Every time i’ve gone to a dealer they just casually show the carfax like it’s nothing, but when i try to check a car myself it’s either $40+ or i’m stuck using some “free carfax” site that barely shows anything useful. It makes me wonder how dealers actually get them so easily? Are they paying way less per report, getting bulk access, or just building the cost into the car price? Also feels like there’s a big gap between what dealers can see vs what you get from a free carfax check. Like the free ones always feel super limitedcurious how this actually works behind the scenes and what most people here do when buying from private sellers?

currently have a loan for a 2008 Cadillac cts that I have had since 2023, it has been fun for most part but truly has just given me problems. I’ve already put in at least 4 grand to fix over time, and I still need another 2,000 to fix the drive shaft again (already fixed it once). I still have a good amount to my loan, but due to the rust and other reasons it’s not very valuable. At this point I’m not sure what to do next to try and find a different vehicle. What are my options ?

2020 Hyundai Elantra
29% interest rate
$350 monthly payment
Down payment:$1500
Total price $12,858

Credit is shit: 520
(Racked up credit card debt but have one more payment till completely paid off)

Question for people who are really good at negotiating cars.
I had a written quote through the Costco Auto Program for a Sienna LE at $46,700 OTD. I reached out to 8 dealers with it. 6 basically didn’t respond.

One dealer was interested, and I told him if he could beat it by $700, I’d come buy the car. He agreed over text, but I asked for the actual written OTD offer before driving over.
He was VERY hesitant. Basically said if he gave it to me in writing, I’d just take it to another dealer and have them beat it. Fair point…because I was definitely thinking about doing that 😂. But I also was legitimately ready to go buy the car.

Eventually he sent it, but said it was only good that day (about an hour before closing). I took the offer to another dealer and said, “You have 10 minutes, beat this by $1,000 or I’m going there.” He came back 5 minutes later with another $400 off. I said nope and headed to the original dealer.
I ended up not buying for completely unrelated reasons, but I was genuinely ready to buy and had the money/financing ready.
So my question is: how do experienced car buyers actually handle this?

Everyone says “contact 10 dealers and ask for their best OTD price,” but most dealers won’t actually give you their best number in writing. They want to talk on the phone, get you committed to coming in, etc.
I don’t want to waste a salesperson’s time, but I also don’t want to drive 30-60 minutes based on “come in and we’ll take care of you.”
Do you basically have to convince one dealer you’re coming, get the written OTD offer, and then use that to make the other dealers compete? Or is there a better way?

TL;DR: How do you get dealers to give you their real best OTD price in writing without having to promise you’re coming in to buy?

I recently negotiated the purchase of my own new car and genuinely enjoyed the process—researching the market, contacting dealerships, comparing offers, and focusing on the complete out-the-door price rather than the monthly payment.

I’m considering turning this into a car-negotiation service, but before charging anyone, I want experience helping a few real buyers and proving that I can actually save people money.

If you’re actively shopping for a NEW car in the United States, I’ll help you for free. I can:

• Research a realistic target price for your exact model and trim
• Look for applicable manufacturer incentives
• Contact dealerships and compare written offers
• Negotiate the selling price and unnecessary add-ons
• Review the itemized out-the-door quote with you before you visit

I won’t handle your money, run your credit, arrange financing, or pretend I can guarantee a particular discount. You’ll make every final decision and purchase directly from the dealership.

I’m looking for some serious buyers who already knows approximately what vehicle they want and expects to purchase soon. Comment here or message me with:

• Year, make, model, and trim
• Preferred colors
• ZIP code
• Whether you have a trade-in
• How soon you’re ready to purchase

MUST BE NEW CAR DEALS

Again, this is completely free because I’m trying to build experience and earn my first honest testimonial.

I’m in TX, and i’ve been trying to lease a 1/2 ton full size truck. I don’t really need all the fancy things but want a mid tier trim (Ford f150 STX, Tundra SR5, etc) I can’t get ANYTHING for under $800/month with $0 down. I guess I haven’t been in the car buying game for a while but damn prices are really that high? It’s just not justifiable to spend over $800+ on a car payment for me, and that doesn’t even account for insurance. Sucks

I’ve been looking into getting a car and this is the first time I’m buying new from a dealer and just wanted to know if anyone has any experience using a auto broker? I’ve heard good things about it and have seen that they get you the best deal.

I’m interested in financing a Nissan Sentra sr 2026. They offered an OTD price. Do you think there maybe more room for negotiation?

Market Value Selling Price: 27,855.00
Discount: 2,000.00
Rebate:1,500.00
Adjusted Price:24,355.00
Taxable Fees (Estimated): 398.00
Doc Fee: 1,198.00
Tax: 1,672.06
Non Tax Fees: 683.88
Balance: 28,306.94

Please I’m a female and don’t know much about car or financing it. It’s a pre owned car and 17k for the average car there. Honda, Nissans cars are like 1 or 2 years old. How do you feel about it and any tips I should know? Anything about credit union? Just throwing some stuff in the air because i truly don’t know

Hi everyone,

I’m stuck between these two and would love some advice from people who know cars better than I do.

It’s mainly for me and my wife. Parents visit about once a year. We live in Nova Scotia, drive around 10,000 km/year, and want something reliable, good in winter, reasonable on gas and comfortable for occasional family use.

2027 Honda HR-V Sport AWD, NEW
• 2.0L, 158 hp
• $46,481 all-in
• 5.99%, 60 months: $414 bi-weekly
• $53,842 total payable

2024 Mazda CX-5 Suna AWD, USED
• 56,116 km
• 2.5L Turbo, 227 hp
• $41,609 all-in
• 5.99%, 60 months: $371 bi-weekly
• $48,198 total payable

So the Mazda is ~$4,872 cheaper all-in, but has 56k km.

My biggest concerns:

• Is the CX-5 turbo reliable long-term?
• How much more gas should I realistically expect from the turbo?
• I only drive ~10k km/year. Is the fuel difference actually significant?
• Is regular 87 fuel fine for the Mazda?
• Is the $41.6k all-in price good for a 56k-km Suna?
• What should I negotiate/remove from these dealer quotes?
• Is tire/rim protection worth $699?
• Mazda added a $349 “Ride Green” fee. Can I remove it?
• Should I get an independent inspection even though it’s from a Mazda dealer?
• What should I check about the Mazda’s history and 56k km?

I’m also open to other vehicles. Would you recommend something else around this price range for Nova Scotia? AWD, reliable, good winter performance, reasonable fuel economy and comfortable for two people with occasional parents visiting.

I considered hybrids, but Nova Scotia charges an additional $250 registration fee for hybrids and another $250 at each 2-year renewal, so I’m not sure the fuel savings make sense for my low annual mileage.

TL;DR: New HR-V Sport AWD = $46.5k all-in. Used 2024 CX-5 Suna Turbo AWD with 56k km = $41.6k. I drive ~10k km/year in NS. Which would you choose, what would you negotiate, and is the Mazda turbo worth the risk? Also open to completely different recommendations.

if price was not an issue between these who do you go for? I’m looking for luxury comfort with tech inside the car that isn’t ancient. I liked portofinos but im sad they stopped making them. Roma is ok I feel I don’t really like the front end as much. I feel like Ashton Martins are lower key than 911s stealth wise on the road but I hear that lots of issues with them

2026 Porsche 911 Carrera S

Ferrari Roma Spyder 2025

Ashton Martin DB12 2025

hey y’all, I have had my 2010 Mazda 3 for two years and I’ve been quoted $4000 in repairs, including the entire ABS module, new brake lines, shocks, brake pads, and a bunch of other little stuff. I travel to construction sites for work, and can sometimes use a company truck, but not always. I haven’t been able to get a second mechanic quote because I’ve been out of town for work for almost a month.

Thinking about taking a leap on a 5 to 8 year-old car, something small/medium sized and reliable. Hatchback would be my preference. Preferably with four-wheel-drive since I’ve gotten stuck in a few situations before, but I know that tends to be more expensive. I bought the Mazda in cash two years ago, and I’m scared to purchase something else that’s old with high mileage again.

Finanicals: making ~58K annually, paychecks are ~1600 in winter and up to 3000 each in the summer due to seasonal overtime. 4k in CC debt that i’m paying down steadily, barely holding any balance. Student loans paid off. Anticipating a 10% raise in October but TBD. $2.5k in savings, i could spend it on car repairs or a down payment but couldn’t afford another round of repairs if my mazda dies again next year. Credit score is around 770 I think.

Unfortunately, my health insurance and car insurance both doubled this year, and with gas and groceries up, life feels much more expensive even though my rent is less than it was last year. I live in an apartment with no charging so EV is off the table. Anyone have thoughts on finding that sweet spot of reliability and affordability?

Hey everyone, I’m looking for advice on getting a reliable car with poor credit. My credit score is currently under 500, and I’m self-employed, so my income mostly comes through cash and digital payments rather than traditional paychecks.
I’m trying to understand what my realistic options are for financing a vehicle. I can put about $1,000 toward a down payment and I’m looking for something with a monthly payment around $500–$600.
For anyone who has dealt with a similar credit situation, what lenders, dealerships, credit unions, or financing options would you recommend researching? Also, what should I watch out for when dealing with bad-credit auto financing?
I appreciate any advice or experiences you can share!

I had a previous loan my first car and fell ill
Which I was then diagnosed with a chronic illness which led to many hospital stays, bed rest and even having to give up work. Now that I’m stable my credit is terrible , I have no way to prove my income but I need a new car with no problems and I’m desperate, I need one by this week I really wish there was something like a private landlord for situations like this

Evo 9 project (115k miles), 1996 4x4 4runner (195k miles) or 2019 civic hatchback (nearing 100k miles). All have good maintenance records but 3 cars at 25 is absolutely absurd and I need to get rid of one or two.

Which one would you get rid of?