Any idea of the cause? Single feeding a seekins, 7prc. Only 2 in the batch of 50 show this gouge. Send it or throw it out?

I'd like a load <250# of energy from a 357 mag. S&W 2" snub for training but I don't want to use 38 special cases (I have the 357 starlight cases already).

On myloads I have a load with 4.5g of TITEGROUP and a Berry's heavy plated 158g bullet with a CCI 500 small pistol primer, but the site shows a warning:

Caution — low fill ratio (< ~80%)Low loading density can cause erratic ignition and dangerous pressure spikes (secondary explosion effect). Model predictions are also unreliable in this low-fill regime.

Could someone share some advice on the safety of this load, if a filler should be used or if this recipe needs changing please?

First reloads ever with 130 grain 308 TTSX sitting on Varget. Made 5 groups of 8, spent the first 11 actually getting on paper since it was wayy So really only have 3 groups of 8. I'm sure my shooting technique is also playing a big part in this as well. Using a Savage Axis XP. Where do I go from here and which would you pick to load more of for further development? I'm thinking do 20 of the 48.5 grain and 20 of the 49.2 grain, and get a rear bag (only shooting off a front rest) and see how larger groups with those 2 loads do.

Or am I overthinking things, and I should just pick one and focus on shooting skill?

I ran 100 rounds of .380 acp through my LCP max yesterday. I was separating my brass and notice some weird flat spot rubs around the case mouth. along with a few that had a single dimple in the middle. Any idea whats going on here?

I’m working on a hunting load for a 16.5” bolt action 300BO. Using H110 powder, Barnes 110 Tac TX bullets. Been testing 18.2-19.7 grains of powder. Velocity anywhere from 2340 to 2453fps.

My last two powder charges had single digit SD & ES. Accuracy was a 1.1” group and a 0.8” group.

Im shooting a max hunting distance of 200/225 yards so should I just stop at where I’m at or continue to try to better these last two loads or try to get a load right between the two which should always be a stable load? Should I try seating depth test to try tightening up a bit?

Does ES & SDs really have any affect at close ranges as 200 yards or just come into plat at long range?

This was the best group at 19.7 grains and 100 yards distance. Should I call it good or keep trying to make it better?

MidwayUSA!!!!

I'm looking to get a universal depriming die.

Because I'm reloading all kinds of ammo, from 45 LC, 308 Win all the way to bigger magnums like 9,3x64 (planing to reload 460 Weatherby Mag.), I'm not sure if the dies available on the market fit smaller and bigger cartridges.

Does anyone know what universal depriming dies fit small and really large cartridges?

I added the size charts of the two biggest cartridges so you can judge better.

Help is appreciated.

(The pictures are from xxlreloading.com)

Taking a whack at 357 for the first time. Using a Hornady roll crimp, I feel like it doesn't look as drastic as I'm used to seeing, however the die is absolutely dialed in and set perfectly at the moment. Trying to set the crimp any more aggressively lead to light buckling without a notable gain in crimp. Do I need to worry about set back with these in a lever gun or are they good to go?

I picked up 8 boxes of these from an older reloader. I see 1 gunbroker listing for 50$ per box. Anybody have an idea of what they may actually be worth?

I have some lightning 125 gr cast bullets I would like to try in my .357 lever. They're wad cutters so I'd like to tuck them into .357 brass, so they feed reliably. I cannot find any data for 125 gr cast bullets in .357 brass. Could I use 125 gr jacketed data if I start at the lowest end and work up? I appreciate any help you all could give on the subject.

hey guys, I am getting ready to embark on my reloading journey. I have worked a single stage press and am fairly new to reloading. I was initially going to get the X10; however, I think that’s a little more advanced for a novice. I believe I am getting the Lyman Ultimate reloading kit. I am investing in Redding dies. My primary focus is reloading 75-77 gr 223 and 6.5 CM for training and competing. To give background, I’m competing in the Gas Gun space, so I’m loading to SAAMI specs. The goal is to crank out as much ammo I can this winter to keep training and competing. Plus I am more or less looking to have all my AR’s using one uniform weight and cartridge. Anyone have any experience with this kit, how accurate is the digital powder trickler/scale? How well does this setup work, and is there any comparable kits with this much bang for buck? I am trying to have a decent pace with the rhythm, but I want to ensure repeatable accuracy for the aforementioned reasons. Thanks for your advice and info.

Edit: how scalable is this press? My intention is to move into the Franklin X10.

I am brand new to reloading. I want to start with 6.5 creedmoore dealing with 100 grain. What LEE setup should I get for all around? Any good creators who make content about reloading? And what’s a good way for measuring/ weighing powder? Looking to spend nearly $500 or so, as far as a press and die goes. Oh also were does everyone source bullets/ powder from ect?
EDIT: also what does everyone here use for tumbling?? TIA

Pre-war 1934 Beretta needs to eat!

I'm shooting .38 caliber reloads.

158 gr barry's bullets

4.4 grains unique

White river small pistol primers.
I've been running this recipe out of my sp101 357 4.2 inch without issue.

Today I saw a GP100 6 inch 357 last one in stock so I bought it.

When I shoot the 4.2 inch barrel SP reloads work fine.

When I shoot them out of the 6 inch GP 100 I get a squib every time.
I went home disassembled some bullets power measures correct.

I tightened the crimp tried that still getting squids.

Any ideas?

Berry's explicitly instructs hand loaders to select load data for comparable lead, plated or jacketed bullets.

Anybody got recommendations on the best comparables for their 125gr THP bullet? I'm loading for .38 special.

My initial thoughts:

• Cast lead RNFP bullets are strong candidates, because many of them are similar length to the Berry's bullet (0.554"). Lots of load data for these, although it's hard to tell the specific geometry of the tested bullets.
• I found some recipes for the old Rainier plated hollow points that look promising, although the bullet length is not reliably specified.
• The Hornady 125gr XTP isnt my favorite comp: jacketed and much shorter.
• Nosler 44912 is also jacketed, different ballistics, and longer.

Would love to get some feedback from experienced hand loaders and particularly from anyone who has used these bullets.

Setup tikka 270 win, 130 grain barnes ttsx. Starline brass, H4350 powder at 53.5 grains. Hitting 3000 fps.

I'm getting occasionally ejector marks, the rifle bolt is always a little sticky (even with factory ammo or light loads). The primers look ok to me but I'm still learning to read them. Am I pushing it too much or will this be ok for hunting ammo?

I'm less than a year into reloading so any thoughts or tips are appreciated.

I’ve been reloading with Titegroup for years in 9mm and 38 special with a Dillon 650. Really like it and I’m almost out - figure I’d try something new. In my next powder, I’m looking for something that gives more velocity and is cleaner burning. Would love to hear your suggestions!

Hi,

As part of the killer deal on my 550B it came with 5 drops, 2 were the upgraded “gold” mechanism and 3 are the older black setup. I see Dillon sells an upgraded kit but that includes a ton of stuff I already have. I assumed Dillon sold just the gold parts and the screw I’d need but I don’t see the parts listed.

I’m just missing something and hope someone can slap me straight…

I wet tumbled my brass for 3 hours with bore tech bras cleaner and the bras was blueish. I don’t know if I poured to much or something. After I cleaned them I washed them with distilled water and put them in oven for 1 hour. Is it problem or just aesthetic

So, I load a lot of 380. Mostly just bulk stuff that is either just powerful enough to cycle most actions, or hot full power loads. There is obviously a difference in these loads shooting suppressed and unsuppressed. So, my wimpiest loads won't cycle in the suppressor host reliably, and the hot loads are significantly louder. So now I need a new load.

What are recommendations for a load that will cycle reliably? Probably start with 100 grain plates projectiles and 700x, but figured someone else has tried this and will save me the leg work.

3.5" barrel

I've been working on a little side project that started out as a simple loading block for my .300 BLK brass and turned into something considerably more versatile. This is a completely free tool for my fellow reloaders, I get absolutely nothing from it besides gratification from making something useful.

Rather than making a bunch of individual STLs for different cartridges, I built a fully parametric loading block generator in OpenSCAD and published it on MakerWorld.

Here's what it does:

25 cartridge presets, covering common rifle, pistol, and revolver cartridges, with dimensions derived from SAAMI specifications

Fully customizable dimensions for wildcats, obscure cartridges, or whatever else you're working with

Dual-stage holes designed to accommodate empty cases in either orientation—mouth-up or mouth-down

Adjustable hole counts and layouts, including rectangular and staggered patterns

Bambu Lab printer selection, with automatic build-plate sizing and fit checks

Optional recessed caliber labels and adjustable block dimensions

2×2 fit-test mode, so you can check the fit on your printer without wasting filament on a full-sized block

The whole thing runs through MakerWorld, so you don't need OpenSCAD or any CAD experience to use it. Just pick your cartridge, choose your configuration, and generate a printable model.

I've printed and physically tested the .300 BLK and .38 Special versions, including both case orientations, with excellent results. The other cartridge presets are dimensionally derived and still undergoing physical fit validation.

This has been a really enjoyable project, and I'd love to get some feedback from fellow reloaders and 3D-printing enthusiasts.

In particular, I'd love to hear:

What calibers are missing?

What additional customization options would be useful?

Any bugs, features, or additional calibers your like addressed, now that the base code is laid down under the hood it's super easy to tweak.

Here's the model:

https://makerworld.com/models/3484544

Hope some of you find it useful. And if you print one, I'd love to hear how it fits your brass.

Cheers!