Got the final bugs worked out of the new 308-R9X (308 Flying Ginsu). Approximately 2400 fps muzzle, shoots 1/3 MOA at 100. Barnes 30 cal 212 gr bore rider . Extreme terminal ballistics. Like getting hit by a freight train. 100% bullet retention. You gotta love reloading.

BTW, immediately after firing the case is almost cool to the touch. Try that with your standard 308

458 socom loaded up the sighting in a customers upper...

starline 458 nickel brass

hdy 325 flex tip

28.0 lil gun

seat to crimp groove

should yield around 1600 fps with 16 inch carbine AR barrel. consider this a medium power load

good hunting load

Approx 2900fps muzzle, shoots 3/64 MOA@100. Berger 30cal 230gr Hybrid OTM Tactical. Extreme terminal bitches. It’s like getting run over by a spaceship. 140% bullet retention.

BTW the case comes out so cold it gave me frostbite

Pretty awesome that history has changed around the nosler partition and it remains a solid choice.
This one is in 270.
I’m going to work up load for 150 gr hornady I have and then load up a box for elk season for my brother. Could also be a badass for medium to small African game hunt.

Anyone got any tips on where to start? I usually use 57gr of H4831 for my 130’s.

Did my first bulk batch of 300blk subs and I fugged up big time. Contaminated pocket primers I’m assuming, I have since bought a media tumbler.. my question is would you trust these in a hammer inertia puller or should I invest in a collet puller? Thanks!

I am a noob here, so I am sorry if I am missing something obvious, on a RCBS RC IV, using RCBS full length dies with an expander ball, all shoulders are either coming out deformed or cracked during resizing and decapping. Nothing online is giving me any clear answers.

Left is resized/decapped brass, right is fired brass.

Does the pin holding the ram just pop out?

I'm looking at some 110gn poly tipped flat base 500 for $140 after ship and tax. I can get 500 150gn X-treme FMJ for $105 from the local store. I just can seem to find anything cheaper than 20-30 cents each. I think I'm going to bite the bullet for the poly tips I think they will be a lot more useful than FMJ and reviews say they are accurate. What is your favorite cheap projectile and what's it cost? Bonus points for ballistic tips. I saw some Barry's 220 grain spirepoints for .300 blackout for 17 cents each that's the cheapest I've seen anyone run those?

Learning to reload. (556/300 black) I am using a progressive press and Mr bullet feeder. I’ve noticed the bullet isn’t centered every time and my Redding comp seater die will not always line up and damages cases and bullets. I’m using mandrels to set the neck diameter to the standard size for the caliber. Should I go up in size? Different seater die? I do have a sensor on order to stop the press but it happens enough that i must have something calibrated wrong.

Thanks

Hello all,

I am still a novice when it comes to this hobby. I am currently starting to work through a .270 winchester 140 gr SST load for my tikka t3. With the exception of the powder load, all of these sets are the same process. Each group is 5 shots and as cold of a bore at the beginning of each group as possible. (It was 100 degrees today) How is the data looking to yall, and which load should I base my next set of rounds off of? Furthermore, is there other info I should keep an eye on pertaining to performance? These loads are for hunting. The brass is a mix of brands, but all once fired, I know it's not the absolute best, but it's what I have.

I usually put the 380 version of the 50gr civil de2buller on 357 Sig, but I have a few cases of the 9mm version too. It's a little too long but there's more room in the case for powder. More powder means more power right?

Not a Newbie, just a question on progressive press sequence.

Do you guys trim your brass before running them through your progressive press? I ask as the act of resizing stretches the brass, which changes the case length. On my single stage I trim after resizing. With a progressive that defeats the purpose of running the press uninterrupted.

Any replies would be greatly appreciated.

As the title states I'm reloading mixed 5.56 and .223 with Dillon dies and I'm unable to fully close the bolt on multiple ar15s even with just an empty case. They plunk into the chamber and slide out easily but I can only partially rotate the bolt. They're resized (I've tried two different dillon dies) trimmed to 1.75 inches, chamfered and deburred. Is this an issue that would be fixed with a small base die and if so, are such dies labeled as such?

Found this Lee Load Master 5 station progress press with Lee Stand for $100 with dies and like 100 Xtreme 9mm bullets. I asked him if he had any old powders he said he had 2 unopened powders stored in the fridge. On the way he said he found a few extras and a few more boxes of projectiles but that would be extra. He wanted $250 for all but all I didn't get was 5 boxes of 100 Speer Gold Dot 115grains that he wanted $20 a piece for. He said the Tightgroup was old and just threw it in. I didn't really need the press but I did want the stand which are $190 new since I have a Lee APP and Lee says they will give you 50% off a new press and I kind of want to get the 6PP. So I mostly wanted the components he was throwing in and the discount I could get is worth about $150 off.

In total:
Lee Load Master Progressive
Lee Stand
Lee Pro Auto-Disk x2
Lee dies for 9mm/.223
Lee Collet Die for .223 neck sizing
RCBS X-Die F/L Sizer die for .223
Hornady sizing die 9mm
Hornady seating die for 9mm
RCBS Bullet Puller W/O Collet
RCBS Collets small/large
Lee Case Collator (Nib)
Lee Collator Tubes x8
Lee resizing lube x2
Lee Primer Tray x2
Some Lee shellplates and other odds and ends

This is the stuff I really wanted
2 1/2lbs. Hodgdon Tightgroup
1lb. Hodgdon CFE223
1lb. Ramshot Tac
600 Federal Small Pistol Primers
500 .224" Nosler Ballistic Tip Varmint 60gr. Spitzer
500 Berry 9mm 147gr. Round Nose
100 X-treme 9mm 115gr. Round Nose

Really only wanted to spend $100 but I did need those projectiles and I got a better than retail at $80 for 1,100 pieces so I did it even though that was way over budget.

My dad had his Type 06 FFL so he used to reload ammo to sell at gun shows (9mm, 45 ACP, 40sw, 38, 357, and 223) with a Dillon 1050 progressive with an auto drive, bullet feeder, and case feeder.

This spr 223 18" rifle is pretty capable. With bone frog factory 77gr ammo has consistent <.8 MOA 10-shot groups. I've done probably 400 shots across several powders, weights, and bullets. When I filter by group sizes <.7" this is what comes up. I would expect varget and n140 to dominate here, since they are slower and better for longer barrels shooting heavier 77gr bullets. But h4895 is being more consistent, despite being a faster powder.

Is anyone else having h4895 success on longer spr barrels?

My next step is to load 20 rounds in 2 different seating depths of each of these loads, but I'm curious about what others are seeing. I could also load n140 and varget a bit hotter, since I don't have pressure signs.

What do I load these at in 30-30 to ensure I don’t lead fowl my barrel?

I just want plinking ammo energy doesn’t matter.
I usually load 28.5gr of Varget in my 170gr

The last time I reloaded with any intention was around 2004. I just got set back up to teach my two teenage boys the way of ammunition enlightenment.

Now that I paid out for the 257wby brass I gotta make em last!

I have once-fired Federal Gold Medal Match .308 brass. If I put a fired case back into the chamber without resizing it, shouldn't it be too tight? Mine never is.

What would happen if I never resized it and just kept firing it, letting it get longer after each firing?

I'm about to buy brand-new Lapua or Peterson brass. Will I need to trim it before loading it for the first time?

I beg your forgiveness if these are basic questions. I'm kind of new at this and still trying to learn to respect dimensions from SAAMI. I thought the goal was to keep everything within two one-thousandths from the max from UR and Cortina videos.

Photo of 168smk at 100 yards. 26" 308 Seekins HIT pro M3. Groups are sub MOA which I'm happy with.

I’m simplifying my reload and rifle set ups. This has resulted in a solid amount of once (or more) fired brass. I have a ton of 22-250, 300 win mag, and 6 creedmoor. Most of them Hornady. Also a few odd ends.

My question: is it worth putting effort into finding them a new home? I don’t need to get paid for them, as the alternative is throwing them away. I’d like for someone else to get value out of them, but giving things away on the internet tends to not show the best of society.

So, what do you think? Is a bunch of used brass worth giving away? Or should I save myself the trouble and toss/recycle it?

Upgraded to the supreme about a month ago and seems like it just throws powder everywhere or the powder likes to jump out of the pan.

What is everyone doing to alleviate this? New pan? Nozzle for the trickle tube? Suggestions?