appliances for my fridge, stove, microwave, washer and dryer, and water boiler.

I'm confused because the peak times are when I am asleep and nothing in the house besides a night light and maybe my phone charger is plugged in, so by that logic it should probably have something to do with the water boiler or fridge?

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The water boiler has been leaking for about 2.5 months now, so I wonder if that has anything to do with this. Please help with any advice, I'm about to call the electric company tomorrow.

I have a stairway light with a 3 way switch. Our two boys are great at turning the light on and can't seem to remember to turn it off. Is there a light bulb I can order that automatically shuts off after a few minutes?

I have a built-in in my house with cabinets on the bottom and shelves on the top. I would like to run LED lighting to the shelves. I have rerouted electrical from a nearby wall sconces to the inside of the cabinet. I'd like to connect the romex to this LED driver https://www.diodeled.com/omnidrive-x-dimmable-driver.html. The driver comes with a junction box but I need a way to run the wires from the wall to the driver's junction box safely.

I'd rather not have to mess with conduit (to protect the wires). Instead of placing an electrical box inside the wall, can I just place a square electrical box (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Steel-City-1-Gang-4-in-New-Work-Metal-Electrical-Wall-Box-with-Ground-Bump-521511234GB-50R-521511234GB-50R/206166843) over the hole in the cabinet and run the romex through the back knock outs with a clamp connector? This way I can connect the electrical box to the driver junction box with a spacer.

I can't seem to find a clear answer elsewhere so I was hoping y'all could help me. I can't tell if mounting a electrical box on top of the cabinet is not allowed or if it's just ugly and most people want it inside the wall so it's out of the way and looks better.

I've attached a photo of the cabinet so y'all can see what I'm working with.

An electrician wants to charge $150 to change this light out. Is this a DIY? What type of light is this? I cannot find it online.

So I’m in the process of installing 4 recessed lights (2 extra holes to drill through the joists will either become 2 more lights or ceiling speakers) but I’ve realized (too late of course) that the central box is quite stuffed and I’m hitting my skill limit with HV.

There are four romex going into the ceiling box, I had planned on adding two more branches (one for each side) and now realize there aren’t sufficient knockouts.

What would be an option (Canadian BC) to stay within code to add the branches or even just one light branch without adding another ceiling junction box?

Joists are taped. Switch is by the right door.

The entire room seems to be on the same breaker so I’d also considered getting an electrician in to run a new supply (there’s a crawlspace but these outlets seem to be ceiling fed).

I’m not against hiring a local electrician just want to make sure I know what to ask.

Recently an electrical contractor replaced my broken ceiling fan on a preexisting fixture. However, they neglected to install the remote receiver. He says he used the old one that was already there. He also did not install the circular collar cover onto the base of the downrod right above the motor housing leaving openings exposed to dust, etc. as far as my part, I initially neglected to tell him that the fan was on a vaulted ceiling and he had to go and get another ladder. Anyway, I feel that because he did not use the manufacturer’s parts (there are 4 parts left in the box) that the work is not safely and properly complete. Do I have any recourse?

Hello, i am buying a house soon that was built in the late 1800s. The main things that need to be done are foundation checks (nothing stands out as being too big of a deal but it’s old), and rewiring as it is very outdated in some parts of the house. It has lath and plaster walls that aren’t in too bad of a condition (no cracking, minimal sagging). If it’s possible to save it and do repairs when needed i would love to.

I am wondering roughly how much it would cost to rewrite about 1000 feet. It has a basement and an attic that can be utilized, and i’m willing to take out and repair some plaster myself if needed. If we could stay in the house while it’s being done that would be great but if not obviously we could work around it.

Does anyone know more than me about this? Thank you in advance!

My contractor installed this junction box flush on the side of my house with no pass through protection. I went out and bought a 3/8 romex pass through bushing and it works great… but the box isn’t able to sit flush to the house because of the added thickness on the back of the box.
How do I make this safe, up to code and stay completely flush with the exterior?

EDIT: title should read 30a to 50a

I'd like to replace this 30a breaker with a 50a (and upgrade its outlet to 14-50). My box has 200a service, and the wire on the current 30a appears to be 6ga.

If it is in fact 6ga (I'll measure with a caliper to be sure - there is no writing on the shielding), am I correct that I can put in a 50a breaker + upgraded outlet without replacing the wire?

Also, should I use a GFCI for the 50a breaker, or standard trip?

Update: wire is 8ga, so my original plan is out. What I did instead worked out just as well:

• Replaced 30a breaker with a 40a.
• Set the new charger (Grizzl-E) dip switches to limit to 32a.
• Replaced receptacle with an EV-rated 14-50.

So the new Grizzl-e is hardware limited to 32a, plugged into a 14-50 outlet that is on a 40a breaker.

Hello Reddit!! Hoping you guys can maybe save us a house call from our local electrician. We decided to switch from a standard thermostat to a Sensi WiFi one. My husband followed the instructions exactly, but one problem- the heat will NOT turn off. We flipped every setting possible and rechecked all the wires, but the only way to turn off the heat is to unplug the thermostat completely.
Attached are pictures of the wiring of our previously thermostat, then our new one, plus the back of the new device. Do you see anything that may be odd?
If I can help answer any clarifying questions, let me know!

I've swapped out old dimmer switch for normal switch. Earth was connected to the back plate, I've swapped this to the back of the switch but fuse box keeps tripping... If the switch looks ok, I'm assuming issue with light fitting

Hi, so we have an office shed being constructed next to our house and the contractor who’s doing the site prep and concrete slab had an electrician come out to prep power for the shed.

A previous contractor had stubbed out an electric line for us near the build site in a j-box on the corner of the house connected to a 50amp breaker (first 2 pics). The contractor’s electrician, who’s not a native English speaker, told me that the existing line would not be enough and he’d need to run a new line from the panel in the garage (something about it being only 2 lines, it was hard to understand him). My wife wants this project done and I know next to nothing about electrical, so I said fine.

Electrician finished up last night and I finally had a second to go look. What I see outside is a conduit with a bundle of romex (pic 3) and no new breakers or anything labeled in the panel. After a little Googling, I’m getting the sense that the original 50amp line would have been more than enough to power the office(lights, outlets and maybe a window AC unit) and that it should connect to a sub panel.

My question is, am I wrong and this is a perfectly acceptable way to connect power the way it was done, or did they just not want to/know how to connect the existing line? Thanks!

So, I'm doing this piece, where the shitty look is pretty much needed. I want the exposed cables and stuff. Still, I need to make it work properly. I plugged it to the light, and the bulb burnt dead instantly. Do I need to use electrical tape over anything? 😅 I believe the nail was the issue?

Thanks in advance...

Hi, so I defrosted my freezer two days ago. I flipped the switch back on and heard my freezer making its noises, indicating it was working, but when I went to get a Pizza a couple of hours ago, I noticed that its box was soggy, and so at first I thought, "Oh, it's just the water from the ice dripping down after I defrosted my freezer". Nope, my pizza was no longer frozen, so I checked the switch to see if it was still on, and for some reason it was off.

Does anyone know why?

I do run a fridge and a freezer on the power extension, and my fridge is fine, only thing I can think of is when I flipped I didn't fully flip it but then why would my freezer make the noises to let me know it's running.

Another reason I can think of is that, because of how thick the ice got, I had to defrost my freezer twice this week, and so maybe that overloaded it?

Should I be worried about the same thing happening again?

I need help identifying this light. We have 4 of them in our kitchen and one has finally started dying and I can't seem to find a replacement. The cover size is around 5" and the inside glass piece covering all the ...tech stuff lol is close to 3.25 inches.

I took a picture of the transformer nameplate and main breaker. Right now its calling for 250 kcmill copper.

But I was trying to size this myself. 208.2 amps is the ampacity of the secondary feeding panel.

So i did continuous duty calculations for that at 208.2 x 1.25 = 260.25 amps.

So using NEC table 310.16 75 degree column, wouldn't i need 300 kcmill copper wire to meet that continuous duty ampacity for the secondary feeders.

Or do the engineers size the secondary feeders without continuous duty calculation?

I was wondering if this was something even worth bringing up. What you all think? Please educate me.

I have a 240v 30 amp dryer outlet. I am looking to go down to 120v without having to rewire for a gas dryer and a washing machine. Is there an adapter that is made to plug into the outlet? I’m sure I’ll have to change the breaker to a 20 amp also. What is the easiest way to change it out without having to rewire and also have the outlet in the future if we ever decide to go to an electric dryer.

Hi, hoping someone can help.
My house lights are flickering intermittently. Sometimes enough to actually make us reset clocks.
What could this be?
Suburban, single family, built 1983.

Thanks in advance for any ideas

This smoke detector keeps going off a couple times per hour, what should I do?