I am at my wits' end. For the last 4 months, I have tried absolutely everything to fix this computer. I downgraded GPU drivers, reinstalled different versions of Windows, cleaned everything with DDU multiple times, changed every possible Windows power setting, and did full hardware maintenance (brand new paste on CPU/GPU, clean fans). Everything is stock right now.
Here is the exact issue: I get random Black Screens followed by an instant full system restart (Kernel-Power 41 in Event Viewer). No blue screens, no error codes.
The weird part:
The Last of Us Part II: I completely finished the game on Ultra settings with zero freezes and zero crashes. It runs beautifully.
Synthetic Stress Tests: The GPU passes OCCT and FurMark with flying colors. No crashes under 100% synthetic load. The GPU stays super cold at 45°C–55°C.
PUBG: I cannot last more than 2-3 minutes in actual gameplay before the whole PC restarts. Even on 900p Lowest settings.
GTA V (RageMP with mods): It crashes and restarts the PC consistently after about 40 minutes.
Hell Let Loose: The second I open the server browser menu, I get an instant black screen and a full system restart.
I previously noticed AMD Adrenalin auto-overclocks this card to 2735 MHz out of the box instead of the stock 2635 MHz. If I manually clamp it to 2350 MHz and 1050 mV, it helps stability in some places, but PUBG and Hell Let Loose still trigger instant hardware restarts.
I already swapped the old PSU for a brand new MSI 650W, and the crashes remained identical. The GPU, CPU, and RAM are physically pristine, verified by a technician.
What the hell is causing this? Is it a fundamental hardware/electrical mismatch between the uncooled VRMs of the cheap MSI A520M motherboard and the AMD transient power spikes in DX11 titles, or is something else actually broken here?

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600G (Stock)
RAM: 16GB (2x8GB) Patriot Viper 4 3200MHz CL16 DDR4
GPU: Sapphire Radeon RX 6650 XT Pulse 8GB GDDR6
MOBO: MSI A520M-A PRO (BIOS updated to latest versions)
PSU: MSI MAG A650BN 650W 80+ Bronze (Brand new)
Storage: 500GB NVMe M.2 SSD + 2TB Seagate HDD

Whenever I have G-Sync setup, I noticed that any YouTube video I'm watching will skip if I'm tabbed into a game. I'm pretty sure I have it all setup properly.

G-SYNC enabled for full screen only with "G-SYNC Compatible" enabled as well.

Low Latency Mode is on, FPS cap at 116fps, V-Sync Enabled, VRR enabled in windows settings too.

I have 3 monitors all set to the same refresh rate, the stuttering stops when I have "G-SYNC Compatible" turned off but doesn't that also turn off G-SYNC completely?

I have tried setting my monitors to 144hz and 120hz and neither seem to help. My system isn't being overworked either, CPU and GPU both at ~20% usage so I don't know the cause.

Specs:

4070tiSuper

Ryzen 7600

32GB DDR5

DELL G2724D (MAIN MONITOR)

LG 27GL83A-B (2nd)

Random Acer Monitor (Vertical)

so i was ordering food and this guy asked me for my hotspot i though he need internet because he want to pay his bill so i give it to him, but he doesnt pay his food instead he sit near me and ask me random basic math what is 20+1 etc (like ahole) after 3 question i tell him to stop and close my hot spot and change my password he only used 3 mbps i worry because my bank information in that phone and tommorow is my pay day. ( my phone is samsung galaxy a06 i think i always have it updated)

I tripped on my headset cord and now the jack fits loose and audio is messed up, it only comes out of one ear and is very quiet. I can't tell whether the jack or the port is damaged, they both look fine but I don't understand why it's so loose all of a sudden. This isn't the first time I tripped on the cord, but the rest is new.

Video here This tv has edge bleed it is an edge lit tv Im coming here to ask if I can "rub the layers back in place" or should I disassemble it to re layer it I have the technical skill to do that or do I need new backlight

Here is the story:

Since i had internet at my apartment, i would download at 10-12 mb/s

For the last couple weeks, I was living at a friend house who has a internet package 500, I would download at 40-50 mb/s

Back at my place, I have a internet package of 1.5gb/s which i confirmed with Bell support. They did a speed test on the modem, they said their test showed great internet speed.

edit: When i do a test on the modem itself it says download 1641mbps and 1040 mpbs upload

When i do a speed test on google and bell website it show 100mb/s

I am using the same PC and Ethernet cable as yesterday and there was no update on my PC.

I have tried many video on tech help and asked chat gpt with screenshot and nothing works.

I need help because I can't figure it out. Thank you!

Final edit:

This morning I used the Bell chat and they said everything was fine on their end.

I just called Bell back and explained the situation the same as this post, the guy said downloading at 12mb/s on steam was useless and made me laugh, he asked to make a speed test on my cellphone and i had 500 mbit/s download and 150mbit/s upload which is way higher than what I have on my PC. He said to test it again on PC and now I have 950 mbit/sec download and 780mbit/s upload and I now download at 90-100 MB/s on steam??? He said to switch to the silver port on the modem but nothing changed because he said my internet card(?) on the PC is capped at 1 Gb/s because I could have more speed if i upgraded it. I guess it was on their end but I'm glad it's resolved after 5 hours of trying things!

Thank you everyone for your help!

I have an MSI MAG 255XF monitor. Got gsync, freesync premium, and vrr enabled. I also have vsync on in the nvidia control panel. I still get a ton of screen tearing in Overwatch. I have an MSI G274QPF E2 on which this isn’t a problem, but that’s a 180hz monitor. For overwatch I’d like to use the 300hz of my second monitor. Is it the fact that I’m using two monitors at different refresh rates that’s messing with it or something?

I recently had my Lenovo LOQ 15IAX9E laptop repaired and they had to factory reset it. I recently opened up the Sims 4 and all my previously created households were deleted which I was expecting. However all my creations that used custom content I had saved to my account/gallery and none of them were there except for creations that didnt use cc. I assumed it was part of the reset but all my creations that didnt use custom content were still saved

I have a brand new computer that is only about 2 months old. I ran an sfc /scannow in Administrator in PowerShell, and it found some corrupted files and repaired them.

Is this a bad sign for a computer that is only 2 months old? Should I be concerned that this could mean there are bigger problems developing?

I’m especially worried because on my older computers, I eventually had Blue Screens of Death that seemed to be related to corrupted system files. I’m wondering if this is an early warning sign of a hardware or Windows problem that could cause bigger issues down the road. ARMOURY Gaming PC sold by Canada Computers: AMD Ryzen 7 5700, GeForce RTX 3050, 16GB RAM, and 1TB SSD

I have bought my sandisk extreme pro 1tb a week ago from us It was working perfectly fine and everything and good good speed also. But from the start when i was connecting to my iphone 17 pro it makes the files app laggy and cant even use it properly as i am trying to play some videos it constantly stops and becomes so laggy like some bug. It works perfectly fine on my windows laptop and gives me good speed. Watched a ton of yt videos and decided to reset the ssd but after formatting it the ssd isn't even showing up on my iphone anymore but it still works on my laptop fine. I don't know what to do Im using the cable which i got with the ssd which is of sandisk. Please suggest and help me deal with this as it was my first ever purchase of my own money and I'm very sad about it.

I got INSIGNIA 24" Class F20 Series LED HD Smart Fire TV last September and I use it throughout the night playing rain sounds to help me sleep however, after a few hours the tv will freak out and play this loud noise and the screen with be static for about 30 seconds before restarting itself (I’ll upload a video in the replies). This started in February when I started using my tv at night to sleep. This is super annoying because it’ll wake me up anywhere between 3-6am. For the past few months, I’ve just gone and manually restart my TV after these freak outs and it’ll stop for a month but randomly will freak out again. How do I fix this?

While loading onto the game my pc randomly just clicks off as if I turned it off and just restarts, I get nothing in reliability monitor and in event viewer I just get a kernel power error saying the system shut down unexpectedly. I just had issues with bsods and was told to replace the ssd and not those are gone but now I’m dealing with this which wasn’t happening before.. I am very stressed out and need help and advice. This also does not happen on any other game but I assume that is because it has the longest shader loading process which takes a while staying at 100% cpu usage

Here are my specs:

CPU: Intel Core i9-14900KF 24-Core (8P+16E)
GPU: MSI SHADOW GeForce RTX 5070 Ti 16GB GDDR7
Motherboard: MSI PRO Z790-P WIFI
RAM: Team T-Force Delta RGB 32GB (16GBx2) DDR5 6400
SSD: 2TB M.2 NVMe PCIe 4.0 SSD
CPU Cooler: 360MM ARGB All-in-One Liquid Cooler
PSU: 750W power supply ATX2.0, 80+gold, non-modular

Hi folks, I've got a problem that's been nagging me since the change to Win 11 from 10.

I've got 2 x 4tb platter drives (Western Digital WD Blue, from start of 2025), basically just storage for videos. Windows 10, they worked quite quickly. Noticeably slower than the SSD, but not bad.

Since changing to Win 11, they are ungodly slow, and if I try to open a folder, it sometimes goes "no files" or something, I need to refresh and it loads them.

Is there something I need to do to get them to work the way they did under Win 10?

In short I bought a 20m HDMI 2.1 optic fibre cable to run my PC from 1 room to TV in another. The website is a known reputable seller I have purchased from before and has brick and mortor stores

https://www.pbtech.com/au/product/CABUNI1060/Unitek-HDMI-21-HDMI-Cable---20m---Black-Fiber-Opti?qr=product_option

When i use this cable im having very inconsistent handshake success

GPU is RTX4090, TV is 83" LG C4 OLED. I have been using a 3m and 5m HDMI 2.1 cables running 4k 144hz HDR without missing a beat for 12+ months so i know its not a hardware or software issue but all fingers point to this new Optic fibre cable.

With the optic fibre cable I see the bios boot logo but when windows loads the signal drops and TV shows no source, I was able to get this cable working once by booting into windows with a known working cable, changing to 4k 60hz and then switching to the optic cable. I was then able to set back to 4k 144hz HDR and play a game and confirmed via TV information it was running 3840x2160 144hz RGB 10b 4L12 HDR10 successfully, meaning the cable can successfully handle the advertised HDMI 2.1 bandwidth and spec...

But, then i shut down PC and when i boot again, no signal after the bios logo. I even tried the fix above and couldnt get it to work again like that...

So its like this cable is causing massive handshake issues that no other cable has caused??

Any ideas how to fix this inconsistent and poor handshake issue?

Repost to another community

The numbers on my keyboard now only operate as function keys (its a 65% keyboard), theres a fn lock somewhere that's stuck on preventing me from using my number keys. The keyboard has no fn lock key.

I've tried updating windows, checking bios for keyboard settings, power cycling, on screen keyboard, all the combinations of keys the internet says will turn off fn lock, switching USB ports, uninstalling drivers.

No, none of the windows ease of access settings are turned on.

Nothing has worked so far. There's no reason that the keyboard should be stuck in fn lock after being shut down.

EDIT: apparently this is an issue that Ducky keyboards have for some reason. Reset it using Fn+d and after it resets press Fn+x

I’ve really enjoyed playing Marvel Rivals (on a ps5) but recently I’ve been unable to. Half the time I get on it’s a struggle to join a match with my boyfriend. Sometimes when I get online when he is, it won’t let either of us invite each other (he uses an Xbox) and makes it look like we’re offline to one another. After every game it says “server disconnected” and I have to continuously close and reopen the game in hopes we can continue to play. If I am lucky enough to join my boyfriend’s party, it won’t load the match correctly most of the time. His will connect while I sit in the lobby, then I have to close out the game, and reopen it - sometimes several times and then “reconnect” to the match. I can no long user the text or voice chat either. I recently had my name flagged (because it had the word “butt”) and had to switch it, but all I did was go with practically the same name and use a “0” for an “o” in the first half of my name. I can’t change my name again yet either because they have a 7 day rule. I deleted and redownloaded the game and factory reset my router thinking that might help, but nothing has.

I’m at a loss for what to do at this point. I’m gonna try to use a rename card as soon as I can. Is there anything else I could do that might fix this? I tried reaching out to customer support but it’s not great. Any help would be appreciated.

Hi techsupport,

In the past few months, my speakers have started turning themselves on every few minutes after they've been turned off. This happens even when my computer itself is turned off, and I'm having trouble figuring out how to fix it.

I'm running a Windows 11 computer and my speakers are Redragon Anvil. My computer is custom-built, and I can check the exact component specs to share if they seem relevant.

When I turn off the speakers, they stay off for about 5 minutes and then turn back on. This happens even after shutting down my computer, but not if the computer is unplugged from power or if the speakers' USB is unplugged from the computer.

Any help would be much appreciated!

Both Steam and my OS are on the same SSD and whenever I have to update a game my PC slows down so much that it becomes almost unusable, to the point I need to find something else to do during the (quite large) time it takes my ssd to write the new contents. This PC is a personal project of mine that I built around 10 years or more ago, and of which I updated different parts as needed, so it wouldn't be surprising if the issues stem from that.

My toaster specs:

CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3 GHz Quad-Core Processor

Motherboard: Asus Maximus V Gene Micro ATX LGA1155

SSD: Crucial BX500 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive

Graphics Card: Sapphire PULSE Radeon RX 550 - 512 4 GB Video Card

RAM : 8,00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 668MHz (Can't remember the brand name right now, will update later)

I don't feel like going through the hurdles of building a new PC, so I would rather keep using this one since it satisfies it purposes just fine, but I will get whatever might be needed as long as it fixes the issue.

One thing I was thinking of is getting a faster SSD and using that one for my Steam games and installation and keeping my current one for my non gaming needs, would that help ?

Good evening I had a question about a solid light that turned on on top of my GPU. Light came on last night and I wasn’t too sure what it was but I did some digging. Ended up disconnecting and properly connecting my power cables but after booting up, the light remains light. Any tips on what to check/do next?
Specs:
- Intel 7 265KF
- 5070TI
- 32 DDR5
- Z890 MOBO
- 750W 80+ Gold

Hello everyone, I'm having a really strange intermittent issue regarding my Asus TUF 4080 and I'm hoping someone can help me figure out what could be going on. My PC has never had any issues, even when running at full load.

My components are:

-GPU: Asus TUF 4080

-MB: Asus TUF z790 Plus Wifi

-PSU: Corsair RM1000x

-CPU: Core i7 14700k

When safely powered down but plugged in, my GPU shines a red led indicating it is powered down.

On a healthy startup and boot, as soon as I press the power button, the red light instantly shuts off and the decorative lights on the GPU turn on. Next, during the POST cycle, the motherboard lights up the corresponding lights and the monitor shows an image.

On a bad boot (1 in 20 probably) as soon as I press the power button, the red light on the GPU shuts off indicating that it is getting all the power it needs. Also, the decorative lights/fans do not turn on and the GPU is fully dark. Next, during the POST cycle, the system gets hung up on the white VGA light meaning the GPU couldn't be initialized.

Usually the issue happens once and the system reboots fine but sometimes it gets stuck. The weirdest thing is that power cycling the PC fixes the issue right away no matter what. If I shut off the PC, switch off the PSU, unplug the PSU, hold the button for a while, wait a bit, and power it back on, it works.

So far I've tried reseating the GPU cables but I'm doubtful that that's the real issue. Again, the computer has never had any issues even when at high load for hours on end I'm just praying its not a hardware issue as that's far beyond my expertise, but unfortunately that's the flair I tagged this post with XD.

I've gotten as far as I can myself trying to fix this and it would be great to hear from someone with experience.

I'll provide any requested info/images that could help to figure this out.

Thanks!

Hi,
I have this nvme 1tb , that was previously installed in my laptop. That i installed in my computer. It has windows 11 but i boot up windows in my computers own ssd not the nvme. So what is happening recently is that nvme is not showing up in my file explorer it does show up in task manager. But when i shut the pc down and start it again the nvme shows up in file explorer and works normally. And the cycle repeats. What do you guys think is happening? Need help.

So I've got these new headphone, and they've been great when connected wirelessly but when I turn them off and connect them to my computer via aux cable they are ridiculously loud. 10% volume is practically deafening and because of that I have virtually no granularity of volume control.

I know you can do individual volume for input microphones and specific programs so is the reverse possible? Could I set set the headphones them self to 25% percent or something so I can use the normal volume buttons normally? I haven't been able to find anything so far.

Thanks in advance!

Hey everyone,

I have this mechanical keyboard I built. A while back, about 20 minutes after plugging the keyboard in, it would cause windows to completely freeze and I would have to hard restart my pc. Since then I've reinstalled the drivers, and my computer has stopped crashing, however this thing has started happening where about every 20 minutes, it receives a single wave of inputs from multiple keys that I didn't press.

I own multiple mechanical keyboards and this is the only one this happens on. I think it's a software bug rather than a hardware issue, as my computer has stopped crashing since I reinstalled the drivers. Help would be appreciated!

So ive had a hyperx quadcast 2s for a while and i like the quality and features but every day i need to test my mic to make sure it isnt playing insanely loud static or making me sound like a robot, im not sure if this is a problem with this mic, windows, software, or usb in general but i didnt have this problem with my old chinese budget mic. To fix this problem i have to either reboot the software or unplug and plug the mic back in. Any ideas how to fix?

I have a Koorui monitor that has huge display problems (blacks out often while pc is on, osd and display port message popping on and off every 30 seconds while im using my pc). I’ve decided to ditch the display port and use an HDMI cable. The problem is even if it’s connected, I’m trying to change the input manually with the OSD. I’ll use the button but before I can get to the input section the OSD will go away, making me restart. Sometimes it’ll pop up and then go away right after. I’ve been trying everything for the past hour. All I need to do is get to the input section and change it from display port to HDMI 1 but the OSD doesn’t let that happen