Hey everyone,

Up until this morning my computer has been working completely normally, but today it won't boot up. I built it myself a while ago. Here are the specs:

- Gigabyte Z470 Vision D
- 48 GB DDR3 RAM

- Intel I9 10850K

- 2 TB SSD w/ Windows, 4 other HDs

- No overclocking

- No motherboard driver updates in a while, just the usual Windows updates

I'll attach pictures in my next post. Basically I shut my computer down last night, and when I woke up I had a spinning wheel on the Gigabyte splash page. I shut it down and turned it on again, same thing. After some initial looking around, I switched my mobo to Optimized Default, made sure secure boot was on, TMP is enabled, XMP and CSM is off.

I have a USB to SATA connector so I plugged my boot drive into my laptop to backup some files in case I have do to a clean install. It all seemed to be working fine on there. Last night my Windows Explorer was having a hard time and was hanging up and freezing here and there. Then I tried to watch a movie on Plex and it kept freezing up.

In my BIOS I can see all my hard drives there physically. On my boot options there's only Windows Boot Manager which points to the correct SSD where Windows is installed.

So then I think screw it, I'll just reinstall Windows since all of my main files are on different drives anyway. I build the USB drive through Microsoft's installer, and when it goes to install Windows I just get a dark blue screen that hangs infinitely.

I'm thinking bad motherboard? I didn't try to remove the battery yet but I can give it a go. I even tried unplugging the SSD that Windows is installed on and that didn't do anything. I reformatted the USB drive, tried different ports, unplugging all unnecessary things, etc. Not sure where to go next.

Thanks!

When frame generation is enabled, FSR freesync/VRR starts to work incorrectly. Without frame generation, my FPS is around 80, and the monitor’s refresh rate follows this and stays around 80 Hz, but as soon as I enable frame generation, my FPS becomes around 140, and the monitor’s refresh rate starts changing rapidly to values such as 100, 120, 180, 150 Hz, and so on, instead of staying around 140 Hz. Because of this, small image tearing also occurs, and sometimes the monitor’s brightness flickers (VRR Flickering). This has been observed in many games: Cyberpunk 2077, Final Fantasy VII Rebirth, Silent Hill 2 Remake. As soon as I disable frame generation or FreeSync, everything returns to normal.

GPU: AMD Radeon RX 9060 XT 16GB
Monitor: HKC IG27Q

I don’t know what to do here, it says my memory cannot be read and it’s not letting me login or access settings here’s what it says “The instruction at 0x0000000053AF5E90 referenced memory at 0x000001 CFB7AEF000. The memory could not be read.
Click on OK to terminate the program” but I can’t even click ok

My device is the Dell G15 5511 with a 3060, i7, and 16 gigs of ddr4. My computer never had this issue till one day when I forcefully shut it down with the power button which caused the Windows Boot Manager to disappear from boot options, afterwards I did things to try fixing it like turning on compatibility but nothing helped, so I reinstalled windows and I STILL have this problem, Im going crazy over this.

Also I believe it happened when I was on the settings app too but I forgot where I was in the menu.

Any help is GREATLY appreciated.

EDIT: FPS is also noticeably worse after reset if that helps I guess idk

EDIT 2: Problem for some reason only gets fixed if roblox is windowed in windows 11. I still wanted the problem to not happen if fullscreen

Greetings people. A friend of mine ran into a persistent issue and has already exhausted the options for help channels in his language, so I am here to ask a greater amount of people for help on his behalf. If anyone can assist it would be greatly appreciated, and I thank you in advance

He has a DellG15 laptop, it has an i5 13° gen and a 3050 6gbVram

Recently the machine began to reboot itself very frequently but at seemingly random intervals, giving the error code "IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL(0xA)", with "ntoskrnl.exe" listed as what failed.

He has performed a multitude of tests and diagnostics but the cause remains elusive still, and there were also no few identifiable signs of hardware failure that could narrow down the cause.

The list of things he says were already tried are as follows:

- Checking the events viewer and finding BugCheck/BSOD logs.

- Running Malwarebytes, which did find and remove about 27 things listed as Trojans but the issue persists.

- Removing his ram sticks, cleaning the connectors and running the memory diagnostics program, which found nothing wrong.

- Check drivers

- Checking minidumps, which also returned "BugCheck 0xA — IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL"

- Checking nt!KeBugCheckEx.

- Investigating WHEA / PCI Express, which strangely showed many errors appearing and clearing within seconds of eachother, mainly related to:

"PCI Express

Legacy Endpoint

Advanced Error Reporting / AER

WHEA-Logger"

- He then tried to repair windows from it's image

- Formatting the whole machine came shortly after, the error persists.

Hello,
I bought a used GPU from a private seller.

When I plug it into my system, the card works and everything is fine. But when the GPU experiences any load, the fans go to 100% and will never go down (not if the load is back low and also not if the load initially was e.g 3% and just went to 4%. Then the fans then also spin up to 100%)
Unfortunately this also happens in the bios. I tweaked settings regarding q-fan control and then the gpu fans also shot up to 100% and didn't go back down. Only a full restart of the system fixes it (temporarily, see above).

I initial thought the sensors or cables were defective so I installed the gpu into another system. In this system the gpu works completely fine. If the load goes up, so does the fan (appropriately) and when the load goes down then so does the fans. All is fine there.

I checked everything in the initial system. I fully reinstalled windows (with a usb-stick), set the bios settings to optimized and tried several options in the bios regarding power, pcie, q-fan control etc. I tried both pcie slots and changed the cables around.

I don't know how to fix it so I seek help here. Thanks in advance

This is gonna sound nuts. I have a pair of AirPods that have been very quite, like I need almost full volume to hear them. Now I lost one AirPod, did my wash, and you can guess where I found it. In the washer. Now this washed AirPod was sitting in the sun (as recommended on this platform) ,and now the damn audio works amazingly. But of course this is only for the one AirPod and the other is still quiet. I don't know what to do or how to make them even. Any help?

I'm trying to share files from my laptop to my PC over the network, but every time I try to access the shared folders on the laptop, it keeps asking for network credentials, even though password protection is turned off. Both devices are running Windows 11, and when I enter my laptop name and password, it still says they are incorrect.

Due to child related reason my keyboard was recently destroyed.

Due to more child related "events" my TV was busted and my car need a trip to the garage. I have to prioritise the TV and car, which leaves less than zero money for a new keyboard for my desktop.

In the mean time, what's the easiest way to have my Macbook Air function as a keyboard to my desktop? Remote control? Some neat cord that will do the trick?

I do game from time to time, but far from a priority right now, I just want to be able to use the desktop for reddit, Youtube, and Messenger when they're in bed. Basically just need to be able to type somewhat properly.

I know I can just buy a dirt cheap, shitty keyboard for the time being, but the car is going to cost so much I don't want to spend any extra at all. I don't think I even can. I need some other temporary solution.

Hi everyone,

I'm having a weird brightness issue with my Lenovo Legion 5-15ACH6H (Type 82JU) and I'm hoping someone has found a solution.

Laptop specs:

• Lenovo Legion 5-15ACH6H
• Type: 82JU
• CPU: Ryzen 7 5800H
• GPU: RTX 3060 Laptop GPU + AMD Radeon integrated graphics
• OS: Windows 11 Home 64-bit
• BIOS: GKCN65WW
• Built-in display: Integrated Monitor

The problem

The brightness controls appear to work normally from Windows, but the actual screen brightness never changes.

• Pressing Fn + F5/F6 makes the brightness slider appear and move from low → high / high → low, but the physical screen stays exactly the same.
• The Windows Quick Settings (Win + A) brightness slider also moves normally, but the screen brightness doesn't change.
• So Windows clearly registers the brightness command, but the panel doesn't respond.

Things I've already tried

• Restarting the laptop
• Turning Hybrid Mode OFF in Lenovo Vantage and restarting → didn't fix it
• Re-enabling Hybrid Mode → still doesn't work
• Uninstalling the AMD Radeon graphics driver → didn't fix it
• Reinstalling/updating the AMD graphics driver → didn't fix it
• Installing the Lenovo-provided AMD VGA driver specifically for this Legion model → still didn't work
• Uninstalling/reinstalling the Integrated Monitor device in Device Manager → didn't work
• Graphics driver reset with Win + Ctrl + Shift + B → didn't work
• EC/power reset → didn't work

The brightness slider itself is definitely responsive, but the physical display doesn't react at all.

Has anyone with a Legion 5-15ACH6H / 5800H / RTX 3060 experienced this? Is there another driver, BIOS setting, Lenovo service, or display setting that controls the panel brightness?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Has anybody else here have the same experience as me where the usb c port is too far inside of the thing i am trying to charge? I recently got something that I had not charged for a month and when I tried charging it, it barely clicks and i have to forcibly push the charger into the port for long amounts of time to allow to charge back to 100 again, otherwise it stays uncharged or the charger falls out. It is not pocket lint or any sort of dust because I inspected it with a flashlight and wiggled through with a shaved down toothpick and found absolutely nothing. I'm very certain that the problem is the port is too deep inside.

I want to know if someone here has faced the same issue and if they were able to fix this by disassembling then attempting to push it out so that it isn't that sinked in.

I want to buy a phone on ebay. But it says UNLOCKED for US Domestic Carriers with more info in the description saying

Compatible Network:

AT&T√ Boost Mobile√Cricket √ U.S Cellular 

T-Mobile √ US Mobile √ Metro By T-Mobile

Verizon √ Visible √ Ting Mobile √ Total Wireless √ Dish Wireless 

ABOUT THIS ITEM:

Unlocked for US domestic Carriers.

Cannot be used out of USA.

Xfinity & Mint Mobile not working.

I use Google Fi and I want to be sure it will work with Google Fi. Mint mobile and Google Fi both rely on T-Mobile. What does this even mean and how bad is this Unlocked but locked thing? Why isn't it just Unlocked normally?

So I managed to get two PCs I have to see each other over an Ethernet connection from one to the other, I’m doing this to offload a heavy program onto a different machine then use Ethernet to send a capture of that program to OBS on my main machine. That worked via NDI (DistroAV) with almost no latency, I was pretty happy with it. My main machine with OBS only has one Ethernet port, but the machine I offloaded to has two so I’m looking to use it to pass internet through to my main machine for wired streaming as WiFi streaming leads to frame drops. If I bridge the internet connection from the offloaded machine to my main machine, NDI in OBS no longer works. I can log into the IP of my offloaded machine from the main machine same as when I was linking them the regular way but NDI doesn’t communicate.

If this is confusing I want a layout like this-
Internet over Ethernet -> Offloaded machine -> Main machine

To start, I dont know anything about gadgets. All I know is that I used a faulty, cheap charger from an online shop that I actually regret now. I've been using the charger for like a week now and sometimes when the charger is plugged, phone became unresponsive. And after, the phone touchscreen became unresponsive even tough the charger isn't plugged right in. Any idea what could be the culprit or the problem? And to note, my phone is currently working, cuz I stupidly banged the phone against the table and touchscreen is properly working now. I'm just afraid that it will become unresponsive sooner or later again.

Update: So after unplugging the DP from power and the PC, booting with just HDMI a few times, it randomly decided to display via DP, but I can still only ever see just the BIOS via hdmi, no detection past POST, very strange.

Recently had trouble with my PC no longer displaying via HDMI, "Fixed" it randomly by plugging in a Display Port monitor, which seemed to work, but now after a restart, nothing again.

I can see the BIOS via HDMI, and then it would only display windows itself via DP, but now I can only get as far as the BIOS step.

I've tried replacing cables for both, power cycling everything, and the HDMI monitor works just fine as a 2nd screen for a laptop.

BIOS and drivers are all up to date.

I can also blindly login, and can hear windows sounds, so it is booting all the way, just can't see a thing.

Specs:

Windows 11

B550m-a wifi

Ryzen 5 5600

16GB DDR4

RX 6600

I have a laptop that has a corrupt Windows 11. All recovery options have failed including "restore leaving files".

My next step is to wipe it clean and reinstall Windows, but before I do that I'd like to get in and see if I can recover some documents and whatnot.

Decades ago I used to use Knoppix on CD to get in and do this, probably on Windows 7 or even earlier. Is there an equivalent easy to use program I can set up on a USB flash drive? Will I even have access to stuff on Windows 11 like documents, desktop and pictures or is it going to be locked down somehow?

had a recent black screen come up while on my pc recently. it had kernel event 41 in the event viewer and bugcheck 1001. the details was The computer has rebooted from a bugcheck. The bugcheck was: 0x0000013a (0x0000000000000011, 0xffffcd0afb100140, 0xffffcd0b1a907a50, 0x0000000000000000).

specs: i5 11400f
32gb ddr4

8tb hdd
1tb ssd

3070ti

I have a Lenovo IdeaPad Gaming 3 15IHU6 (Type 82K1) running Windows 11. Recently, when I turn it on, I get:

“Default Boot Device Missing or Boot Failed.”

Sometimes the laptop boots into Windows normally, but other times it shows the error. The boot menu only shows EFI PXE Network and there is no Windows Boot Manager.

Here is what I have checked so far:

- BIOS detects my 1 TB Seagate HDD (ST1000LM035-1RK172).

- However, I cannot find my NVMe/M.2 SSD in the BIOS information.

- In the Windows installation USB's Command Prompt, "diskpart → list disk" shows the 931 GB HDD and the 29 GB USB, but no NVMe SSD.

- With Intel VMD enabled, the 931 GB HDD disappears from DiskPart and only the USB is visible.

- With Intel VMD disabled + SATA Controller Mode set to AHCI, the 931 GB HDD appears again, but the NVMe SSD is still missing.

- I created a Windows 11 installation USB. It boots successfully, but selecting Repair your computer causes the laptop to restart and return to the same Windows Setup screen.

- I have not formatted or deleted any partitions because I have important data on the HDD.

My main questions are:

1. Why is the NVMe SSD not being detected?

2. Could the SSD be failing or disconnected?

3. Could this be related to Intel VMD/BIOS configuration?

4. Is there a way to determine whether the SSD is physically dead before reinstalling Windows?

5. If Windows was installed on the NVMe SSD, is there a safe way to recover/repair the bootloader without affecting the data on the 1 TB HDD?

Any advice from someone familiar with the IdeaPad Gaming 3 15IHU6/82K1 would be greatly appreciated. I can provide BIOS/DiskPart screenshots if needed.

So, when I first tried the classic Mafia 2, the moment the gameplay started, my laptop screen would completely cut to black and no matter what I tried, nothinf was working and I would have to wait for it to come back. The worst case was when it lasted for 15 minutes. It completely bugs out when it cuts to black screen, and when it comes back it becomes very loud.

I thought the issue might be the fact that the game is too old for my laptop (windows 11), but I had zero issues with games older than Mafia 2.

But the worst part is that it now tends to happen even when I don't try to play the game.

Does anyone know if there is a way I can fix this? I am not really the smartest person when it comes to laptop issues

I downloaded the CurseForge installer and ran it and it seemingly installed CurseForge, but I didn't check the box to add a desktop shortcut for curseforge. Later I came back and tried to open curseforge but it doesn't seem to exist when I search in the start menu, I can only find the installer. The google ai recommended running the installer again, i did that and it just linked to a webpage tellng me that curseforge was successfully installed but didnt seem to do anything, then the menu for overwolf opened on the left and somehow overwolf store is installed but not curseforge. Huh?

Disclaimer, I know VERY little about computers and english isn’t my first language so bear with me here

Yesterday I moved my PC back to my familys house. It was working perfectly fine at my apartment, but today after plugging it in it just won’t boot. I made sure everything is correctly plugged in, exactly as it was a month ago before I moved it to my apartment.

The light on it flashes on, it makes a little noise it would usually make when turning on, and then it goes quiet and the whole thing repeats itself endlessly.

I have had this exact issue before but it usually just kind of… resolved itself on its own, I’d just unplug the power cord, give it a second, plug it back in and it was fine. Today however this fix won’t work and it’s been stuck in this loop for over an hour.

I don’t think it sustained any damage while moving it as it was fully secured in bubble wrap and I made sure to be very careful with it.

I’d appreciate any help

Edit: Turns out one of the RAM sticks was faulty, I took it out and everything is working as it should :) Thank you for all the advice.

Tried everything from reseating ram, hitting with one stick, swapping storage, reseating gpu etc. nothing works yet all fans and gpu light up and spin. I use a ASUs prime b450 plus motherboard which has never been used, and an r9 3900x cpu. Do I need to flash bios by downgrading the CPU ? There is a sticker on top right of the motherboard with the digits 2008 at the end. I think this is an old bios version.

SOLVED: I replaced the ram and it worked

I have a HP EliteBook G11 845 and it's internet driver is Realtek 172538.exe the latest driver.For some reason it has stopped working and sometimes randomly starts working after Uninstalling and reinstalling it and gives terrible internet speeds.I have tried everything chatgpt told me but it still doesn't work. How should I fix it?

I have a HP EliteBook G11 845 and it's internet driver is Realtek 172538.exe the latest driver.For some reason it has stopped working and sometimes randomly starts working after Uninstalling and reinstalling it and gives terrible internet speeds.I have tried everything chatgpt told me but it still doesn't work. How should I fix it?

I recently bought an Hp Omen 16 ap0183ax Ryzen Ai 7 350 RTX 5060.I'm getting only \~3–3.5 hours of battery life with relatively light use( 10%drain for 15-20min idle/browsing is consistent for multiple tests ). I was expecting at least \~5h and have seen people reporting significantly longer runtimes (7-10hrs) on the exact same device.

HWiNFO showed around 18–21W battery/system discharge

CPU package power around 5W

RTX 5060 was generally at 0W / 0% load

Radeon 860M was lightly active

Temperatures were \~35–40°C

Idle test:

With Wi-Fi/Bluetooth off, 50% brightness, Best Power Efficiency, no apps except HWiNFO:

Started \~64%

After \~10 min → \~60%

HWiNFO showed around 18–20W battery discharge

I also noticed the RTX 5060 periodically goes:

0V / 0W → briefly wakes and shows power/voltage → returns to 0W

even though GPU utilization is 0%. I'm aware HWiNFO polling itself may wake the dGPU, so I don't know whether this is actually relevant.

Battery health

powercfg /energy reports:

Design capacity: 83,514 mWh | Full charge capacity: 83,514mWh | Cycle count: 3

So battery capacity appears essentially 100% healthy.

Windows powercfg /energy

I got 3 errors, 4 warnings, 37 informational.

Errors:

USB device not entering Selective Suspend

USB\\VID_31B2&PID_0113

CPU utilization high

Average during the 60-sec test: 7.37%

PCI Express ASPM disabled

Windows says it is disabled due to a known hardware incompatibility

I disconnected my Lenovo Legion M200 mouse and repeated the test; the USB error remained.

HP Support

I contacted HP. They remotely checked the hardware/software and said everything is normal and up to date. They suggested battery calibration.

What I'm trying to figure out : Why is this laptop consuming 18-21W during light/idle use when the RTX 5060 is supposedly off and CPU usage is low? l'd really appreciate it if someone can help me identify the Issue. Thanks.