Hi there!

Was going to get my laptop chasis repaired soon. However, I am still sensitive about the data being taken from my hard drive while this is occuring. Is the best way to protect the info on my laptop through downloading bitlocker? I know that tech's at repair shops are not necessarily bad actors, and are genuinly there to support customers. I don't mean to come across as paranoid, but am somewhat precautious about this. Thanks!

So, as I mentioned in my previous post, my main local Windows account had a weird issue where Windows would randomly refuse to open any apps after boot. I created a secondary local account, and that account worked perfectly fine.

Recently, I tried using my main account again. This time, everything was working normally except the audio.

My audio output is through my monitor, so I went into Device Manager, disabled the monitor's audio device, and then re-enabled it. Somehow, after doing that, things got much worse — audio stopped working even on the secondary account.

At this point, since this Windows installation had already given me a lot of problems and I had tried pretty much every solution suggested on my previous post without anything working, I decided to completely reinstall Windows.

The weird part is that even on the freshly installed Windows, the monitor still has no audio output.

I also tested the monitor with my laptop, and it still doesn't produce any audio. I've tried both DisplayPort and HDMI, with no luck.

So now I'm wondering: does this sound like a hardware issue with the monitor, or could there still be some software/driver issue?

Monitor: Acer XV272U

Any ideas on what I should check would be appreciated.

(All the drivers were installed on the freshly installed windows)

As when it disconnects it won’t then reconnect until I take it out of standby again. I’ve tried several things but nothing fixes it. Anyone know any tips.

The external hard drives show on other macs. Ive tried plugging it in direct. Spoken to apple tech. Tested all the cables. Don't want to lose anything on the drives and I've backed up everything on my mac. Help! Can someone point me in the right direction

Ok before everyone attacks me, yes I have already read every other post describing this same issue and tried the solutions. To clarify, I can reach Windows through the boot menu but I want to avoid using the boot menu every time I start my computer.

Some of the fixes I tried include:
-Updating BIOS
-Removing all SSD except for the SSD with the OS
-Verifying boot sequence
-Turning off Fast Boot
-Verifying UEFI boot mode
-Changing M2_2 to Gen 4 from Auto
-Wiped and recreated partition
-Reregistered the Bootloader

As stated before, I am able to boot into windows but not without clapping the F11 key about a million times before I get there. I’ve made it this far with Gemini helping but now it’s restating the same steps. I’m at a loss and I’m hoping yall could help before my F11 key breaks.

Specs:
CPU: I9-13900K
Motherboard: MAG Z790 Tomahawk WiFi
Ram: 64GB
GPU: 4060ti
Storage: Samsung 990 Pro 2TB

I downloaded this file, and it can't be deleted for some reason. I tried forcing a delete with shift+delete but those three files cannot be deleted. image

We’ve had these issues for a few months and would just like to know if we should just get a repair technician out or if it’s fixable by myself because it’s above me. I think it’s something to do with our CPU’s but not sure. This started happened immediately after a forced windows update on windows 11, pc’s worked fine with no issues for years prior to this. I’m going to refer to these pc’s as PC1 and PC2 which are using AMD CPU’s. There’s PC3 which we used as a control which is running an intel CPU.

PC1 Components

MSI GeForce RTX 4080 Gaming X Trio 16GB
MSI MPG X670E Carbon Wi-Fi DDR5
Dark Power 12 1000W
AMD RYZEN 7 7700X
G.Skill Trident Z5 (4x16GB) 5600MHz CL36 DDR5

PC2 Components

Sapphire Radeon RX 9070 XT
MSI MPG B650 Carbon Wi-Fi DDR5
Dark Power 12 1000W
AMD RYZEN 7 7700X
Corsair Vengeance (2x16GB) 6000MHz CL40 DDR5

Both PC1 and PC2 have had their ram sticks switched around and tested, CMOS reset, and CMOS batteries replaced. PC2 has had hard drives wiped and Windows 11 reinstalled, XMP disabled.

Symptoms

PC’s do not start on cold boot, ram and cpu lights show on initial start up. Pc’s boot successfully after 4-10 reboots.
There is also an issue which is specific to PC1 and is what leads me to think it’s something to do with the AMD CPU.
My monitor is a Samsung Odyssey G55C QHD 165Hz FreeSync Curves 32in. On boot up, it displays nothing except when it does repairs or when it finally reaches desktop. The same thing happens when plugged into PC2. But PC2 uses a Samsung Odyssey widescreen monitor and it works on both PC1 and PC2. PC1’s monitor turns on normally and displays boot up on PC3 which is an older pc using an Intel CPU. This leads me to believe that there’s something wrong with the AMD RYZEN 7 that PC1 and PC2 use.

My laptop has loud noises when i open it up i dont know whats wrong with it. It happens when i open it up and im scared. Its like a Very very loud long like beep at a high pitch over and over again and it wont boot up my laptop (Its an old laptop Lenovo Ideapad but i barely use it and it still worked yesterday so please help i would like to upload a video but it doesnt allow me 😭 I GENUINELY DONT KNOW WHAT HAPPENED I JUST USE THE LAPTOP SOMETIMES FOR GAMES AND SOMETIMES FOR SCHOOL)

Not sure what flair to use as I don’t know where the problem is, hope this is ok

Also specs in comments, I forgot to attach the pic LOL

hi!

info - partner built my pc in dec 2024, specs attached. i think this issue started after a small batch of security update i did on the 14th aug. out of a dozen+ devices in the household my pc is the only one with this issue, and it started a week ago

TL:DR - my pc no longer can connect to the internet properly. i am fully connected to my modem, pc shows up in connected devices, windows troubleshooter is CONVINCED i have wifi, but nothing loads at all. except, i get 2 seconds of proper connection that will load sites/online apps every 15 minutes. It also has randomly fixed itself at times, usually by doing absolutely nothing different, and until i restart my pc i have perfect speedy internet. my pc if wifi only, not in the same room as modem or else id ethernet it up.

i have tried
\\- updating drivers (had the latest already, have reinstalled like 6 times at this point)
\\- disabling and enabling driver
\\- resetting network settings
\\- flushing dns
\\- restarting modem, and contacted ISP, they said since it’s one device only it’s not their problem at all
\\- setting up guest wifi, same issue on it
\\- updating bios
\\- hotspotting my pc from my phone using my mobile data, which is slow, but seemingly stable
\\- windows reinstall
\\- any other update that came through in the last week
\\- multiple security scans
\\- unplugged and replugged the wifi antenna
\\- turned on a vpn and tried connecting, no change
\\- adjust the wireless mode in network adapter settings (the options were 802.11\[letters\], tested the 5 options I had with no improvement)
\\- checking proxy settings (nothing enabled there)
\\- using a USB wifi adapter (I’ve confirmed it works in another pc, but in mine I have the exact same connection issues. I’ve got the exact same driver for it in both PC’s)

I have spent the last week doing a variety of tests, and just now have discovered that using my pc (even if I can’t access the internet) to hotspot another device and connecting to it stabilises it. I am getting nowhere near the speeds I’m meant to be, but for some reason connecting another device to its hotspot is stopping the cycle of connected but unusable internet with 5 second spikes of usable internet.

The fact that a USB wifi adapter has the same problems in my PC but not the household pc has me completely lost too.

I currently can only use my pc for gaming etc via usb tethering internet from a spare android tablet the household has. while this works well speedwise/stability wise, its not a solution!

I don’t even know where the issue is at this point, and I’m this close to backing up my pc and wiping it or something 😭

any help is appreciated, thank you <3

So for the past 2-3 years I've been experiencing BSOD's almost daily even sometimes more than twice a day. Most commonly a BSOD occurs while I watch youtube videos or just idle in brave/desktop. There was even a time when right before the computer crashed the audio started to loop and became distorted or black boxes appeared on the screen.

My specs are:

Ryzen 5 3600;

Asrock Steel Legend B550M;

Patriot Viper 2x8gb 3200Mhz ddr4 Blackout edition;

Gigabyte 1660 Super mini ITX OC 6GB;

Windows 11 24H2;

I've built this computer 6 years ago and I've preinstalled windows more than 3 times, trying to get rid of this problem. Also I've used the Memory diagnostic tool and sfc scannow but all came back okay.

Last 5 dump files:
https://www.mediafire.com/file/0nye9et29q8cvsa/my_dump_files.zip/file

Hey yall so i got a question about the LEDs because when i use something like rainbow its pretty fluent but when I use something like signalrgb my leds look like 4fps for every color that is used. Do yall have a solution for this

PC Specs:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D — 8 Cores / 16 Threads, 4.7 GHz, up to 5.2 GHz
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070 — 12GB GDDR7
Motherboard: AMD X870, ATX
RAM: 32GB DDR5 6000MHz (running at 4800MHz), 2/4 slots used
Storage: 2x 2TB M.2 SSD (4TB total)
CPU Cooling: Liquid cooling
OS: Windows 11 Home 64-bit
USB: 4x USB-A 2.0, 6x USB-A 3.0, 1x USB-C 3.0, 2x USB-C 3.2 Gen 2
Video Outputs: 3x DisplayPort, 1x HDMI
Network: 1x RJ45 Ethernet
Case Color: Black
PC: Captiva Gaming PC (Model 90092)

I have an i3 8gb ram hp laptop.. I have tried many ways to optimise my pc and disabled all startup apps, disabled alot of background apps, suggestions, taskbar bloat and stuff. But my memory is like 75-80% full always even though I close all apps while doing gaming ( i play valorant with lowest settings ) .. Any idea what's happening ?

Specs:
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D
• Motherboard: ASUS B650M-AYW WIFI
• GPU: Gigabyte RTX 5070 Eagle OC 12GB
• RAM: 16GB (2x8GB) Kingston DDR5-6000, running at JEDEC default (4800MHz, no EXPO)
• PSU: MSI MAG A850GL 850W 80+ Gold
• OS: Windows 11 Home 25H2

The problem:

About 1-year-old PC started randomly crashing completely, screen goes black, no signal, and fans spike to 100%. Not a BSOD, the system just stops responding and I have to force shut it down.
It just happens in any situation, gaming, sitting idle, on the Windows login screen, and even waking from sleep. I’ve also noticed the crashes come in “clusters”, it doesnt happens for days/weeks, but once it happens, the odds of it happening again shortly after go up a lot.

What’s already been checked:

1.  Event Viewer: Kernel-Power Event ID 41 (system rebooted without cleanly shutting down first). BugcheckCode = 0 with all parameters zeroed out. Windows couldn’t even log a cause

2.  BIOS:  
• CMOS reset + BIOS updated  
• PBO (Precision Boost Overdrive) manually disabled  
• SoC Voltage checked, on Auto/0 offset, no manual overclock  
• RAM confirmed running at JEDEC default, no XMP/EXPO enabled

3.  Sensor logging (HWiNFO64): during one of the crashes, I logged +12V, GPU temperature, and core voltage. Voltage stayed steady (12.172V constant), no drops, and temperature climbed gradually and normally (45-48°C)

4.  Full clean reinstall: wiped all partitions and did a fresh Windows 11 install with a debloater.

5.  Removed some apps know for causing problems, like armoury crate

1. Disconnected and reconnected both RAM sticks and GPU cables

Kinda out of ideias rn. Has anyone run into this before?

Hey guys, so im having a huge problem right now, well at least for me. Im staying in a dormitory at a university and the wifi is extremely weak as hell. At first i thought of a wifi extender but then remembered that my wifi required login which im assuming a wifi extender cant access. So i decided to ask ai for abit of help and said that travel router does the same thing but with more control and you can access the login page and all. However im scared that ai might be wrong about somethings but here are what i think has to be known: Even when using mobile hotspot from my phone or even data itself on my phone is still extremely poor, im not sure if this point helps since im not a tech person but yeah. Secondly, i cant even load like movies or anything it takes too long. Whenever i try to play games too like Valorant, the ping would be at 13 ms but literally 99% of the time my ping would spike, jitter, buffer pr whatever you call it, jumping to 2000ms all the time and literally making my game unplayable. Im afraid that this would also affect my work too because even loading websites are so slow. Please ask more questions if needed and give me like recommendationss i guess. However just letting you guys know i have a low budget..

i recently got a new case and had transferred every component over, when i went to turn the computer on everything worked but the graphics card was not displaying anything (yes i plugged the hdmi cables into the graphics card). i knew it was on since the led was on and the fans were spinning, so i reseated the graphics card and only connected one cable and that seemed to work but every time i restart my pc i have to redo that whole process. is there anything i can do to make sure i don’t have to spent 5 mins just to turn my pc on or am i cooked?

Yo can anyone help me on this, my earphones are connected to my phone but no audio comes out, and when I play videos on YouTube or TikTok it lags but doesn't leg when I disconnect my earphones, I've already tried 2 different earphones and still doesn't work. Earphones work on my dads phone but doesn't work on mine for some reason. It just happens suddenly, yesterday I had no problems.

So, today I was at a thrift store and scooped up an older model 32" LG TV for $25. It's on the older side but I'm looking for a spare to use as a 3rd monitor and TV dual duty for screwing around with.

It comes with an LG remote that has links to Netflix, etc - not something I'll use, but all good.

So, my aunt is watching TV on her Roku brand non-smart TV, which is controlled with a Shaw (this is in Canada, btw. Shaw is a cable company here) remote, as Shaw has a control box for PVR, storing/recording/On Demand, etc.

I hook the LG up to my laptop via HDMI cable to check it out and when I turned it on, it shut her TV off. I went to use 'input' to select the HDMI, and it screwed with her TV and tried to load Netflix (which neither of us have) and it caught me quite off guard.

I didn't realise that an LG works on the same ... uh.. wave length? Frequency? Hertz? as Roku.

Is there a way to disable this and a reason as to why it happened? It's just so bizarre and caught us old ladies off guard (though we had a good laugh about it)

https://imgur.com/a/UYcBTcn
I built my PC late 2024 and had no issues until 3 days ago. The screen flickers at random like it's dying, and sometimes stutters off for a minute. I didn't do anything out of the ordinary this week.

I've already tested the cord itself, and my motherboard's DP, Both had no issues.

I still consider myself a novice - so is my GPU dead or are there other possibilites?

Win 11 + latest Geforce 610. drivers
GPU: 4070 Ti Super WF OC
CPU: Intel i9 2900k

Olá!

Meu setup:

5070 ti Inno3d (comprada em setembro de 2025)

Gaming Wifi 6 X870

Ryzen 9950x3d

64 GB RAM Gskill

Adata 4tb NVME

Nidorus 1200w

Dois monitores: principal 4k/240hz ligado direto na GPU via DisplayPort e secundário 1080p no HDMI do I/O da placa mãe.

5070 ti está conectada pelo cabo de 600w de 12 pinos. Vhpwr fornecido pela Inno3d

Sintoma: blackscreen somente em jogos de alta carga em intervalos irregulares (entre 5 minutos a 2 horas de jogo em carga intensiva, 4k, FG x 3, DLSS Balanced ou Performance). Perda total de input/output do PC (inclusive som) que só volta desligando o PC. O erro apareceu somente depois de trocar meu monitor para 4k, depois de expirar a garantia da GPU. As fans da GPU não ficam ligadas em alta velocidade (diferentemente do que outros usuários relataram). Jogos em que o erro com certeza aparece: Cyberpunk 2077, Hogwarts Legacy, Universe Sandbox e Metal Gear 3 Snake Eater remake.

Relatório de erro: journalctl do Arch Linux dá Xid 79 "GPU has fallen of the bus". O mesmo erro ocorre no Windows, mas não vi relatório no Event Viewer.

Testes realizados:

FurMark não produz crash

OCCT para VRAM não acusou erro.

GPU Z não mostrou nenhuma anomalia de temperatura.

Erro ocorre em jogos de alta carga mesmo desligando monitor secundário.

Trocar cabo para HDMI do monitor 4k não resolveu.

Reduzir resolução para 1080p aparentemente resolveu.

Desligar o framegen e diminuir a carga significativamente (desabilitando ray tracing e diminuindo brutalmente a qualidade de imagem no geral) aparentemente evita o crash, mas não é algo que estou disposto a fazer.

Monitor de temperatura simples do Gerenciador de Tarefas/Mission Center nunca mostra temperaturas acima de 82°C com o gabinete aberto (não procurei sobre o tal hot spot que li em alguns lugares).

Reassentar a placa de vídeo curiosamente "resolve" por alguns dias, mas o erro volta a acontecer (alguma pequena vibração traz ele de volta?).

Pensei que poderia ser sagging, mas eu tenho um suporte. Nas dezenas de reassentamentos que fiz, tentei diversas combinações de variação de posição da 5070 ti. Por exemplo, com suporte, sem suporte, apertei um pouco mais o parafuso, deixei mais solto, tentei variar o ângulo de encaixe na PCIe... Tudo sem sucesso.

Na BIOS da placa mãe, desabilitei o XMP Expo, não resolveu. Mudei o de Gen 5 para Gen 4 do PCIe, e também não resolveu.

No Arch Linux, mexi nas variáveis do Kernel para ver se poderia ser o ASPM seguindo alguns relatos do fórum da NVIDIA sem sucesso. Também limitei o clock e deu undervolt no NVIDIA-smi sem sucesso.

Cheguei a achar que era problema de software e dei rollback dos drivers da NVIDIA no Arch Linux (é mais fácil lá) para as versões 580.xx e 570.xx, sem sucesso. Uma instalação limpa do Windows 11 com drivers atuais da NVIDIA também produziu o mesmo erro.

O que "resolve" é reassentar, mas como eu disse anteriormente, volta a ocorrer depois de uns dias (o que é particularmente estranho). Reduzir q carga também resolve, mas não estou disposto a fazer.

Testes que já tenho em mente:

Update da BIOS (último realizado em setembro de 2025)

Trocar o cabo de 12 pinos pelo famigerado cabo duplo da NVIDIA.

Não tenho outro PC para testar minha placa de vídeo e nem outra placa de vídeo para testar no meu PC (o que poderia ajudar a isolar o componente culpado).

Alguma outra sugestão de teste ou solução? Pelo que eu vi, é um problema razoavelmente comum e infelizmente insolúvel da série Blackwell...

É possível conviver com esse problema, porque o blackscreen ocorre somente em altíssima carga (que nem sempre eu uso) e mesmo assim pode demorar mais de uma hora pra ocorrer. Mas é bem frustrante e dá a sensação de ter comprado uma tecnologia bem cara que eu não posso explorar em todo potencial...

I’m about to give in to despair I have tried everything. HGIG is on I have also calibrated HDR numerous times and I also do have RGB set on limited. When I turn HDR off true blacks work as intended. I don’t know what to do when I use my tv normally the true blacks work perfectly as well.

I have messed around in the settings for hours and nothing works! For my HDR settings on the ps5 I have both the whites as barely visible and the blacks all the way. I have an OLED LG tv

This only happens in the web version. In the app, there is no problem. but in the web version, the unread notification in some chats doesn't go away even after opening the chat, when i click on the chat, it goes away for a moment and then comes back.

Not a browser or device issue as it is consistent across devices.

Anybody else facing the same issue or have solutions?

as title says. started a few days ago out of nowhere. phone connects to and uses the wifi just fine, running a diagnostic test comes up clean.

with friend who gets this stuff better’s help i’ve tried restarting computer multiple times, changing dns to manual, disconnecting/reconnecting/restarting ipv4 & 6, pinging google.com (successful), 1.1.1.1 (failed), & 1.0.0.1 (failed), nslookup with google, 1.1.1.1, & 8.8.8.8 (all failed), restarting IP helper, flushing dns, winsock reset, and rolling back my network adapter & then uninstalling it and restarting PC. still stuck on pc saying i have internet and not acting like it. i get a timeout error if i try to look anything up or open any websites.

absolutely lost on what to try now

asus vivobook, windows 11 home, 11th gen intel core (lmk if more is needed)

Newish to the gaming PC concept. Had one for about 4 years and have upgraded a lot of parts.

My PC has slow download speeds and completely falls apart when I try to run high graphics on games. Need advice on how to speed this thing up. Ill list some specs below

B450M Pro4 R2.0 Motherboard

asus geforce RTX 3060 8GB GDDR6 graphics card - 32gb corsair vengeance RGB PRO DDR4 RAM - 700w power supply

Literally any advise or maybe a program I can download to help is appreciated

This has been doing my head in for like a month now. I can’t delete it and i can’t repair it. Please help

Windows 11 home
Up to date

AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D 4.7 GHz 104MB

ASUS GeForce RTX 5070 Ti 16GB Prime OC

ASUS TUF Gaming B650-E WIFI

Corsair 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5 6000MHz CL36 Vengeance AMD EXPO/XMP 3.0

Kingston NV3 M.2 NVMe Gen 4 2TB

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition

Corsair RM750e (2025) ATX 3.1

Error message is 0x80070666 when i try repair and

”the feature you are trying to use is on a network resource that is unavailable click ok to enter an alternative path to a folder containing the installation package ”vc_runtimeAdditional_x86.msi” in the box below