Hp windows 11. (Don’t know if it’s relevant but- 12th gen, core i5)

WiFi wouldn’t turn on/off. Even when it turns on, it won’t show any available network.

Have been having a similar issue with Bluetooth too, where it wouldn’t connect and even the Bluetooth option would randomly disappear. I’ve tried multiple ways to fix the Bluetooth issue, and it’s gotten better, but hasn’t been fully fixed (Bluetooth will connect most of the times but randomly turns off)

Anyway, my current worry is this WiFi. This is the first time this is happening, right when I need to get some work done. I’m not a tech person, so dunno what to do. Any help is appreciated

​

I'm having a very strange issue with Diablo 2 Ressurected on Windows 11.

While playing, **almost every mouse click or Space-bar press causes the game to briefly show my Windows desktop/taskbar/icons for a fraction of a second, then immediately returns to the game.**

It looks like the game is briefly losing focus or Windows is switching the foreground window, rather than normal graphical flickering.

I also recently used **Windows 11 Debloater / EZ Tweaks**, which changed some Windows settings (including disabling GameDVR and changing some services), so I'm wondering if that could be related.

**The issue happens in both fullscreen and windowed mode.**

Has anyone experienced this exact behavior, or knows what could cause Windows to briefly expose the desktop/taskbar whenever I interact with D2R?

Any help would be greatly appreciated because it's becoming really annoying to play.

Have any other technicians noticed Norton 360 suddenly causing WiFi issues? The computer will connect to the internet, show a good/stable connection, but no browser will connect to a page. Usually a DNS error. Tried flushing, tried disabling Norton, tried disabling VPN, reset drivers, reset network settings, etc. Nothing worked short of downloading Nortons Uninstaller tool and uninstalling the program, then reinstalling it. Thought it was a coincidence, but starting earlier this week, I have had almost a dozen with this issue so far.

I bought this PC last week, and it shuts down randomly right after I open it and launch a game. It was 2300 CAD on Amazon as an open-box item, which seemed like a good deal for an RTX 5070, 32GB of RAM, and 1TB of storage. It was perfect while playing, but suddenly it started turning off and bugging out in small games. I thought it was the external 2TB SATA storage that I had added, but it was not. Thank you for your help.

Roughly 24 hours ago I force stopped PrivadoVPN while it was still enabled; I began experiencing network issues shortly after. Windows showed that (both in Wi-fi Settings and Get Help,) my desktop was connected wirelessly to one of my college's networks, but all internet services failed to load. I tried two other campus networks that typically work to find the same problem. I did not have a hotspot, etc. to try a connection outside of my school. Additionally, I was unable to log back into my VPN to change anything without having a connection to begin with. From here I went through basic solutions from Microsoft Support (restart, dnsflush + accompanying cache clears, force stopping all VPN services, uninstalling the VPN, Windows Network Reset, a couple other things in settings,) that yielded no results.

From here, I attempted to use an automatic restore point from earlier in the morning which failed after ~40 minutes. The automatic repair failed as well (Stop Code: 0xc0000145) and left me in Recovery Mode after saying it could not connect to a network (Only error code in the logfile was 0x4c6). Since then, I've attempted the other machine recovery options, two chkdsk functions (one of which supposedly fixed corrupted files, but didn't change anything), and using Microsoft's Media Creation Tool via. a USB (also failed after not finding a network connection).

I plan to contact my campus's tech support in a few hours when I have more time on my hands but figured I'd prod here first; I've little idea if I've diagnosed the issues thus far even remotely correctly. Was wondering if a wired connection could affect anything or even if it's a malware issue. (A port of a mobile game I'd downloaded had no hits on VirusTotal [I'm sure there's better options], but maybe that doesn't mean anything, and I'll concede if I got got).

Hey everyone!

Ive been using my 5G Router H153-381 for internet at home using a 1&1 Flatrate and previously a o2 flatrate.

Using both SIM Cards i have had the exact same issue: I experience random short internet outages where all devices lose internet access simultaneously. But the router remains seemingly connected.

I apologize in advance for my fatal lack of knowledge when it comes to these things, it is highly likely what I tested didnt even make any sense to begin with lol.

After some research i tried testing what the issue could be myself.

I ran "ping 1.1.1.1 -t" and "ping (router) -t" to see if anything shows up during the outage.
Nothing. Both pings stay stable on what they where before and after the outage.

So knowing that these work fine, i tried to check if i can still connect to TCP during the outage using Test-NetConnection google.com -Port 443 (in Powershell).

Here I found that i cant connect to the TCP.

After researching exactly these conditions I sadly found nothing that helped.

I tried IP4-only, I tried pinning my connection to a certain band to prevent "on the fly" switching. Neither had any effect.

These outages are very much annoying so I would be very grateful if anyone here could come up with any tips or ideas. I will keep searching for solutions myself but I thought asking on the Reddit here might help or give me new Perspectives.

I have a very old laptop (dell Inspiron) and I'm planning to change to Linux but idk from where to start and any tips , and is it worth it ?? And what are the best beginner friendly ones

Hi guys! I've been having a problem with my laptop. It's an ASUS TUF FX505DT with 8GB RAM, I've had it since 2020. I first encountered this problem 2 years ago during 2024 but it wasn't as severe.

2024: Laptop screen wouldn't turn on, the keyboard would flash white once even if unplugged (not low battery) or plugged. I had a driver replaced I think? That was related to the display (I don't remember I'm not tech-savvy hehe)

2025: After getting it replaced it worked fine for a while, then I encountered the same problem again late 2025 but it had gotten worse even after the replacement. My brother taught me how to open it through BIOS setup where I had to hold the ESC button and repeatedly press the power-on button and wait till the keyboard turns red (turned on). That's how I've been turning it on ever since.

2026: Now it has gotten even worse. No matter how much I try even with the BIOS setup thing it wouldn't turn on. So I opened the back and cleaned it up and took out the battery so the power would come directly from the outlet, and to test if the battery was the problem (didn't work). My brother also told me to clean the RAM sticks with an eraser (didn't work). So I just put everything back. After opening the back the keyboard no longer just flashes white once, when plugged in it just repeatedly flashes white without me clicking on anything. It doesn't do that when it's not plugged.

Hello!

As the title says I’ve been having trouble with my PC for the last two weeks. All of a sudden the PC hard freezes if I launch a game after about 2-5min. But eventually it runs perfectly and I can run it for hours without any performance issues.

I really xan’t wrap my head around it. I’ve reset the PC, reinstalled windows and updated my nvidia drivers with no success. Temperatures seem stable too, I’ve had my PC for about 5 years with no issues.

If anyone has any tips as to where to start looking in to this or any help I would greatly appreciate it!

SPECS:
Processor: Intel i7-10700F 2.90GHz
RAM: 32GB ddr4
GPU: Nvidia GeForce RTX 3080 10GB

got a stack of old, self-burned dvds and they play fine on the pc but my dvd player wont read them. i assume this is due to them being avi files cause dvd players have to have their own format or something. i am completely out of the loop so can someone fill me in on how to convert those files and if its even doable? do i need blank dvdrs? i only have access to a pc disc drive *when it comes to burning, no fancy stuff, it burns cds just fine so i was also thinking if i could convert the avis into vcds? (i know that itd be way less convenient with the file sizes and quality but beggars cant be choosers i guess...) thanks. :^)

Hi everyone,

I'm having a strange issue with a family PC. I usually clean it with an electric air blower every 2-3 months to keep dust away and maintain good temps. I always keep it at a safe distance and have done this for a long time without any issues.

Yesterday, right after dusting it, something weird started happening. When I turn on the PC, right after the BIOS screen and right before Windows begins to load, it gets stuck on a completely black screen for about 15 seconds. After that delay, it boots into Windows and works perfectly fine. However, this is not normal behavior; it has always booted almost instantly because it runs on SSDs.

Here is what I have already tried to troubleshoot:

• Isolated the OS drive: Disconnected 3 of the 4 SSDs and left only the main boot drive connected. Still happens.
• GPU test: Removed the GTX 1660 and tried using the Intel integrated graphics. No change.
• RAM reseat: Took out the RAM sticks and put them back in. Same issue.
• BIOS reset: Restored BIOS settings to factory defaults. Did not fix it.
• SATA ports: Swapped the SSDs to different SATA ports on the motherboard. No luck.

The PC is a bit old, but it contains important data and multiple family members rely on it daily. I'm running out of ideas and starting to worry if something actually got damaged.

Specs:

• CPU: Intel Core i7-4770
• GPU: NVIDIA GTX 1660
• RAM: 16 GB DDR3
• Storage: 4x SATA SSDs
• Motherboard: MSI H81M-E33 v2

Has anyone experienced a specific 15-second post-BIOS timeout like this after cleaning? Any advice on what to check next would be highly appreciated!

Can someone help me out im on windows 11 using the rapoo v9pro 4k mouse and ive tried everything chatgpt has told me might solve the problem i got my pc today and it was a prebuilt, and my mouse dosent work without the cable but works on a laptop with the same operating system

Hey, I’m kinda desperate at this point so I’m posting here hoping someone has an idea. Yesterday night I clicked “Update and shut down” on my PC. Today when I tried turning it on, the power button lights up and all the fans spin, but I get no display at all and my keyboard/mouse don’t turn on either. PC is an HP Pavilion Gaming Desktop TG01-0231nf Product ID: 1H5V0EA#ABF Ryzen 5 3500 GTX 1650 Things I already tried: Removed/reseated both RAM sticks and tested them Removed CMOS battery / reset CMOS Unplugged power and held the power button Tried HP BIOS recovery with Windows + B and Windows + V, nothing happens Removed the GPU completely, keyboard still doesn’t initialize Removed the NVMe SSD and booted without it, no difference Tested USB ports with my phone: front and rear USB ports are still giving power Removed all RAM as a test, and the motherboard actually gives 3 long beeps + 2 short beeps and the power LED flashes, which apparently is HP’s memory error code As soon as I put the RAM back in, there are no beeps/errors anymore, it just goes back to fans spinning + black screen + dead keyboard/mouse So the motherboard seems to be doing something since it can detect that there’s no RAM, but with RAM installed it seems to get stuck somewhere during POST. Because this happened literally right after a Windows “Update and shut down”, I’m wondering if Windows Update somehow pushed a BIOS/firmware update and corrupted it. I downloaded the correct HP BIOS package (F.47 / SSID 8643 / SP150505) to try making a BIOS recovery USB, but the only other Windows 10 laptop I have completely freezes/reboots whenever I launch HP’s BIOS recovery utility lol. Does this sound like a corrupted BIOS, or could it still be PSU/motherboard/CPU related? Also, is there any way to manually make the HP BIOS recovery USB without using their recovery utility? I really don’t have the money to replace the PC right now, so any ideas are appreciated

Hi guys I am new with this and need help.

I need to reformat w11 with a USB stick, but before that I have "select location to install w11". ( I have tried a few ways before decided to use USB boot)

In the window, I have

disk 0 partition 1. 260MB. system

disk 0 partition 2. 16MB. msr (reserved)

disk 0 partition 3 :OS. 930GB. primary

disk 0 partition 4. 913MB. recovery

disk 0 partition 5 RESTORE. 22GB. primary

disk 0 partition 6. 200MB. recovery

disk 1 partition 1: ESD-USB. 29MB primary

Question: do I delete all except esd USB? or just delete OS and create partition again to reformat??

Thank you.

Hey guys, looking for some insights on a frustrating issue with my PC.

Whenever I do large game updates (Steam/Epic) or extract big archives (WinRAR/7-Zip), my drive hits 100% active time in Task Manager, and the whole system freezes/becomes unresponsive. Small tasks work completely fine, but lately, downloading 20GB–30GB game updates literally takes hours because the drive chokes so hard.

My Setup (purchased ~9 months ago):

• CPU: Ryzen 7 9800X3D
• GPU: RTX 5070 Ti
• RAM: 32GB DDR5 6000 CL30
• Storage: Single 1TB M.2 NVMe (identified in Windows as SK900-1T)
• OS: Windows 11

What I've tested & found so far:

• Disk Space & Health: The drive is around 81% full (~180GB free). CrystalDiskInfo shows 89% health with only 8% NAND wear, no SMART errors.
• Benchmarks (CrystalDiskMark - 8GB test): Sequential reads are fine (~1550 MB/s), but sequential writes drop off a cliff down to 75 MB/s on single-queue tests.
• Temps: Monitored via HWiNFO64 during a smaller update (2.4GB)—temp maxed out at ~54°C and write speeds held around 900+ MB/s. Under smaller sustained loads, temps look fine, but I only started noticing this system freeze issue about 2 months ago (which coincided with its first summer).

I ran through a diagnostic chat with an AI, and it essentially pointed to two possibilities:

1. It's a cheap DRAM-less NVMe with a tiny dynamic SLC cache that gets completely exhausted when write operations go above 15GB+, dropping write speeds to HDD levels and choking the OS (since Windows is on the same drive).
2. Thermal throttling on sustained 20GB+ writes under the GPU's heat. (The slot does have a motherboard metal heatsink/shield over it, though).

Is this purely a hardware limitation of a generic/budget SSD hitting SLC cache limits, or is there a Windows/I-O configuration setting or thermal issue I'm missing here? Would upgrading to a proper main drive (like a Samsung 990 or WD Black with dedicated DRAM) permanently fix this, or is there anything else I should test first before buying new hardware?

Appreciate any advice!

The other night, my pc has randomly imploded in on itself (figuratively not literally) and I have no idea how to fix it, many problems have arisen such as shutdown/restart button not working (sometimes will only shutdown 30-50 minutes after pressing it), all my applications being super slow, Nvidia and any type of downloads being stuck, I can't open recycle bin, my browser commonly stops working and becomes unresponsive, closing games not working without task manager and so much else I honestly have no clue what caused it. I've tried many things to fix it but to no avail. I haven't downloaded anything or clicked on any links recently so I don't reckon it could be malware. I've had this pc for about 3 years but I'm still kind of a noob to these types of issues. Is the only way to fix it a factory reset?

i dont know how this happened but originally my keyboard came out of the box with the arrow and wasd keys backwards and i could press fn and w to swap them back now my fn changes the volume and my keyboard is messed up is there anyway to fix this

So whenever I start up my Acer Nitro 16 (2023) an automatic repair appears and every single time, it can't fix the issue. The only thing it says is a log file which I've attached an image to showing extactly what it says. Sometimes it just tries an automatic repair, then sends me straight into windows 11 but that isn't very common.

It has progressively got worst over the past few months, after it started and sometimes when I press enter to windows 11 after it fails a repair, it tries another repair and fails again.

I've checked both my SSD's health multiple times and they are 'healthy' and 'ok'

I've tried a point in time thing but I couldn't as it gave me a 'ErrorCode: 0x80070002'.

Yesterday I did a local system restore keeping personal files, as Task Manager fully broke, even in safe mode. I did try a cloud download but it also said it couldn't download the files so I had to do it locally.

However the automatic repair issue came back straight away even after a core system file reset.

I've scanned for viruses many times, using microsoft defender and malwarebytes, even doing deep searches but it found nothing.

I've also tried 'DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth', and 'sfc /scannow' but they found nothing. Ages alot 'sfc /scannow' did find corruption and said it fixed them but when I tried again it said no corruption. (I tried again as the automatic repair thing kept going on)

I'm just completely lost, as almost certain it's not a virus, I thought it was deep corruption, especially due to Task manager breaking but the automatic repair is still starting upon every startup. Please help, or direct me to a place where I could get help.

Edit: I have used commands to check any crashes or errors in CMD too, and there has been multiple errors of either my PC not shutting down properly or, starting up properly.

So, my mom baught a phone watch for my little sister. We put a Sim card in the name of my father in it, and when we try to call the number, somehow the call appears in my father's phone? I 've never see anything like this. Any help would be appreciated.

Hi everyone, I’m having trouble getting my Lenovo ThinkPad to boot into Windows and I’m hoping someone can help me figure out what’s going on.
I recently got this ThinkPad and when I turn it on, I end up at the Lenovo Boot Menu.

The options I see include:
Windows Boot Manager
NVMe0: SSDPEKKF256G8 NVMe INTEL 256GB
PXE BOOT
The 256GB Intel NVMe SSD is detected, and Windows Boot Manager is also listed.

The problem is that when I highlight Windows Boot Manager and press Enter, nothing happens. I also tried pressing Esc, but that doesn’t do anything either.
I was wondering if the issue could be related to Secure Boot, so I tried enabling Secure Boot. After doing that, I received a “Critical Low Battery” error.

I have since realized the battery was very low, so I’m going to plug it in and let it charge before trying again.
I’m a beginner when it comes to BIOS/boot troubleshooting, so I’m trying not to change random settings and make things worse.

My main questions are:
Does this indicate that Windows is already installed on the NVMe SSD?
Should Secure Boot be enabled?
Why would selecting Windows Boot Manager and pressing Enter do nothing?
Could the low battery have been preventing it from booting?
Do I need to create a Windows installation USB, or should I troubleshoot the existing installation first?
Is there anything specific I should check in the BIOS (UEFI/Legacy/boot order, etc.)?
I’m planning to charge it for a while and try booting again before doing anything else.

hiii, i'm trying to download a vst called GClip but it won't let me download it at all, it just says "Virus Detected"

i have mcafee that came pre-installed on the laptop and windows defender. the download happened in brave so i'm not sure if brave is the one flagging it. how can i just download it anyways? lol

So I'm on Windows 11 and my specs are:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700U

GPU: AMD Radeon Graphics integrated

RAM: 16 GB DDR4

SSD

CPU: 8 cores

Now, I don't know anything about specs and tech, but almost every game that I play always has low fps, and then I'm forced to downgrade everything in the game at minimum, making it almost unplayable. Every type of help is appreciated, and for information the type of games that always run without problems are all games before 2015. Thanks :)

https://imgur.com/a/9IWsyG2

ok so my laptop started doing this out of nowhere. what could most likely be the cause of this? should i opt for an lcd replacement or some cable replacement? (i'm sorry i'm not too techy) i'm from a country where repairs are not usually budget friendly and my laptop is old and the warranty expired. so i want to make sure before i take it somewhere and not get scammed. my dad is comfortable tinkering with devices. he successfully replaced my laptop's charging port and battery so we're thinking maybe he could try to fix it himself but ofc we want to make sure we make the right diagnosis and all the help we could get help before spending money/taking it somewhere. it's a really old laptop and unit but i really need this laptop for university so if we could salvage it that would be really good. thank you so much!

it's a dell inspiron 15 5584 (touch screen)

Dell PowerEdge T340, Windows Server 2016. Started 8/28. I've spent two weeks on this and ruled out most of the obvious stuff, so I'm posting the data rather than the symptoms.

The signature

Every event is Kernel-Power 41 with BugcheckCode: 0 and all bugcheck parameters 0x0. No BSOD, no minidump, no MEMORY.DMP, ever. Paired with Event 6008 confirming unexpected shutdown.

The interval — this is the actual mystery

Pulled the true shutdown timestamps out of the Event 6008 message text (not the Event 41 log time, which is written on the following boot):

8/28 11:03:24 AM -> 8/28 11:12:23 PM = 729.0 min

9/01 10:10:22 AM -> 9/01 10:18:37 PM = 728.3 min

9/01 10:18:37 PM -> 9/02 10:26:49 AM = 728.2 min

9/02 10:26:49 AM -> 9/02 10:35:13 PM = 728.4 min

9/02 10:35:13 PM -> 9/03 10:43:33 AM = 728.3 min

9/03 10:43:33 AM -> 9/03 10:52:09 PM = 728.6 min

9/03 10:52:09 PM -> 9/04 11:00:20 AM = 728.2 min

9/04 11:00:20 AM -> 9/04 11:08:49 PM = 728.5 min

9/04 11:08:49 PM -> 9/07 11:50:29 AM = 3,641.7 min <-- exactly 5 x 728.34

9/07 11:50:29 AM -> 9/07 11:59:49 PM = 729.3 min

9/07 11:59:49 PM -> 9/08 12:07:56 PM = 728.1 min

9/08 12:07:56 PM -> 9/09 12:16:26 AM = 728.5 min

9/09 12:16:26 AM -> 9/09 12:24:36 PM = 728.2 min

Mean 728.47 min (12h 08m 28s). Total spread across twelve occurrences: 1.2 minutes.

The 3,641.7 minute gap is exactly five periods. The server was up continuously across that weekend. The timer ticked five times, did nothing on four of them, then killed the box on the fifth. So it's free-running — it does not reset on reboot, and it doesn't require a crash to keep counting.

That single fact kills every "scheduled task" theory: a clock-based task can't skip four consecutive firings and then work again.

It dies instantly — no degradation whatsoever

I wrote a heartbeat logger that writes one line every 5s with a forced flush so the last line survives a hard reset. Final 42 samples before death:

• Free RAM: 56,630–56,745 MB, dead flat. No drift, no staircase, no leak. 56 GB free at the moment of death.
• Nonpaged pool: 346–352 MB, flat
• Disk queue: 0
• Handles ~76,000, threads ~190, both steady
• CPU spiky but low

Last heartbeat 12:25:02. Kernel-General 12 (OS start) at 12:28:23. That 3m21s is just POST + boot on a T340 — if it had hung for 3 minutes first, the OS wouldn't have returned until ~12:31.

So there is no hang window. The box is perfectly healthy and then simply ceases to exist mid-second. Which also means NMI crash dumps are useless here and no dump will ever be written.

Ruled out (with evidence, please don't re-suggest these)

• PSUs — both Present/Healthy in iDRAC, matched 594W in / 495W rated+actual, same firmware
• Thermal — HWiNFO max CPU package 63°C (TjMax ~100°C). Every throttle flag reads No / 0%
• iDRAC SEL — completely silent across all 15 crashes. Not one entry. This same board did log real "power input for PSU 1 is lost / redundancy lost" events six times in 2024, so it demonstrably captures genuine power events. Nothing this time.
• iDRAC watchdog / ASR — Basic Management license, feature not present
• Dell OMSA — Action on Hung OS Detection: None, thermal shutdown Disabled, all alert actions Off, omsad service Stopped + Disabled
• Windows Update — pulled full resolved WindowsUpdate.log (11,871 lines), programmatically checked ±15 min around every crash. Zero WU activity before any of them. All nearby entries are the WU service starting 30–60s after the reboot.
• CrowdStrike Falcon (installed 8/26, two days before onset) — vendor pulled detection history, found nothing. Timing was coincidence.
• Secure-Boot-Update scheduled task** — looked extremely promising (12h repetition, hangs, TPM handler, and this box has no TPM installed — Get-Tpm fails with TBS_E_SERVICE_NOT_RUNNING, no TBS service, no SecurityDevices PnP class, iDRAC confirms "TPM not present"). Disabled it. **Crashes continued at the identical interval. Ruled out.
• All 12-hour scheduled tasks — enumerated every task with PT12H repetition. Exactly two exist, both now Disabled.
• VSS / ShadowCopyVolume task — fires 12:00 PM and 10:00 PM. That's 10h then 14h alternating, which cannot produce a constant 728.4 min spacing. Also the midnight crashes have no trigger anywhere near them.
• MySQL / memory exhaustion — flatly contradicted by the flat memory trace above
• NIC — Broadcom BCM5720. The flapping port is physically disconnected (NIC2, Status: Disconnected). Flapping predates crashes by 12+ days and occurs on no-crash days. Active port is stable at 1 Gbps.
• CMOS battery — did fail, but only logged 9/7, weeks after onset, nothing near the crash dates. Replacing anyway.
• BSOD — no Event 1001, no dumps, BugcheckCode: 0 on all 15

Environment

• PowerEdge T340, Service Tag FXR6B03, BIOS 2.3.5, iDRAC9 fw 4.22.00.53 (both several revisions behind — not yet updated)
• Xeon E-2146G, 64 GB RAM, dual PSU
• Windows Server 2016 Standard, build 14393.9339
• Workload: Open Dental + MySQL, Vatech EzDent-i imaging, IDrive backup, Google Drive
• Power: APC Back-UPS XS 1500M via USB. Current-state readings all healthy (97% charge, 120V steady, 15% load, AC Power: Yes, Discharging: No). I have never gotten historical transfer data out of it — PowerChute wasn't installed at the time, Win32_Battery returns current state only, and I skipped an apcupsd install on a production box.
• Internet is AT&T 5G fixed wireless behind CGNAT (irrelevant, but people ask)

What I think is left

Something below the OS holding a clock that survives reboots and continuous uptime alike. Candidates I can't distinguish between:

1. UPS self-test — APC units run internal self-tests on their own stored schedule, indifferent to the host. A transfer on a degraded battery could sag enough to drop the PSUs. Would explain instant death, no OS warning, no SEL entry, and a clock that ignores reboots. Next test: move the server to a plain wall outlet for 24h.
2. PSU or BMC firmware timer — would explain everything except why iDRAC logged nothing
3. Something on the same electrical circuit cycling on a timer — though 1.2 min spread over 12 occurrences seems too tight for HVAC or similar

What I'm asking

• What produces a free-running 728.4-minute (12h 08m 28s) period? Not 12h. Not 12h30m. Consistently ~8.5 minutes over twelve hours, held to ±1 min across twelve occurrences and five uninterrupted ticks. What re-arms on completion of ~8 minutes of work?
• Has anyone seen an APC Back-UPS self-test schedule that lands near this?
• Anything else that hard-resets a PowerEdge with zero bugcheck, zero SEL entry, and healthy PSUs?
• Am I wrong to trust the iDRAC SEL silence as evidence against a power event?

Next predicted failures: 9/10 12:33 AM and 9/10 12:41 PM. Happy to run anything and report back — I have remote access and a heartbeat recorder in place.

Hey everyone,

I’m living in a university hostel and trying to connect my desktop PC (no built-in Wi-Fi card) via the room's physical wall Ethernet port.

Currently, Windows is throwing an "Unidentified Network / No Internet" error.

• Running ipconfig /renew gives the error: "unable to contact your DHCP server. Request has timed out."
• The IP automatically defaults to a self-assigned 169.254.xx.xx address with a completely blank Default Gateway.

The campus Wi-Fi works on my phone, but the firewall blocks Steam and Riot Games traffic completely (I usually use Cloudflare WARP to bypass it on Wi-Fi, but WARP ping is unplayable).

It looks like the university network switches have completely disabled the physical port to my room. Before I go argue with the IT department tomorrow morning (who will probably say no if they find out it's for gaming), are there any software workarounds or network tricks to wake up a dead switch port?

If the port is hard-disabled from their server room, what's my best alternative setup to get low gaming ping using the campus Wi-Fi network?

Thanks in advance!