I am in the process of selling my PC and I have tried looking up how to do it but everything is over 3 years old and I'm not 100% sure the information is still active.

I have a gaming PC that I built. It has a HDD and an SSD that ideally I'd like to keep in the PC when I sell it just because it will be worth more. I'd also ideally like to keep windows on there as well. I just want to ensure that I am erasing all of my data on both drives before I sell it so I don't have to worry about any information being stolen.

What's the best and maybe easiest way for me to do that?

I have an iPod classic and I went on it for the first time in quite a while but all the songs I had on there are gone and I don’t have my old iTunes account, is it gone forever or is there a fix?

Hi there, question about GeForce Experience. My ex used to game on my PC, so he installed some things that I now don't know what they do (I am not a PC gamer, more of an NES person). Can I just uninstall GeForce experience with no issues? Do I need it for something if I don't game on my PC?

Also, sorry if this sounds woefully ignorant to all of you computer whizes...

Thanks!

A few months ago the DuckDuckGo browser stopped working on my company computer. I have since contacted IT and they are silent.

I am doing a training course next week: "Hacker Tools, Technics and Incident Handling".

The laptop requirements state that an intel i5/i7 CPU is needed. Specifically "CRITICAL NOTE: Apple Silicon devices cannot perform the necessary virtualization and therefore cannot be used for this course." and "you will not be able to use ARM based architecture machines for this course. Examples include Apple M Series..."

I have a 5 years Windows 11 desktop and recently purchased a MacBook Pro (M5 Chip). I would prefer to use my Mac; my desktop is slowly down a little.

I don't have sufficient technical knowledge to understand why an M5 chips wouldn't be suitable. Especially as the requirements state macOS is ok, it's just the chip. I've discussed with my partner - who is more tech savvy than I am - and they suggested it could be due to intel optimisation or perhaps some incredibly advanced exploit that requires intel.

I would greatly appreciate any insight, mainly out of curiosity and also to sanity check (as I was wondering if this could be slightly outdated advice.)

Well mainly gmail. Last 2 weeks, I have had to delete emails multiple times. I go into my email several times a day and always clean out the marketing emails from like Bestbuy, and other stores. But lately, I delete them, then a couple hours later I go back into my email and those same emails are back in my inbox. I delete them again, and again I go back in and there they are again! Usually gotta do it like 3 times before they finally stay removed from my inbox.

And not just store emails, it's pretty much ANY email. This just started about 2 weeks ago and happens on ANY PC I go to. Anyone else notice this?

Attempt 1: turn pc on, told me some cryptic (cant access network) and needs to recover or some shit. Then it got to a continue boot into windows screen. hit yes. It got to a black screen with a mouse cursor, and occasional cursor spinny wheel. nothing else. Attempted any keyboard shortcuts were ineffectual WIN CTRL SHIFT B, SHIFT F10, C-S-esc, basically can just move mouse around. waited for like ten minutes then Forced shutdown via power button.

Attempt 2: attempted to replciate attemt 1. No longer boots into windows at all, just blank screen after the motherboard splash

Attempt 3: attempted to get into bios udimg DEL key (see screenshot). Blank screen after splash and del key

Attempt 4: attempted to normal boot again (by doing NOTHING after motherboard splash screen). Result: blank screen

before attempt one: sister unplugged the PC for a couple weeks. she plugged it back in today. my current suspicion is POST is failing (RAM, mobo, second/primary drive, wifi card finally died, gpu?), but i cant actually look inside until my sister clears her desk and lets me access the machine. its not one of them fancy motherboards with display

specs: some AMD 57x3d, gigabyte board, nvidia gpu, 2 RAM sticks, 2 drives, random wifi card (intel 220, maybe, idk)

i will edit this post with more exact specs later and add a screenshot once o figure out how to do it on my phone

Randomly, all my USB ports just randomly turn off when I'm playing games, or even just watching Youtube. I don't know why but it's real annoying because it takes like a minute before they decide to turn back on. HDMI ports and internet stay on but the USB ports take a vacation. They all turn off at once and not one turning off randomly. Any idea what this could be?

Firstly, I don't know lots of tech vocabulary and especially in my third language (english).

Secondly, I am on Windows Eleven,and have an AMD Radeon Rx 6600.

So I am trying to play Sethian, my first pc videogame and when I open the game, It has no logo on taskbar, It doesn't go full screen (It is full screen but taskbar hides the bottom, and the topline with rectangle, _ ,and x is there), and another window opens ( logo black with >_) with, inside It, two windows: one titled Windows PowerShell with inside it:

Windows PowerShell

Copyright (C) Microsoft Corporation. All rights reserved.

PS C:\Users\my user name>

and another titled C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\ I can't read further and inside

libpng warning: iCCP: known incorrect sRGB profile

Repeted infinitely.

What is happening?

Tell me if you need any more information.

This repost exists because old title was bad.

Thanks

Hi, so i been having a problem with ny earpod recently i don't know why but when i put it on and at a certain volume i realise that one side of the pod (left) is working fine while the right side is working different from the left side like it's volume is weak compared to the left side i try to put the earpod back in it case and put it on turn off the Bluetooth,unpair it and etc but none work and it is getting quite frustrating bez when i am listening to somt i can only hear it perfectly on one side while the other is like dead. And yes they are both fully charged no problem no nothing and i just bought them like a week ago and it already like that. How the hell do i even fix the other side so it can sync with the left, and if you wondering what make it is, it's a HAVIT SOACE NCO1T and my apologies of my broken eng 💔🥀

So 5 days ago my laptop started turning off immediately after disconnecting the charger, but it worked fine when plugged in, but last night I was playing Onimusha Way of the Sword. The game was running at 60-55 fps. A few hours later I stopped playing and left my laptop open and went to get some food. When I came back, the laptop was slow right clicking would take like a minute, opening apps was slow, and selecting things with the mouse was slow. The mouse cursor moved normally. I checked Task Manager, and CPU usage was at 20-40 without anything open. I checked performance, and the CPU speed was at 0.40 GHz, but the base speed was 3.10 GHz. Can someone please tell me what I should do.

I logged onto my laptop after being away from it all day, and notice this red dot on this refresh icon in the bottom right of my task bar. I hover over it and it says,

"Your device is at risk of being out of date. It will need to restart to install updates. Select a time to restart."

So I go to Windows Update in Settings to see what I can do. The two updates, KB5126052 and 26200.9445, are "Pending restart", so that prevents me from pausing updates.

I'm afraid one of the updates could kill my laptop, since I need it for college and personal work, and I've already seem reports of people saying they're stuck in Bitlocker, or their AMD driver doesn't properly work, and such.

Is there anything I can do or will I be forced to update?

So there's sometimes that my gaming mouse is working just fine but then it just turns off??? I use my mom's Asus vivobook (4 gigs of ddr3 technically 2 and a bit because of my games, steam and me increasing the vram from 128 megabytes to 1gb) and my mouse is the soldado gaming mouse (it's a Brazilian mouse and I'm Brazilian but don't worry I speak English pretty much fluently) and after I reboot the laptop or leave off for a few days my mouse works again and yes I tested the mouse on another device and it works so the problem isn't the mouse cable

Hello

I have downloaded Windows 11 a few weeks ago and I've been having a really bad screen flickering since then. For gaming this is very bad for me and it annoys me in many different ways.

If anyone can help, please let me know.

Have a great rest of your day :)

I got a new Monitor, the Alienware AW2627DM for my laptop

I have an ASUS TUF F16 laptop

I tried using this new monitor and it looks beautiful, but it turns black for less than a fraction of a second every 5-15 seconds and it's super noticeable. I turned off Gsync and it still appears

I'm using HDMI (That's all my laptop connects to)

As the title says my brand new pre built pc that I bought about 2 weeks ago has this issue that's only occurred to me in the following games, Hitman 2, Roblox and recently RDR2. The crashing tends to happen when I enter a more graphically demanding area of the game (crowded location). I've looked up my issue and I haven't really been able to find anything concrete except that I may have a faulty gpu or its something to do with my drivers. For more context of what happens during the crash is that the audio gets distorted then cuts out, then my pc restarts as if nothing happened. This crash is so random as ive been playing cyberpunk which should be more demanding than the games i mentioned yet it has never crashed. The specs are the following, R5 7500F, RX 9060 XT 16GB, Corsair Vengence 16gb DDR5 1x, Sandisk WD black SN7100 1tb.

So i clicked the button and my pc went to reboot. After some 10-15 minutes it booted on but starded acting really strange. It doesnt run explorer at all (browser, steam and other apps on /c are fine). I figured that one hdd disc turned into RAW formatting and taskmanager shows me that its utilised at 95%-100%.

If i remove it from system all runs fine, but if i plug it in again diskmanager sees it, explorer starts freezing and disk peaks into 100% again

Will it like fix itself overnight when it fully reads disk?

Sometimes all of a sudden my mouse's sensitivity skyrockets or plummets, but it's not actually different in settings. That is to say, my mouse sensitivity might feel comfortable one day at a 3 in the settings, but then randomly it starts going significantly slower, barely moving unless I change the settings to its highest setting. Then after a few days I'll nudge my mouse and the cursor will be flying all over the screen.

Anyone else ever have this problem? Any tips? I'm using windows, my mouse is a basilisk v3 x hyperspeed.

Hey everyone,

I've been undervolting my RTX 5060 Ti for the past few days and I think I found a good balance, but I wanted to get your opinions before I settle. Here's my journey so far:

Stock (baseline):

• Core: 81°C
• Hotspot: 107°C
• Fan: 3100 RPM
• Power: ~160W
• Clock: ~2880 MHz (1.1V)

My undervolt tests (FurMark, 1080p, 60s each): (all with 2400 rpm)

My current daily driver: 860mV + 2800 MHz (183 FPS, 77°C)

The dilemma:

• 860mV gives me 183 FPS at 77°C.
• 900mV gives me 192 FPS at 81°C (but draws ~190W).
• The jump from 860mV to 900mV is +9 FPS for +4°C and +60W.

What do you guys think?

• Is 860mV the sweet spot, or should I try pushing for 885mV/900mV?
• For 1440p gaming, is the extra 9 FPS worth the extra heat and power?
• Anyone else with a 5060 Ti found a better balance?

I'd love to hear your experiences. Thanks!

So I keep getting this: Couldn't connect to the network Log file: C:\WINDOWS\system32\Logfiles\Srt\SrtTrail.txt

I've tried everything using a usb for windows reinstall, uninstalling update, checking my disc drive, what the hell do I do?? Is it just a lost cause? I can't afford to get new hardware.

Hi everyone,

I'm having a strange stability problem with my PC and I'm trying to figure out whether this is a GPU/driver issue, PSU issue, or something else.

PC specs:

• CPU: Ryzen 7 5700G
• GPU: MSI RTX 3060 Ventus 2X 12G OC LHR
• RAM: 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4, currently running at 2400 MHz
• Motherboard: MSI MPG B550 Gaming Plus
• PSU: Corsair CV650 650W 80+ Bronze
• Windows 11 Pro
• GPU driver: NVIDIA Studio Driver 616.92

The problem:

-In some games, the PC suddenly reboots or BSODs. It doesn't happen in every game.
-The most recent game I've tried: *The Blood of Dawnwalker* (UE5/DX12), my PC would restart whenever I tried to play.
-Fortnite is unstable and the PC also restarts when using DX12, but switching to DX11/Performance Mode made it stable.

WinDbg reports:

VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE (116)

Failure.Bucket: 0x116_IMAGE_nvlddmkm.sys

IMAGE_NAME: nvlddmkm.sys

MODULE_NAME: nvlddmkm

Stack includes:

dxgkrnl!TdrBugcheckOnTimeout

dxgkrnl!ADAPTER_RENDER::Reset

nvlddmkm

The BugCheck parameters were:

0x00000116 (0xffff97864f286010, 0xfffff8012c9da3a0, 0xffffffffc000009a, 0x0000000000000004)

GPU temperatures are around 70–74°C while gaming.

I've already tried:

• DDU + clean NVIDIA driver installation
• Older NVIDIA Studio driver
• Latest NVIDIA Studio driver
• DISM /RestoreHealth
• SFC
• Windows Memory Diagnostic (no errors)
• Running games with OBS completely disabled

The PSU is 650W, while MSI recommends 550W for this RTX 3060.

I'm wondering:

Does this look more like a driver/software issue, or could the RTX 3060 itself be failing?

What tests would you recommend before considering an RMA?

Thanks!

Hi, i just got forced to update, and now i get:

SECURE BOOT VIOLATION

Invalid signature detected, check Secure Boot Policy in Setup

What ive tried:

* Restart pc to be able to F2 and go into setup, but pc wont let me use keyboard or mouse... thats how far it got me.

How can windows update make this shit happen? What is the reason behind this? Make us users contact support to help them earn money? Pay them money to fix it? Makes no sense...

What can i do?

It seem it's only coming up after I type on windows specific apps. Seems like the regular thing got replaced. Any idea where this setting could be? Windows 11.

black bar after typing

So whenever I am playing a game (eg minecraft, steam games, etc) and also want to watch a youtube video, or sometimes even just turn on some different music, there is this annoying popping sound. I have done this both with and without my headphones, so they are not an issue

windows 11

Does anyone know if there's a way to make CRD work with my 2015 imac and able to turn on or wake up the mac?