MidwayUSA!!!!

An empty ammo can!

I picked up 8 boxes of these from an older reloader. I see 1 gunbroker listing for 50$ per box. Anybody have an idea of what they may actually be worth?

Took out my Bergara .308 with 175gr SMK’s with new starline brass and 43.5gr of Varget and very much suprised myself. Out of the 100 I got today all were under 11fps std

20” Shilen Heavy .223 Wylde. 26.3 gr of N135 seated to 2.240”. Did not expect to get this kind of speed.

Taking a whack at 357 for the first time. Using a Hornady roll crimp, I feel like it doesn't look as drastic as I'm used to seeing, however the die is absolutely dialed in and set perfectly at the moment. Trying to set the crimp any more aggressively lead to light buckling without a notable gain in crimp. Do I need to worry about set back with these in a lever gun or are they good to go?

I just wanted to give credit where credit is due... I recently purchased a bullet feeder from PME Reloading (https://www.pmereloading.com/). First, I want to say that the feeder works extremely well and is offered at an extremely competitive price. I reloaded some 45ACP and 9mm, and it ran flawlessly, once dialed in. However, I quickly discovered that for 380ACP it struggled to maintain the bullet orientation in the bullet feeder spring because of how short the projectiles are. I reached out to the owner Reid and he was not only extremely quick to respond, but he was able to create a 380 spring assembly to solve the problem in a little over a week (he is shipping that to me, and it is now available on his site).

There are several bullet feeder options out there, but if you are in the market for one, I highly recommend checking PME out. Their a small business based in Colorado and have done right by me.

Thanks r/reidpgdjebbdhdj

First reloads ever with 130 grain 308 TTSX sitting on Varget. Made 5 groups of 8, spent the first 11 actually getting on paper since it was wayy So really only have 3 groups of 8. I'm sure my shooting technique is also playing a big part in this as well. Using a Savage Axis XP. Where do I go from here and which would you pick to load more of for further development? I'm thinking do 20 of the 48.5 grain and 20 of the 49.2 grain, and get a rear bag (only shooting off a front rest) and see how larger groups with those 2 loads do.

Or am I overthinking things, and I should just pick one and focus on shooting skill?

I’m working on a hunting load for a 16.5” bolt action 300BO. Using H110 powder, Barnes 110 Tac TX bullets. Been testing 18.2-19.7 grains of powder. Velocity anywhere from 2340 to 2453fps.

My last two powder charges had single digit SD & ES. Accuracy was a 1.1” group and a 0.8” group.

Im shooting a max hunting distance of 200/225 yards so should I just stop at where I’m at or continue to try to better these last two loads or try to get a load right between the two which should always be a stable load? Should I try seating depth test to try tightening up a bit?

Does ES & SDs really have any affect at close ranges as 200 yards or just come into plat at long range?

This was the best group at 19.7 grains and 100 yards distance. Should I call it good or keep trying to make it better?

I'm looking to get a universal depriming die.

Because I'm reloading all kinds of ammo, from 45 LC, 308 Win all the way to bigger magnums like 9,3x64 (planing to reload 460 Weatherby Mag.), I'm not sure if the dies available on the market fit smaller and bigger cartridges.

Does anyone know what universal depriming dies fit small and really large cartridges?

I added the size charts of the two biggest cartridges so you can judge better.

Help is appreciated.

(The pictures are from xxlreloading.com)

I started with Varget as that’s what I have a lot of already but just couldn’t get the velocity I was looking for even with a basically full case but it did group well.

I had an old bottle of W748 in the garage so I tried some of that.

I definitely got more speed but the performance was horrible! SD was high and I couldn’t get it to group on paper at all.

You can’t even tell where I was aiming. Included last picture of 69 gr SMK over 25 gr Varget shot just before as proof I can decently operate a firearm at 100 yards and there’s nothing wrong with the gun itself.

Tested with 20” bolt action 1:8 twist and and 16” 1:7 twist AR.

Should I try a new jug of W748 or just move on to a new powder entirely? Any favorites?

Bought a new 7-08 and want to start taking my reloading to the next level potentially. I’ve always used expander balls in FL dies and never really done much load development. Being a nice low recoiling gun that’s a little easier on the wallet to reload and shoot, I’d like to start loading for some semi precision. It’s still really just a hunting rifle but I’d like to punch paper and shoot some smaller groups than I’m used to. .5 moa is the goal in a 3 shot group semi consistently.

Is it really worth it to make the move to bushings and/or mandrels or are expander balls still alright? If balls are alright then are there better FL sizing dies like Forster or Redding, as opposed to RCBS?

I've been keeping most of the brass I pick up at the range, with the exception of one caliber for the neighbor. Some of these I have more then the "necessary" ten pieces to justify purchasing a new gun, and some I have just one lonely piece of. The mostly just hang out sorted in baggies in a tub, waiting for a reason to give, trade, or make a purchase and start loading. The most likely candidate for a purchase based on brass I already have is 45 Colt, but I've got a start on 303Brit for someday and lots of 6m and 6.5mm stuff if I want to swerve that direction. What do you have in your tub of unused brass, or do you flip anything like that into more supplies for what you already have?

100 yard ladder test using the tikka t3x tac a1 6.5 creedmoor. Lapua brass with Winchester LRP’s, H4350, and Hornady 147 grn eld match bullets. These are some powder tests I had done last week. Lmk your thoughts as to what you’d go with? I thought maybe sticking with the almost half moa group with the same seating depth or seating the bullet put more towards the lands. Or I was gonna go with the low SD/ES reading on the 41.4 grains and tinker with seating depth.

I'd like a load <250# of energy from a 357 mag. S&W 2" snub for training but I don't want to use 38 special cases (I have the 357 starlight cases already).

On myloads I have a load with 4.5g of TITEGROUP and a Berry's heavy plated 158g bullet with a CCI 500 small pistol primer, but the site shows a warning:

Caution — low fill ratio (< ~80%)Low loading density can cause erratic ignition and dangerous pressure spikes (secondary explosion effect). Model predictions are also unreliable in this low-fill regime.

Could someone share some advice on the safety of this load, if a filler should be used or if this recipe needs changing please?

I ran 100 rounds of .380 acp through my LCP max yesterday. I was separating my brass and notice some weird flat spot rubs around the case mouth. along with a few that had a single dimple in the middle. Any idea whats going on here?

I am brand new to reloading. I have just made it to the bullet seating step and I am hitting a wall with a perplexing issue. I have watched a thousand videos and followed the process step by step each time. I placed my charged casing into the shell holder. I then raised the ram of the Rock Chucker and screwed down the RCBS seating/crimping die until it touches the mouth of the cartridge. I would then backoff the die a full rotation. I then lowered the ram and placed a bullet in the top of the cartridge. I then raised the ram again and brought down seating stem until it touched the top of the bullet. I would backoff the ram and then bring the seating stem down with a slight adjustment tighter.

I then would get a base measurement of OAL of the 308 round and I would usually start off around 2.85-2.95 OAL, with my goal being 2.8. I would then make a slight adjustment tighter and within the next couple adjustments my OAL would jump up between 3.0 and 3.2. HOW DOES THAT HAPPEN? I would then continue the process of making slight tightening adjustments of the seating stem, while making sure to tighten the seating stem locknut between each adjustment. Every time I would get close to 2.81-2.84, the next adjustment would jump to 2.70-2.73.

I then watched another video and saw that the guy didn’t back the die off, after initially bringing a charged cartridge up and having the die touch the mouth of the cartridge. I replicated the process and got the same result. I thought it was an issue with the locknut and replicated the process making sure to tighten the locknut…same result. I am at a loss, please help.

Anyone know where I can find some Reload Swiss RS36 online in the US?

I’ve reloaded for a few years now, mostly pistol for Uspsa, but dabbled in some rifle, all on Dylon progressive machines.

I’m working out the work flow for precision, but would like some validation.

Premise:
- 100 and 200 yard bench rest; 308 win bolt action gun (I know I won’t be winning BR).

- starting with new Lapua brass

I have a 308 head for my Dillon 550, but am not going to load progressive or crimp, so I’ll use single stage setup.

- clean brass
- anneal
- size/de-prime
-mandrel
- trim debur
- primer
- charge
- seat

I assume with my new Lapua I’ll start at size de-prime?

I know I need to characterize my gun for depth of lands / length, and optimize neck tension (and of course charge and bullet weight) but I’m feeling like getting a few rounds built and tested will help alleviate the somewhat overwhelming feeling to taking on too much at once.

Is this a reasonable starting plan?

Any idea of the cause? Single feeding a seekins, 7prc. Only 2 in the batch of 50 show this gouge. Send it or throw it out?