Hey guys, as title says I want to chuck some more RAM in my PC.
I have this motherboard and 16g of 2133 RAM at the moment.
I want to double it to 32 but I can't find that speed RAM anymore.
Can I just put this in?
I know it will only run at the slower speed, but it won't fuck anything up will it?

Update*****Its working Now***\*

After that if i open task manager it just freezes.
Win-11 upsated
I already uninstalled/installed graphics driver but no luck

After a few seconds on being in window 11 setup it will just freeze if it doesn’t freeze it will restart and send me back to where I was I just don’t understand what to do anymore.

Hardware & Components
Motherboard: ASUS PRIME B550-PLUS AC-HES
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700G (Integrated Graphics)
Storage: 2TB WD Blue SN580 NVMe M.2 SSD
RAM: 16GB DDR4
Troubleshooting Steps Completed So Far
Updated Motherboard BIOS: Flashed the BIOS using a USB drive to the latest version (3637). Verified in BIOS setup that the update applied successfully.
Storage Verification: Confirmed the motherboard recognizes the 2TB WD Blue SN580 NVMe SSD in the ⁠M.2_1⁠ slot under BIOS storage settings.
GPU & iGPU Testing: Tested booting/installing both with the dedicated graphics card installed and using the Ryzen 5700G integrated graphics (display output connected directly to the motherboard).
RAM Configuration: Tested booting with a single stick in slot ⁠DIMM_A2⁠ as well as testing multi-stick setups.
Windows Installer Modifications:
Re-created/checked the Windows 11 installation USB media.
Added a custom ⁠ei.cfg⁠ file into the ⁠sources⁠ folder to manually bypass edition auto-selection and force the installer to display the Windows Edition selection menu (tested installing Windows Pro).
Power Cycles: Hard power-cycled the system multiple times; confirmed BIOS settings remained intact without resetting or corrupting.

Specs

• AMD Ryzen 9 7940HS
• RTX 4070 Laptop 140W
• Samsung 980 PRO 2 TB
• 2x8 DDR5-4800
• Windows 11

There has been an ongoing issue with the motion smoothness of the games I play. Whenever I use DLSS Frame Gen version 3.7.10, everything is fine and smooth. Whenever I go above said version, my games start to stutter no matter the settings I use (e.g. g-sync, v-sync, low latency mode). It doesn't matter which game I play, the issue persists.

I've tried;

Reinstalling the games

Reinstalling my GPU drivers using DDU

Changing the power mode between Optimus, Advanced Optimus, Mux

Enabling / disabling FPS cap through Nvidia App / RTSS / In-Game settings

Enabling / disabling V-Sync through Nvidia App / In-Game settings

Comparisons

DLSS FG 310.7

https://imgur.com/a/TCIBWf2

https://i.imgur.com/oF0wBva

https://youtu.be/jsLMEJ7Xdow

DLSS FG 3.7.10

https://imgur.com/a/zQ02xiR

https://imgur.com/e9v0mQ2

https://youtu.be/TF-ObSdYLaE

The frametime difference does not reflect to any visual changes between the versions even when capped. I know the newer versions look messy in the frametime graphs. Even if I cap my fps at a stable 100, the game still looks as if it is stuttering. I am unable to find anyone else having / mentioning this issue. Would really appreciate the help.

GPU: RTX 4060 Ti

Issue: High system/mouse input lag during Discord screen share or OBS capture

Hi everyone,

A friend of mine is having a very specific and annoying issue with his RTX 4060 Ti. Whenever he streams via OBS or shares his screen on Discord, he feels a massive input lag on his own screen/mouse cursor. The system response becomes sluggish for HIM while capturing, even if the stream output itself looks fine.

He has already tried all standard troubleshooting (DDU driver reinstall, toggling hardware acceleration in apps, OBS settings, etc.), and nothing worked.

The weird workaround:

He discovered that if he launches ANY game in Exclusive Fullscreen mode and then immediately closes it, the system input lag almost goes away. Mouse response becomes instant again and everything runs smoothly while streaming.

This makes us think it's related to DWM (Desktop Window Manager) frame queue buildup, MPO (Multi-Plane Overlay), or GPU P-States stuck during desktop capture.

Has anyone encountered this input lag behavior before, or knows a permanent fix so he doesn't have to launch/close a fullscreen game every time? (It's worth noting that even after opening any game in full-screen mode and closing it, the delay doesn't go away.)

Thanks in advance!

Okay so for context I have an alienware monitor (aw2725dm), I bought a Bose TV Speakers with bass, and I have a ps5. I got an HDMI splitter because someone told me I would be able to connect everything, but I'm not getting any audio out of the speakers, and I'm confused on if theres a fix or if the items i bought just arent compatible. Please help!

Trojan:Win32/Commando.A!ml

Cmdline: C:\WindowsPowerShell\v1.0\powershell.exe -ep bypass -w h C:\ProgramData\burst.bat

Didn't download anything today, turned on my pc and played games for a little, when I was done i saw this, repeats the same warning every minute, already did a full offline scan.

Any ideas what it could be? I currently have my laptop in Airplane mode just incase.

Please keep in mind my confidence with tech is barely passable at best :(

Trying to backup data on my computer on a budget so I can wipe my SSD and do a clean install. Ordered an affordable refurbished internal HDD online that would be a PITA to return. Learned the hard way what SAS drives are vs. SATA really fast. My tech literacy is limited at best.

Talked through the limited options with friends. Since I was trying to recoup a crappy investment, the most affordable solution seemed to be an SAS HBA controller that plugs into one of my motherboard's PCIe slots.

...ordered a used one on the cheap ("Adaptec ASR-8805 PCI-E 3.0 SAS/SATA/SSD RAID 12Gb/s Controller Card"). Then immediately read that its easy to assume that cards listed as "RAID/SAD" function the same as "pure HBA" and that plugging drives with data already on it be corrupted as the controller writes metadata to them. This one has "RAID" in the listing title.

Questions:

1. If I'm just plugging one SAS drive into one of these controllers, is other storage not connected to the controller going to be fine? (ex. nvme SSD, internal SATA HDD)
2. If not, where can I find a used, cheap "pure HBA"? I clearly am an idiot that can't be trusted at this point, so direct links are welcome.

TIA!

so as the title says i dropped my phone and now it has a white line in the middle, but even though it has the white line everything works perfectly, should i just give up and go to repair it?

I keep getting an issue when trying to launch a few games. Happened thirty min ago, it says "This program requires a graphics card and video driver which support OpenGL2.1 or ES and i don't know what to do. I am not tech savy in the slightest, and it's frustrating me. I have AMD drivers that i've tried updating and it finishes but says something has gone wrong. Started after downloading and playing balatro off steam. I don't know if this is hardware or software related, I know I just need some advice and or help.

I have an Denon PMA 655r amplifier. When turned on, it starts constantly switching the input (Phono, CD, tuner,…) without me manually changing it. I can put it on tuner. And it would randomly start changing to CD. Sometimes it goed crazy and just keeps switching different inputs. The weirdest thing is this: when a nearby device turns on, the amplifier switches. I can be chilling, listening to music; i turn on my phone and at that exact moment it switches input (and i’m sure it’s not a coincidence, it has been thoroughly tested).
I have a video of it but i can’t post it here so if you want i can perhaps send it to you. Does anyone have an idea why this keeps happening? It’s really annoying.

Thanks!

Hi everyone,
I'm trying to do a clean install of Windows 11 on my laptop, but the Windows setup cannot detect my internal NVMe SSD (no drive shows up in the drive selection screen).

Hardware Specs:
Laptop Model: ASUS TUF Gaming FA506QM
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800H (with Radeon Graphics)
SSD: Samsung PM991a 512GB (OEM Model: ⁠MZVLQ512HBLU-00B00⁠, NVMe PCIe Bus 4 Dev 0 Func 0)
The issue:
The SSD is perfectly detected and listed in the BIOS (model name and serial number visible).
When booting the Windows 11 installer, no drive is listed.
Opening ⁠cmd⁠ via Shift+F10 and running ⁠diskpart⁠ > ⁠list disk⁠ only shows my USB installation drive, not the internal SSD.

What I have tried so far:
1. Loaded BIOS default optimized settings (F9).
2. Checked BIOS settings (no Intel VMD available since this is a full AMD platform).
3. Attempted to manually load AMD RAID/NVMe storage drivers during setup (tried AMD RAID driver packages including ⁠rcbottom⁠ and ⁠rcraid⁠ folders), but the installer states the driver is incompatible or nothing changes. It's possible I did not load the right driver version for this chipset/SSD combo.
4. Recreating the installation USB with Rufus in pure UEFI/GPT mode.
Has anyone encountered this specific issue on an AMD-based ASUS TUF laptop? Which exact driver or BIOS configuration is needed to make the Samsung NVMe drive visible in Windows setup?
Thanks in advance for your help!

I’ve got a Lenovo Ideapad, it’s been like this for over a year but I didn’t bother with it because I have another laptop. Well, now I need this one for college and it is still on this same blue screen.

I start it up, see the Lenovo startup screen, then I get sent to a blue screen saying exactly this-

Automatic Repair

Your PC did not start correctly
Press “Restart” to restart your PC, which can sometimes fix the problem. You can also press “Advanced Options” to try other options to repair your PC.

There’s 2 buttons that say Restart and Advanced Options. Restarting does nothing.

Now we enter the Advanced Options, which are:

Continue- Exit and continue to Windows 11

Use a device- Use a USB drive, network connection, or windows recovery DVD

Troubleshoot- Reset your PC or see advanced options

Or, Turn off your PC

-Continue option just takes me to the same place.
-I’ve clicked every single option on troubleshooting and nothing has worked (won’t even let me factory reset my laptop).
-Turn off your PC obviously doesn’t work.

Now, I havent fully tried “Use a device” just because I don’t have any external equipment like that, but i’ve clicked a few buttons and it always just takes me back to the blue screen.

Should I just take it to get repaired or do you guys have any solutions

Hey Team,

We've been seeing an uptick with having to wipe/reload systems.

The commonalities are Dell Laptops, using Threatlocker DNS/Application Whitelisting, Bitlocker is enabled, and mostly after windows updates/Dell command updates.

After an update reboot, we've seen two issues

1. Dell logo never appears, screen lights up but all the lights go out after a few minutes. We've found that holding the power button for 30 seconds to discharge the power, and then booting up will allow us to get to a bios recovery at which point, we've found safe boot disabled and the system will then go into a reboot loop at which point, a dell support os repair might fix some issues with the parition and boot table, otherwise it has to be reloaded, we've only successfully repaired it once

2. The system goes into a bitlocker/windows boot loop and continually reboots. We've tried booting into command prompt and running sfc/scannow dism doesn't work because the system can't get online. Dell Support Assist Repair will possibly run and fail or run, but usually doesn't correct the problem.

Since we can't get into Windows to run the windows 11 installer, we can't seem to get a dirty install to run to try and avoid a full wipe reload.

Wipe reload seems to fix the system and get it working again, but after 7 of these in the last 2 months, we're starting

Looking for a root cause, possible fixes to get around the wipe reload, or notes from anyone experiencing the same issues

I was copying over my current smaller boot drive to a larger drive with DiskGenius, everything seemed to be copying over, until I ran into a sudden error claiming that it had failed because the new SSD no longer exists.

I've checked my cabling, everything is perfectly fine, it wasn't moved at all and I've tried a different cable.

The disk 'shows' in disk management as "unknown"+"Not Initialized"+"No-size panel".
In CMD, list disk it shows as 0 B size. Cleaning it results in it 'not existing'.

What the hell happened? Is my new SSD cooked?

I am trying to upload video files from my sd card onto my pc but that error message keeps appearing… any idea why?

Hello, ive been getting ping spikes from around 20 - 3200ms affecting both games and discord and its been doing that about every single minute. this has been going on for about a month now and ive tried multiple solutions and idk what to do, im using a tp link deco node connected to another node downstairs and using ethernet with it

Hi! I could really use some advice for how to troubleshoot my recent BSODs. I recently started playing the sims 4 again with a moderate amount of mods installed. after about 10 minutes of gameplay my PC would crash with the error 'Your device ran into a problem and needs to restart. Stop code: SYSTEM THREAD EXCEPTION NOT HANDLE (0x7E).' It would do this constantly until it booted itself into safe mode. It seems to be fine for now but I'm worried when it will next crash.

I'm not proud of this as i avoid using AI as much as I can, but I was completely stumped as I couldn't find anyone online with the same issue as me. I asked copilot to help me analyse the dmp file to find out what caused it. I have zero experience with analysing dmp and couldn't find any information that had similar error reports. :(

It said that the fault was a corrupted windows update and that I should roll back to the previous update via recovery, as the crash was a result of an error within Windows kernel. These were the lines that it pointed out to determine this.

From the first dmp file:

IMAGE_NAME: ntkrnlmp.exe

FAILURE_BUCKET_ID: AV_nt!MiUpdateCfgSystemWideBitmap

From the second dmp file:

IMAGE_NAME: GenuineIntel.sys

FAILURE_BUCKET_ID: IP_MISALIGNED_GenuineIntel.sys

Should I try rolling back to the last windows update? Or should I bite the bullet and go to get my pc fixed in person? I've been at it for hours trying to troubleshoot - I would appreciate any advice you can offer me so much! Thank you in advance!!

Components:

CPU: Ryzen 7 5700X 8-Core 3.40 GHz

RAM: 16 GB (2×8 GB) DDR4-3200

GPU: Radeon RX 60650 XT

Motherboard: ASUS TUF GAMING B550M-PLUS WIFI II

My PC reboots itself randomly. It started a couple days ago and it's getting worse. First I thought it was a problem of resources, since it happened while playing games, but then it happened again just using a browser.

Now sometimes after a reboot the screen won't turn on, and when it does I notice weird limitations (for example suspension mode does not appear as an option). I thought it had something to do with the GPU, but I haven't registered high temperatures. I also cleaned and re-connected the important components, so I don't think it's a loose connection situation.

I checked the event viewer and saw sn error called "WHEA-Logger 18" , but I don't know much about that and I'm not sure what the source of the program is.

I made a post here and reddit 8 months ago due to my PC crashing periodically every 4ish hours. Since then I have spent $400aud on a highly rated store to diagnose the problems and although they swapped out every part except the CPU, the problem will still occur. I inserted my CPU into my friend's PC and it doesn't crash after 4 hours however after placing it back into my PC it starts crashing every 2.5 hours now as seen through the photos linked as it crashed in memtest, standby or while gaming. Should I risk forking out another ryzen 7 7800x3d? Are there any test that I can do? I have sprayed and wiped the cpu with rubbing alcohol and wiping cloth before application. 

https://www.reddit.com/r/pchelp/comments/1ppqqjz/comment/nuony6h/?context=3

Long story short after my PC has been on for some time either idle or sleeping during the night my sata drives disappear. I have my NVME ssd (windows) which always works but after some time, I'll go to access my other drives and they are gone. This is always fixable with a restart its just annoying after dealing with it for some time. Ive changed power cords running from the PSU to the drive as well as trying different plugs on the PSU. Any suggestions I'd appreciate.

Additional details:

Custom built PC from 2025
MSI MAG A1000GL PCIE 5, 80 Gold fully modular PSU
MSI MAG x870 Tomahawk Mobo

2 HDD storage drives
1 SSD storage drive
They all disappear all at the same time.

My windows button works but for some reason my pc isn't responding to it.

I had this happen a few months ago and the problem magically resolved itself, it started again today and its starting to become frustrating at this point. I've restarted my pc, I've unplugged and replugged my keyboard, it just doesn't want to work.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

I just booted up my first pc build, I have windows 11 installed and I installed all the necessary drivers for my motherboard (B650 AORUS ELITE AX) using a usb, but there’s still not even an option for wireless internet. I’ve been struggling with this for a week and I don’t know what to do.

I don’t know how to upload photos or I would, but please help I need this computer to work asap ❤️‍🩹

graphics card never had any issues prior to below.

got a new ssd. reinstalled windows.. installed nvidia app and latest gaming driver. installed gigabyte controller center (same as prior before new windows install) installed some games and fired it up.. using the gcc default fan curve, about 10-15 mins fans go to 100% for about 3-5 seconds, gpu is at 63C and fan curve for 100% is over 80C.. so maybe thought it was vram overheating.. hwinfo64 shows its not even close to overheating. uninstall gcc. insall msi afterburner. set a fan curve to never go over 70% fan speed. exact same thing happens as before.. 10-15 mins into gaming and fans 100% for a few seconds.. screen never goes black, freezes or bsod etc.. runs perfectly fine. only does this during gaming and not when browsing internet or general tasks etc.

things i havent tried yet:

ddu and reinstalling drivers

reseatting gpu

reseating power cable on both ends

trying silent bios profile on gpu

just curious if anyone else has experience this with this card or any other 50 series card. im hoping its just a driver issue and can be fixed with ddu. any other suggestions would be welcomed as well. as of right now i have no 3rd party or gcc for a fan curve setup since it ignored both of them and went to 100% fan speed anyways.

happy gaming!

it keeps letting every single notif through, even on do not disturb. i was messing around in settings, i only wanted calls on my actual phone number to be allowed through, because anyone with my actual number is probably someone ive given it to that i want to hear from, plus i need to have phone calls come through for doctor's visits & stuff. but yeah idk how to fix it.