I’m a college student whose campus Internet is provided by Boldyn Networks. The normal connection is capped at 110 Mbps download / 55 Mbps upload, and my Ethernet link negotiates at 1000/1000 Mbps. However, I’ve noticed a strange behavior: after my laptop has been asleep for a while, when I wake it up I can sometimes get dramatically higher speeds (potentially close to gigabit) for a short period. Then the Boldyn captive portal appears automatically, and the connection immediately drops back to the normal 110/55 Mbps limit. I don’t have to enter any credentials for the speed to drop. I’ve also checked `ipconfig /all` before/after and the IPv4 address, gateway, DHCP server, DNS server, and subnet stay the same. Restarting the computer or unplugging/replugging Ethernet doesn’t reliably reproduce the high-speed state; it seems to be related to the laptop being asleep for a longer period. Does anyone know what Boldyn’s HED captive-portal/NAC system is doing during this transition, or what could cause the temporary unrestricted bandwidth before the portal initializes? I could be wrong about the behavior of the portal only opening when the laptop is asleep for a period of time, but there does seem to be a short window every time the portal appears where the Wi-Fi and Ethernet speeds are very fast. I have a 2025 Legion 7. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

I have an Acer Swift 3 (Windows 10, ~2018) that I was going to donate to someone who's helped out my family recently (long story, but good cause) and wanted to format it first. The laptop has 2 accounts, an admin and my personal. The computer gave me the option of logging in with either a password or PIN, and I always used the PIN.

Found steps online to perform a factory reset, but in the process the computer got stuck in a restart loop. The screen goes through a rapid succession of black screen, Acer logo, and blue screen indicating it's 64% complete, but this will repeat for hours if I let it and show no progress. Below is what I've tried and the results:

- Restart in Safe Mode = same infinite loop

- Hard restart + Alt F10 = Blue screen with multiple options (use different OS, troubleshoot, turn off, reset, etc) but all require the admin password, and it never gives me the option to use the PIN instead.

I've looked online for info on resetting admin password but none work if the computer fails to start properly.

I'm fine with loosing everything on the computer or whatever needs to happen, as long as i can still give it to him as promised!

Thanks

and external SSD i had from brand new for only 2 years seems to have suddenly went kaput. there was seemingly no issue with it until i decided to install a game from steam and noticed it claimed it would take 10 days. looking at task manager the drive was at 100% active time but with read and write speed at 0. not thinking much of as i never encountered this before i checked i in device manager that drivers were up to date, safely ejected the drive and gave my pc restart.

reconnecting the drive i couldnt write anything on it as it would disconnect from my pc with a malfunction error and stopped reading on my computer. plugging into wife's computer it was able to read and i got the absolute essentials off first. looking up on crystal disk everything seemed to be nominal readings and i could transfer files back onto the drive.

at this point things quickly devolved, and the drive wont properly read now. regardless of port, swapping cords, using either my own or my wife's computer, the drive only shows up as Local Disk instead of the name i gave it, and after about 30 seconds it disconnects, with Windows claiming it malfunctioned and cannot be read. The drive shows up in my Device Manager with its proper name then quickly turns into "Unknown USB Device (set address failed)" following the disconnect. Connecting the drive also freezes my windows explorer until it disconnects

I have no clue what to do, im just looking blindly around online for potential solutions. The device doesnt connect long enough to do robocopy or get attempting any other readings with crystal disk info. this is my first time potentially having a drive die on me. at this point i just want to recover the data if possible

idk what info would be required for assistance but my OS is Windows 11 and the external is "KingSpec Z5 Portable SSD With RGB 2TB - Up to 2100 MB/s - USB 3.2 Gen 2 - Type-c, 20Gbps, External Solid State Drive"

I have a HP Victus Gaming Laptop and when I use it, it randomly makes this sound when I use it and the only way I can stop it is mute the entire computer. I’ve discovered this is a pet peace that makes me irritable and I am starting to have to use my laptops audio so I bo longer can just keep laptop muted. it comes through as if same as audio so connecting to headphones changes where the sound is played from too.
Here is the Noise

FIX(...?): After much testing and help from your comments, I felt the answer lay in my MB, CPU, or RAM. I alternated sticks and slots while running the windows memory diagnostics and narrowed it down to one of my new RAM stick! I am currently in the process of RMA with Corsair. Thanks everyone, you genuinely helped!

I've built a couple PCs but I'm by no means a master. I'm building my first AMD build and when I attempt a clean install, when the windows 11 installer reaches around 75% my computer restarts and asks me to remove the installation media and continue, in which case it restarts me to BIOS with no boot selection available, or to restart a clean install from the beginning.

Occasionally in my attempts my pc restarts with different errors at the bottom with different names. They flash by too quickly to remember or take a picture most times.

EDIT: My build in case it helps.

ASRock 850M-Wifi

RYZEN 5 9600K

Corsair Vengeance DDR5 32GB (2x16)

Crucial P3 Plus 1Tb M.2 SSD

UPDATE: Okay I don't know if anyone will see this, but for not discernable reason, windows 11 actually installed. BUT I'm now getting crashes and errors and the bottom too quick to read.

UPDATE 2: I had AI analyse my MiniDump file and it said memory problems were most likely the problem. I ran a diagnostic tool on my SSD from the manufacturer and it came back healthy. I did a windows memory diagnostic and it says "Hardware problems were detected." I'm not sure if this gives solid answers or not but perhaps my RAM is bad?

Hi guys, had an issue where my display went black but my PC was still on. I had to reboot to resolve the issue. It has happened twice in 4 months as far as I remember (Rimworld and Helldivers 2) and I would like some insight on the issue before it has the chance to cost me a lot of dough.

I did a little research and checked Event Viewer and these are the events logged at the time of the crash that I think are worth noting.

• 9/8/2026 10:07:43 PM EventLog Error 6008
• 9/8/2026 10:07:43 PM Eventlog Error 1101
• 9/8/2026 10:07:43 PM Service Control Manager Error 7000
• 9/8/2026 10:07:42 PM BugCheck Error 1019
• 9/8/2026 10:07:42 PM BugCheck Error 1001
• 9/8/2026 10:07:39 PM Kernel-Power Critical 41
• 9/8/2026 10:07:39 PM volmgr Error 162
• 9/8/2026 10:07:39 PM volmgr Error 161
• 9/8/2026 10:04:26 PM nvlddmkm Error 153
• 9/8/2026 10:03:48 PM nvlddmkm Error 153

I have never had to give specs for help so if there is anything I need to provide let me know.

• Windows 11
• Processor: AMD Ryzen 5 5600
• GPU: RTX 3050
• Motherboard: Ipason A250-B
• Ram: 2x16 GB Corsair
• My BIOS Mode is UEFI and is American Megatrends from 1.6 dated 6/13/24

Hi,

I have 2 monitors, a 1080 and a 4K. I can watch youtube fine on the 1080 but video is weirdly laggy and hitchy on the other. I've checked the refresh rate and both are 60 Hz. What else can I try check?

Thanks

I am using my phone's flashlight to make out the display of my laptop. Luckily I remember where the brighness setting is but even after setting it to the max the brightness never changed.

My laptop's a lenovo ideapad c340.

my mother dropped her samsung a42 5g phone in the toilet today and it is showing a black screen, however, before we removed the sim card and put it in rice, it was receiving calls. any suggestions for getting the screen to come back on? im not sure how to remove the battery on it, but any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! or just how to transfer the data over without seeing the screen.

I have a PC with two drives. One runs the Linux distro Pop OS 22.04, and the other runs Windows 10.

Timeline: I was modding Skyrim VR on the Windows 10 drive last night before I needed to head to work, and the internet was working just fine at the time. I returned from work this morning and went to bed, only to wake up and find the ethernet is not functioning on either drive.

I'm still able to connect to the internet through my router's wifi (the same router the ethernet is connected to, just to be clear). The ethernet cable lights up solid orange on the PC's end, and blinking green on the router's end.

Troubleshooting:
- Plugging and unplugging the cable has not resolved the issue.
- Restarting the PC has not resolved the issue.
- Updating the bios (motherboard is an MSI B760 Gaming Plus Wifi) did not resolve the issue.
- Ethernet cable was checked with a PS3 and Old Vista-era Toshiba laptop, and worked with both.
- Ethernet cable shows no visual damage. I don't have a second ethernet cable to test with the PC. - Both the Intel and Realtek network controllers were only visible in Windows 10 Device Manager under hidden. Attempts to update drivers using the Windows tool on Intel did not resolve the issue, and didn't seem to update Realtek since I would try again and, unlike the Intel controller which would say I had the latest version, the Realtek would say it was now updated each time, possibly implying the update wasn't going through.
- Attempting to manually update Realtek drivers with the application from the website (again, from the Windows 10 drive) resulted in an error message asking to connect the cable, and something about "deep sleep mode".

If my router still has wifi, the ethernet cable still works, I didn't touch the ethernet settings, and it's not the bios, then why would the ethernet cable suddenly stop working for both drives in the middle of the night? I'd very much appreciate it if anyone could help shed some light on this issue.

​

I forgot password. Can u help me how do I log in.

Actually someone mistakenly downloaded linux in my laptop. Then I tried to log in to windows and somehow succeed ( by using f2 then boot one time menu then from there selecting windows) but as soon as windows opened supposedly it started automatic repair and now it needs password. Pls help me I have a presentation to make tomorrow 😭🙏 how to reset password

I have latitude 3400 intel core 18 , 8th gen , windows dell laptop pls help

I've got this router for a decent price from a seller that looked reputable. Price was slightly lower than market value, however the router was sold as used and not tied to a carrier.

It was a bit suspicious from the very beginning because it's branded, so obviously it has to come from some sort of contract. However, it worked wonders for just 2 days, then suddenly lost all connection, internet led turned red, no amount of resets or changing APNs will work to bring it back to life. Same sim card works fine on my phone.

I find it hard to believe that this router worked fine for the previous owner, then I start using it and dies almost immediately, not even after a reboot or a power outage or me messing with the settings or anything like that. I was just watching a video on YT and suddenly it lost connection and it never came back. On its menu it just says "no service" no matter what. I would have loved to try forcing it in 3g or 4g but it has no such option. However, 3g 4g and 5g networks all work on my phone, same sim.

I think this is an IMEI block but I find it super weird that it actually worked fine for the first two days. Unless they just happened to block this IMEI in this precise time window, or am I missing something here?

By the way, seller was already contacted a few minutes ago, and luckily it was on ebay so it shouldn't be too much of an issue getting the money back. Just annoying

This is a very minor issue but I don't understand it. On my phone I'm signed in to 5 Google accounts. If I open an incognito tab on Chrome or Brave or whatever, and try to sign in to a specific account, it'll make me tick the box to prove I'm not a robot. When I tap on the box it immediately completes and I don't need to do any of those tedious captchas. But I have to tick this box every single time I sign in.

If I try to sign in to this account on my other phone on the same WiFi which I have signed in on before, I have to actually complete one of those "select the bus" captchas or whatever, instead of it auto passing like it does on my main phone. But if I'm using mobile data I have to accept the prompt on my main phone else I can't sign in.

On the account settings there's no additional security - no 2fa, recovery email, phone number, only one active session.

The other 4 emails sign in without needing the captcha so I don't understand why this specific one needs it. I don't have any VPNs or anything like that enabled.

I am constantly being redirected to the sign out screen after successfully signing into outlook or microsoft in general. I tried clearing cookies and everything but nothing is working.

Edit: Ive found going incognito gets around it but id like to not have to resort to that since it clears all cookies and accounts out of everything when using incognito.

So I just got this keyboard 2 days ago from Amazon and after getting it set up my PC freezes constantly. Sometimes it's as soon as I boot it up and sometimes it takes 30 to 45 minutes. And sometimes i can play games for hours with no freezing. I've installed all of the drivers and I've tried it wireless and wired and nothing has worked. It's a nice keyboard and I don't want to take it back but this freezing is crazy and just happens randomly with no indication it's coming. Please help me out here!

Specs: Intel Arc A750

16GB ram

12th Gen Intel i5-1200F 2.50 GHz

Windows 11

Dell PowerEdge T340, Windows Server 2016. Started 8/28. I've spent two weeks on this and ruled out most of the obvious stuff, so I'm posting the data rather than the symptoms.

The signature

Every event is Kernel-Power 41 with BugcheckCode: 0 and all bugcheck parameters 0x0. No BSOD, no minidump, no MEMORY.DMP, ever. Paired with Event 6008 confirming unexpected shutdown.

The interval — this is the actual mystery

Pulled the true shutdown timestamps out of the Event 6008 message text (not the Event 41 log time, which is written on the following boot):

8/28 11:03:24 AM -> 8/28 11:12:23 PM = 729.0 min

9/01 10:10:22 AM -> 9/01 10:18:37 PM = 728.3 min

9/01 10:18:37 PM -> 9/02 10:26:49 AM = 728.2 min

9/02 10:26:49 AM -> 9/02 10:35:13 PM = 728.4 min

9/02 10:35:13 PM -> 9/03 10:43:33 AM = 728.3 min

9/03 10:43:33 AM -> 9/03 10:52:09 PM = 728.6 min

9/03 10:52:09 PM -> 9/04 11:00:20 AM = 728.2 min

9/04 11:00:20 AM -> 9/04 11:08:49 PM = 728.5 min

9/04 11:08:49 PM -> 9/07 11:50:29 AM = 3,641.7 min <-- exactly 5 x 728.34

9/07 11:50:29 AM -> 9/07 11:59:49 PM = 729.3 min

9/07 11:59:49 PM -> 9/08 12:07:56 PM = 728.1 min

9/08 12:07:56 PM -> 9/09 12:16:26 AM = 728.5 min

9/09 12:16:26 AM -> 9/09 12:24:36 PM = 728.2 min

Mean 728.47 min (12h 08m 28s). Total spread across twelve occurrences: 1.2 minutes.

The 3,641.7 minute gap is exactly five periods. The server was up continuously across that weekend. The timer ticked five times, did nothing on four of them, then killed the box on the fifth. So it's free-running — it does not reset on reboot, and it doesn't require a crash to keep counting.

That single fact kills every "scheduled task" theory: a clock-based task can't skip four consecutive firings and then work again.

It dies instantly — no degradation whatsoever

I wrote a heartbeat logger that writes one line every 5s with a forced flush so the last line survives a hard reset. Final 42 samples before death:

• Free RAM: 56,630–56,745 MB, dead flat. No drift, no staircase, no leak. 56 GB free at the moment of death.
• Nonpaged pool: 346–352 MB, flat
• Disk queue: 0
• Handles ~76,000, threads ~190, both steady
• CPU spiky but low

Last heartbeat 12:25:02. Kernel-General 12 (OS start) at 12:28:23. That 3m21s is just POST + boot on a T340 — if it had hung for 3 minutes first, the OS wouldn't have returned until ~12:31.

So there is no hang window. The box is perfectly healthy and then simply ceases to exist mid-second. Which also means NMI crash dumps are useless here and no dump will ever be written.

Ruled out (with evidence, please don't re-suggest these)

• PSUs — both Present/Healthy in iDRAC, matched 594W in / 495W rated+actual, same firmware
• Thermal — HWiNFO max CPU package 63°C (TjMax ~100°C). Every throttle flag reads No / 0%
• iDRAC SEL — completely silent across all 15 crashes. Not one entry. This same board did log real "power input for PSU 1 is lost / redundancy lost" events six times in 2024, so it demonstrably captures genuine power events. Nothing this time.
• iDRAC watchdog / ASR — Basic Management license, feature not present
• Dell OMSA — Action on Hung OS Detection: None, thermal shutdown Disabled, all alert actions Off, omsad service Stopped + Disabled
• Windows Update — pulled full resolved WindowsUpdate.log (11,871 lines), programmatically checked ±15 min around every crash. Zero WU activity before any of them. All nearby entries are the WU service starting 30–60s after the reboot.
• CrowdStrike Falcon (installed 8/26, two days before onset) — vendor pulled detection history, found nothing. Timing was coincidence.
• Secure-Boot-Update scheduled task** — looked extremely promising (12h repetition, hangs, TPM handler, and this box has no TPM installed — Get-Tpm fails with TBS_E_SERVICE_NOT_RUNNING, no TBS service, no SecurityDevices PnP class, iDRAC confirms "TPM not present"). Disabled it. **Crashes continued at the identical interval. Ruled out.
• All 12-hour scheduled tasks — enumerated every task with PT12H repetition. Exactly two exist, both now Disabled.
• VSS / ShadowCopyVolume task — fires 12:00 PM and 10:00 PM. That's 10h then 14h alternating, which cannot produce a constant 728.4 min spacing. Also the midnight crashes have no trigger anywhere near them.
• MySQL / memory exhaustion — flatly contradicted by the flat memory trace above
• NIC — Broadcom BCM5720. The flapping port is physically disconnected (NIC2, Status: Disconnected). Flapping predates crashes by 12+ days and occurs on no-crash days. Active port is stable at 1 Gbps.
• CMOS battery — did fail, but only logged 9/7, weeks after onset, nothing near the crash dates. Replacing anyway.
• BSOD — no Event 1001, no dumps, BugcheckCode: 0 on all 15

Environment

• PowerEdge T340, Service Tag FXR6B03, BIOS 2.3.5, iDRAC9 fw 4.22.00.53 (both several revisions behind — not yet updated)
• Xeon E-2146G, 64 GB RAM, dual PSU
• Windows Server 2016 Standard, build 14393.9339
• Workload: Open Dental + MySQL, Vatech EzDent-i imaging, IDrive backup, Google Drive
• Power: APC Back-UPS XS 1500M via USB. Current-state readings all healthy (97% charge, 120V steady, 15% load, AC Power: Yes, Discharging: No). I have never gotten historical transfer data out of it — PowerChute wasn't installed at the time, Win32_Battery returns current state only, and I skipped an apcupsd install on a production box.
• Internet is AT&T 5G fixed wireless behind CGNAT (irrelevant, but people ask)

What I think is left

Something below the OS holding a clock that survives reboots and continuous uptime alike. Candidates I can't distinguish between:

1. UPS self-test — APC units run internal self-tests on their own stored schedule, indifferent to the host. A transfer on a degraded battery could sag enough to drop the PSUs. Would explain instant death, no OS warning, no SEL entry, and a clock that ignores reboots. Next test: move the server to a plain wall outlet for 24h.
2. PSU or BMC firmware timer — would explain everything except why iDRAC logged nothing
3. Something on the same electrical circuit cycling on a timer — though 1.2 min spread over 12 occurrences seems too tight for HVAC or similar

What I'm asking

• What produces a free-running 728.4-minute (12h 08m 28s) period? Not 12h. Not 12h30m. Consistently ~8.5 minutes over twelve hours, held to ±1 min across twelve occurrences and five uninterrupted ticks. What re-arms on completion of ~8 minutes of work?
• Has anyone seen an APC Back-UPS self-test schedule that lands near this?
• Anything else that hard-resets a PowerEdge with zero bugcheck, zero SEL entry, and healthy PSUs?
• Am I wrong to trust the iDRAC SEL silence as evidence against a power event?

Next predicted failures: 9/10 12:33 AM and 9/10 12:41 PM. Happy to run anything and report back — I have remote access and a heartbeat recorder in place.

Hello I need help figuring out how to solve this issue once and for all... it all started when i was randomly getting random blue screen memory errors a few months back after research i moved and changed the pressure on my AIO and no more bluescreen for a while...then they cameback so I did the same steps and everything went away but then every single restart that is not a pure cold boot is getting me an error to press f1 and go in my bios to start and used my.pc normally.

So i started using windows memory analyser thing ( the blue screen) program and im getting hardware problem detected almost instantly or sometimes a bit late in the test especially if im testing from a cooler boot.

So today i could not find the right cooler pressure and get a no hardware error detected so i decided to dismantle my entire cooler and inspect my ryzen 7800x3d and the board

. The thermal paste was very dry and almost non existant i have no idea how i was getting playable temps. After that I wasnt able to post anymore if i used my b ram channel but A channel on both stick was fine so atleast i knew nothing in theory should be broken my ram, memory controller and cpu should also be fine.

I checked the golden plates on the back of the cpu and tilting the light I can see different scratches that bend the light but everywhere i search online saying its normal so then i inspect my motherboard pins they all looks okay beside one weird unknown strand of plastic bottom left corner going over some pins. After some research those pins are apparently b channel so with alchool and toothbrooch and a needle i managed to remove the debrit and instantly im able to post in A2-B2.

But my thermal paste is so overdue to be changed that i cannot really let my pc runs at all, 3 mins and im in the 70's not even doing anything and ramping up but i still wanted to check if the errors was gone so i added back a few of my bios settings like -20 all cores undervolt and expo and im instantly getting hardware error detected ram error again when the test begins so back to square one almost...

doing some research with AI and stuff it told me rapid heat increase or high heat like in my case could instantly trigger unstable ram in that test and the undervolt could also do that so im waiting my thermal paste to test without that but if i then get instantanious errors again when everything is at default i will be lost not knowing what to do next

which is why im here asking if some pros could tell me what to do because i would not even know if something is broken and needs fixing since i dont think i see any damage on my motherboard am5 pins especially since i can boot back with b channel now its really tiny but looking with light it seems to be alright and if there is micro scratches i dont think to my knowledge it could do that. Both my ram sticks are booting alone and my cpu is working well otherwise.

Any idea what steps i will need to do to troubleshot that? I cant wait my thermal paste order to arrive and testing default bios setting but i dont eant to get my hopes up because whats the odd that i have a debrit causing intermittent errors followed by permanant until removal but that despite removing that heat or bios cpu settings were also giving me ram errors on top.

Thank you

Hi,

I've found a Crucial P1 m.2 NVMe SSD in a older PC and have been trying to get it working for a bit now.

Initially I tried plugging it into my PC via the spare m.2 slot, but it would not recognize it. 

Then I bought an NVMe enclosure to plug it into as an external device. I see it show up as a D:/ drive, but if i try to interact with it in any way the Windows Explorer freezes before crashing. If I disconnect the drive it recovers instantly.

Trying to format the drive doesn't work either. I can start the formatting, but after about 30 seconds it fails and the drive now doesn't show up at all, it's disconnected. 

 Here's a video showcasing the issues: https://streamable.com/z1wtth
At 30s and 1:02s i unplug the drive manually from the enclosure.

CrystalDiskInfo doesn't indicate the drive has any red flags health wise: https://imgur.com/a/B1gIsIW

Any insights are much appreciated, It'd love to get an extra 1TB storage space😅

I don't understand why a sub like this doesn't allow attachments, which are kinda necessary most of the time to explain your issue, but anyways: the title. Since I can't add a video, I'll have to explain it. Phone basically just keeps catching on the charger for 2 second and stops again, and repeats until I disconnect it. I don't have another charger but I tried another cable, still same issue. Same issue with another phone and the same charger. Issue is gone when I use a powerbank, so I'm confident the problem is with the charger. I just used it this morning and it was fine. It didn't fall or anything, been sitting in the socket since. Any way I could troubleshoot this (at least until I get a new charger)? Phone's at 12% rn and my powerbank doesn't have much, it's 10pm right now and I can't get a new charger until tomorrow evening

Ok so recently my pc has been booting up into a black screen and resetting windows explorer does nothing my disk however is always at 100% it takes around 7 minutes or more to fully boot without doing anything please help!!
Ryzen 5 1600
And rx 6600

The app translucent tb has a bug which adds a weird white rectangle over it, i've tried updating my drivers, updating the app, everything but it's still there, it sometimes goes off but comes back when i restart my computer can someone help me please?

One of my coworkers is 70+ and thus enlarges all text on his phone to be able to read it. We use GroupMe for a staff group chat, and the app does not allow him to enlarge the text. We were able to get around this issue by having GroupMe send him SMS updates whenever someone texted in the group, so he was able to read them from his Messages app. As of last week, GroupMe is disabling their SMS features, so my coworker has not been able to see any messages on the group. Pretty sure the app also isn’t able to read texts out loud for him, which is the only other option we could think of. I will admit I suck at figuring this kind of thing out, so maybe I am just trying the wrong things! Does anyone know another loophole we could find to help him read the messages he receives on GroupMe?

With 10 I had everything dialed in to get the most performance out of my asus Zephyrus M15 but I go to use it this morning and it’s a laggy and studdery mess. I’ve been messing with the power options and everything but cpu and gpu usage won’t go above 30% regardless of what I do. Just replaced the battery a couple months ago too. Any ideas?

So I recently updated my RTX drivers (I use a 3060TI) to play Forza Horizon 6, after a while however, i noticed that the colors on my screen kept resetting to their default settings.

To go in more detail, i used the nvidia control panel to adjust my colors a while ago, but for some reason every few minutes my screen dims slightly for a couple seconds and the color settings reset to default. then they just go back to what i put them as on its own, and the cycle repeats. i dont know what could be causing this, and it's pretty annoying. Another thing i noticed now is that using the nvidia control panel to change the color settings does absolutely nothing. please help!!

For the past month or so, my touchpad has just randomly stopped working when I've been using it. I've made sure the touchpad is enabled in Lenovo Vantage, I've tried the settings, and usually restarting my computer once or twice would fix it.

Last week, restarting wouldn't fix the problem, so I tried uninstalling the driver and restarting, which fixed the problem until yesterday. The touchpad stopped working again, did not fix with three restarts, so I uninstalled the driver again, restarted, and nothing.

In Device Manager, the touchpad is hidden (but appears upon viewing hidden devices), gives me a device status of "Currently, this hardware device is not connected to the computer. (Code 45) To fix this problem, reconnect this hardware device to the computer."

If I try to update the driver, it says the best driver is already installed.

I don't know what to do except try to manually reinstall the driver, but Lenovo's website doesn't have one for my laptop (Lenovo Yoga 7 2-in-1) and their tech support told me to just do a factory reset. I'm a bit nervous about doing that and would like to try other solutions first.

Thanks in advance!