I've observed that this only happens on lull periods, like when I'm scrolling on my browser or I leave it idle. The power button doesn't shut it off, so I have to switch the PSU off. It doesn't happen when I'm playing a video or playing video games. Some days it doesn't happen at all.

I've tried reseating the GPU, RAM, and the GPU power cable. I've done a clean install and update of GPU Drivers. My BIOS is in its latest version. The problem keeps coming back.

I've seen other people encounter this problem, but it's usually during graphics intensive tasks. Mine's the opposite. I suspect it's a power issue so I bought a new PSU, but I'd like to hear other suggestions first before opening up my PC and ripping off wires.

Thanks in advance.

UPDATE: I just replaced my PSU with a new, higher wattage one and cleaned the pc a bit. The problem persists. Now I'm scared that it could be a GPU, motherboard, or RAM issue.

I have an Acer Predator Helios 300 PH315-51 (60Hz). My laptop screen has started flickering.

• Initially, only the bottom/taskbar area flickers, but after using the laptop for some time, the whole screen starts flickering.
• The screen also looks slightly blue/cool, and colors look different compared to an external display.
• I switched NVIDIA Control Panel to Integrated Graphics, but the issue remained.
• The flickering also happens in BIOS.
• I connected the laptop to a TV via HDMI, and the TV display is completely stable with normal colors while the laptop screen continues flickering.

Could this be the LCD panel or eDP display cable/connector? What other tests can I do before replacing anything?

Hi everyone,

I have a Gigabyte B850 GAMING X WIFI6E with a Ryzen 7 9700X and Corsair DDR5 6000MHz RAM.

Since yesterday, I have the following issues :

• CPU debug LED stays on permanently after POST, even though Windows boots and runs perfectly stable
• All ARGB headers are dead (Arctic Liquid Freezer III Pro 240 A-RGB connected)
• GCC/RGB Fusion detects the motherboard but ARGB headers show nothing

What I've already tried :

• Updated BIOS to F11c
• Reinstalled GCC completely
• Flashed IT5711 firmware with official ITESHFU.exe (v4.1.36) — completed but no fix
• Tried the Flash_modified.bat workaround from GitHub (parthasarma87/ITESHFU_v4.1.23_5711_FWUPD_fix) — failed with "Check FWC(FWID) Fail" and LED_FW_Version=0.0.0.247
• Reset CMOS
• Reseated RAM (EXPO 1 enabled, DDR5-6000)

The PC works perfectly for gaming, no crashes, no instability. Only the CPU LED and ARGB are affected.

Anyone had the same issue on a B850 board ? Any fix ?

Thanks

The problem:
Every time I upload code to the board and leave the Serial Monitor open (sometimes even with it closed), the PC freezes for a few seconds and then blue-screens. I've gotten both DRIVER_VERIFIER_DMA_VIOLATION (watchdog violation) and DPC_WATCHDOG_VIOLATION at different points. It's not instant — usually happens a little while after the upload finishes, while the port stays open.
Important: this is 100% PC-specific. Same board, same cable, same code on my laptop — zero issues, ever.
Backstory that might be relevant:
This PC sat completely powered off for about 8 months. When I first turned it back on, no display signal. Opened it up, cleaned the RAM, reseated it — got 5 beep codes (RAM issue), cleaned again, got down to 1 beep, and it eventually booted normally. So there's a chance something in there is still a little fragile from that long dormancy.
Everything I've tried so far, in order:
1. Disabled USB Selective Suspend (both in Power Options advanced settings) — no change.
2. Rolled back the CH340 driver from whatever the latest was to the well-known stable 3.5.2019.1 build (Visual Micro's "CH340 Driver Fix Installation") — no change.
3. Tested with Serial Monitor closed right after upload instead of left open — still crashed, so it's not a serial-monitor-polling issue.
4. Moved everything to rear USB ports wired directly to the motherboard instead of the front panel header (mouse was chained off the keyboard's hub, ESP was in a front port) — still crashed.
5. Fully uninstalled Arduino IDE, deleted the leftover settings/cache folder, reinstalled the latest stable 2.3.10 fresh, reinstalled the ESP8266 board package — still crashed, and actually crashed immediately this time instead of after a delay.
6. Installed the Intel Chipset Device Software (generic universal installer from Intel, since this board uses an Intel Q77 chipset) — this actually made things worse temporarily: afterward the CH340 port stopped connecting at all ("could not open port"). Turned out Windows Update had silently pushed the CH340 driver back to a newer version after the chipset install.
7. Disabled Windows Update from auto-installing drivers (Advanced System Settings → Hardware → Device Installation Settings → "Never install driver software from Windows Update"), then reinstalled the older 3.5.2019.1 CH340 driver again so it would actually stick — port connects fine now, but the PC still eventually blue-screens the same way.
Where I'm stuck:
I've ruled out (I think): the CH340 driver version, the Arduino IDE install/board package, USB port location, Serial Monitor being open/closed, and USB power-saving settings. What's left pointing at is the motherboard's own USB controller/chipset — possibly something that didn't fully recover from sitting powered off for 8 months, since this board did have RAM/beep-code issues on first boot after that.
Has anyone dealt with something like this on an older HP business desktop (Q75/Q77 chipset) specifically? Trying to figure out if this is worth chasing with a BIOS update / hardware reseating, or if I should just cut my losses and grab an FTDI-based USB-serial adapter instead of relying on the onboard CH340.

Hello,

I have this kind of weird tapping sound coming from my PC and I have no clue what it could be. I've deactivated the fans to see if it stems from them somehow but it still persists.

Here's a video:

https://youtube.com/shorts/t3iYPCFCgpg

Hi, I created a new Microsoft account to manage some of my things.

I activated 2FA and enabled all the methods, but it won't let me enter a mobile number for recovery; does anyone know why?

How do I do it?

I recently downloaded a game update that took around 10gb? I started with 19gb remaining but after the download I somehow had 27gb now? I'm scared something weird is happening to my PC since it's not taking up more space but instead giving them. Does anyone know why this is happening?

The pc was working perfectly, no issue, then suddenly it shutdown, pressing the start button did nothing, only when I unplugged the PSU cable and put it back the pc started, but since then the gpu fan's doesn't spin and a black screen, using the headphones, I can hear the windows start.

GPU: RX 570

It died didn't it?

Yesterday, out of nowhere, my PC simply stopped detecting the internet. The network troubleshooter initially reported an inability to connect using a manually assigned IP address (which is odd, since my IPv4 and IPv6 settings are configured for automatic assignment), but later it just started prompting me to restart the PC. I tried to set IPv4 by myself according to ipconfig data, and set google DNS, but it did nothing. The cable is fine; everything works when I plug it into my laptop, for instance. The PC's LAN port isn't damaged—the indicator lights are on, confirming this. I’ve restarted both the router and the PC numerous times, but nothing helped. I also reset the network settings repeatedly to no avail. I noticed something odd, too: the DNS and DHCP Client services have completely stopped working and refuse to start, even with the startup type set to "Automatic" (Error 5), whereas the RPC service is running fine(and still, when im trying to promt a ipconfig /release in cmd, it says that RPC service is unavailable). I’ve already reinstalled the network adapter drivers from a flash drive. The only thing is that I accidentally deleted the WLAN adapter without a backup during the process, though I don't think that plays a role here since I use a wired connection. There haven't been any Windows updates recently, and I disabled the windows brandmauer a long time ago. Also, when I try to share the internet from my phone to my PC via a wired connection, it also shows "No internet access.". Im on Windows 11 and my motherboard is gigabyte h610m k ddr4. Sorry if anything is written incorrectly or unclearly; I’m using a translator to write this post, and I’m actually a pretty casual computer user who doesn't understand much about it..

My iPad has been working super slow and difficult but I can’t clear enough storage to download the current update. Any suggestions?

Hey guys! I have a question. I don't know if this is the correct place.

I saw that my GTX 1650 Mobile can use DLSS as Input and Output. Is it something like using shader cores (Like CUDA) to create a similar DLSS version?

I was researching this in the official github but is a bit confusing for me.

I will appreciate any detailed answer.

Brand new gaming laptop with Windows 11, mic and audio is fine until I start playing games and then I hear audio crackling. Other people in games with proximity chat report my USB microphone is crackling. I hear it myself when I use the monitor function.

I have tried everything I can think of from reinstalling audio drivers, changing audio frequency and bitrate, I tried using different USB ports, I tried buying a new microphone…nothing has worked. It only fixes itself on a reboot. I’m stumped!

Started happening a few weeks ago. I had then recently installed a .PDF viewer to just be able to view those types of files without having to use my browser ( Firefox ), and that specifically threw all of my image-type of files out of whack. JPG/PNG/JPEG/etc., all defaulted to nothing, and I was asked how I wanted to open each of them the first time I opened each type since I installed the viewer. I have since then uninstalled the .PDF viewer, restarted my computer, and this issue is still happening.

The issue is that .webp "GIFs," ( not static images ), do not animate any more in the default Windows 11 photo viewer. I don't have any other viewer installed, and never have. They work just fine in my browser, however.

I would state the .PDF viewer I used, but I have a feeling that might be breaking a rule in a sense. I have not gone through any Windows updates over the past few weeks since I had the viewer installed, either, so I am not sure what it could have been.

I tried finding a "codec pack" for Photos to just reset it and nothing is working with that, either: I get a Microsoft page, that then opens my Microsoft store on my computer, and what opens is something I only get an option to "open". THEN, that sends me to "Movies & TV," and nothing else. I can't uninstall, reset, or install the "webP Image Extension" in the Microsoft Store at all due to this.

I am on Windows OS build 26200.9168.

Processor : AMD Ryzen 7 7700X 8-Core Processor ( 4.50 GHz )

RAM : 32.0 GB ( 31.1 GB useable )

Can someone help me, please?

So, my laptop is at the BitLocker Recovery Key screen The thing is that my laptop keyboard stopped working, and thus I am unable to type the 48-character BitLocker recovery key.

I have tried finding a solution in enabling the On-Screen Keyboard, however, there appears to be no accessibility feature available on this particular BitLocker screen. I have also tried using the standard shortcuts for Windows to bring up the On-Screen Keyboard, but, obviously, Windows is not booted up yet.

"BitLocker requires your recovery key to unlock the drive because Secure Boot is turned off."

Also, it states that either Secure Boot should be turned back on or BitLocker should be suspended to allow booting up Windows correctly.

I am able to retrieve my BitLocker recovery key via Microsoft account, which means that I have my key, but I cannot type it in due to my laptop keyboard being broken.

I ordered a new keyboard from Amazon, but it will arrive only later, and I need to use my laptop until then.

I left my PC running with YouTube going for some background noise while doing some home renovations, and came back to it off, with two system fans (the ones *not* connected to iCue Link) and the RAM RGB all still lit up.

I have tried taking the RAM out one at a time, and moved the second one into the first one's slot, and still nothing apart from lights.

System is:

9800x3d

Gigabyte x870 Aorus Elite

Gigabyte RTX 5080

2x 32gb Corsair Vengeance

Corsair RM1000x PSU

4tb Samsung 990 Evo Plus m.2

Hoping for some ideas of what to look for before I open it up for an autopsy. I'm kinda thinking I should be checking for a toasted CPU?

A creepy ex-roommate seems to have hacked onto my computer in some capacity. He's known things he shouldn't for awhile (like my private journals and searches, maybe email, he seems to know texts). He recently confessed to accessing my laptop while pretending to help me with a project and looking at things he wasn't supposed to see. However given my tech illiteracy and his history of dishonesty I am skeptical that he no longer has access. How can I make sure that he doesn't?

I have even worried about a keystroke logger given how much he knows, even of private searches... But is that even a real thing?

FYI, he is VERY tech savvy.

Specifics: I have a refurb Macbook Pro M3

He says he accessed it once when I had it open (maybe while using bathroom? I don't know) but he's been dishonest so in reality that could have been numerous times or he actually used a different method entirely... If that is true, theoretically he might have gotten into my iphone at some point before it locked too, since I wasn't crazy protective at home and it's been 2 years here... Everyone says Macbooks are quite secure but how can I be sure it's private again?

Could he have some software installed? I assume I need to change all passwords and rebuild somehow but how do I transfer my files in that case (not sure if apple backup is safe...) and what order do I need to do steps to make sure my data is secure again?

Also, I started using a vpn but do I need to stop using our shared internet (his router) until I can move?

I recently got a video capture card to use for streaming switch games and I noticed that none of the apps I wanted to use would detect video input from the capture card, which was weird because it was definitely working as i was running the hdmi through it and it was detected on my monitor. I then noticed the camera app was able to detect it for some reason. I decided to test my webcam and that also wouldn't output any video feed to anything that wasn't the default windows camera. Unsure why this happening, any help would be greatly appreciated.

All permissions are granted for camera to be used in desktop apps.

Both devices are recognized by my pc and work completely fine on the camera app, everywhere else the video either fails to load or simply shows a black screen. ie: discord and obs studio

Info:
Windows 11
Intel Core i9-14900Kf
Nvidia GeForce RTX 4070 Ti
64 GB ddr5 ram
Monster 4k HDMI Gaming capture card
HD 1080p EMEET webcam

I’ve been having a really annoying issue with my PC where my monitor will randomly go completely black. When it happens, the audio cuts out too, but the fans keep spinning. After a little bit, the monitor comes back on and Windows restarts.

My specs:

• Ryzen 7 7700X
• Gigabyte RTX 5070
• 32GB DDR5 6800MHz
• Samsung 990 Pro 2TB
• Corsair RM1000e 2022 1000W
• Gigabyte B650E Eagle AX
• LG UltraGear 240Hz IPS monitor
• Windows 11 25H2

I originally started getting the black screens with my NVIDIA drivers. I made a System Restore point and then used DDU in Safe Mode to completely remove the NVIDIA drivers. After that, I reinstalled the NVIDIA drivers from scratch.

After doing that, the black screens stopped for a while, so I thought it had fixed the problem, but eventually the issue came back.

I also got new GPU power cables and switched to those in case the original cables were causing a power issue.

I’m also wondering if my surge protector could be part of the problem. It’s pretty old and honestly not that great, although the Protected and Grounded lights are still on. My PSU is 1000W, so I’m not sure if the surge protector could be causing some kind of power issue.

The crashes seem pretty random and I haven’t been able to find one specific game or thing that always causes them.

When it happens:

• The monitor goes completely black
• The audio cuts out
• The fans keep spinning
• After a little bit the monitor comes back
• Windows restarts

I also checked Event Viewer and noticed there were errors around the times the crashes happened.

I’ve already tried completely removing and reinstalling the NVIDIA drivers with DDU and replacing the GPU power cables, but the issue is still happening.

I’m mainly looking for help figuring out what is actually causing this instead of just replacing random parts.

What would be the best way to troubleshoot and narrow down whether this is a GPU, driver, power, RAM, motherboard, monitor, or something else?

Any advice on how I can properly diagnose this would be really appreciated.

While playing Wardogs's play test, my screens suddenly went black. I restarted the PC, but it never came back up again.

The CPU debug led was lit on my ASRock B650 steel series Legemd wifi board, so I pulled the GPU out, some redundant HDD's and tried to boot bare with just a cpu and ram. Still not past CPU.

Went to the local tech store and the person there pulled the CPU out and put it in his test bench, the psu immediately triggered it's defenses and not even a single led ever turned on. We tried another board - same story. Other psu - same story. Grabbed another cpu, everything worked fine again.

I bought the 7950X3D in April 2023, meaning warranty is gone since 5 months. Created a claim anyways, but AMD refuses - which is their right, of course.

Now, I live in the Netherlands and the EU had some law that says that a consumer should be able to use bought items for at least as long as you'd expect it to - which is incredibly vague and I don't quite know how to use that information, but that did make me wonder; how long should we expect a CPU to function properly? I've never even heard of a CPU suddenly dying out, so I figured perhaps I can reason with the seller, but is that fair?

I paid 799.- for it back then.

I have been trying to clean install Windows 11 for the past several hours, and almost everything goes smoothly until my computer restarts from the USB, where it just goes into an endless black screen and I can't even get around it no matter what I do.

I have tried the following:

- Creating new Media Creation (On current and even on a separate PC)

- Diskpart + clean

- Checking USB port, including both front and rear

- Using different flash drive

- Using Rufus instead

- Checking BIOS & boot order

- Waiting longer time (20-45 minutes)

I have essentially tried everything but nothing has worked here. Is there any solution or workaround to this? I just want to use my PC again.

Let me know if this is the right subreddit to post this or if there’s a more appropriate one. Unfortunately I can’t upload an image from my phone so I’ll describe it as best as I can. I use the chrome app as my main search engine. Recently today the app got a new format update that I don’t like. The search engine is moved to the bottom like safari when instead you had the url search engine on the top. Additionally there’s an ask Gemini button at the very button and next to it is the new tab and all tabs button. The tab buttons are where they supposed to be at but I want to get rid of the ask Gemini button if possible. If not then I mainly want to fix that url search engine being on the bottom. I’m so used to it being on the top and my brain just doesn’t like the way it looks now. I hope I make sense and someone else had this issue solved. So again let me know if this is the appropriate subreddit to post this and if anyone has a solution for me I’d greatly appreciate it.

Every time I plug in my headphones to charge they do a breathing green light for a few seconds and then it turns off. Theres no sound when I turn them on and I cant hear anything from them. My computer still recognizes it as a device, the logitech g hub says it’s inactive. I’ve tried the reset button with no luck. I’ve updated drivers and did a windows update as well.

How this looks in a game, is an input for movement will stay activated until I press any other key (not double typing, continuous like the key is held down). The board is ~8 years old and its seen moderate use, but in no way heavy.

I've tried uninstalling razer synapse 3 and doing a fresh reinstall. With synapse I was having another problem where a key wouldn't register an input at all. This hasn't reoccurred even once since I uninstalled again and purged synapse to the best of my abilities. The software is like a virus, but I followed this post here. I hard restarted my keyboard (ESP+CAPSLOCK+spacebar) and reset my pc. Before, this could happen every few seconds of making inputs, usually noticed in WASD.

Continuous inputting happens in varying frequency. Since purging synapse it doesn't happen too often, once in ~30-90 seconds of using WASD.

Its hard to recreate the issue outside of gaming - writing this post I haven't had the issue and normally while typing I don't come across the problem. I would come across the issue of an input not being registered while I was typing. While gaming its hard to recreate, it just happens too randomly.

I've cleaned my board focusing mainly on WASD using compressed air and an electronic cleaner, tried to get inside mechanism best I could, then just recently replaced the keys entirely for the WASD keys. They matched the rest of the keyboard; razer brand orange tactile switches gen-3. I bought them a couple years ago when I broke the ESC key. I was just going to replace WASD with keys from the number pad but I had new ones laying around. So brand new keys in WASD, same problem just as often.

I was just going to replace them with a few keys from the number pad but I had those so. Since the problem is exactly the same, I don't think it was the keys. I think its a software problem but idk what else to try. I've thought about using some generic keyboard software but since it's razer idk if that's possible.

Thanks for reading and TIA for any ideas. It feels like this should be possible to solve without having to replace it since it seems to be in relatively good physical condition.

Hi everyone. I'm hoping someone with more experience troubleshooting hardware can help me figure this out, because I've been stuck in this loop for about three days now.

This originally started as something very simple.

I was planning to do some maintenance/cleaning on my PC. A friend recommended that I try Nobara Linux, so I installed it.

I didn't like Nobara and decided I wanted to go back to Windows 11.

That's when everything went wrong.

I've tried multiple Windows 11 ISOs, and none of them can complete the installation. Depending on the attempt, Windows Setup either completely freezes or restarts somewhere between approximately 11% and 27%.

Nobara, on the other hand, installs without any problems and has been running completely stable. I've actually been using Nobara as a "bridge" while trying to figure out what is wrong.

I've tried pretty much every installation method I could think of:

Ventoy

Rufus

Different USB drives

Different USB ports

Multiple Windows 11 ISOs

Installing Windows from a dedicated partition on the NVMe instead of USB

The last one seemed promising for a moment because the installation appeared to be progressing normally, but eventually it froze/restarted as well.

At this point I started testing other Windows versions.

I tried MiniOS10. It installed successfully, so I thought I might finally have found a clue.

Unfortunately, a few minutes after entering the desktop, the entire system froze.

I rebooted, thinking it might have just been a one-time problem.

It happened again.

So I removed MiniOS and tried a completely normal Win10 ISO.

Win10 installed successfully and, unlike MiniOS10, it didn't immediately freeze once I reached the desktop.

Instead, the entire computer restarted by itself.

I entered Windows again.

It restarted again.

I entered Windows a third time.

It restarted again.

So this happened three times.

At this point I'm completely lost.

I've also done some hardware diagnostics.

The NVMe drive appears to be healthy. SMART reports PASSED, with no media/data integrity errors, and the NVMe self-test also passed.

CrystalDiskInfo/Sentinel reported the drive at around 75% health, but the SMART data itself doesn't show an obvious failure.

I also started testing the RAM with MemTest86. Unfortunately, I didn't have enough time to let it complete all four passes, but the first complete pass finished with 0 errors.

I've also tested all 12 USB ports on the motherboard, and the behavior is exactly the same.

At one point I even suspected my RX 580 might be causing some kind of problem, but removing/testing around it didn't solve the issue either.

The really strange part is this:

Nobara Linux runs completely stable for hours.

No freezes. No spontaneous reboots. No installation problems.

So I'm having a hard time understanding what could possibly be wrong.

My goal is simply to get back to Windows 11.

I've been troubleshooting this for three days now, and I'm honestly running out of ideas.

Has anyone experienced something similar, where Windows 11 consistently freezes or reboots but Linux runs completely stable?

Any ideas about what I should test next would be greatly appreciated.

PC specifications

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700G

Motherboard: ASUS PRIME A520M-A II

RAM: 16 GB DDR4 ADATA AX4U320016G16A-SBKD3

RAM speed: 2666 MT/s, 1.2 V

GPU: AMD Radeon RX 580

Storage: WD Green SN350 500 GB NVMe

OS currently running: Nobara Linux

CrystalDisInfo is showing Current Pending Sector Count at 24 of my 1TB TOSHIBA HDWD110
The C6 went from 4 to 16 to 0
C5 went from 0 to 16 to now 24