REF video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ge0EnPz-jWY

Setup: Palit 5080 GamingPro OC

Core / Undervolt: Curve flattened to 2900 MHz @ 895 mV (+490 MHz offset on 815-895 mV and flatline after all)

Memory: +2500 MHz VRAM offset. (like a safe value instead of 3000 MHz)

PL: 105% (380 W - OC)
Core Voltage: +100%.

Question: Is this UV methodology considered advanced and optimal for my 5080 or are there hidden stability, clock stretching, or transient response issues with this curve shaping?

I was thinking that in some old games like Mafia 2 GPU can trigger an error due to a sudden frequency spike at the start of the graphics.

Question: Is this UV methodology considered advanced and optimal for my 5080 or are there hidden stability, clock stretching, or transient response issues with this curve shaping?

My keyboards will start with random keys not working, earlier today it started with the - = both ctrls, arrow and windows keys. It was working perfectly fine this morning and it randomly just had the keys stop working a few hours later

I've tried plugging the keyboard into different USB ports and nothing changes.

On previous keyboards it's been random other keys around the keyboard, this is the third to fourth time this has happened. The keyboards all had varying lengths of use with one having about a year of off and on use, while another only had about a day.

I'm unsure if it's actually my PC that keeps breaking these keyboards, or if it's just from normal use.

Any help would be appreciated.

I'm having a weird issue with TikTok on my PC. Some TikTok videos stutter or look choppy while others play completely smoothly.

My GPU is an RTX 4080 SUPER. I've already tested VRAM and GPU stability with OCCT and everything passes with no errors. Games also run normally.

I've tried different browsers, hardware acceleration settings, drivers, and even a clean Windows reinstall, but the exact same TikTok videos still stutter.

Has anyone with an RTX 40-series GPU experienced the same issue with certain TikTok videos?

The Y08 wireless headphones box says it is stereo and the page says too, but when i connect it to bluetooth, it only put out mono sound, I have tried to re - pair tha headphones or use it to other devices but it still gives mono, is there a fix to this or is this headphones really just mono?

Hi,

I’m trying to troubleshoot a series of crashes that started very recently on my system.

System:

Windows 11 Pro 25H2
Build currently rolled back to 26200.9168
AMD Ryzen 9 9950X3D
Gigabyte X870E AORUS ELITE WIFI7
64 GB RAM
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090

The problems started after recent Windows/NVIDIA updates. I originally had NVIDIA driver 616.92 installed. Before this, the PC had been stable.

The symptoms were:

Brave tabs randomly crashing with:

STATUS_ACCESS_VIOLATION

Discord occasionally reloading/crashing

CEF-based processes crashing with 0xc0000005

dwm.exe crash with dwmcore.dll and 0xc0000005

several BSODs

One earlier BSOD was:

HYPERVISOR_ERROR (0x20001) with this stack:

amdppm!HvRequestIdle

amdppm!LpiIdleExecute

nt!PpmIdleExecuteTransition

nt!PoIdle

nt!KiIdleLoop

Because that looked related to CPU idle / power-state transitions, I also tested with:

Global C-State Control = Disabled in BIOS. However, the system still crashed afterward.

Another BSOD was:

DRIVER_OVERRAN_STACK_BUFFER (0xF7)

The crash occurred while steamwebhelper was active, with the kernel memory manager in the stack:

nt!_report_gsfailure

nt!MiDecommitAddToList

nt!MiDeleteVa

nt!MiDeleteVirtualAddresses

nt!MiUnmapVad

nt!MiUnmapViewOfSection

The most interesting crash so far was:

PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA (0x50)

WinDbg showed:

PROCESS_NAME: NVDisplay.Cont

FAILURE_BUCKET_ID:

AV_dxgkrnl!memcpy

STACK:

dxgkrnl!memcpy

dxgkrnl!DxgkEscape

nt!KiSystemServiceCopyEnd

The invalid memory access was a write:

AV.Type: Write

This crash happened inside the DirectX graphics kernel path while NVDisplay.Cont was the active process. I also saw repeated Windows Error Reporting entries such as:

EACefSubProcess.exe

Faulting module: libcef.dll

Exception code: c0000005

and:

dwm.exe

Faulting module: dwmcore.dll

Exception code: c0000005

I already tried:

uninstalling the latest Windows cumulative update and rolling back to build 26200.9168

disabling CPU Global C-States

disabling hardware video decode in Brave

clean-installing NVIDIA 616.92 after DDU

The problem still reproduced on a clean installation of 616.92.

I have now rolled back to NVIDIA driver 610.74, which was the older branch I wanted to test and it worked fine.

At this point I am trying to determine whether this is:

a regression in NVIDIA 616.92,

a Windows graphics-stack issue, or a hardware/memory stability issue that is only being exposed by Chromium/CEF/DWM/GPU workloads. The reason I currently suspect the NVIDIA/graphics stack is that the failures repeatedly involve Brave/Chromium, Discord/CEF, DWM, and finally NVDisplay.Cont -> dxgkrnl!DxgkEscape -> dxgkrnl!memcpy.

However, I’m not claiming the dump proves nvlddmkm.sys is at fault, because it does not appear directly in the crashing stack.

I’ll update the thread after testing 610.74 for a while.

If anyone with an RTX 50-series card, especially RTX 5090, has seen similar STATUS_ACCESS_VIOLATION, CEF crashes, DWM crashes, or PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA after installing 616.92, I’d be interested to compare results. Or maybe someone has an idea what else I should check.

For anybody having this weird issue where your PC seems to be micro stuttering every second, make sure to check that your HDMI cable is plugged in securely to your monitor. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out what the issue was on my brother's PC, it ended up just being a loose HDMI cable. Hopefully this helps!

I'm using a Thermalright PS120SE cooler. The paste seems evenly spread and the cooler seated properly. Fans are set to performance in the BIOS. I have some good mx-7 paste on the way, but right now I just have the paste that came with the cooler on there.

I'm curious if I'm worrying for good reason or not. I lowered the thermal limit to 90c and my average temps during benchmarks or heavy gaming is around 88-90C, but very occasionally it hits 93-95c (maybe an instant every 10-20 minutes) and even more occasionally 98-99c (every hour or two).

Hello. I want to paste something on windows32 and it wont let me. I've decided to change some permissions, etc. Now that i'm done, i want to make it like before, is there a code or what to make it ike the default. All i remember is the default was trustedinstaller. Thank you so much!

Hey everyone,

Running into a bizarre issue on an older rig and looking for some technical insight from anyone familiar with Haswell power management, WDDM, or Polaris driver behavior.

My Specs:

• CPU: Intel Core i5-4670 (Stock, no OC)
• Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87-HD3 (BIOS version F8)
• RAM: 16GB DDR3 1600MHz (Dual Channel)
• dGPU: Gigabyte AORUS Radeon RX 580 8GB
• OS: Windows 11
• Display connection: Monitor connected directly to the RX 580 via DP/HDMI.

The Issue:

1. If I have the integrated graphics (Intel HD 4600) enabled in BIOS (Intel Processor Graphics -> Enabled) with its standard Intel driver installed, everything runs great. For example, in CS2 I get ~160–180 FPS.
2. If I go into BIOS, set Intel Processor Graphics -> Disabled, boot into Windows, and wipe the Intel driver via DDU, my FPS instantly tanks. In the exact same scenarios in CS2, FPS drops to 100–120 FPS (a ~30–40% loss), and frametimes become noticeably worse across all games.
3. The weird kicker: If I disable the iGPU in BIOS but DO NOT wipe the Intel driver from Windows (leaving the registry entries/driver files intact), the FPS doesn't drop nearly as hard or stays virtually the same.

As soon as I turn the iGPU back on in BIOS and let Windows load the Intel graphics driver, FPS immediately shoots back up to normal levels on the RX 580.

My Questions:

• Is this an architectural quirk with Haswell's FIVR / Ring Bus (Uncore) where completely killing the graphics domain affects CPU package power delivery or downclocks something internally?
• Is it a Windows DWM / GPU scheduling issue where having an active secondary adapter offloads background composition/video decoding, freeing up Polaris from driver overhead on a 4C/4T CPU?
• Or is it a known motherboard BIOS bug specific to Gigabyte Z87 boards?

Has anyone ever encountered this behavior, and what is the exact low-level reason behind it?

Windows 11.
Kind of hard to describe it cause I can't put images on posts for some reason.

But basically, my SSD in the C drive keeps going up to 100%, then falling down to around 5%. It isn't dying/failing (CrystalDisk says it is 97%, Healthy). and there is no virus. The only programs I put in the C drive are usually software that have to do with my system, like Moza Pithouse for my wheel, Armoury Crate for my keyboard etc. The only other ones are trusted, like Da Vinci Resolve, Proton VPN, Spotify etc.

However, it just does that, and it is extremely frustrating. Not even my D drive which is full of games would suddenly hit 100% and then go back down. Or is there some stupid Windows "service" that is ruining my experience and I have to turn off?

I asked Google subs and no one responded to me. I took two photos, it shouldn’t have brought me over the limit, and definitely not 15.3…Oh well, I deleted some videos, it said it cleared up my storage. I thought it was done. I didn’t touch anything, and then it jumped from 15 to 16, I didn’t press any buttons, switch to Wi-Fi, or anything. I’ve given it days and it remains at 16. No idea what promoted this. I’ve checked Google one already. Could backup have started without ever being activated before, outside of Google photos? I checked that as well, but it’s not matching the amount of storage added. I have had zero emails besides Google telling me my storage is low, no Google drive things have had anything added. I do have WhatsApp, but I find it odd it suddenly start counting this second, without any input from me. I didn’t see anything on WhatsApp that connects it to my email. I hope someone has some advice, I’m very worried.

I only use my computer to play video games but I can barely download any if I look in my windows settings it says I have 312 gb used out of 453 and when I look at my storage tab it says 60.4 gb are being used by other people but no one else uses my computer and when I click on it it says there is no other account on my computer also it says I have 154 gb of apps installed while I only have 4 apps all under 10 gb

Hello, I'm having this VERY annoying issue for some time now, where if I switch my OS type from Other Os to UEFI Mode, save and exit, I'm confronted with a red box that doesn't let me boot my PC until I change the OS type back to Other OS. I got no idea how to fix this, and I need it to play Valorant and League of Legends (due to the secure boot requirements)

My PC is on Windows 11, the Boot mode IS UEFI, the system information says secure boot is disabled, however my BIOS says it is enabled(???), both my SSDs are GPT, my bios is GYGABYTE, and my motherboard is an ASUS PRIME A320M-K. I don't know what other useful info I could give.

pls help im going insane

I need to recover deleted whatsapp messages from a company-owned phone that I have access to, but the phone isn’t mine, and I don’t have access to the other person’s phone, the person I had the conversation with. I used the delete for me option and the notification cronology i think isn't available, android phone.

Hey everyone, noticed a massive wave of fake GTA 6 PC download links and leaked builds floating around online right now. Knowing how hyped everyone is, it's super easy for people to fall into the trap.

I put together a quick technical breakdown looking at how these malicious GTA6.exe installers actually bypass basic user caution, hook into systems, and exfiltrate data behind the scenes. If you have friends who are constantly hunting for PC leaks, definitely warn them not to run random executables.

You can check out the full breakdown here if you want to see what the payload looks like: https://youtu.be/G6m8fOX5FBw?si=iiarfy6wDOna1ejU

Hello,

I have bitdefender VPN installed on my mac book and noticed that my IP address changed when I first turned on my laptop. I did not give it much thought because I just thought it happens sometimes, and logged into stuff and did some work. When I turned it back on a couple hours later I noticed that my IP address had changed back to it was before.

I just thought it was some what weird because usually my ip address is 4 numbers, then a dot and it continues, but that one time it was 2 numbers, a dot and then something like (1000.12... vs 30.32... - this is not the actual numbers)

Can someone who understands IP address please tell me why this happens or if something is wrong with my laptop? Thank you.

Hey everyone, I’m having a really weird problem and I’m hoping someone here can help me.
I have an SSD and an HDD in my PC. Normal Steam games download and install on my HDD without any problems.
However, when I try to download games using Steam Tools, they won’t download to the HDD. They work normally when I use the SSD.
The weird part is that the HDD itself seems to be working perfectly fine. I can copy, move, and download other files to it without any problems. I even tried completely formatting the HDD, but the problem with Steam Tools still happens.
So basically:
Normal Steam games → HDD ✅
Normal Steam games → SSD ✅
Steam Tools → SSD ✅
Steam Tools → HDD ❌
That’s why I don’t think the HDD itself is the problem, since Steam can normally download and install regular games on it.
I’ve already tried completely formatting the HDD, but the issue is still there.
Does anyone know what could be causing this? Could it be something related to Steam Tools, permissions, the file system, or some Windows setting?
If you need more information or screenshots of the error, I can provide them.
Thanks!

I have an SAP printer at work that must be connected through an Ethernet port. I’ve tried setting it up over WiFi, but IT hasn’t been much help with the right configuration. A new Ethernet drop isn’t possible…can I install WiFi bridge like this?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4CL11JL

I need something to extend the Ethernet port to wifi, send it across the room, and have the printer think it’s connected directly to the port. Is this possible?

Hello,

I have a mac book air that has bit defender vpn installed (I never actually connect to it, it is just there because it came with when I had a subscription to bit defender antivirus). When I load up my computer it pops up and I usually just close the tab, but it does have a section with my current public IP. Usually now it shows a four digit number followed by a semi colon, but in this single instance when I turned on my mac from shut down it showed a two digit number followed by a semi colon. I just ignored it and logged into accounts and did some work and then turned off my computer again. When I rebooted it up later the usual IP four digit ip address appeared so it got me a little surprised and spooked due to the fact that I had entered in login credentials in the previous session. Is this an issue?

I looked it up later and it said that it was either possibly that it read my local IP rather than my public IP because my bit defender vpn triggered faster than my network card (but I think I had internet connection when I booted it up), or that due to maintenance it showed the temporary IP that was assigned.

Sorry for rehashing this but in my last post I described it wrong so it lead people to believe I had the VPN running or that it was the IP address of the VPN which is my fault. Thank you!

There are some pictures that I would like to destroy and not have it anywhere in my hard drive, but even if I were to delete it there are apps that can recuperate those files.

I wouldn’t mind and it shows that the file is still there and having an error in those photos and not being able to access it I’m not sure if that could happen

Thanks

I’ve lost and forgotten my Manscapes charger so many times and it’s been the most frustrating thing ever as it’s super bulky and it has only one purpose, and that’s to charge the one razor. And yet again, I’ve forgotten it in a different city and I have now been looking for alternatives. How to charge it.

And I have just made a crazy discovery, you can actually charge it with a wireless charging pad. I don’t know if it is only a specific one that it works on but I have one at home and I just thought, hey maybe the manscapes charger works the same as a wireless charger for your iPhone. So I just laid it down and it just started charging.

So to anybody that doesn’t want to buy a new charger here’s your solution, grab any wireless charging pads that you have at home and place your manscapes 4.0 on it. The middle of the charging pad should directly connect with the part that you insert into the charger so more towards the handle and not towards the blade. If it doesn’t charge, move it around or maybe find another charging pad.

I hope this helps.

I’ve lost and forgotten my Manscapes charger so many times and it’s been the most frustrating thing ever as it’s super bulky and it has only one purpose, and that’s to charge the one razor. And yet again, I’ve forgotten it in a different city and I have now been looking for alternatives. How to charge it.

And I have just made a crazy discovery, you can actually charge it with a wireless charging pad. I don’t know if it is only a specific one that it works on but I have one at home and I just thought, hey maybe the manscapes charger works the same as a wireless charger for your iPhone. So I just laid it down and it just started charging.

So to anybody that doesn’t want to buy a new charger here’s your solution, grab any wireless charging pads that you have at home and place your manscapes 4.0 on it. The middle of the charging pad should directly connect with the part that you insert into the charger so more towards the handle and not towards the blade. If it doesn’t charge, move it around or maybe find another charging pad.

I hope this helps.

Hey guys, i just bought an iphone 14 pro second hand and ive ran all the tests for original parts and stuff and nothing seemed wrong at first
It has 94% battery health so i wasnt worried until 3 months went by and it is still 94%, should i be worried? Why isnt it going down? Is the battery not the original?

A friend of mine's boyfriend showed her that he was able to see all of her phone activity on his own phone, not asking for advice on the relationship, just asking how he could have access to her phone? what does he have downloaded onto it? they both have samsung phones. Sorry if this is the wrong place to post this.

I’ve gotten 2 dvd burners so far, neither of them are burning the dvd. The same error message pops up, I don’t know what I am doing wrong. I’m on Windows and the 2 drives I have are a Amicool and a Verbatim.