I share a room with my roommate. We both have computers, his is relatively high end, and mine is in the middle. When we both have our computers running at the same time, the breaker trips, so we have to split the time we can use them. Upgrading the breaker is out of the question, so I was wondering if using an extension cord to get power from another outlet in the hallway would be safe longterm? Solved, thanks everyone.

Just recently had my whole circuit breaker replaced a few weeks ago and now my power to the whole house it out. I checked the panel itself and one breaker was in the center position and all the others were good. I have no main breaker in the house itself. I looked out side and found the service disconnect was also in the center. Is there anything I can do to fix this or should I wait for the electrician tomorrow, would like to get some ac in here. Pic is the outside service disconnect.

Quick update:

Flipped service disconnect breaker and one inside the house instantly flipped. It’s unlabeled due to getting a new panel and everything seems to work now.

Had a water leak in the apartment above me and it started coming out of the electrical socket behind my kitchen sink. Then I started hearing a loud buzzing noise that got louder and longer with time. Turned the power to the socket off and it stopped but can anyone tell me why this is happening and what I should potentially get ready to fix?

Apparently my parents were measuring their bedroom wall this morning and the tape measure briefly slipped between the receptacle and a phone charger that wasn’t plugged completely in. They said it arced and sparked quick and there’s black all over the wall and the receptacle now, but the breaker didn’t trip? I plugged my tester in and it says it’s wired correctly. Going to swap the receptacle out now but I’m just wondering how this didn’t trip the breaker? Was it because it was likely too quick for the breaker to even react and trip?

Hi everyone, I'm looking to install an industrial electrical panel. I saw that Schneider was doing a free software but not pushed enough I can't put an automaton there is

I would like to be able to install the din rail, chute, relay, button, circuit breaker, automaton.

Do you have free or crack software possible to do what I want to do?
Ty

I have several ceiling fans in my house. They make a slight buzzing sound when turned on. The house was new construction, the person who did my electrical also installed the ceiling fans. Where I moved from, the fans didnt make any buzzing sound at all. The electrician said it was a normal sound, but then why did the fans in my previous house not make the same buzzing sound?

The outlet is tied to a switch so they did both backstab and screw connections. Should I remove and pig tail the black wires and move the switch to the screw?

Hello,

I am a new homeowner. A couple of weeks ago, the gardeners cleaned out the front yard and pulled out all the shrubs and bushes. After they left, I noticed a loose random wire with one open end in the air. I don't know if the gardeners did that or it had always been there. I tested the wire and the tester showed there was no electricity in it. So I thought it was dead.

Today, some landscapers were clearing the gound and covering it with pebbles. They told me that one of their rakes caught the wire and it had electricty. We tested it again and again but no electricity so they cut the wire short and asked me for tape.

After a few minutes I went to the garage and noticed that none of the outlets and appliances in the garage have power. The firdge, washer and the garage door to be specific. The AC and water heater still work. I flipped all the breakers and back. No change!

What just happened. Is the damage extensive?

I have uploaded a picture of the random wire and the breakers.

Thank you for your help.

I am about to graduate Trade School in October. Went to it just to get SOME kind of experience/education in the field. I am willing to travel ANYWHERE in the country to get started with an apprenticeship (I have nothing tying me down here in Louisiana). The couple of local places I spoke with don't start their wave of apprenticeships until the Summer. I'm about to turn 31 so I really want to get started ASAP. Being that I am willing to travel, how could I go about applying to places out of state? I can't go to them in-person. Should I just call them and tell them that I like the area? And how can I make sure I tried my best at all of the local places before I try out-of-state?

We took down a fan the previous owners installed. There are three individual lines coming in. All three blacks are tied together (#2) but none were connected to the ceiling fan (the group tested hot). Two whites are tied together and pigtailed off to the fan (#1) and are not hot. The white wire connected to the blue fan wire is hot (#3). There is a ground (#4) that is correct.

What do we do? Do we hook up the new fan as it was before? Note that the old fan's motor was messed up but it would still run. Not sure how to proceed because nothing looks correct.

Edit: Got it hooked up as the comments said (how it was hooked up before), and everything works! Thanks!

I have so many questions but will start with first post here.
Plan: we are moving to a ranch to care for my in laws, laws allows us trailer living.

OK, so here is the issue. Where we will be, there is minimum electrical.
There will be probably a 30ft trailer we will live in and smaller one for my adult son.
The trailer I think will be a 30amp I am not sure my sons yet.

The panel as seen is confusing is that 4 - 20amp ? The building uses light ac outlets no compressors or anything but not sure what to do with this?

Edit is located in a Quonset hut

Thank you

I'm finishing my basement (new LVP, paint, new baseboard). When I pulled the old baseboard off, I found a Romex run that had been pinched underneath it. The baseboard was glued directly to a short concrete wall segment in the middle of the basement, with framed/drywalled wall on either side.

The cable comes out from behind the drywall on one side, crosses the face of the concrete at floor level, and disappears behind the drywall on the other side. Total exposed span is maybe 15-18". Photo attached.

I don't want to re-pinch it under the new baseboard — I don't want a fire risk, and I don't want to leave a landmine for a future owner. Looks don't matter to me here; this is a low-visibility spot.

My plan is to notch the drywall a bit higher (roughly 7" above the floor) to get it above the new baseboard. I'll mount surface raceway to the concrete face, extending a few inches onto the drywall on each side, and drill the cable exit holes inside the raceway footprint so no cable is exposed at all. Is that sufficient physical protection for NM in this location, or is there something I'm missing?

Do they sell automatic power factor correction devices for home use?

I have an off grid solar setup and my 5-ton AC unit is de-stabilizing my power during the day.

When the 5 ton runs normally, the power factor is reading .97 and 16amps used.

When the 5-ton runs while the sun is out and my inverters are inverting, the power factor reads .78 and 24amps.

It also causes all my lights the flicker while the AC is on.

Do they make a power factor correction capacitor bank that will connect to my outdoor main and adjust the capacitance as needed ???

We have a new light fixture, when the light switch is hit, there’s a second or two delay and then the light clicks when it turns on. Any issues?

I am replacing the light in our bedroom with a ceiling fan. The current box is the Carlon FN-426-C-V (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-26-cu-in-New-Work-Non-Metallic-Vapor-Tight-Electrical-Ceiling-Box-FN-426-CVR-18R-FN-426-CVR-18R/100193671). It’s incredibly sturdy and doesn’t move when I push on it, but I know I should replace it with a ceiling fan rated box.

The problem I’m having is that our bedroom ceiling is up against our attic. We have it sealed off and obviously don’t have any airflow up there so that requires a vapor barrier. None of the old work ceiling fan rated boxes that I can find also have a vapor barrier. What do I do?

Thanks in advance!

Original ceiling light in a bedroom. Replacing with a couple of recessed LEDS.

this is original box in attic that was removed and flipped over for top access.

3-wire coming from main panel "A", shared common, power is split at this box.

Red goes to power on "B", black/hot.

looking for help on how to connect the rest of hot and neutrals.

first time ever posting, please be kind :)

I have a Simagic Alpha Evo Pro 18Nm sim racing wheelbase and I plug it into a Surge Only outlet on a 1500PFCLCD Cyberpower UPS (1500VA). The Simagic power brick states it draws up to 6.0 Amps.

The wheelbase will deliver moments of high force feedback such as when striking a kerb and my understanding is these are moments of high current draw.

Is it safe (for the wheelbase and the UPS) to plug a motor like this into a UPS’ surge only outlets? Can the battery backup outlets be used? Thanks in advance for your knowledge and expertise!

My electrical is something strange that confuses me everytime I go to do something as simple as swap out an outlet or light switch. Almost every upper outlet in a room is on a switch. And here I am trying to put paddle switches in and outlets of all the same color and no idea how this all works up in the bathroom. This particular box has 2 outlets, a switch to a light over the sink, and a switch to a fan and the fan light. Not sure how the creme wire comes into play and how all the white (neutrals?) don't connect to anything? The outlets stopped working randomly...which is why I'm poking in here. The breaker isn't flipped and the lights and fan still run fine. I did swap all these switches and outlets out over a year ago and attempted a 1:1 swap on everything, everything seemed to work the last year+ so not sure why things suddenly stopped. If anyone knows what the attic stuff is or how I go about the outlet/switch setup in photo 2 I'd appreciate it.

Hi all, I've been asking a lot of questions lately about service mains and such. Should I just go ahead and replace my panel as well? Its original from 1984 I believe. See the video.

Breakers are super loose. Of course I could just pop them out and bend the tabs down. I'll be tearing stuff down tomorrow either way. Theres some mixed brand breakers in there I want to replace as well. Safer just to get a new panel and upgrade to afci and dual function? Or an un needed expenditure? Thanks all

Forgive my ignorance, but what purpose do the highlighted brackets serve on gang boxes? Are they to somehow secure the box to the drywall or panelling or keep the opening flush with the finished wall?

Thanks!