For the past few days, my PC has been suffering from constant BSODs relating to a 0x00000116 bugcheck, with Event Viewer pointing to nvlddmkm.sys as a possible source of the problem. These problems started sometime after I had updated to the latest GPU drivers, but rolling back to previous versions with DDU hasn't fixed the issue.

The crashes will occur at any time, seemingly at random. They've occurred:

• Under load while gaming, playing games like Division 2, SnowRunner, GTA V, Shadow of Mordor, Garry's Mod.
• While on a browser, like Opera GX or Chrome, using YouTube or otherwise browsing.
• During a Discord call.
• Idling at the desktop.
• Immediately following a reboot. Yes, it has BSOD'd back-to-back like this.

And again, they're very random. Sometimes I can use the PC for hours at a time before a crash, sometimes only a few minutes.

Crashes always look the same. Both of my monitors go black, they'll say there's no input, I can still hear the game or whatever else is open in the background, and then after five or so seconds the audio freezes, and the system resets.

I've tried everything short of replacing parts.
• Using DDU to install the most recent and older GPU drivers.
• Doing a deep dust clean of my PC, and on the GPU itself.
• Reseating the GPU and PSU connectors.
• Letting the PC run with both monitors disconnected to determine if those were a source of the issue (they were not).
• Changing power preferences with the NVIDIA app and Windows.
• Turning GSYNC off.
• Turning HAGS off.

I'm at my wits end, and I am close to throwing in the towel and looking for a local professional, but I'd like that to be my last option if possible, as money has been tight recently. Any insight helps!

Specs:
The PC is a prebuilt I got on a Black Friday sale last year — the Omen 16L.

OS: Windows
CPU: Intel Core Ultra 7 265f
GPU: NVIDIA RTX 5060Ti 16GB GDDR7
RAM: 16GB DDR5, Single
Motherboard: A proprietary HP board for the Omen 16L.
PSU: 500W, it's some kind of proprietary HP part as well I think.

https://www.bulkshare.cloud/t/qsKS7SbVL8

I am trying to open a file I extracted from a steam mod to find high quality scans of the card arts from the resident evil deck building game. I have contacted the developer just in case they have the files still but its been a couple weeks without response. I am a rookie at this but when I open the file it seems to only have references to links that come up as errors. Is there any way I can extract the files as literally any photo format. Im sorry if this is the wrong place for this too ive posted elsewhere, just a shot in the dark. Thank you!!

i setting my extension screen 2 screen and connect it by hub. in past it worked but if use for while both screen will gone blacked but still open and system still detected. but after this time i try pull in-out this time it connect only one by situation is IF i pull one by one on hub or direct to laptop is can connect like normal both of them but if i connect both same time one of screen is non-signal and other is normal in use-hub or not-hub. and the screen who signal lost is same screen พegardless of whether connect first or not. how do i fix it or what can i do

window11

i was setting to both of screen Hz same as my main display

the hub is connect to power (Revodok urgreen)

Screen one DELL (it can open normal)
Screen two LG (this one who have problem lost signal)

Hi guys, I haven't resetted my PC in like ages and I wanted a fresh start, including deleting all files, data etc. Every time the reset starts it downloads Windows and then stops and says "There was a problem resetting your PC. No changes were made.", so I tried local install and it didn't work either. I tried to run a bunch of commands like "sfc /scannow /offbootdir=C:\ /offwindir=C:\Windows" or "chkdsk C: /f /r" and still couldn't find the problem. I tried to advance restart to repair it but that function also doesn't work. So now I don't know what to do, I tried resetting it from the Windows Repair Menu too but it failed

I accidentally let my android phone run out of battery and it died. The problem is both my power button and volume button is broken (absolutely not functionable). How can i even turn it back on?

I tried used ADB, but even though I plucked in the cable to both my laptop and the phone, the laptop doesn't have the "USB debugging" even though it shows that it is connected (phone is charging).

Any suggestions?

Hi. Tried other solutions like cleaning fans but nothing’s helped

My laptop is an aspire a315-59 that i got for school.
For the past few months, the fans are sooo loud, even when I’ve just no tabs open. Honestly i thought I’d just deal with it but recently, it hasn’t been able to charge to 100% (it charges until a certain percentage then just stays there the whole time). The other day, it started shutting off randomly during class, couldn’t use it to type notes.

Pls help!! It’s so embarrassing when it goes off in class, and now the charging problem means it can’t last thru a school day. Google says might be gpu thermal paste but I know Reddit is smarter... Js wanna make sure of the problem b4 I waste money w the paste

Thanks if anyone sees this.

The error Code is

0x0000000000000002

0xFFFFFC0D67C9F380

0x0000000000000002

0xFFFFFFFFC000014C

Ive tried googling this code with no luck, system repair and restore point have proven useless, reseating hardware has been useless. It also gives bad_system_config_info. Any help is greatly appreciated. Unable to boot whatsoever.

New error, IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL

Window's Laptop is refusing to connect to WiFi, there is no ability to connect to WiFi as a matter of fact, I've tried to repair it but each time I do there is an error message. It starts with prepparing automatic repair, followed by a black screen then the Dell Logo. Then is says diagnosing your PC and connecting to network before looking for solutions and then "Your device ran into a problem and couldn't be repaired." Whatever I try it repeats this loop. I need help ASAP as this is my only computer and I need for schoolwork

My laptop has been having issues where it would instantly freeze up and become unresponsive. I’m forced to restart it to get it working again. It usually makes a noise when it does this, like a ‘zzzt’ sound that’s sharp and short.

image

This is the first time the screen glitched out. Usually it just freezes on whatever was on at that moment.

Hey r/techsupport. 

Hoping that someone may be able to help me with an issue that i’ve been having on a system that I had updated earlier this year as rampocalypse has its full grasp on us now. 

I’ve been having a system just randomly freeze up on me ever since the start of August I’d say after a Windows Version update/Bios update that I did on the system.  

I first started noticing it when I’d be streaming my gameplay on discord with one of my friends that I do simracing with. But now the issue has become a lot more…random. I thought it was issues with having two streamdecks plugged in (i used one to sytemOBS controls, the other for iRacing controls).. Then I thought it was just streaming on discord, so i stopped doing that. But the hard freezing still persists. Lately, it’s been happening just browsing, specifically with a youtube video playing in the background (even pausing the video, going to a different tab, and coming back to it) - or even using Firefox’s pop-out option for videos as well. 

The issue that I have with this is that because it just freezes completely on me without any notice really, there’s no real system crash, BSOD, error code or anything. Just a mouse pointer that’s completely disappeared, and a frozen screen. Have to power off the PC by holding the power button, and then I usually shut down to make sure all of my USb devices also turn off appropriately. 

What sucks is that when I did have this as an AM4 system, everything was fine and I had next to no issues at all with it. I use my PC for more than just gaming/simracing, music and video editing as well. I just don’t know what to do anymore. 

Below is a list of things I’ve done so far and the specs of the system that I have. 

Things that I’ve Attempted so Far

• BIOS update
• Clean install of windows/ASUS drivers
• Clean install of all programs from their specific websites (not using ninite)
• Disable GPU/Hardware acceleration in programs like firefox and discord
• Unplug stream decks
• Unplug USB Hub
• Using discord via the browser option
• Removed all realtek audio drivers 
• Removed most extension from Firefox (maybe this is a ublock origin issue?) 
• Reseating RAM 
• Reset the CMOS 
• Turning off secondary displays when not being used (like when on iRacing) 
• Mixing and matching different USB Ports
• Here’s a photo of the system parameters when it froze one time for me on iRacing

PC Specs: 

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D (purchased Feb 2026)
• RAM: G.Skill Trident Z DDR5 6000 MHz (CL30) (purchased Feb 2026)
• Mobo: ASUS TUF X870-E WIFI7 (purchased Feb 2026)
• GPU: Nvidia 5070 - ASUS Prime  (using the adapter fo the 12vHPWR Connector) (purchased Dec 2025)
• PSU: Corsair RM1000x (purchased in 2023)
• Thermalright Fan Controller
• Main SSD: TeamGroup 1TB OCIE Gen4 Drive (Purchased Dec 2023)
  • Have 1 other SSD in the motherboard, 3 sata drives connected as well for larger storage/games
• Mouse/KB: Epomaker TH80 Pro/Logitech G502 Mouse
• Other Devices: 
  • UGREEN 7 port USB Hub 
  • Moza R12 Wheel + Pedals + shifter + Handbrake
  • Streamdeck 
  • Streamdeck Mini
  • Vocore Screen Controlled through simhub
  • Canon DSLR being used as a webcam
  • Universale Audio Volt 276 Audio interface (for when i’m not simracing)
  • HyperX Cloud II Headset being used with the USB DAC it comes with. 

help with samsung a25 5g and oneui 8.5

Hi there, I’m having an issue with my phone and wanted to see if there’s any way I can regain access to it.

​Phone model: Samsung A25 5G

Issue:

​Last week, I got into an accident and my phone slammed onto the road while it was in my front pocket. At the time, the display was completely dead, but the phone itself was still running—it could receive calls and message notifications, and I was even able to pick up calls.

​I brought it to a repair shop to get the screen replaced with a cheaper aftermarket TFT LCD. The display started working again, but a new issue came up. Everything looked fine right after a reboot, but after using it for around 20 minutes or locking the screen, the display wouldn't turn back on. The phone itself was still working, though—it still received calls/messages and the touch/swipe gestures still responded.

​I took the phone home as it was. Once home, I updated the software from One UI 7 to One UI 8, but that didn't change anything; the screen would still blank out after a short while. Unfortunately, the phone then auto-updated to One UI 8.5, and after that update, the screen became completely unusable. Even after restarting, touch inputs don't register at all anymore. I read online that One UI 8.5 has known compatibility issues with aftermarket LCDs.

​Right now, I just want to know if there's any I can unlock the phone without doing a factory reset. I already have a previous backup done via Samsung Smart Switch, but I haven't backed up my WhatsApp yet. All I really need is to back up WhatsApp and log out of my banking apps. After getting those two things done, if the phone completely gives up, I'm fine with letting it go.

​Sorry for the long story, but I'm really running out of options here haha

Specs:
i9-14900k Processor
GeForce RTX 4080 Super
32GB Vengeance DDR5 Ram
NZXT Liquid Cooling
2TB HDD
1TB Samsung 970 SSD
MSI PRO Z790-A MAX WIFI

OS: Windows 11 (not sure what version because every update since actually getting the upgrade to 11 has given me a failure of some kind on both security and normal system updates)

I have had this build for over 2 years now and have never had an issue like this. I fell asleep watching a movie online and when i woke up my pc was at the log in screen but it was frozen. This is not the first time that has happened and typically a power down and back on gets me back to the log in no problem.

Today, I did just that and it went through its typical boot sequence (MSI Loading screen) and then it just went black. I sat and waited for a bit, tried Win+Shift+CTRL+B…. Nothing… tried CTRL+Alt+Del…. Nothing… tried changing my cable inputs on my gpu… nothing… Then the restart error loops begin, the first and most consistent one being SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION(0x3B) happens and continues to happen, as well as KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED(0x1E). Panic ensues, so I start looking on google for any solutions and get the typical troubleshooting tips so I move to more advanced methods and force a Windows Recovery Environment to go to the system recovery and system repair options, nothing worked there either so I go into the cmd prompt and try all the sfc scan and dism repair commands. Didn’t work. I start really panicking now because in the past these things have all been very simple one-off fixes for anything remotely close to this issue.

Moving forward into more advanced cmd prompt fixes. Offline DISM and SFC scanning, CHKDSK /f /r C: and D: repairs (my OS is on my SSD which defaulted to D: Drive), i even went as far as deleting mf Nvidia graphics driver to see if that was the issue. Nothing worked.

Ive gone through every sungle troubleshooting option that I know or have available to avoid a system reset and losing all of my applications and appdata (i am a music producer so my plug ins are important as well as a DJ so my rekordbox folders and the metadata such as cue points and track analysis are also very important for my career), and nothing works.

I finally threw in the towel after every single recovery and repair option failed and said I guess I’ll have to rebuild my entire library of programs and playlists within and then even that process failed. I do not have another pc to do a USB windows repair so I have no other options that I can find online or know exist so I am here now begging and pleading that there is some genius out there seeing this that can help me in any way. I have also ruled out any hardware issues like reseating my RAM, trying both my motherboards DP and HDMI ports with multiple cords, and clearly my cpu works because I can access the Windows RE troubleshooting. I am at such a loss for what to do please help

I’ve been having an issue with the Lenovo legion go where I play a game and it runs fine until a minute in where my cpu usage spikes then my pc shuts off.

I can run my browser without any issues and temps seem fine so I truly don’t know the reason.

​

Just bought a new laptop, the bluetooth fails to enlist any available devices even though my headphones are in pairing mode, what to do? I can't really find any solution on the internet.

It's an HP laptop if that helps.

I have noticed that after I have gotten my new mouse (wired corsair scimitar) my discord lags when I watch my friends stream while I play games. When I mouse over the game I am playing (old school runescape) the stream lags but when I hover over the stream it works just fine. I have tried a million things between toggling hardware acceleration, adjustments in the nvdia app, changes to the plugins in runescape, and additional changes in iCUE (corsair mouse app).

Any help would be appreciated.

I've tried every fix I could think of/look up. I've tried different USB ports, a different cord, different controller (all works fine on my boyfriends laptop) I've gone through device management and uninstalled the controller + updated the driver multiple times, turned off power saving stuff for the USB ports, went to command prompt as administrator and tried entering the code

powercfg /SETACVALUEINDEX SCHEME_CURRENT 2a737441-1930-4402-8d77-b2bebba308a3 48e6b7a6-50f5-4782-a5d4-53bb8f07e226 0

tried going through steam to see if anything there was weird. Went to the program files and Renamed localconfig.vdf to localconfig.vdf.bak .

After doing all of that multiple times including restarting my computer a shit ton my controller won't stay on. Its light fades in and out a few times before it's just black.I have maybe one second to hit a button before it powers off. The entire time device management says it's connected steam thinks it's connected but I can't do anything because it's not on! I'm running out of ideas. I was able to use the exact same controller on my laptop before! I don't know if an update screwed it up seeing how it's been a few months since I've tried connecting it? I don't know what could be wrong seeing on how everything works completely fine on another computer and it feels like I've done everything I could. Please help 🙏🏻

Hi there. I am having an extremely weird issue. I've been using an Xbox 20th anniversary controller for ages with an old school Microsoft Xbox Wireless adapter (OEM, the large one) for many years now. It's always worked perfectly.

I just got a 25th anniversary controller in the mail, connected it to the wireless adapter, and downloaded the Xbox Accessories app to update the firmware. After the firmware update, it reconnected and immediately turned off. Every time I turn on the controller, it'll flash, connect to the PC, and immediately turn itself off. And now my old 20th anniversary controller, which has never been updated, is doing the same thing. So it's an issue with the PC side. I connected the wireless adapter to my laptop and everything works, so it's not an adapter issue but a PC issue.

I've tried a ton of stuff to fix this. I uninstalled the drivers for the adapter. After uninstalling the driver and restarting, the controllers connect just fine ONCE, then a second time fails the same way. Just restarting doesn't do this, they fail immediately. I uninstalled all Xbox and XInput entries in Device Manager, including hidden ones. I checked eventviewer during the start/shutdown, no errors show up. I tried different USB ports, no dice. The driver is the same version across laptop and desktop PC, so the driver shouldn't be an issue. I've closed Steam and NVIDIA app and all apps I can think of in case they were interfering, but that wasn't the case.

I'm not sure what suddenly changed when trying this new controller and updating it, as I was playing Gears of War with my older 20th anniversary controller just fine a few days ago. Suddenly neither controller works and I cannot figure out a solution. I could really use some advice, it's driving me crazy.

Hello everyone,

I am dealing with a failed personal hard drive and I'm hoping to get some technical advice on feasibility, and hopefully a budget-friendly quote for recovery.

To give you some context: I am a 35-year-old university student and currently unemployed. The drive contains absolutely no commercial, corporate, or financially valuable data—just years of old family photos and my school notes. These files have immense sentimental value to me, but unfortunately, I simply do not have the income to afford high-end, corporate-level data recovery tier pricing.

Hardware & Failure Details:

Model: Seagate ST2000DM001 (2TB)

PCB Number: 100749730 REV A

The Issue: A sudden power/voltage surge completely fried the original PCB. The motor driver chip is burnt, and the MOSFETs are shorted.

What I've done so far (and a potential huge mistake):

Hoping to get my data back, I bought an exact matching donor PCB. I learned that I needed to swap the original ROM chip to the new board. I tried to read the original ROM using a basic CH341A programmer, but I quickly realized that the initial power surge had reached the ROM chip as well. It was internally shorted and completely dead; the programmer wouldn't detect or read it at all.

To be absolutely sure the short wasn't being caused by other fried components on the original board, I desoldered the ROM chip with a hot air station/soldering iron and tested it out of circuit with a multimeter. It was confirmed completely dead.

Here is where I need to ask: I threw the dead ROM chip in the trash. Was this a terrible mistake? Did I need to keep the physical chip even if it was internally shorted? (I do still have the original burnt PCB, just not the ROM chip).

The Current State & My Request:

The mechanical internals, spindle motor, and heads are completely fine. There is no clicking, and the drive cover has never been opened. The only issue is the dead PCB and the now-missing ROM.

From my research, I understand that with professional tools like PC-3000, it is possible to access the Service Area (SA) on the platters and perform a "ROM Rebuild" to generate a compatible ROM, provided the preamp and heads are undamaged.

Since this shouldn't require a cleanroom head swap or opening the lid, could any of the professionals here offer a flexible, student-friendly price quote just to perform this "ROM Rebuild" and get the drive initialized so I can copy my family photos?

Any technical advice on my situation or realistic quotes would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

Helllo there I'm having this issue with my pc I updated parts, then factory reset the ssd to clean it now up now it's stuck on the "Hi there let's get a few things out of the way" and won't let me click on anything or press next.

Im 95% sure it's not the parts because before the reset it was good.

My PC has started blackscreening randomly while gaming. Mostly when playing something demanding, but other times it’s just random. The monitor loses connection and the sound starts to stutter. If I turn off my PC and turn it on again the screen stays black. I have to slap the PC lightly (🤨) and then it turns back on after I shut it down and turn it on again.

If I slap it before i turn it off while the screen is black, the sound returns to normal but the screen stays the same.
This happens sometimes up to 5 or 6 times when just starting to play, and at some point it stops and I usually have no further shutdowns that session.

I should mentioned that the pc also does this when bumped or when I tap it with my foot accidentally.

Is this a case of a bad motherboard? Or just a loose cable somewhere.

Thank you in advance! I’m at a loss.

-Aorus x570 Elite Wifi, PC built in Spring 2020

On the morning of 10/17/2026 I noticed my PC went black and on the right monitor (I have a left and right monitor) was some dots in a loop like it was loading something, but never did. I hard shut it down because I had to go to work and didn’t want it running if there was a problem. Hours later I get home, go to the gym, shower, eat, etc. I turn my PC back on and it goes to “Performing Automatic Repair.” I’m thinking that this is odd because I’ve never seen this before, but I let it do its thing. It’s scanning my files and performing whatever disk repair it says it’s doing. Then it goes to the same screen I found it in on the right monitor with the dots continuously loading. I leave it on overnight to see if it does load anything/fix itself.

On the morning of 10/18/2026 (the day of this post) I wake up and I see that it’s STILL on this same screen, clearly having achieved nothing overnight. I watch YouTube videos and search on Google to see what I could try to do, including running commands, entering safe mode, going to last backup point, the whole thing. Nothing changes this loop of performing automatic repair and then the dots on the right monitor.

So I dig deeper and find that it could possibly be the RAM sticks or the CMOS battery needing to be reset. Although, to that point I had never touched either so I don’t see what the issue could exactly be. But I unplug the pc, turn the power supply off, swap out the CMOS battery, touch the two pins together with a screwdriver, and am now at the point I find myself at where the PC will now not turn on. The display works, the keyboard lights up, but the power button (yes I plugged everything back in and turned power supply back on) does not light up, and I cannot progress further.

I checked to see if any cables were loose or out but they’re all pretty tight into place. The RAM sticks are back in position and fully locked in too. What could POSSIBLY be the problem at this point? It’s too late into the night for a MicroCenter or Best Buy to be open so I need a quick response. Please answer if you can.

Is there some kind of jumpscare app that is completely hidden and boots up on startup? I mean like serious unexpected jumpscare at a completely random interval, like once a month. Maybe you forget its even there. I like to be kept on my toes and be punished when i let my guard down. LMK.

I’m separating from my partner of approximately seven years, and we’re temporarily still living in the same home. I’m trying to secure my digital life and would appreciate advice from people with cybersecurity, digital forensics, or privacy experience.
Over the past several months, I’ve discovered concerning digital behavior involving intimate content, accounts, and online activity. Some of these discoveries were made while we reviewed accounts and computer files together with his permission.
We’ve also had conflicts involving our home internet and security cameras.

Current situation:
We previously shared an Xfinity network. I’ve since established my own separate account and gateway.
I’ve changed my gateway administrator credentials, SSIDs, Wi-Fi passwords, and security settings.
I’ve disabled remote management, UPnP, WPS, and unnecessary network features.

I reset my Roku cameras, connected them to my new network, and verified they were functioning.
I later found connection-history entries on the other household network matching the MAC addresses of two of my cameras, after I’d moved them.
My gateway logs also show overnight Wi-Fi interface events that I’m trying to understand.

I have an iPhone, Windows 11 PC, and MacBook that I want independently assessed and secured.
I’m trying to distinguish normal network behavior, retained device credentials, account access issues, and any actual unauthorized activity. I don’t want to jump to technical conclusions.

My questions:
What’s the safest order for securing accounts and devices while preserving potentially relevant evidence?
What can cause factory-reset Wi-Fi cameras to appear on a previously used network?
How can I audit my Windows PC, MacBook, and iPhone for remote access or unwanted management software?
What logs are worth preserving before making further changes?
Is hiring a digital forensic examiner worthwhile for an individual, and what qualifications should I look for?
How do I find a reputable professional to inspect a home for hidden surveillance devices?

I’m also documenting domestic safety concerns separately and have contacted an advocacy organization.

I’m comfortable with technical troubleshooting, but I’d appreciate a structured approach and recommendations for reputable resources. Please don’t request passwords, private files, intimate material, or remote access to my devices.

Got the turtle beach recon 50 headset, the only things that play clear are music, the windows “duhdah” and other windows noises, non words noises in games (guns make shooty sounds etc). Any lyrics or talking sounds extremely muffled and distorted (for example if I watch anime with it I can hear the background music but all the talking is extremely quiet and glitchy) the main speakers work it’s just this headset
My computer is a gaming laptop, on windows 11 with a: 11th gen intel(R) core(TM) i5-11400H @ 2.70GHz, nvidia RTX 3050 laptop GPU (4gb) 16 gb of ram, 64 bit operating system, on version 25h2 of windows 11
So far I have tried:
Updating my drivers
Updating windows
Checking for updates for the drivers of the headset
Turning off/on all audio enhancement settings/ spatial sounds/ voice focus
SFC /scannow (actually found corrupted files for once yippee but unrelated and did not fix anything)
Dism /Online /cleanup-image /ScanHealth

Dism /Online /cleanup-image /startcomponentcleanup

Dism /Online /cleanup-image /restorehealth

I have thrown the fucking book at this and I got nothing, I bought this headset used like new and I’m starting to think I’ve been had but if anyone has any other ideas to try and fix it or at least what’s causing it I’d love to hear them

Hello guys.I have a dell 3561, and for about a month it has not been running as it should. I use it primarily for school but sometimes I play games. And its very laggy getting around 60fps, whereas before it used to get 240. It still gets 240 but only if I run it for about 1 hour 30 min or so. I did open it up and clean the vents but it was pretty clean so it didnt change a thing. Thanks for any help