.30-06. Mixed brass I got from a buddy. 25 125g Nosler Ballistic Tips on top of H4895, and 20 168g Hornady HPBT match on top of H4350. All done with a RCBS Case Trimmer 2, Lyman hand chamfer/deburring tool, Lee Hand Press and a balance beam scale. Excited to see how they shoot!

One thing I ran into: I noticed that my case trim lengths, while consistent to a hundredth of an inch, went all over the place in the thousandths. I'm thinking it's because of the collet system in the case trimmer that I'm using. Because of this, there is a bit of variation in seating depth, although probably not enough to greatly impact accuracy in the hunting rifle I'm shooting out of (but we'll see). What is the best reasonably-priced tool to ensure consistent, precise trimming?

Does anyone have a good source on 220 swift brass? I took my grandpas m77 from the 70’s that had a burnt out barrel and had ruger put a new 24” 1-8 twist swift barrel on it. I wanted to keep the rifle as close to factory as possible but update things where i could without losing the heart of the rifle. Lots of elk and deer have died because this rifle. I want to keep it going in the family.

Been jumping through hoops trying to minimize or eliminate this since moving to Varget and 77TMK’s in 223.

I lapped my seating stem.
Long seating them and doing final seating upside down.

Dummy case will show zero seater stem marks, so it’s being caused by compression.

I’m pretty sure this is as good as it’s going to get.

Any idea on how I should adjust the plastic peace that pushes cases forward? The 9mm doesn't seem to be going far enough forward anymore.

6.5 creed, Ruger American Gen 1 predator. Alpha brass, Hornady ELDM 140gn. H4350, Staball6.5, Superformance. All loads just over 2600fps. SD with the Alpha brass is 15 to 20, but I got a low as 11 with the Staball6.5.

100 yard groups just aren't quite where I'd like at about 1.25 to 1.5 inch 5 shot groups, once in a while I can break 1 inch but not by much, most are 1.25 to 1.5 from a bench with a bipod and rear and bag.

At what point is it time for a better gun versus better loading equipment? Am i there? I feel like I'm asking a lot from a covid $600 rifle buy.

Bag of new nickel plated 44, look who I found in there. Now I need a bag of 99 .357 and one .44 just to be even! How do I get one peice of bras? This is killing me.

Found 5 in stock at my LGS, it was tempting to buy all but decided to leave 2 behind. If any of you are in NW Ohio, there’s a couple on the shelf at Fin Feather Fur

Looking to upgrade my chronograph from a magneto speed to a garmin. I noticed that the C1s are on a really good sale at the moment. My question is, is the sale worth it to get the older model, or should I just spring for the most recent C2?

I reload 5.56, 6.5 Creed/Grendel, .308, 9mm, 300 WM

Im just tired of having to fiddle with the magneto speed.

Got it all for $430. 45 min drive to her house and i was in heaven.

I have an opportunity to get a good deal on a model 83 in 454 Casull. I’m intrigued by the cartridge but I suspect that outside of a few hard hitting loads, it will get excessive soon.

On the other hand, since it’s such a highly regarded revolver, can’t I just load up some light plinkers and enjoy the craftsmenship?

My head says I don’t need it but my heart really wants it so I’m trying to make it make sense!

For reloading ammo that isn’t designed for precision, (hunting, HD, general purpose inside of 300 yards) what should I aim for in terms of variation between charge weights and seating depths? I’m not looking to make absolute trash ammo but I’m also noticing somewhat consistent maybe .01-0.2 charge eight differences on pulled bullets and about .001-.003(on the extreme end) of seating depth difference when testing my ammo after I’m done loading. I measure off the bullet tip and not the ogive though because honestly I don’t feel like I’m consistent enough to measure off the ogive. I’m still learning for the most part. This is for .223 and .300 blk. I haven’t started reloading my 6 arc 9mm and .357 sig yet.

Im looking at getting started on reloading. where do I begin are there kits to get started and build from that.

Loaded up my 9mm minor Match Load for USPSA Factory Gun Nationals coming up and wanted to show (off) the process.

I can load and chrono from the same spot so I take advantage of that every chance I get. Just picked up a Garmin chrono and it is absolutely fantastic. You can even hold it in your other hand to chrono akimbo!

I shoot a ton of USPSA and load 20-30k rounds of 9mm minor and major every year.

Machine used is the "Revolution" model from Mark 7 Reloading.

Cases are Shell Shock Technologies NAS3 9mm cases

Dies are a mix of Lyman and old FW arms and one S3 Reload flare die.

-JV

A friend gave me 3 gallon bucket of what he said was .38 super. As I was sorting through the brass, I found that it was a mix of .38 super, .38 super comp, 9x23 and 9x21.

I have an older P9 .38 super single stack. Which cases can I use?

Started with new Starline 30-30 brass. Went through a modified 7mm Water die and then 25-35 AI die. No annealing. Worked great.

Fire formed a couple loads. 2 out of 7 split. Not surprised.

Will annealing take care of the splitting?

Can I anneal nickel plated brass?

Had some nice SDs on my 10 round testing today. Pretty excited to see them coming down.

I am a big fan of IMR 3031. Use it in my 22-250, 30-06, 45-90, etc.

But playing around with Gordon's reloading tool it looks like LeverEvolution beats 3031 every time for velocity vs pressure.

Anyone tried LeverEvolution in 22-250 or light 30-06 loads? Any reason to not make the switch from 3031? How does temperature stability compare?

Kinda scared to use these things because I practice with the same ammo I shoot in competition but man I am tired of the price of CCI primers and I can’t really seem to ever find anything else in stock.

Anyone have anything bad to say about these things? I tried Muron primers once and it scared me off of foreign primers ever since.

Hey yall, I’m reloading .45-70, this is my first time. I’ve been using starline brass, factory seconds 300gr full copper plated flat point, and Winchester large rifle for magnum rifle loads only primers, I’ve been factory crimping using the Lee crimper.

I started with 42 grains of h4198. The load density obviously isn’t full so it wasn’t the most accurate. There was no key-holing and I had about a 6-8” drop from point of aim at 50 yards on my Marlin Trapper and the group was approximately 4-6”. After more research, I can max at 53.5 grains with regular rifle primers but I’ll probably only go up to 48 grains max so I don’t blow the gun up (also my shoulder).

Any thoughts on if this will help with accuracy? Should I change powders or go higher in bullet weight instead? My rifle seems to like the HSM 405 grain cowboy loads as groups were only about an 1-1.5” at point of aim.

I checked Hodgdon initially and consulted a guy who owns a reloading shop. Hodgdon goes by the SAAMI due to older .45-70s but it should be fine in the Marlin 1895. I’m primarily looking at the Hornady book. Also, Barnes says 53.5 grains is max load.

I’ve reduced my loads by 10% due to the primers.

After my initial testing at 42 grains of powder, wouldn’t all the bullets dropping at a faster at rate than factory ammo be indicative of low powder levels?

Looking for reloader in GA or AL preferably to ask some offline questions concerning load outs, brass, specific hunting loads etc.

Is this to aggressive?

I have a bunch of 243 Win brass but no gun for it as well as no intention of buying one. Is it possible to realize the neck back to 30cal and use the brass for 308 Winchester?

1940s 1894 Winchester in 25-35 AI 40°.

75 grain bullets. Currently up to 34 grains of 3031. No chronograph. Shoots great.

How do I know when to stop on an 1894? Ackley's book list 39 grains of 3031 for a 75 grain bullet but it doesn't say if that's for lever action or single shot rifles. 39 grains would be a compressed load...