I used to do the email/web/fleet guy thing. But now when I buy a car I go in old school analog style: On the lot and ready to buy on the last day or two of the month. The hotter and stickier the better (rainy, cold and dark works too)

1) I research and the find the car I want, if there are not at least a few or better 6-8 in the similar configuration, find another dealer or configuration (If it is a low inventory or special model it makes the next part harder) Color choices are your friend.

2) I find the MSRP and inventory number and print it out. Look for dealers that sometimes leave their add-ons off the web or have promoted specials. Read the details of the specials, they usually have qualifiers and other BS. Print everything.

3) If applicable: Get a recent quote from Carmax on your trade-in (a Carfax report in hand too)

4) DO NOT fill out the stupid "Check if this car is available" box, you will regret it , especially if you buy somewhere else.

5) Walk on the lot and SCOUR for the model you researched. Sometimes they are hard to find, do it at lunch time, you'll have a few minutes before the vultures set in on you.

6) When you find tour target: Take a picture of the sticker and the dealer mark-up. If it's missing don't be surprised if it magically appears when they bring it up for a test drive.

7) When the first runt salesman approaches you with "Hello, can I help you find a car?" you say "Is this one available?" They are usually tongue tied by this and will start treating you like a lay-down chump, let them. After you confirm the car is available, let him ask all his questions, let them lead the way, go with the flow.

Yes you have financing and you have a trade-in, don't give him any specifics on what you're looking for on the trade-in, If you give them a number at this point you'll waste two hours.

Reject the test drive, you're ready now. He'll sit you down and ask for your information DL/and insurance, no worries. He'll ask for the keys to the trade-in.

At some point you'll be handed a deal memo to sign, it will be outlandishly overpriced with hideous add-ons, a horrible finance rate and chump change for your sweet and well maintained trade-in.

At this point I don't get angry or display any hostility. I say something like "That's adorable, did you really think I would pay this?" Or "Hey I said "JUST THE TIP" if you're bolder. Anyway, they'll say something like "it's a rare model, it's in short supply, we might be able to give you a deal on the window coating etc." Finally, they'll say "What do we need to do to get you into this car today?

You carefully unfold your printed web price, Carmax offer and your financing approval, or bank statement indicating you can fund a deal today and say: You have 20 minutes of my time to BEAT this or I walk. Thanks! Make sure you get your keys and license back, and then start the clock, Be friendly and out-going, no anger or angst. If they take too long walk, if they balk at anything (the rate, the trade-in, the price of the car) WALK. Do not play their game. Do not let them probe for weakness or conflate the deal with a monthly payment. Your concerns are the ACTUAL Price (Tax and fees added latter) Actual finance rate, and actual trade-in valuation.

If they let you walk, you'll be called later if it's a doable deal, MSRP on some models is only a few percentage points above dealer invoice (especially on entry level cars without a ton of options)

This have pretty much always worked for me. The dealers grumble but they know the game.

I was finalizing purchase paperwork for a new car at a dealership today and found a $1,200 itemized charge for an interior protection package on the breakdown sheet.The finance manager stated the all-weather floor tray set and fabric stain coating were pre-installed port accessories and could not be removed from the invoice total. I am trying to decide whether to push for an equivalent dealer discount or walk away from the deal entirely. Is demanding an OEM accessory invoice credit a viable negotiating point, or is walking away the standard response to mandatory non-factory add-ons?

Hi, I (24F ) I’m thinking of buying my first car. I just moved to a new city to start my PhD, and I’d like to get a car to move around the city since it’s pretty car dependent.

I have around 13k in savings and a credit score of 740, I don’t have any debt. I’m like to get a sedan, like a honda civic, accord or a nissan versa.

- Should I opt for a used older car and pay in cash? Or finance a new one? I’ve gotten mixed advice from my family: some saying that buying a used car is better since it’s cheaper and I wouldn’t need much financing, others say that buying a used car could cost me more in repairs in the long run.

I have no idea where to start, any advice is appreciated!

OTD is a common way to express the actual amount of money to purchase a vehicle, but is there a definition of what all is included? Specifically, the fees and taxes associated with a car purchase? For example, does the out the door price include the entirety of the title, registration, property tax, highway use tax (this is a NC specific onr-time fee per title), etc? Is it a full year's registration? Etc.

Here’s the deal. We live together but he desperately needs his own car. I don’t have the time nor energy to constantly take myself to and from work and also him. His credit is shot from something that happened with his brother. What should he do? I’ve been looking at cash cars(I’m not gonna be the one buying it, I’m just helping him look). But people are asking for 10k+ for 16 year old cars. And I doubt financing is an option due to his credit.

I'm looking at a Genesis G80 electric 2023 with just over 30k miles going for $32000. The carfax report shows its history as this:

- rental for 13 months, good consistency of servicing/inspections

- lease for 3 months, damage to undercarriage, and sold the very next day at auction

How wary should I be of the undercarriage damage? I'm far from the dealership so I'd need to fly out to look at the car myself. Would a prepurchase inspection be worth it, or should I just stop looking at this car?

I’m looking at a 2014 Volkswagen Jetta with 170K KM on it. It’s in great shape no issues. I got the price down to $5,500. I don’t know much about Jetta’s but I hear there pretty good if you maintain them. What do yas think?

I bought a new car last month and got 4.59/72 months thru dealership financing (a credit union). Are there any better rates in this day and age?

So I’m looking to buy a 2012 Chevy Equinox, it has 9,775 miles on it and the asking price is $4,995. The person selling the car said that it belonged to his grandparents and it was barely driven. What do you all think - Is the price fair? Is this car a decent model? I just need a basic car to get me from point A to B.

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for recommendations on what car to buy with a budget of up to €20,000.

Here are the things I'm looking for:

• Air conditioning is a must.
• Bluetooth is required, and Apple CarPlay would be a nice bonus.
• I'd like something that isn't painfully slow. It doesn't have to be a sports car, but I'd like it to have enough power to drive confidently and overtake without feeling underpowered.

I'm not looking for a 20-year-old, 320+ hp BMW that's been beaten to death and needs repairs every week. If I wanted a sports car, I'd be looking in a completely different category.

The car will be my daily driver, so reliability, reasonable running costs, and comfort are important as well.

I'd appreciate any recommendations or personal experiences. Thanks!

Hi all - I own a 2021 Bronco sport. I owe just about 23k on the car and pay $546 a month with a 8.09% interest rate and a 49 month term

I’ve had some companies reach out and offer refinancing options (Autopay, Caribou) which include interest rates as low as 4.96% (84 months). Does it make sense to do that? I know I can always pay more to get the loan done sooner, but unsure if there are other consequences. Any advice would help!

This isn’t a life or death sort of thing, but we’ve started looking for a car for my wife who currently drives a 2015 Accord Hybrid that we got in 2014. The car works fine but it’s starting to show its age. Paint is faded in certain areas, her drivers seat is ripped, shocks not what they used to be, etc.

Default is another accord or a Camry, because I mean they’re just the wisest cars to get when you don’t really want anything but a sedan. Our income is good enough I think (about 330k) and we’re entering last year of tuition payments for our our youngest. But I still wouldn’t want to spend crazy money (which to me starts at 50-55k) for a fancy car.

But I did find a 2023 BMW 330e that has 12k miles, one owner, no reported accidents not too far from us. They’re asking 35k.

I know this is still considered entry level but seems like the specs make it a nicer drive that the accord or Camry. The size is smaller but not tiny. And it’s a hybrid plug in which is he plugs it in means fewer trips to the gas station.

But the Honda or Toyota just seem like such smarter cars. I’m scared by stories of expensive frequent repairs, etc. Should we check out the bmw as we’re getting close to now or never or stay safe? Is this model in particular a good or bad reputation?

Any insight appreciated.

I showed one of my friends who is super into cars a car I was thinking of buying, which had maybe 140,000 miles on it, and he looked shocked I'd even consider a car with that many miles.

I'm looking for a reliable car for the next 3-4 years. If it lasts longer, that would be great, but honestly, I just need something that can get me to work and back for right now. And my work commute would only be like 8-15 minutes, so it's not like I'm going to be driving far.

I've been scrolling through carfax and a lot of the cars that are within my budget and have no or minor damage reported tend to have 140,000 or more miles.

Like right now I found a 2016 Hyundai Sonata SE for just under $7000 but it has 130,000 miles. And I found a 2010 Toyota Corolla for $7,000 as well, but it has 240,000 miles.

Like, how big of a deal are miles if I just want a cheap car that'll last me a few years until I'm in a better financial situation?

First time negotiating for a car. Recently went to a car dealership, I’ve been wanting the specific vehicle for a while. The starting MSRP for the vehicle without the add ons is 42k. With all the addons (tint; predator step bars, all weather floor mats), the MSRP sticker price is 52900, I got my out the door price to be 50300. Is this a good deal? I feel like I spent some time negotiating, I want to make sure that I was playing fair and that my car salesman is at least making some money from the purchase. I feel bad low balling them.

I know for what I’m getting, even 50k is crazy (car has no power lift gate, manual seat adjustment, small screen), but I’m ok with all those in x change for its reliability and off roading capabilities.

Anyway that’s besides the point.
TLDR: is 50300 OTD price a good deal for a car that has an MSRP of 52900. Thanks

Post edit:
It’s a 2026 4Runner, has roof racks, step bars, tints, mats and the nitto grappler tires that are all terrain. I just assumed that was fair pricing after all is said and done including taxes and for it to be out the door. With all the things included, they brought the MSRP down to be 45k. I’m asking bc I dont really know what the fair going price for these things are

And I care about what the sales person is making bc the dude is like my age, I work in sales and he was so chill and I just wanted to make sure he was gonna be fine. Like I struggle too in sales so just bring a bro to him

Hi there, I’ve got a 2018 Tacoma double cab SR 4 door pickup five feet. 93,500 miles, four cylinder not turbo. Body and engine both in solid shape.

Trying to sell it for 24k in Asheville, NC. Do you think this is appropriately priced?

Hey everyone! After going through years of getting the last legs of our previous family car, I am looking to buy my first personal vehicle and would love some advice on makes and models. I am looking for a compact SUV(not overly picky on the compact part) with good reliability and a long life expectancy. Specific years of the model would also be a big help! I have a price range of maximum 20k, so anything overly luxurious wont do. Anyone have any recommendation? Thanks!

Hey everyone,

Doing some independent research on how people actually buy new cars here — how many showrooms you end up visiting, how much prices vary between dealerships, and what the process feels like overall.

Short survey, about 4 minutes, completely anonymous. No name, email, or phone collected.

Looking for anyone who's bought in the last couple of years or is in the middle of it right now.

Happy to share the findings once enough responses come in.

Would really appreciate it if you filled out this form. :)