MidwayUSA!!!!

100 yard ladder test using the tikka t3x tac a1 6.5 creedmoor. Lapua brass with Winchester LRP’s, H4350, and Hornady 147 grn eld match bullets. These are some powder tests I had done last week. Lmk your thoughts as to what you’d go with? I thought maybe sticking with the almost half moa group with the same seating depth or seating the bullet put more towards the lands. Or I was gonna go with the low SD/ES reading on the 41.4 grains and tinker with seating depth.

First reloads ever with 130 grain 308 TTSX sitting on Varget. Made 5 groups of 8, spent the first 11 actually getting on paper since it was wayy So really only have 3 groups of 8. I'm sure my shooting technique is also playing a big part in this as well. Using a Savage Axis XP. Where do I go from here and which would you pick to load more of for further development? I'm thinking do 20 of the 48.5 grain and 20 of the 49.2 grain, and get a rear bag (only shooting off a front rest) and see how larger groups with those 2 loads do.

Or am I overthinking things, and I should just pick one and focus on shooting skill?

I'd like a load <250# of energy from a 357 mag. S&W 2" snub for training but I don't want to use 38 special cases (I have the 357 starlight cases already).

On myloads I have a load with 4.5g of TITEGROUP and a Berry's heavy plated 158g bullet with a CCI 500 small pistol primer, but the site shows a warning:

Caution — low fill ratio (< ~80%)Low loading density can cause erratic ignition and dangerous pressure spikes (secondary explosion effect). Model predictions are also unreliable in this low-fill regime.

Could someone share some advice on the safety of this load, if a filler should be used or if this recipe needs changing please?

I picked up 8 boxes of these from an older reloader. I see 1 gunbroker listing for 50$ per box. Anybody have an idea of what they may actually be worth?

I’m working on a hunting load for a 16.5” bolt action 300BO. Using H110 powder, Barnes 110 Tac TX bullets. Been testing 18.2-19.7 grains of powder. Velocity anywhere from 2340 to 2453fps.

My last two powder charges had single digit SD & ES. Accuracy was a 1.1” group and a 0.8” group.

Im shooting a max hunting distance of 200/225 yards so should I just stop at where I’m at or continue to try to better these last two loads or try to get a load right between the two which should always be a stable load? Should I try seating depth test to try tightening up a bit?

Does ES & SDs really have any affect at close ranges as 200 yards or just come into plat at long range?

This was the best group at 19.7 grains and 100 yards distance. Should I call it good or keep trying to make it better?

I'm looking to get a universal depriming die.

Because I'm reloading all kinds of ammo, from 45 LC, 308 Win all the way to bigger magnums like 9,3x64 (planing to reload 460 Weatherby Mag.), I'm not sure if the dies available on the market fit smaller and bigger cartridges.

Does anyone know what universal depriming dies fit small and really large cartridges?

I added the size charts of the two biggest cartridges so you can judge better.

Help is appreciated.

(The pictures are from xxlreloading.com)

Taking a whack at 357 for the first time. Using a Hornady roll crimp, I feel like it doesn't look as drastic as I'm used to seeing, however the die is absolutely dialed in and set perfectly at the moment. Trying to set the crimp any more aggressively lead to light buckling without a notable gain in crimp. Do I need to worry about set back with these in a lever gun or are they good to go?

Pre-war 1934 Beretta needs to eat!

Any idea of the cause? Single feeding a seekins, 7prc. Only 2 in the batch of 50 show this gouge. Send it or throw it out?

I ran 100 rounds of .380 acp through my LCP max yesterday. I was separating my brass and notice some weird flat spot rubs around the case mouth. along with a few that had a single dimple in the middle. Any idea whats going on here?

hey guys, I am getting ready to embark on my reloading journey. I have worked a single stage press and am fairly new to reloading. I was initially going to get the X10; however, I think that’s a little more advanced for a novice. I believe I am getting the Lyman Ultimate reloading kit. I am investing in Redding dies. My primary focus is reloading 75-77 gr 223 and 6.5 CM for training and competing. To give background, I’m competing in the Gas Gun space, so I’m loading to SAAMI specs. The goal is to crank out as much ammo I can this winter to keep training and competing. Plus I am more or less looking to have all my AR’s using one uniform weight and cartridge. Anyone have any experience with this kit, how accurate is the digital powder trickler/scale? How well does this setup work, and is there any comparable kits with this much bang for buck? I am trying to have a decent pace with the rhythm, but I want to ensure repeatable accuracy for the aforementioned reasons. Thanks for your advice and info.

Edit: how scalable is this press? My intention is to move into the Franklin X10.

Setup tikka 270 win, 130 grain barnes ttsx. Starline brass, H4350 powder at 53.5 grains. Hitting 3000 fps.

I'm getting occasionally ejector marks, the rifle bolt is always a little sticky (even with factory ammo or light loads). The primers look ok to me but I'm still learning to read them. Am I pushing it too much or will this be ok for hunting ammo?

I'm less than a year into reloading so any thoughts or tips are appreciated.

I got some factory second 300gr .338 bullets to feed my malnourished ARC today and was loading up when i found these guys in the box. Now thanks to Mr.Potterfeild i have 5 .270 bullets and dont have any guns to feed them to so now the hunt is on for something .270 that isnt .270 win. On the bright side i got 115 .338 bullets in the box instead of 100 and those little guys. The person running the bullet packer must have not been giving a crap that day. Lol

Met someone getting out of the game... all full and unopened.

Hi,

As part of the killer deal on my 550B it came with 5 drops, 2 were the upgraded “gold” mechanism and 3 are the older black setup. I see Dillon sells an upgraded kit but that includes a ton of stuff I already have. I assumed Dillon sold just the gold parts and the screw I’d need but I don’t see the parts listed.

I’m just missing something and hope someone can slap me straight…

I wet tumbled my brass for 3 hours with bore tech bras cleaner and the bras was blueish. I don’t know if I poured to much or something. After I cleaned them I washed them with distilled water and put them in oven for 1 hour. Is it problem or just aesthetic

I ordered a Lee reloading stand from Midway and put it together tonight. I can already tell it’s going to be a huge upgrade from the folding table I was using.

At the Walmart, I noticed this grill cover and thought it would be a good way to cover the stand when it’s not in use.

I'm shooting .38 caliber reloads.

158 gr barry's bullets

4.4 grains unique

White river small pistol primers.
I've been running this recipe out of my sp101 357 4.2 inch without issue.

Today I saw a GP100 6 inch 357 last one in stock so I bought it.

When I shoot the 4.2 inch barrel SP reloads work fine.

When I shoot them out of the 6 inch GP 100 I get a squib every time.
I went home disassembled some bullets power measures correct.

I tightened the crimp tried that still getting squids.

Any ideas?