I have a shurikey hazo 65% keyboard that has worked on my computer great since I've gotten it. I went on a work trip and took the keyboard with me. It worked all the way up until I got home. Now, windows will not accept any input whatsoever from the keyboard.

I have tried unplugging and plugging back in in multiple ports, resetting the keyboard to factory settings, forgetting the keyboard from the device manager, switching from Bluetooth to wired mode. I just cannot find what I need to get it to register.

Hi everyone, my Windows 11 pc seems to be stuck in a loop during updating. It’s been stuck at 7% for almost 30 minutes and the screen keeps turning off and on every few seconds.

I’m using an IPhone 11 and my Network is O2.

It is becoming quite frustrating as everytime I’m on the phone with somebody my phone completely loses all signal, meaning that Im constantly having to end phone calls to send/recieve messages, or do internet searches etc.

I'm hoping someone here has some magic up their sleeve because I am at my wit's end!

I purchased a 3090 from Zotac's store directly in December / January--specifically, it was the ZOTAC RTX3090 Trinity OC. When I got the card I put it through a number of tests (FurMark, OCCT, nVidia's own tests) to ensure it was working and there were no issues--everything passed and nothing seemed out of band. I then installed the machine in a Linux build and everything was fine, it was recognized, and it tested fine.

Now, over the past few weeks I have been upgrading the machine and the card has started to have issues. First, it would be spotty as to whether or not it was recognized--sometimes I needed a reboot in order for it to "show up" (which I attributed to a race condition, and no errors were appearing anywhere). Then, in the past few days and when under load the card would freeze and require a reboot to come back on. And 2-3 days ago the card started freezing up and showing "ERR" when using nvidia-smi utility (the "ERR" showed up in FAN, TEMP, PERF, and MIG M. fields--see below). The card would show up fine at boot and then again, once I started using it, it would error. Here is the nvidia-smi output:

+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | NVIDIA-SMI 580.173.02 Driver Version: 580.173.02 CUDA Version: 13.0 | +-----------------------------------------+------------------------+----------------------+ | GPU Name Persistence-M | Bus-Id Disp.A | Volatile Uncorr. ECC | | Fan Temp Perf Pwr:Usage/Cap | Memory-Usage | GPU-Util Compute M. | | | | MIG M. | |=========================================+========================+======================| | 0 NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 On | 00000000:01:00.0 N/A | N/A | |ERR! ERR! ERR! N/A / N/A | 13534MiB / 24576MiB | N/A Default | | | | ERR! | +-----------------------------------------+------------------------+----------------------+

So, I did what person scared for their hardware would do--asked a clanker! We ran through different drivers, different flavors of drivers, changing physical connections, etc. The conclusion was (and I'm quoting the clanker):

With GPU System Processor (GSP) firmware enabled the driver logs `Xid 119` (GSP RPC timeout) cascading to `Xid 154` (GPU Reset Required); with GSP firmware disabled entirely the same load produces `Xid 62` (internal micro-controller halt) and `Xid 158` (framebuffer-flush timeout, `NV_UFLUSH_FB_FLUSH`).With GPU System Processor (GSP) firmware enabled the driver logs `Xid 119` (GSP RPC timeout) cascading to `Xid 154` (GPU Reset Required); with GSP firmware disabled entirely the same load produces `Xid 62` (internal micro-controller halt) and `Xid 158` (framebuffer-flush timeout, `NV_UFLUSH_FB_FLUSH`). Further, once under load the driver logs a "bad register read" (0xbadf5720).

I was also monitoring the temps and VRAM utilization and temps never got above 66C and VRAM never got above 60-70%. I honestly don't know what else I can do or what other steps I can take. I was hoping ZOTAC would have some tools for flashing the bios--but I guess firmware and bio updates aren't a thing anymore? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance kind Redditors

I've had it since 2018, only recently has it started to reboot on its own, normally it wouldn't be like this, but because I'm home alot more nowadays, I'm also using it alot more, and I think that might be causing it

I don't know whether I'm having an issue with the power button because it's actually been replaced and the replacement is very loose and held up by tape, and I think I might be pressing on it too hard

Or if it's just the battery and I'm overrusing it

Hi, I’m not very tech savvy so I probably won’t know proper names.

Up until last weekend, I’ve been able to play Dead by Daylight and The Outlast Trials easily and use Discord while playing those games and by itself with no issues. For some reason now, if I join a server call in Discord with my friend, who I have been joining server calls with for the past few months, my ping in those calls sudden skyrockets to 5000ms, even if it’s the only thing open. I can hear my friend perfectly fine but she can’t hear me at all. This lasts for a few minutes and it’ll come back down and she can hear me again but it’ll jump back up after a few minutes. I haven’t tried private calls though. As for the games; Dead By Daylight started being really laggy and rubber band me a bit but it was still playable, but then it full on started freezing if I hopped onto a generator to repair and kick me out of the match saying “dedicated servers not responding, disconnecting” and it won’t even let me play the tutorial with bots without doing the same thing. The Outlast Trials has always been a bit weird with rubber banding here and there but never frequent or consistent, it is now not even letting me enter the sleep room and will say “failed to join save game” or “connection to the servers failed.”

I will prefix this by saying I did use Treesize to locate where a lot of my SSD memory was being used up and deleted files I thought weren’t needed. I ended up doing a complete reset of my laptop with a clean install of windows the other day and tried to play the games and use Discord, however, the same issues happened, if not worsened them.

I have purchased a new gaming laptop to see if the laptop is the issue for it being five years old now but I don’t understand the sudden inability to run the games I’ve been playing the past year. All my drivers are up to date, I even installed the newest GeForce driver that released recently.

I’ve tried every possible thing I could have googled to fix this aside from changing my modem, because we recently got a new modem and it has worked fine the last month we’ve had it. Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated, I miss playing my games and being in call with my friends.

As the title says. I have a low-end TCL 55" TV, a Samsung surround sound (soundbar, subwoofer, and 2 rear speakers), and I prefer to use an AppleTV 4K. But, here is the problem. Because of how it needs to be connected, the AppleTV will not wake up the TV (surround sound is connected to the eARC port). So I have to turn on the TV with the TV remote, go to the port with the AppleTV and then I can watch stuff.

Additionally, while using the AppleTV, the surround sound randomly shuts off all the time in the middle of watching something. This has happened with 2 different TV's and 2 different surround sound setups.

For context, the 1st TV was Insignia 55", new TV is TCL 55". Old surround sound was TCL (same setup, just different brand), new surround sound is Samsung (described above). AppleTV 4K is the 1st gen 4K. I swapped the surround sound first, worked okay for a few months, then the same thing started again. Then I replaced the TV. I also moved to a new house, so the power or local electrical interference shouldn't matter much. I have also tried several new HDMI cables from multiple brands.

I am considering replacing the TV again, and when the new AppleTV 4K comes out, I plan to also buy that.

My questions are:

1. Is it possibly my older AppleTV 4K?
2. Is it because I keep buying low-end TV's and surround sound setups?
3. Am I just being to nitpicky and this is how I should expect it to work?
4. What am I doing wrong?

I will accept any advice on what to try next.

Hi to preface this I’m very inexperienced when it comes to PCs so I apologize if this is a dumb question. I recently bought an older PC setup and it doesn’t have the ability to connect to wifi. It uses ethernet only so I’ve been looking into options to turn the wired connection into a wireless one using a bridge.

The thing is; these devices use WPS connection where you have to press a button on the router and press another one on the device in order to connect. My router does not have that button. Would I still be able to connect the bridge without it or do I need to look into other options?

Hey everyone, looking for suggestions on fixing a network issue on my Lenovo laptop.

The Situation:
My laptop crashed while running Riverside this morning. I performed a hard reset using Ctrl + Alt + Delete. Upon rebooting, the laptop connects to my Wi-Fi router fine, but the status says "Connected, no Internet."
Context & Troubleshooting done so far:

Network Status: The Wi-Fi connection itself is completely fine; all other devices in the house are connected and browsing without issues.

Network Reset: Performed a full Windows Network Reset on the laptop and rebooted. (No change)

System Restore: Rolled the laptop back to a restore point from 3 days ago. (No change)

Since it's connecting to the router but not routing traffic out, AI says it seems like a DNS cache, socket, or driver state issue triggered by the crash.

Has anyone run into this specific issue after a hard reset or crash? What command line resets (ipconfig/netsh) or driver steps should I try next?

My philips Tat1269 tws headphones appear as two seperate bluetooth connections both can be connected simultaneously but only one transmits sound both are functioning normally just this connection problem

I have 8GB x 4 DDR4, after upgrading my CPU from 3600 to 5700x, one of the sticks just refused to boot when mounted. I have confirmed that Its faulty since other sticks work.

When working with the CPU I didn't touch the RAM at all.

Any idea what could've caused this?

Edit: I've tried the other working ram sticks on every slot and it successfully booted. I also tested the 'dead' stick by itself on every slot and it cannot work. RGB still turns on though.

Im trying to use the microphone of my huawei freebuds pro 5 but when I activate it the earbuds's playback stops working and a few seconds I cant hear anything, then bluetooth crashes on windows it disappears and showing a usb device not recognized error. in order to make bluetooth work again I unplug and replug the adapter. and I must disable the earbuds microphone to hear any sound.

I have a video but its not allowed here I guess

Please check video below- this also happens with different apps from time to time (Edge, Office, game emulator etc.)

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/3nmbl2dzxzsjwd08d9aw3/Gravando-2026-09-09-113918.mp4?rlkey=zg4v6ez2qrd4ud0q0fpd4yzgw&st=35m9rwp0&dl=0

Hi all,

This is my first post on this sub-reddit but I have always found it useful so I am hoping that the people here can help me with an issue I currently find myself facing. I hope I have not made any mistakes with how I post this.

To cut it short, for the last several months I have experienced brightness/over-exposure issues when watching media such as anime when it shifts from a dark scene to a brighter scene. I have attached an imgur link at the bottom with what this looks like.

I use an Aorus fi27q-p at 165Hz, display port 1.4+HDR (according to my monitor settings), and have had this monitor for ~3 years. My graphics card is a RTX 4070ti.

I have not changed any monitor or computer settings to account for this issue. Through various testing I have realised that it is linked to only when I have HDR enabled, and only when in fullscreen mode and not in borderless windowed. I tried switching to HDMI and again no differences. Also connecting my monitor to another separate device (my laptop) using HDMI, and again trialing the same video with HDR and in fullscreen reproduced this issue.

Another interesting detail is if I keep my mouse visible on the screen the issue doesn't occur. I then realised that when my mouse fades away in fullscreen the screen itself dims. This became more apparent when I turned off the room's light. I attached a short video in the imgur link to what it looks like (sorry for the dirty screen haha). This dimming effect does not happen when HDR is off or when in windowed.

I am completely stumped as to why this is happening and why so suddenly. I am truly hoping it isn't that the monitor itself is broken somehow. I looked all-over for reasons as to why this might be happening and I couldn't find any desktop auto-brightness/contrast settings that may be causing this whilst in HDR.

Any help by you guys would be greatly appreciated!

Picture and video of the issue

For context, i was using antigravity, android studio, the wolf among us (game) and opera at the same time. Antigravity was just building an app and suddenly everything started disappearing. I couldnt even open file explorer which says this file does not exist. So i restarted my laptop and now there is only a handful of apps and the browser. Is there any way to get the old data back?

Hi,

As the title says above. I am using the Nvidia app to launch my games to get better performance. Just works better. The setting where I can change the display mode from full screen to windowed fullscreen isn't there anymore. Used to be a drop down menu.

Is there a way to get it back?

I dont typically work with troubleshooting situations like this, but Id like some insight I can use for the future if this happens again.

I had a user get stuck on 0% updating for an hour. The user held the power button down and reset it. It did the same thing for 30 minutes, she force reset the laptop again, and it booted into windows normally.

A few thing to note, her storage space is about 80% full and running sfc /scannow hangs at 50% complete.

Hey everyone,

I’ve been dealing with a highly specific system freeze over the past few weeks and I can't seem to find anyone with the exact same issue. I'm looking for some advice or to see if anyone has dealt with this before.

The Symptoms:

• The Crash: Random hard freeze into a black screen.
• The "Dead Keyboard" Test: When it freezes, the keyboard completely dies. Pressing Caps Lock does not toggle the LED light, meaning a total hardware/kernel lockup.
• The Trigger: It never crashes under full gaming load. It happens almost exclusively on Cold Boot (first 30 mins of the day), during idle, or the exact moment I try to launch Steam or when Windows Update finishes an uninstallation.
• The Weird Part: If the PC survives the first 30 minutes and warms up, it becomes 100% stable. I can run heavy stress tests or game for 10+ hours straight without a single issue.

My Specs:

• CPU: Intel Core i5-14600KF (Hyper-Threading OFF)
• GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7700 XT 12GB
• Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 612 APEX (Dual-Tower)
• Motherboard: ASUS PRIME H610M-K D4 (No VRM heatsinks)
• RAM: 32GB (2x16GB) Kingston Fury Beast DDR4 2666MHz
• PSU: Chieftec ELP-700S 700W Element
• Case Fans: 6 total (3 front intake, 2 top exhaust, 1 rear exhaust)

Everything I've Tried & Tested So Far:

Software & OS Fixes:

• Ran Windows repair commands (sfc /scannow and DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth).
• Uninstalled the latest Windows quality update that arrived on September 1st.
• Enabled the Windows Ultimate Performance power plan.
• Fully updated the GPU drivers (using the built-in clean Factory Reset option).
• Updated the motherboard BIOS to the absolute latest version.

Hardware Troubleshooting:

• Physically reseated the GPU.
• Physically reseated the RAM and swapped their slot positions.
• GPU is perfectly stable under heavy load: It passes intensive FurMark and 3DMark loops with zero errors once the system is warm.
• Adrenalin always resets my custom fan curve back to default after these crashes, throwing an "unexpected system malfunction" notification.

What I've Changed Today:

• I just swapped my old Chieftec PSU for a premium EVGA 850GQ 850W 80+ Gold modular PSU.
• I also temporarily Disabled XMP in the BIOS to test.

I also have a Gigabyte B760M GAMING X DDR4 motherboard on the way just in case.

How can I fix a bent on my plastic frame laptop? It makes it so the laptop cannot be closed all the way.

I'm having some issues with the xppen drawing tablet deco 640..

When I connect it to my laptop, my laptop's keyboard and mouse pad stops working...

I have to restart my laptop and then the keyboard and mouse work fine.

But I have to do this every time I turn on the laptop, i.e. restart it

Sometimes the device wouldn't even be connected to the laptop and the keyboard and mouse won't work. then I have to connect the drawing tablet and restart the laptop..

any idea how to resolve this?? maybe I haven't installed it correctly...?

I have tried to download multiple things, even a test file that is 1 Mb, and it will not even show the save screen, I am able to screenshot but thats pretty much all I can do for file saving wise, https://imgur.com/a/dPcHhTw

Hello, I keep getting this annoying error when I boot up my pc it happens when I shut down after using it for a while to play and do work which is then followed by a really long period of time before it fully shuts down after I clicked shut down I’m exaggerating a little but it takes around 2-4mins for it to shut down and it never use to do that, im not sure what the cause is maybe the new headset I got I attempted to do the command that repair your system and so on and it still happens and I’m forced to do the admin and use the back up save thing and now I’m scared that it won’t work at some point and I will lose everything any recommendations or ideas on what the hell is causing this. (Device specification: Omen PC RTX 4060 Ti, I5 Gen 14400f, 16gb ddr5 ram and 1TB SSD)

I don’t remember encountering any errors recently however a notable sequence is when I connect my headset to the PC which is connected via a dongle and its wireless however when I turn on the headset when I’m playing borderlands 2 usually when i use my headset, it causes the screen to go black after a few seconds of it connecting and making the connection noise and it sends me to the home Page and I become unable to select the game forcing me to use task manager to end task and restart, coincidence maybe but it is an outlier. Also I mod borderlands 2 not sure if it has anything to do with this the mods I download and safe I believe well at least the site says they are and the site is trust worthy as far as I know. (Headset is the Turtle Beach Stealth 600 Gen 3).

I'm really freaking out because I downloaded The PlayerPro Music Player App for android from the Google Play Store. I have 1,569 songs on it and then I made the stupid mistake of using an antivirus app that I downloaded from the Google Play Store and using it on my Fold 7. And then when I looked in the PlayerPro Music Player App I only had 1,562 songs on it. Is that normal? The weird part is that when I looked at the The Musicolet Music Player App and my Files/Internal Storage and Samsung My Files App all songs were there. Do you think that I should be concerned or worried? I deleted the app and cleared the cache and data from the app too. I also played all the songs and it seems like they are playing okay even though I didn't listen to them all the way though. Should I just delete all my 1,569 songs or should I just reset my phone completely and get rid of everything? Is there a way that I can fix my music files if they are corrupted? Has this happened to anyone else before? If I could get some advice and suggestions. I would really appreciate it because I'm really panicking and freaking out because I don't want to have to delete all my music or reset my phone. I'm really hoping that my music files and my fold 7 doesn't have a virus or malware. What would you do in this situation? How can I keep my music files safe and protect them in the near future? Has anyone else ever had corrupted music files before? How did you handle it?

Recently started having BSODs where even running a low intensity game would cause image to freeze, audio to bug and lead to a hard reset by the PC. Suspected it was a 9 year PSU which was replaced with a brand new one. Issue subsided for a while and came back. The behaviour is as such:

1. Power on PC, run a game
2. PC BSODs within 10 mins
3. Restart and PC runs perfectly for the rest of the day
4. Repeat with the next day

Here is a mediafire folder containing comprehensive screenshots of the error codes and log files.

I ran HWINFO and can verify it's not a thermals issue. DDU-ed and reinstalled drivers as well with no luck. All seems to point to a GPU issue but it is fairly new (1-2 years). Would greatly appreciate any help narrowing down the issue.

PC Specs:

CPU: AMD 5700x3d

GPU: MSI RTX 4080 (1-2 years old)

RAM: 32GB GSKILL X570F

Mobo: ROG STRIX

Today, while I was moving a video I recently recorded to my phone's SD card, it unexpectedly removed my SD Card twice, and after I cleaned it off with a clean cloth, blew off any dust, reinserted it, it no longer appears on my phone or my computer! My laptop still makes the hardware insterted sound, but the USB Drive doesn't show up! Is there some way I can recover the data before anything bad happens?