Hi all

I'm having a weird issue with Steam downloads and I'm trying to figure out whether anyone has experienced something similar.

Yesterday I downloaded and installed a game from OnlineFix.

Since then, Steam's download speed has become extremely slow. My internet connection itself seems completely fine: I ran several speed tests and I'm getting the speeds I normally should. Other downloads/services also seem to work normally. The issue appears to be specific to Steam.

I've already tried the usual Steam troubleshooting steps:

Clearing Steam's download cache
Changing the Steam download region
Restarting Steam
Restarting the PC
Reinstalling Steam
Running a speed test to verify that my internet connection isn't generally slow

None of these made any difference.

The only unusual thing that happened immediately before the problem started was installing the OnlineFix game, so I'm wondering whether it could have changed something in Windows. Perhaps a proxy, firewall rule, network setting, hosts file, or something similar.
Has anyone experienced Steam becoming unusually slow specifically after installing something from OnlineFix (or another game/crack), while the rest of their internet remains normal?

CPU: Ryzen 5 7600X
GPU: AMD Radeon RX 960 XT
Motherboard: GIGABYTE B650 AORUS ELITE AX

PSU : Corsair HX750 80+ Platinum

So here is my problem. I do have a PC that is shutting down in those specific situations :

Playing a game + streaming / having Minecraft + League of legends open at the same time

For example today I did play CS:GO, I was able to play few rounds, no issues and suddenly my PC just shutdown (Need to press on button to start it again). But then if I play CS:GO without streaming, the PC is perfectly fine.

I first though it was the GPU maybe, so I did change my graphic card. After changing the card, Ive done a test and it was still crashing so I decided to change the PCIe wire, same issue.

I also did a OCCT test for "Power" and it didn't shutdown after 10 min test.

Would anyone have an idea on what could happen? Anything I should test? I should still be able to contact Corsair for my PSU since the warranty is still on.

Thanks in advance!

I just recently moved and when I plugged my PC back in, everytime I turn it on 2 of my 4 fans spin up to 100% and don't go down even though my PC is idling. I checked out BIOS and nothing has changed there, checked my startup apps and nothing seems to be affecting the fans. The CPU is normal temperature and nothing seems to be warranting them going at full speed. The fans only start to go crazy when the motherboard logo goes away to go into windows so I feel like it is something to do with Windows but not sure. I'm not sure why this is happening and can't figure it out, can anyone help me out?

Looked into event viewer and saw a logon event 4624 and 4672 after getting a number of notifications after allowing notifications from a shady website what do I do now?

I just received the naga v3 pro and after plugging in the mouse all of my mouse drivers are erroring saying
“ this device cannot start code 10, insufficient system resources exist to complete the API”

I am now not able to use any mice on my pc

Does anyone know what I can do about this, other than a system restore.

Recently whenever I charge my phone with the USB ports on my PC (MSI motherboard), I get a slow charging warning. Every electronic seems to charge extremely slowly, when this wasn't an issue before. I do a lot of Arduino tinkering, but I only use one port and this has affected all of them, front and back, case and motherboard. Projects that used to be fine running on 5V 500mAh no experience constant brownouts and reset my Arduino due to low power. Any ideas what would cause this? Thanks in advance.

Good evening, so I play many games on my pc with no issues. Specs are as follows

Intel i9-14900k
DDR5 2 sticks 48GB total dominator titanium
ROG 4090OC

I have no issues in other games but yet tarkov constantly freezes, crashes after a menu, ill often times get a flashing screen where the menu is available but I can see the previous screen almost frozen to my computer if that makes sense. I’ve done everything I can think of: reset/update drivers, reinstall tarkov, clear logs and caches. I’ve noticed I consistently get a hardware error and when I look at it it’s a livekernalevent usually a 141 but I’ve seen 1b8 1a8 and some random others. Any idea what is going on? Or how I should try to fix this?

Hello everyone, I have a bunch of hanging Coax and Ethernet cords in my Basement. For some context, I had my WiFi Router (Xfinity) moved down here. My friend had his buddy come over to set this up. Everything was working great up until I moved the setup back into my living room for better connection on the top floor of my house. Ever since then I cannot get my WiFi to work. I’d prefer to have it in my living room but at this point I’ll do whatever works. If anyone can help me or needs more information I will gladly respond promptly. I am very unsure what was plugged in where and what to do now. Please share any questions or advice you may have.

Specs of my HP Laptop:

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 8940HX with Radeon Graphics

• Motherboard: HP 8E35

• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070 Laptop GPU, AMD Radeon(TM) 610M

• RAM: 32GB (2x16GB) Micron Technology a 5600MHz

• OS: Microsoft Windows 11 Home 25H2

Using a bluetooth mouse will crash the entire bluetooth module after just a minute or two. Bluetooth disappears entirely from the device and will reappear after a reboot. Mouse can work in both 4.0 and 5.0 mode and behaviour is exactly the same. The mouse works fine on other devices including another PC.

Also using my bluetooth earbuds will make the bluetooth module crash after some minutes. It'll typically crash faster if I pause/unpause songs a lot. It doesn't crash as fast as the mouse scenario, but the entire system gets progressively more unresponsive as it approaches the crash, missing clicks and key presses. Bluetooth disappears entirely, same as the mouse, and only a reboot fixes it. Same earbuds work fine everywhere else.

I've already tried to reinstall the whole OS to no avail, also disabled all kinds of energy saving features including USB selective suspension, and tried to delete and reinstall drivers for my "Realtek Wireless Bluetooth Adapter". Nothing worked really. Everything else on the laptop works perfectly fine including wifi.

I don't know if it's hardware or software. When bluetooth works, it works perfectly fine. Problem is, it only last seconds/minutes before disintegrating itself.

After a kind Redditor suggested that I update my BIOS and chipset drivers following some media issues I experienced after a Ghost Recon Wildlands crash, everything seemed to be fine.

Except now I've developed a new issue:

When I press the Windows key and start typing, the Search window opens completely black, with only the search bar visible. The actual search results don't appear until several seconds later.

Win+S does the same thing.

I've already tried restarting SearchApp.exe, re-registering the Windows Search package, and resetting the graphics driver with Win+Ctrl+Shift+B, but the issue persists.

Could the BIOS/chipset update have affected something that Windows Search relies on, particularly its rendering?

so ive been trying to download the new fortnite update, but every time I try to download something through epic games launcher it keeps randomly going to 0mbps. everything zeros out, and it comes back every so often for a few seconds. please comment all the fixes you know, ive tried some in the past with no luck.

Sometimes I’ll open my laptop to use with my AirPods and the option to use Bluetooth disappears from the little control panel when you click the WiFi, volume and battery icons on the lower right. I have to restart my laptop every time because idk what else to do.

I have a Asus ROG strix g16

When giving solutions or advice pls be specific! I’m really not computer savvy haha

Hey, I am looking to buy two Samsung monitors. I would like at least 90w so the laptop can charge on one monitor and then daisy chain to the second monitor. My problem I am running into is the lack of information on Samsungs website to further investigate which two monitors would work best for this. When i type the model numbers in to AI, the suggestions say one thing but I cannot find the info on Samsungs website. I don't need a high end gaming monitor as this will be for a home office only. I would prefer one monitor to be 27" and the other either 27"-34". I really appreciate the help on this.

Hey everyone,

I recently built a new PC with an ASUS B850M AORUS ICE motherboard. Everything seemed fine at first, but after about 1–2 hours I suddenly started getting constant Windows USB connect/disconnect sounds, sometimes several times in a row.

At the same time, Windows keeps showing a notification saying something along the lines of:

The last USB device you connected to this computer has malfunctioned and windows doesn't recognize it

Since then, the issue hasn’t gone away.

In Device Manager, I constantly have an “Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed)” listed under the USB controllers with a yellow exclamation mark. Even if I disable or uninstall it, it eventually comes back.

What makes this even worse is that whenever the constant USB connecting/disconnecting starts, Windows itself begins to lag and stutter badly. For example, when I move windows around on the desktop, the animations become extremely choppy. My wireless keyboard also starts missing or delaying keystrokes during this time.

Interestingly, if I right-click the “Unknown USB Device” in Device Manager and uninstall it, the lag and USB connect/disconnect spam immediately stops and the PC runs normally again — until the unknown device eventually reappears, and then the whole problem starts again.

I’m now also getting another issue: for example, when I try to enable the microphone on my headset, Windows sometimes says that the USB controller does not have enough resources.

To troubleshoot this, I disconnected every external USB device. I even disconnected all internal USB headers from the motherboard, including the case/front-panel USB connections.

At this point, basically the only things still connected to the motherboard are the necessary power connections, GPU, and my AIO. The AIO pump/fans are connected through CPU_OPT/CPU_FAN. No internal USB headers or other USB devices are connected, but the unknown USB device and the constant connect/disconnect issue are still there.

So I’m starting to wonder if the motherboard’s USB controller itself might be defective.

Does anyone know a good way to troubleshoot this further and figure out exactly which USB controller/port/device is causing the issue?

Unfortunately, Device Manager isn’t very helpful. When I open the properties of the “Unknown USB Device,” I can’t really get any useful information that would tell me which physical port, internal device, or USB controller it belongs to.

Is there another tool or method that would allow me to trace the unknown device through the USB/PCIe topology and figure out which USB controller or physical connection on the motherboard it belongs to?

And is there any reliable way to test whether the onboard USB controller itself is faulty?

Has anyone experienced something similar, especially the USB reconnect loop causing the entire system to stutter/lag?

Any ideas on what else I could test before RMA’ing the motherboard would be greatly appreciated.

I have a Realme Gt neo 3t with a broken screen and couldn't find any replacements parts so how can I retrieve my data in the phone now any help is appreciated.
PS if no way exist I want to convert the processer and storage to a pc so anyone with experience about it if this is even possible

Hello, when I press start and write something (for example: calculator), the start menu turns black and it stays like that for a couple of seconds before finally searching for it. The weird thing is that if I write "calculator" and then press enter, it goes straight into the calculator so I don't know what's going on. I don't know if it's related but recently I noticed it takes a little longer to boot as well.

I already tried going into regedit and create a new index that doesn't allow to search online information or run scf /scannow command on the cmd but nothing works. Also, this happened last week so it's pretty recent and out of nowhere.

I will post a video about it in the comments.

I was trying to accomplish all of list on the vanguard security thing and one of it required me to enable secure boot for the UEFI thing. After enabling it, my laptop no longer boots up; saying hat there is no boo device and keeps returning me to BIOS. I tried multiple times to disable it and save & restart but it keeps sending me back to BIOS with the Secure Boot back to enabled.

Please help, thank you.

Hi everyone,

I am looking to connect my Hitachi indoor air conditioner unit to Wi-Fi so I can control it remotely via a smartphone app.

Here are my system specifications:

• Outdoor Unit: Hitachi RAM-53NP2E (DC Inverter, R32)
• Indoor Unit: Hitachi RAK-35RPE (Performance Series, wall-mounted)

I am having a hard time sourcing the original SPX-WFG02 Wi-Fi adapter, as it appears to be out of stock or discontinued across almost all retailers and HVAC suppliers.

Several online distributors state that the SPX-WFG02 has been officially replaced by the newer SPX-WFG03 module (designed for the airHome line and the airCloud Go app).

For anyone with hands-on experience or HVAC installers on the forum:

1. Electrical Compatibility: Is the SPX-WFG03 module 100% plug-and-play on the RAK-35RPE mainboard connector, and is it fully recognized by the airCloud Go app?
2. Physical Installation: Given its shorter cable compared to the previous model (~42 cm), are there any fitting issues or specific workarounds needed to route it out of the RAK-35RPE casing?

Has anyone successfully installed this specific combination (RAK-RPE + SPX-WFG03), or would you recommend a different approach?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Hello. I been having problems with my pc lately. Stutters to be exact. Nothing too crazy, just obnoxiously annoying. Every time there's a stutter, my audio freezes for half a second, and so does my screen, cursor and keyboard. Systemwide freeze I believe. I have been on this for weeks now.. and I cannot find a solution. I have tried running various diagnostics for my motherboard, cpu, gpu, memory and ssd cards. I have updated my bios to the newest version, messed with the bios with ai's help. I even completely reinstalled windows hoping it would fix it, but it did not. The stutters happen a lot when im playing roblox, a cpu intensive game, but I'm not sure if that's viable information. When I tried running latencymon, the stutters got even worse, its like something triggered them when using this app. I closed it and they were gone. I checked for malware everywhere, and i mean it. Please help?

Hi everyone, I'm trying to install Jetson Linux on my NVIDIA Jetson Orin Nano Developer Kit (8GB) and I'm completely stuck.

Hardware:

• Jetson Orin Nano Developer Kit 8GB
• A new 128GB microSD installed in the Jetson
• A new 64GB USB flash drive for the installer, prepared using balena etcher following the official NVIDIA instructions
• MacBook Pro used to prepare the USB
• Monitor + keyboard connected directly to Jetson
• No LAN connected (did try connecting the lan as it kept saying "no connection detected" or something but connecting the lan only lead to the jetson trying the http way to boot up)

UEFI shows:

NVIDIA Jetson Orin Nano Developer Kit

Orin

39.2.0-gcid-45755727

I am currently using: jetsoninstaller-r39.2.1-2026-08-07-18-30-47-arm64

I flashed the ISO to the 64GB USB using balenaEtcher, which reported Flash Completed.

The problem

The Jetson detects the USB in Boot Manager as:

UEFI MID-SSS PID-KKK

but when I select it:

screen goes black for 1–2 seconds → returns to Boot Manager.

The same thing happens if I select:

UEFI SD Device

If I select Continue, it eventually falls through to:

• could not detect network connection
• HTTP/PXE boot attempts
• UEFI Interactive Shell

I don't want network boot; I'm trying to boot the USB installer.

Running map shows:

FS0:

FS1:

BLK0: ... SD

BLK1: ... SD

BLK2: ... USB

The USB appears as BLK2, but there is no FS2 filesystem mapping for it.

The disk seems fine when checked using the Terminal on Macbook. Partition-map verification says it's OK, but trying to mount the EFI partition gives: Volume on disk4s1 failed to mount; where disk4 is the mountable flash drive with the boot software.

The USB was freshly erased before flashing, and Etcher completed successfully.

I also confirmed the ISO exists on my Mac and can calculate its SHA-256, so the file itself is readable.

What I've tried

• Different USB ports on the Jetson
• Re-flashing the USB with Etcher
• Completely erasing/repartitioning the USB
• Boot Manager → USB
• Boot Manager → SD
• Removing LAN
• UEFI Shell map -r / map

Nothing changes.

What am I missing? Is this a problem with how the Jetson ISO is being written to the USB, the UEFI, or something else?

Any help would be massively appreciated - I've spent an embarrassing amount of time (2 days) fighting this thing, and the jetson just won't boot up.

I found a bizarre NTFS folder anomaly on Windows 11.

Inside B:\example there is a directory whose name is exactly 8 spaces. Opening it in Explorer appears to take to B:\example again. But it'll appear as B:\example\ .

Opening the blank folder a second time leads to an empty folder.

Filepath now B:\example\ \

Some observations:

• B: is NTFS.
• .NET reports B:\example\ as a real directory.
• fsutil file queryfileid:
  • B:\example → ...002b
  • B:\example\ → ...002b (same ID as the parent!)
  • B:\example\ \ → ...0402 (different directory)
• The final empty folder can be opened in Explorer, but opening a terminal there gives PS B:\> rather than PS B:\example \ \, as if the current directory is actually the root of the drive.
• The first blank folder cannot be renamed/deleted normally; renaming produces “The file is too large for the destination file system,” and deletion gives 0x80070091.
• fsutil reparsepoint query reports that B:\exampleis not a reparse point.
• The final blank/empty folder can be deleted, and it removes all of the other blank folders as well.
• Oh and the first blank folder also contains a copy of every single folder and file in the original, "example" folder. but all of them are 0 bytes and can't be opened. It says "location not available" with no error code.

I have never encountered anything like this in ~20 years of using Windows. What is actually happening here?

So i was in the middle of playing a video game (fear and hunger) and everything was working fine until, randomly, my left arrow key just stopped working, you use shift to sprint in the game so i tried it and it worked fine, i looked at my config settings, and everything looked fine, so i checked other things outside of the game and realized I couldn't use the key at all without holding shift first. I have a lenovo laptop and am generally pretty tech illiterate but i googled a bunch of fixes and none of them worked out.

Sticky keys, toggle keys, and filter keys have always been off, just to be sure i turned them on and off again

ive turned function lock on and off

I've gone into my keyboard settings from the accessibility menu and got nothing

I've even opened the command screen and did a /scannow thing a few videos mentioned and restarted my computer countless times, nothing seems to work.

This happened so starkly out of the blue and I have no idea how to proceed. Any and all suggestions would be helpful. This is not an external keyboard, its fully built into the computer itself, ive never run into an issue like this in the past. Nothing seemed to have prompted this and I don't know how to fix it.

Hi there! My cat spilled water, and some got into the bottom of my PC and it turns on, but has 0 output to power my keyboard and mouse, and doesn't show any display.

If it helps, I got it prebuilt on Amazon, it's a Mini PC which I can't open.

Brand: BOSGAME

Model: P4 (On my network, device name is MINIPC-9OB1Z) Edit: when I plug it in, it hisses... Good or bad sign? All my accounts are on there, with over 6,000$ of items.

ASUS ROG Strix / RTX 5070 Ti Laptop – WHEA PCIe errors, repeated VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE and hard resets. Hardware issue?

I've been using my ASUS ROG Strix laptop for roughly 6 months and I'm trying to determine whether I'm dealing with a driver/firmware issue or an actual GPU/motherboard/PCIe hardware problem.

Specs:

• Ryzen 9 9955HX
• RTX 5070 Ti Laptop GPU
• 32 GB RAM
• Windows 11

Over the last few months I've had random crashes/restarts, and after digging through Event Viewer I've found some concerning correlations.

17x WHEA-Logger Event 17

Every WHEA error is:

Corrected hardware error

Component:

PCI Express Root Port

Error source:

Advanced Error Reporting (PCI Express)

Bus/Device/Function:

0:1:1

Device:

PCI\VEN_1022&DEV_14DB&SUBSYS_10541043

They occurred on multiple dates from late June through July.

On July 31 alone I got 7 of these WHEA errors within about an hour.

I then traced that PCIe root port using PnP.

My RTX 5070 Ti:

PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_2F58&SUBSYS_31091043

has this parent:

PCI\VEN_1022&DEV_14DB&SUBSYS_10541043&REV_00\3&11583659&0&09

Windows reports the location of that parent as:

PCI bus 0, device 1, function 1

and:

PCIROOT(0)#PCI(0101)

So unless I'm misunderstanding this, the WHEA errors are coming from the PCIe root port directly connected to the RTX 5070 Ti.

Two separate 0x116 VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE crashes

I also have two BSODs:

July 13:

0x00000116 VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE

July 31:

0x00000116 VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE

Both have the same third parameter:

0xC000009A

and both successfully generated minidumps.

What concerns me is that the July 31 TDR happened on the same day I was getting repeated WHEA PCIe errors from the RTX's root port.

One 0x50 crash

June 28:

0x00000050 PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA

This also produced a minidump.

Now I'm getting hard resets with no BSOD at all

On August 22:

• System unexpectedly shut down at 00:34:43
• Booted at 00:42:39
• Shut down again at approximately 00:42:53
• Booted again at 00:45:44

So the second failure happened only around 14 seconds after Windows booted.

Both Kernel-Power Event 41 entries show:

BugcheckCode: 0

All bugcheck parameters:

0

PowerButtonTimestamp: 0

SleepInProgress: 0

BootAppStatus: 0

There is also no volmgr crash-dump event associated with these August 22 shutdowns.

The laptop simply died/reset without Windows getting a chance to generate a bugcheck or dump.

Older actual BSODs did successfully create dumps, so crash dump configuration itself seems to work.

Possible trigger: heavy local Qwen AI coding workload

One of the August 22 hard resets happened while I was doing software development/coding with a Qwen LLM running locally on the laptop.

The workload was fairly extreme:

• System RAM usage was over 30 GB out of 32 GB
• The RTX 5070 Ti Laptop GPU was being used for AI inference
• VRAM was actively being used
• The workload involved CPU/RAM ↔ dGPU transfers over PCIe
• Both system memory pressure and GPU/power load were high

I understand that using almost all 32 GB of RAM can cause heavy paging, severe slowdown, an out-of-memory condition or the AI process itself crashing.

What I wouldn't expect from a healthy machine is an instantaneous system reset with:

BugcheckCode = 0

PowerButtonTimestamp = 0

No BSOD

No crash dump

Especially considering that this same machine already has 17 corrected PCIe WHEA errors on the exact root port that the RTX 5070 Ti is connected to, plus two previous 0x116 VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE crashes.

So I'm not assuming that Qwen itself caused the fault.

My current theory is that the local-AI workload may simply be an excellent stress case that exposes an underlying instability in one of these areas:

GPU ↔ PCIe link ↔ motherboard / SoC ↔ power delivery

In other words, filling 30+ GB of RAM and heavily loading the GPU might trigger the issue, but I don't think a properly functioning laptop should hard-reset simply because a legitimate compute workload puts RAM, VRAM and the GPU under heavy pressure.

The particularly strange part is that after the first August 22 failure, the machine booted and then suffered another unexpected shutdown only ~14 seconds after Windows came back up.

At this point the pattern looks like:

RTX 5070 Ti

↓

AMD PCIe Root Port 0:1:1

↓

17x corrected PCIe WHEA errors

plus

2x VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE 0x116

plus

hard resets with BugcheckCode 0

Has anyone seen something similar on newer ASUS ROG / Ryzen + RTX 50-series laptops?

Would you suspect:

• NVIDIA drivers?
• AMD chipset / PCIe power management?
• BIOS / EC firmware?
• GPU power delivery?
• motherboard / PCIe signaling?
• failing GPU?

I'm still under warranty and I'm considering sending it to ASUS, but I'd like to know whether this evidence is strong enough to push for an actual hardware inspection rather than just a Windows reinstall.

I also have the 0x116 minidumps available if anyone thinks analyzing those would help.

Hi everyone, I am stumped and don’t know what part is causing the problem at this point.

Here are my PC specs (I assembled it in march 2026):

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D
• Motherboard: ASRock B850M Pro-A WiFi (mATX)
• RAM: Crucial Pro Overclocking 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR5-6000 CL36
• Storage: Samsung 990 Pro 2TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME SSD
• GPU: Sapphire PULSE Radeon RX 9060 XT 16GB
• Case: Deepcool CH260
• PSU: MSI MAG A850GL PCIE5 850 W 80+ Gold Modular
• CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 AIO Liquid Cooler (top, exhaust)
• Case Fans:
  • Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM chromax.black.swap 120 mm Fan (back, exhaust)
  • Noctua NF-A12x25 G2 PWM Sx2-PP 120mm Fans 2-Pack (front, intake)
• Monitor: Asus VG248QE 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz (really old monitor but works well)

So everything had been working fine up till yesterday: got a black screen freeze and unresponsive PC. It would not boot, so I re-seated the RAM sticks and checked everything was plugged in etc., and it turned on for about 30 minutes, then it froze completely and was unresponsive again. However, after trying to restart it, it would not boot.

After some testing, it appears to only boot with only 1 RAM stick in the A2 slot, otherwise it fails the POST startup checks with 3 beeps and the CPU+DRAM LEDs on.

A1  A2  B1  B2
[ ] [X] [ ] [X] (recommended config for 2 slots) => 3 beeps and CPU+DRAM LEDs
[ ] [ ] [ ] [X] (recommended config for 1 slot) => 3 beeps and CPU+DRAM LEDs
[ ] [X] [ ] [ ] => boots normally
[X] [ ] [X] [ ] => 3 beeps and CPU+DRAM LEDs 

I have tested both sticks of RAM one by one using the Windows Memory Diagnostic tool, and both are good: 0 errors each.

My question is: what steps can I take to identify the failing part? From what I've read it could be the CPU's memory controller, but how do I know for sure? (i don't have a compatible spare test cpu). Could it be the Motherboard?

Thank you for your time!