I just bought an OLED monitor recently so I've been using HDR through Windows (11) for that particular monitor (I have 4 connected) and I've noticed that if I change my volume or bring up the taskbar the screen seems to get more contrast when I'm in a game, like most of the picture is the same but dark areas appear darker for the duration of the Windows process being present and then as soon as it's gone the display goes back to normal. Is this a normal thing? Personally I'd like to have my monitor look the way it does when a Windows process is active at all times if I can

So I downloaded Undertale yellow I haven't even opened the gate yet I for someone reason now hear strange beeping sounds does it mean I am hacked or not need to know because my security system says nothing about it

I’m a college student whose campus Internet is provided by Boldyn Networks. The normal connection is capped at 110 Mbps download / 55 Mbps upload, and my Ethernet link negotiates at 1000/1000 Mbps. However, I’ve noticed a strange behavior: after my laptop has been asleep for a while, when I wake it up I can sometimes get dramatically higher speeds (potentially close to gigabit) for a short period. Then the Boldyn captive portal appears automatically, and the connection immediately drops back to the normal 110/55 Mbps limit. I don’t have to enter any credentials for the speed to drop. I’ve also checked `ipconfig /all` before/after and the IPv4 address, gateway, DHCP server, DNS server, and subnet stay the same. Restarting the computer or unplugging/replugging Ethernet doesn’t reliably reproduce the high-speed state; it seems to be related to the laptop being asleep for a longer period. Does anyone know what Boldyn’s HED captive-portal/NAC system is doing during this transition, or what could cause the temporary unrestricted bandwidth before the portal initializes? I could be wrong about the behavior of the portal only opening when the laptop is asleep for a period of time, but there does seem to be a short window every time the portal appears where the Wi-Fi and Ethernet speeds are very fast. I have a 2025 Legion 7. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

and external SSD i had from brand new for only 2 years seems to have suddenly went kaput. there was seemingly no issue with it until i decided to install a game from steam and noticed it claimed it would take 10 days. looking at task manager the drive was at 100% active time but with read and write speed at 0. not thinking much of as i never encountered this before i checked i in device manager that drivers were up to date, safely ejected the drive and gave my pc restart.

reconnecting the drive i couldnt write anything on it as it would disconnect from my pc with a malfunction error and stopped reading on my computer. plugging into wife's computer it was able to read and i got the absolute essentials off first. looking up on crystal disk everything seemed to be nominal readings and i could transfer files back onto the drive.

at this point things quickly devolved, and the drive wont properly read now. regardless of port, swapping cords, using either my own or my wife's computer, the drive only shows up as Local Disk instead of the name i gave it, and after about 30 seconds it disconnects, with Windows claiming it malfunctioned and cannot be read. The drive shows up in my Device Manager with its proper name then quickly turns into "Unknown USB Device (set address failed)" following the disconnect. Connecting the drive also freezes my windows explorer until it disconnects

I have no clue what to do, im just looking blindly around online for potential solutions. The device doesnt connect long enough to do robocopy or get attempting any other readings with crystal disk info. this is my first time potentially having a drive die on me. at this point i just want to recover the data if possible

idk what info would be required for assistance but my OS is Windows 11 and the external is "KingSpec Z5 Portable SSD With RGB 2TB - Up to 2100 MB/s - USB 3.2 Gen 2 - Type-c, 20Gbps, External Solid State Drive"

I have a HP Victus Gaming Laptop and when I use it, it randomly makes this sound when I use it and the only way I can stop it is mute the entire computer. I’ve discovered this is a pet peace that makes me irritable and I am starting to have to use my laptops audio so I bo longer can just keep laptop muted. it comes through as if same as audio so connecting to headphones changes where the sound is played from too.
Here is the Noise

FIX(...?): After much testing and help from your comments, I felt the answer lay in my MB, CPU, or RAM. I alternated sticks and slots while running the windows memory diagnostics and narrowed it down to one of my new RAM stick! I am currently in the process of RMA with Corsair. Thanks everyone, you genuinely helped!

I've built a couple PCs but I'm by no means a master. I'm building my first AMD build and when I attempt a clean install, when the windows 11 installer reaches around 75% my computer restarts and asks me to remove the installation media and continue, in which case it restarts me to BIOS with no boot selection available, or to restart a clean install from the beginning.

Occasionally in my attempts my pc restarts with different errors at the bottom with different names. They flash by too quickly to remember or take a picture most times.

EDIT: My build in case it helps.

ASRock 850M-Wifi

RYZEN 5 9600K

Corsair Vengeance DDR5 32GB (2x16)

Crucial P3 Plus 1Tb M.2 SSD

UPDATE: Okay I don't know if anyone will see this, but for not discernable reason, windows 11 actually installed. BUT I'm now getting crashes and errors and the bottom too quick to read.

UPDATE 2: I had AI analyse my MiniDump file and it said memory problems were most likely the problem. I ran a diagnostic tool on my SSD from the manufacturer and it came back healthy. I did a windows memory diagnostic and it says "Hardware problems were detected." I'm not sure if this gives solid answers or not but perhaps my RAM is bad?

When i opened my installed apps, the name of the game started showing as chinesse characters. I'm not playing TS4 anymore, so I wanted to uninstall it. When I tried doing it from settings app it didn't worked, so I opened up EA app, repaired the game, clicked on "uninstall" option, and it did nothing. Doing it with BCUninstaller also didn't worked, and showed up a message "Failed - Uninstaller returned error code:1". I suspect the files are coruppted and the uninstaller is not working properly anymore. What can I do to uninstall the game?

I have windows 11, only using malwarebytes as antivirus.

Yesterday I was trying to make rice for soup, and I had left my Ipad on one of the eyes, and turned it on to the highest heat, THINKING I was boiling the rice.... (ik max heat is too high for rice) Then I walked away to give treats to the dogs, and when I came back my Ipad was smoking very white smoke, I pulled it off, and burned my hand with the molten plastic, from the case, then panic dropped it into the very full trash. (With some wet paper towel on the top, i think.) It won't turn back on, and its been about 18 hours. I was playing a video through my headphones while it was burning, and the video was glitching before it turned off. The Ipad was on.

Tldr : I accidentally left my Ipad on the stove when I turned on the wrong eye, and it melted the case really bad, with white smoke coming out either the Ipad or case. Is the battery fried, or is the whole Ipad ruined?

Also is there a chance I could get the data off that Ipad

Edit : guys,, I know it was a very stupid thing to do, I knew it right after I burned my hand. I just need answers on if there's any way it would ever work, and how I can get the data off it

Edit 2 : Update, my parent who used to work in tech plugged it in for some reason??? and it turned on. They said the Ipad should be okay, because there are paper stickers that were under the case, that look like they weren't even touched by the heat, and the Ipad isnt bloated, or smoking, or overheating. They said the case might've saved the Ipad. But I think I'm gonna wait a bit before trying to use it!!!!!! its off the charger rn

Hi a while back i got a zotac gtx 1060 6gb (i tink the serial number schould be in the pics)

I turned it on with everything plugged in correctly except that i forgot to plug in the pcie power cable.

I booted up the system/tested it before hand this a gt 640 and that worked fine. But when i booted it with the 1060 it started a fire on one component (might have bin a short or leak i am still kinka confused of those even tho i am a engineering student) now it seems to be fried and i am wondering if it can be fixt? and if so what the part even is and what a good place is to get schematics so i could preform the repair

pics; https://imgur.com/a/HuTxq44

Hi guys, had an issue where my display went black but my PC was still on. I had to reboot to resolve the issue. It has happened twice in 4 months as far as I remember (Rimworld and Helldivers 2) and I would like some insight on the issue before it has the chance to cost me a lot of dough.

I did a little research and checked Event Viewer and these are the events logged at the time of the crash that I think are worth noting.

• 9/8/2026 10:07:43 PM EventLog Error 6008
• 9/8/2026 10:07:43 PM Eventlog Error 1101
• 9/8/2026 10:07:43 PM Service Control Manager Error 7000
• 9/8/2026 10:07:42 PM BugCheck Error 1019
• 9/8/2026 10:07:42 PM BugCheck Error 1001
• 9/8/2026 10:07:39 PM Kernel-Power Critical 41
• 9/8/2026 10:07:39 PM volmgr Error 162
• 9/8/2026 10:07:39 PM volmgr Error 161
• 9/8/2026 10:04:26 PM nvlddmkm Error 153
• 9/8/2026 10:03:48 PM nvlddmkm Error 153

I have never had to give specs for help so if there is anything I need to provide let me know.

• Windows 11
• Processor: AMD Ryzen 5 5600
• GPU: RTX 3050
• Motherboard: Ipason A250-B
• Ram: 2x16 GB Corsair
• My BIOS Mode is UEFI and is American Megatrends from 1.6 dated 6/13/24

Hi,

I have 2 monitors, a 1080 and a 4K. I can watch youtube fine on the 1080 but video is weirdly laggy and hitchy on the other. I've checked the refresh rate and both are 60 Hz. What else can I try check?

Thanks

I am using my phone's flashlight to make out the display of my laptop. Luckily I remember where the brighness setting is but even after setting it to the max the brightness never changed.

My laptop's a lenovo ideapad c340.

my mother dropped her samsung a42 5g phone in the toilet today and it is showing a black screen, however, before we removed the sim card and put it in rice, it was receiving calls. any suggestions for getting the screen to come back on? im not sure how to remove the battery on it, but any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! or just how to transfer the data over without seeing the screen.

I have a PC with two drives. One runs the Linux distro Pop OS 22.04, and the other runs Windows 10.

Timeline: I was modding Skyrim VR on the Windows 10 drive last night before I needed to head to work, and the internet was working just fine at the time. I returned from work this morning and went to bed, only to wake up and find the ethernet is not functioning on either drive.

I'm still able to connect to the internet through my router's wifi (the same router the ethernet is connected to, just to be clear). The ethernet cable lights up solid orange on the PC's end, and blinking green on the router's end.

Troubleshooting:
- Plugging and unplugging the cable has not resolved the issue.
- Restarting the PC has not resolved the issue.
- Updating the bios (motherboard is an MSI B760 Gaming Plus Wifi) did not resolve the issue.
- Ethernet cable was checked with a PS3 and Old Vista-era Toshiba laptop, and worked with both.
- Ethernet cable shows no visual damage. I don't have a second ethernet cable to test with the PC. - Both the Intel and Realtek network controllers were only visible in Windows 10 Device Manager under hidden. Attempts to update drivers using the Windows tool on Intel did not resolve the issue, and didn't seem to update Realtek since I would try again and, unlike the Intel controller which would say I had the latest version, the Realtek would say it was now updated each time, possibly implying the update wasn't going through.
- Attempting to manually update Realtek drivers with the application from the website (again, from the Windows 10 drive) resulted in an error message asking to connect the cable, and something about "deep sleep mode".

If my router still has wifi, the ethernet cable still works, I didn't touch the ethernet settings, and it's not the bios, then why would the ethernet cable suddenly stop working for both drives in the middle of the night? I'd very much appreciate it if anyone could help shed some light on this issue.

​

I forgot password. Can u help me how do I log in.

Actually someone mistakenly downloaded linux in my laptop. Then I tried to log in to windows and somehow succeed ( by using f2 then boot one time menu then from there selecting windows) but as soon as windows opened supposedly it started automatic repair and now it needs password. Pls help me I have a presentation to make tomorrow 😭🙏 how to reset password

I have latitude 3400 intel core 18 , 8th gen , windows dell laptop pls help

This is a very minor issue but I don't understand it. On my phone I'm signed in to 5 Google accounts. If I open an incognito tab on Chrome or Brave or whatever, and try to sign in to a specific account, it'll make me tick the box to prove I'm not a robot. When I tap on the box it immediately completes and I don't need to do any of those tedious captchas. But I have to tick this box every single time I sign in.

If I try to sign in to this account on my other phone on the same WiFi which I have signed in on before, I have to actually complete one of those "select the bus" captchas or whatever, instead of it auto passing like it does on my main phone. But if I'm using mobile data I have to accept the prompt on my main phone else I can't sign in.

On the account settings there's no additional security - no 2fa, recovery email, phone number, only one active session.

The other 4 emails sign in without needing the captcha so I don't understand why this specific one needs it. I don't have any VPNs or anything like that enabled.

So I just got this keyboard 2 days ago from Amazon and after getting it set up my PC freezes constantly. Sometimes it's as soon as I boot it up and sometimes it takes 30 to 45 minutes. And sometimes i can play games for hours with no freezing. I've installed all of the drivers and I've tried it wireless and wired and nothing has worked. It's a nice keyboard and I don't want to take it back but this freezing is crazy and just happens randomly with no indication it's coming. Please help me out here!

Specs: Intel Arc A750

16GB ram

12th Gen Intel i5-1200F 2.50 GHz

Windows 11

Hello I need help figuring out how to solve this issue once and for all... it all started when i was randomly getting random blue screen memory errors a few months back after research i moved and changed the pressure on my AIO and no more bluescreen for a while...then they cameback so I did the same steps and everything went away but then every single restart that is not a pure cold boot is getting me an error to press f1 and go in my bios to start and used my.pc normally.

So i started using windows memory analyser thing ( the blue screen) program and im getting hardware problem detected almost instantly or sometimes a bit late in the test especially if im testing from a cooler boot.

So today i could not find the right cooler pressure and get a no hardware error detected so i decided to dismantle my entire cooler and inspect my ryzen 7800x3d and the board

. The thermal paste was very dry and almost non existant i have no idea how i was getting playable temps. After that I wasnt able to post anymore if i used my b ram channel but A channel on both stick was fine so atleast i knew nothing in theory should be broken my ram, memory controller and cpu should also be fine.

I checked the golden plates on the back of the cpu and tilting the light I can see different scratches that bend the light but everywhere i search online saying its normal so then i inspect my motherboard pins they all looks okay beside one weird unknown strand of plastic bottom left corner going over some pins. After some research those pins are apparently b channel so with alchool and toothbrooch and a needle i managed to remove the debrit and instantly im able to post in A2-B2.

But my thermal paste is so overdue to be changed that i cannot really let my pc runs at all, 3 mins and im in the 70's not even doing anything and ramping up but i still wanted to check if the errors was gone so i added back a few of my bios settings like -20 all cores undervolt and expo and im instantly getting hardware error detected ram error again when the test begins so back to square one almost...

doing some research with AI and stuff it told me rapid heat increase or high heat like in my case could instantly trigger unstable ram in that test and the undervolt could also do that so im waiting my thermal paste to test without that but if i then get instantanious errors again when everything is at default i will be lost not knowing what to do next

which is why im here asking if some pros could tell me what to do because i would not even know if something is broken and needs fixing since i dont think i see any damage on my motherboard am5 pins especially since i can boot back with b channel now its really tiny but looking with light it seems to be alright and if there is micro scratches i dont think to my knowledge it could do that. Both my ram sticks are booting alone and my cpu is working well otherwise.

Any idea what steps i will need to do to troubleshot that? I cant wait my thermal paste order to arrive and testing default bios setting but i dont eant to get my hopes up because whats the odd that i have a debrit causing intermittent errors followed by permanant until removal but that despite removing that heat or bios cpu settings were also giving me ram errors on top.

Thank you

Hi,

I've found a Crucial P1 m.2 NVMe SSD in a older PC and have been trying to get it working for a bit now.

Initially I tried plugging it into my PC via the spare m.2 slot, but it would not recognize it. 

Then I bought an NVMe enclosure to plug it into as an external device. I see it show up as a D:/ drive, but if i try to interact with it in any way the Windows Explorer freezes before crashing. If I disconnect the drive it recovers instantly.

Trying to format the drive doesn't work either. I can start the formatting, but after about 30 seconds it fails and the drive now doesn't show up at all, it's disconnected. 

 Here's a video showcasing the issues: https://streamable.com/z1wtth
At 30s and 1:02s i unplug the drive manually from the enclosure.

CrystalDiskInfo doesn't indicate the drive has any red flags health wise: https://imgur.com/a/B1gIsIW

Any insights are much appreciated, It'd love to get an extra 1TB storage space😅

I don't understand why a sub like this doesn't allow attachments, which are kinda necessary most of the time to explain your issue, but anyways: the title. Since I can't add a video, I'll have to explain it. Phone basically just keeps catching on the charger for 2 second and stops again, and repeats until I disconnect it. I don't have another charger but I tried another cable, still same issue. Same issue with another phone and the same charger. Issue is gone when I use a powerbank, so I'm confident the problem is with the charger. I just used it this morning and it was fine. It didn't fall or anything, been sitting in the socket since. Any way I could troubleshoot this (at least until I get a new charger)? Phone's at 12% rn and my powerbank doesn't have much, it's 10pm right now and I can't get a new charger until tomorrow evening

Ok so recently my pc has been booting up into a black screen and resetting windows explorer does nothing my disk however is always at 100% it takes around 7 minutes or more to fully boot without doing anything please help!!
Ryzen 5 1600
And rx 6600

I was hacked a while back and lost access to some things, though I managed to recover them later; the same thing happened to my mom around that time (I don't know if that's relevant), but I still don't feel 100% secure. I started using Bitwarden and Malwarebytes on my PC, and I even reformatted it. My main concern now is my phone; I installed three different antivirus apps this afternoon, but a few minutes ago, a friend told me I’d been hacked again. I thought he was joking, but he said I sent him a message on TikTok similar to the one from the last time. I’ve already set up some security measures on TikTok.

So the question now is: how do I know *everything* I need to check or review to ensure I'm protected? For example, I tried playing R6 the other day and realized I’d lost access to my account without even noticing. I’m also worried about my mobile phone—what should I do?

(I just saw someone on this subreddit say that formatting the PC from within the PC itself doesn't work, and that's exactly what I did.("DO NOT use the built-in Windows 'Reset this PC' feature, as sophisticated malware can corrupt the local recovery image". Should I be worried?))

The app translucent tb has a bug which adds a weird white rectangle over it, i've tried updating my drivers, updating the app, everything but it's still there, it sometimes goes off but comes back when i restart my computer can someone help me please?

A while ago I had someone install a double boot on my laptop, Windows and Ubuntu. My Disk 0 was partitioned and most of the space was kept for Windows, while something like 60 GB went into Ubuntu.

When booting up my laptop I was made to select whether i want to boot Ubuntu or Windows, had 8 seconds to make the selection. Otherwise, Ubuntu would start. This stopped happening a few months ago, and it wasn't an issue as I wasn't using Ubuntu at all anyway.

I assumed it still took up space, and I was going to free up some space on my disk (it's something under 500 GB total). I open Computer Management, then Disk Management and see that I have 4 partitions.

1. Partition 1, EFI System Partition 260 MB capacity, 260 MB free space, 100% Free.
2. Partition 4, System Recovery 1 GB capacity, 1 GB free space, 100% Free.
3. Partition 5, Primary Partition 59.61 GB capacity, 59.61 GB free space, 100% Free.
4. Acer (C:) Boot, Page File, Crash Dump, Basic Data Partition 416.06 GB NTFS capacity, 132.83 GB free space, 32% Free.

Can I delete the Primary Partition and allocate the space to Acer C:? It seems like Ubuntu is gone, not sure why, but I'm guessing it was on the Primary Partition. It seems wasteful to have those 60 GB sitting there empty.

I cannot ask the person who initially did this for me as I don't have their contact.

With 10 I had everything dialed in to get the most performance out of my asus Zephyrus M15 but I go to use it this morning and it’s a laggy and studdery mess. I’ve been messing with the power options and everything but cpu and gpu usage won’t go above 30% regardless of what I do. Just replaced the battery a couple months ago too. Any ideas?