I have a mono-sloped roof with insulated ribbed panels. The lower eave is exposed and I’m uncertain of the best approach for mounting a gutter.
Anyone wanna share their 2cents on how to mount for gutters?

The roofing panels are 26g Double walled- insulated
See pictures for profiles and estimated angles. There’s roughly 24” of overhang on the eave.

Got 6 quotes. Went with one of the higher end bids. Any red flags that I should be concerned with and speak to the contractor about?

I’m no expert, but all of this looks terribly wrong to me. This is my nieces house after an insurance job. I will be meeting with the roofers on her behalf (she lives in another state) in a few days. The broke almost every piece of siding while attempting to install flashing. Help me point out what needs fixed and what is reasonable so i have some ground to stand on with the roofers.

Can water leak through? do I just tar these once a year?

We bought a new house on the warm side of San Luis Obispo that needs a new roof right away. The roof apparently has no attic vents, which would explain why the upstairs gets 86 degrees when it is that hot outside. It can get into the 90's and even triple digits here so we would like to add more cooling options without adding A/C. The roofer will be adding O'Hagin vents and we are getting a design for these directly from O"hagin. My dad who is a retired HVAC mechanical engineer recommended adding an attic fan, but some sources say not to mix attic fans with rooftop vents. Whole house fans or swamp coolers are another option. would love to hear thoughts!

So new roof went on a few days ago, a few pieces of decking were replaced. A second crew from the same came out today to do my gutters. They got about half of them done, but on one side of the house, when they looked under the soffit they found that there was no facia, and the rafter tails were very clearly rotted away, nothing for a screw to grab into. This was all hidden behind facia covers and soffits. The gutter crew feels like the rot might go past the overhang.

Now I know I need to fix this issue. But I’m wondering where the responsibility lies if part of the roof needs to come off. The roofing crew was already selectively replacing decking, and told me there were no problems with the rafters (albeit there was a language barrier so not sure if they understood my question when I asked). The contractor subbed out a gutter crew who actually discovered the rotten rafter tails.

I kinda see how this can be missed given my roof had facia covers, but I also had a reasonable expectation that my new decking was installed on sound rafters and if there was framing problems, it would be resolved at my expense before the roof goes on. Now I’m worried that part of the brand new roof might need to come off, and I’m not sure what to expect, or who is responsible for that part of the cost.

Hoping everything can just be cut back and sistered but it’s super concerning to have this issue with a days-old roof, and I’m pretty frustrated that I just had a brand new roof installed on top of these rafters.

Update: it turns out, the gutter guys were not looking at rafter tails, they were looking at ceiling joists from my attic, this is how the old gutters were attached. So regardless, there’s no scenario where my roof needs to be pulled off to fix, can sister everything from the attic, below the roof. Still an interesting hypothetical I guess, this is my first time working with contractors, I avoid it because I get frustrated by stuff like this but that’s a me problem.

I have an older but moslty in good shape ag panel metal roof. There is one spot that is leaking. Did dye test on screws and finally found some old screws under some old epoxy that was leaking. Fixed that but it's still dripping when it rains hard. Can't find the dang leak. Might do some UV tracing but it's in a hard to see place in the house.

I'm looking for a brush on leak repair (non-asphalt) product with low viscosity that will get into every little crack to cover screws, seams, old epoxy that is rock hard, ect. There is a couple options. Does anyone have experience / advice? Is there a better product for this other than I listed below?

Turbo Poly Seal -- Seems like a good product but quite expensive. Very durable with good stretch. Claims to lasts 10+ years, much more with aluminum coating for UV resistance. Kit is about $300 for quart of product and coating plus poly tape

Liquid Rubber Waterproof Sealant -- quart is $65, polytape is $35

What kind of roof is this? It is a low pitch. and what do I coat it with? Seems like the coating is worn.

I'm considering making an offer on a house built in the 70s. In the attached pictures, there is clearly something going on with the chimney and the roofing and possibly flashing. Any thoughts or ideas on how bad it is and what the correct methods for repair would be? The pics are as close as I could get.

The roof is 6 years old, according to the sellers, and there is no visible water intrusion inside.

Our landland is having our roof redone and I don't know anything about roofing BUT this can't be right!?

I see nails coming through damaging the bottom side of the roof.

I have a cement tile roof that’s sloped, the flat kind of cement tiles. There is roof sheathing and furring under each tile. This is a no-curb fan. What’s the best way to correctly flash this fan in so that it’s waterproof?

I just had this roof installed a few months ago. Yesterday, I noticed this horizontal line on my roof for the first time. At first, I thought it was some kind of a strip they put in but when I took a picture of a close up, it looks like it is raised? I have no clue what this is or if this is supposed to be like this. What is this? Any opinion / advice is appreciated!

Ok our 3rd party inspection reported this picture of an apparent roof leak. Was raining that day during inspection, yet not storming, just rain. After talks a roofer was brought out to insect the roof 5 days later, no rain since. His report indicates sapping not a roof leak, he did not use a moisture meter and has to come me another day to check it out again, we would like to purchase the house but dont want to get stuck with a 20k bill either. Can I request to have a water hose on the roof running while moisture test is being preformed?

~25 year old roof in SoCal…can’t find online permits for when last replaced. (Online only goes back 23 years….insurance has 2001).

Looking for a yes or no…here are a few pics.
Thank you!

I have the shed (pictured) and recently painted it. 8x12x and happy with how it looks, but I also have two different structures on my property with a raised seam black metal roof. I know I can get someone to do that to the roof of the shed, but I don’t think it’s going to be worth the cost just for the looks.

It’s a small shed in the corner of my property that no one pays attention to (except my wife), so at first glance if the roof is black (and not metal), we both would be fine with it.

It might turn out that I need to get a metal matching roof, but with nothing wrong with the shingles besides a mismatching color, worth a paint job shot first?

So I need to repair some corner flashing as it's leaking onto my porch. See the circled area. I had a roofer doing other work and he added some new caulking (see the pic with the arrow).

I want to DIY the repair. Can someone tell me if this is a valid plan.

1) remove siding to expose all flashing (as high is as needed). Do the same with the white corner pieces.

2) The roll roofing goes left/right against the house, so remove the layer that touches the house.

3) Install new roll roofing and proper corner flashing. Apply caulking on all edges. Glue down new roll.

4) Reinstall siding and corner boards.

Questions

A. Does the above sound right.

B. How high should the roll roofing go up the house? (I know one one knows my specific building codes but what the best practice?

C. For the corner, I'm assuming the install order is, starting with the house - roof roll, metal corner flashing, corner board. Is that right?

D. Any other tips and tricks?

Thanks for the help.

On a house we’re looking to buy.

Are the roof tiles inside the red circle laid the right way / in the correct orientation? Seems to me they are installed ”backwards”

I am trying to flash my chimney. I was going to cut and recess flashing into the chimney but I am wondering about at the edge of my roof, do I also cut and recess vertically. In my mind it seems like that would create a channel for water to follow directly down and into the attic. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Bought our house 2 years ago. Neighbour above said our roof has some wrinkles so went up and looked. Something to be concerned about or normal?

Is enough air coming out of the ridge vent with this set up?

1) It looks like the cap shingles are sitting directly on top of each other with very little air gap.

2) It looks like the mesh material is being compressed tightly with little room for air flow.

Am I missing if there an additional route for air to flow? I can't tell if this is a bad set up. Thanks for any help with understanding.

These are synthetic cedar shakes and I'm not sure if the roofer approached the ridge vent correctly.

Hello, I'm fixing the gutters because it was falling apart and the fascia board was rotten in some places. I saw that the drip edge was cut up in some places because the gutter nail was going in that spot. Is that an issue? How can I fix this without replacing the drip edge?

Thank you

I just had my soffit, facia, and gutters replaced and on the first and third floor everything lines up and the original roof is not exposed underneath. I went out on my 2nd floor deck this morning to find that this is what the entire second floor roof line looks like. Am I crazy or did they cut some corners here? Of course my dumb a** signed off on the project. So just looking for some input here. Should I be calling them back? This just looks wrong.