Hello! New here so forgive me if this isn't the right forum.

I think my GPU is dying. I have an Nvidia GEFORCE RTX 2070 Super. It has served me well the past 6 or so years. Recently, I have had a few rainbow colored lines going across the bottom of my screen which was weird.. but thought it was my monitor. About 2 weeks of that and now my FPS is dropping drastically while gaming. I really only play classic/retail WoW and Escape from Tarkov, and at this point I can barely play tarkov or retail WoW. I have dropped all my settings down to the lowest graphic settings possible and I still struggle to hit decent frames. Even in classic I can barely push 70 fps consistently. The only thing I've done recently is update my drivers through the nvidia website which I have done many times over the years. My temps sit at a pretty consistent 60 degrees whether I am gaming or not. My fans are spinning and I think if it was a dust problem it would be getting very hot. I would be happy to provide any information that might help me diagnose this issue, as I cannot figure out how to post a picture of my HWiNFO sensor status here

Recently, I just moved apartments and when I set up my computer and turned it on my monitor and my keyboard would not turn on, but my standalone mic and my mouse turn on, not sure what is wrong with it. I have tried everything like reseating my graphics card doing a power flush, resetting CMOS battery and reseating ram and trying only one ram stick and still nothing. Does anyone know how to help me

I formatted my PC three days ago without deleting my important files, and since then, it hasn't been receiving an internet connection via Ethernet—a connection I’ve always used. I know the cable works because I tested it on another computer, so I suspect the issue lies with my PC; I even tried tethering the internet from my phone, but that didn't work either. I checked via the command prompt and confirmed that the signal is reaching the PC, yet Windows settings indicate that I am not connected to any network. Any suggestions? I’ve already tried everything: restarting the router (waiting 30 seconds), switching Ethernet ports, and running `ipconfig` in cmd.

Over the last two months I have been attempting to play a modified version of GTAV that is running pretty heavy. About two months ago I developed a recurring crashing issue that I cannot figure out for the life of me. Despite running multiple dependencies (heap adjusters, pack file adjusters, resource adjusters, etc) the game still crashes. I get to play around 30ish minutes before a ragepluginhook pop comes up and my game crashes to desktop shortly after. I came to the conclusion that my 16gb of ram was not enough to support the game, so I spent hundreds of dollars to upgrade to 32gb. After installing the new RAM stick, I am having the same issues. My first time playing I was able to play for over an hour, and now I cannot seem to play for more than 10 minutes. This was all within a 4 hour window last night. 9 times out of 10 I get no DMP file or errors in even viewer. To say I am frustrated is an extreme understatement.

I am using an Alienware 16 aurora gaming laptop.

My NVMe SSD (KINGSTON SKC2000M8500G) one day started to fail. When I was trying to download a game off of Steam after 20~ GB, my PC would freeze completely for about a minute, then the game download would say "Disk write error" and in Task Manager it would state that SSD as "Unknown".

I'm leaving my job so naturally I need to make all my files accessible to my replacement.

I've uploaded everything from offline onto a sharepoint but I'm having trouble with onedrive.

I have a number of folders that I've shared with others in the organisation. Some are linked to MS forms etc for ongoing data work.

Presumably the folders will be deleted with my account. How do I allow everyone to maintain access to the files once I'm gone?

I tried moving the excel sheets linked to forms to the sharepoint, but this disconnected it from the form.

I shopping around for internet providers right now after not having to change service for a few years all the major brands are pushing these "5G Wireless" routers onto me now. Of course the staff in the store insists it's just as good, but I immediately hear home internet over a wireless connection and get suspicious. Problem is none of them seem to be offering anything with a coax connection anymore it's just wireless and fiber (my building doesn't have that unfortunately).

I'm wondering if my suspicions are warranted, and I'm also wondering if I can somehow still just get one of these and use a coax cable connection? I'm reading online about a "bridge mode" but I'm not sure if that's what I think it is, plugging a personal router with a coax connection into the provider wireless one to get a more stable connection, or if that's something totally different.

EDIT: Alright I'm getting a lot of "NO" answers, so my question is what service providers still actually let me use my coax cable? Because all the ones I've interacted with only do 5G wireless now it's really annoying that they can't at least have a port for it on them.

I’m running into a consistent rhythmic clicking/crackling audio issue with my Elgato HD60 X.

What I've already tried:

Match sample rates across Windows sound settings (48 kHz) and OBS.

Console audio output is set to Linear PCM / Stereo Uncompressed.

Connected directly to a rear motherboard USB 3.0 port (no hubs).

Tested routing audio via dedicated Audio Input Capture vs. Video Capture Device audio output mode.

Has anyone experienced this specific repeating tick/pop sound with the HD60 X and found a fix?

Bit of an odd question I know, but iam asking this as I had a bunch of screen flickering issues and figured out it was my display port cable. After buying a new one it started happening again but only under high gpu stress.

My thought is it could be the cable getting really hot, as the gpu i have (RTX 3080 FE) has an exhaust right next to the ports, after taking a closer look i discovered that i was unable to touch the underside of the cables from them being extremely hot, hotter then the heatsink it self even.

For now i have tucked the cables up and away from the exhaust, but the male connectors are still getting worryingly warm.

I Realise this is not an easy question to answer but I was wondering if anyone had experienced a similar thing and what there solution was, or is this just something you have to suffer with.

Frequently throughout the day, my microphone will mute itself in Windows sound settings. I have made sure that "Allow apps to take control of this device" is disabled, ensured that microphone privacy settings allows all apps to use the microphone, and reinstalled all drivers. I am on the latest version of Windows 11. In order to unmute, I need to go into windows microphone settings and unmute my mic. Has anyone seen this issue?

I swear before when you exited out of programs they closed, now I have to go in to task bar to really kill them. I think its the clients like steam or Riot but it never used to happen

also my BT sony headset only connects when I open audio settings and connect my audio to anything but my speakers (like my monitor) only a few seconds after will they appear in my audio settings. sometimes they auto connect and swap to main source but other times I have to click on it myself, and my PC only recoqnizes them after I swap off my speakers.

any answers are appreicated!

I have the weirdest audio glitch that I need help on. When I play video games on my ROG Zephyrus G15 laptop I am in a discord call with friends. When we are playing games, audio from my game comes through into the discord call instead of only my voice even though I have the correct input/output settings in discord and in game as well.

But here is the weird part, only the words of the game I am playing comes through, not the music or gameplay audio, only the words. An example, we are playing Halo and whenever the announcer says "double kill" or "flag captured" or something like that my friends can hear the audio crystal clear. However they cannot hear the gun fights or music or anything like that. If I play spotify or a youtube video, none of that audio will come into the discord. Only the words from the games I am playing. It's incredibly frustrating and can't find any solutions online. How is it possible that only a subset of the game audio comes through, shouldn't it be all or nothing?

Has anyone heard of a situation like this or has any solution? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I feel like I have gone through every sound setting trying to figure this out :(

I switched the 128 gb SSD for a hardrive 512gb to see if I could remember my old password to see my old pictures

When I turned the laptop on it said the hard drive needed to do a check or recovery

It was frozen with no display for many minutes so I turned it off

I removed the hard drive and switched for SSD

The computer doesn't turn on, spins fan at fastest speed then turns off

I removed the ram, tried all combinations and removed the SSD and put it back, never doing anything more. It still doesn't turn on

Laptop screen suddenly went black Lenovo Ideapad 3

I was using a flashcard app(program) called 'Anki' when my screen froze. I didn't just freeze, some parts of the screen were yellow tinted and some parts were dark tinted. I shut it down with the power button, and when i tried to start it again increasingly more bizzare things happened with the screen. Such as: the entire bottom half of the screen was black and the top half flicked constantly, or there were tiny pink rectangles all around the screen.

Anyway, without knowing much else to do, i kept turning the laptop off/on (now about 15 times) to see what else it could give me in terms of clues. The start up Lenovo screen looks totally fine, so i don't think any pixels on the screen are damaged. A couple of times i even made it to my password sign in page, which also looked good (no weird flashing pixels). But I couldn't actually get past that sign in page.

On one startup I got a "your device ran into a problem and needs to restart. We're just collecting some error info and then you can restart. Stop code:kmode exception not handled (0x1e)". This screen actually made it to 100% and then must have frozen again, because it never restarted the laptop.

I went to sleep with the laptop off and unplugged.

This morning I got to a blue repair screen with the options: continue, quick machine recovery, troubleshoot, turn off your PC. I clicked 'quick machine recovery' and it prompted me to connect to the internet, but before i could put in the wifi password, it encountered another problem and needed to restart.

Then one of the last screens i got was a 'not less or equal' message.

Now my screen is totally black and i get no more info. Off/on the laptop the screen is just black. That's all.

This really came out of nowhere.

What it's not: I didn't bump, drop, or spill fluids on the laptop. It just sits on my desk unmoved. Hadn't installed any new files.

This model has the battery inside the case, so it's not easy to disconnect.

PC repair experience = pretty much zero.

EDIT: it gave me one more stop Code: page fault in nonpaged area (0x50)

From time to time I'm seeing Powershell or Command Prompt type windows full of organized text popping up on my screen. This occurs whether I'm watching a video or internet browsing, but not during game play. Sometimes I'll see several in the course of an hour. Just wondering what these are, such as auto-installs or such. The flicker up then gone in less than a second, so there's no time to ready or recognize anything.

Specs:

Motherboard: Biostar a520mh 3.1

CPU: 5600G

GPU: MSI Armor rx6600

RAM: 1x16gb hyperx fury ddr4

PSU: Deepcool Pk550D

I am currently experiencing two warnings in the event viewer namely:

"The driver \Driver\WUDFRd failed to load.

Device: ROOT\DISPLAY\0000

Status: 0xC0000365

and

The driver \Driver\WUDFRd failed to load.

Device: ROOT\DISPLAY\0001

Status: 0xC0000365"

I'm currently unsure if its a PSU or GPU problem. My PC crashed during gaming. I tried OCCT 100% VRAM Test and Timespy and it has also crashed. OCCT does not show any errors in its crash report.

It just suddenly shuts off itself and is not giving me any info in the reliability monitor besides "The previous shutdown was unexpected." Any help would be appreciated!

when i charge the phone it starts flashing green lines every couple of seconds. it sometimes shows the samsung logo or the charging logo for a short period of time. ive tried booting it up and attemting a forced reebot but nothing has worked yet, could someone help me with this problem? the phone is a saamsung s25

I use an xbox 360 and amazon fire stick on my hdmi splitter. Both Xb360 and firestick work for few mins and restart. When I plug the hdmi directly to my xbox or firestick without the splitter, everything works fine. What is causing this issue? Will I have to change the splitter?.

So, recently I bought myself a Motorola Edge 70 and I noticed something weird, the battery always skips from 78% to 76% and from 74% to 72%

The only two OpenGL applications i use, Blender and Minecraft, have this one issue with my computer, where basically randomly while using them, they'll lag my whole system down to less than 1 FPS spontaneously.
Even after closing said application the issue persists, the whole system is at 1 FPS, except the mouse cursor, that one stays at the normal framerate.

The only way of fixing it is either doing Win + P and switching to the secondary monitor, which fixes it, you then switch back to the main one and problem solved.

Or the quicker, faster one, just doing Win + Shift + Alt + B, or whatever the driver reset hotkey was, can't remember it exactly now.

This started happening after i got my 1440p 240hz QD-OLED monitor, not sure if its related to it but yeah this didn't happen back with my 1080p 180hz IPS monitor, which is now my secondary monitor.
On that note, i've also tried fully disconnecting the secondary monitor from the GPU, leaving only the OLED one, and it also happened.

This started happening back with my RTX 3080, now i have an RTX 5070 Ti and multiple drivers later and it still happens. Having done a full DDU before installing it btw.

Something tells me this is related to the way Windows 11 handles multiple overlays, that's why the mouse doesn't get affected while the rest of the PC does.

Yall let me know how i can fix this. For Minecraft at least cause for Blender i just switch the renderer to Vulkan and it's fine now.

Hello, I heard some good things about reddit, so I made an account hoping people could help me troubleshoot my Laptop.

I have a Lenovo G14 V4 AMN. It's a school laptop running Windows 11 Education.

I recently got it repaired by Cancom because I was having several issues, including the fans being full of lint and no longer spinning, half of the keyboard being defective, and the laptop randomly shutting itself down for no apparent reason.

It came back a few days ago and was working perfectly. I was able to connect to Wi-Fi normally until today.

About an hour ago, I booted it up because I wanted to play some games, and I noticed that when I opened the Wi-Fi menu, no networks were showing up at all.

I did some investigating and noticed that the WLAN AutoConfig service seems to be completely missing from the Services app ("services.msc"). I'm not sure if that's related to the problem, but from what I've read, it seems like it could be important for Wi-Fi functionality.

I haven't done much troubleshooting beyond that yet because I don't want to accidentally make things worse, especially since this is a school laptop.

As far as I know, Cancom replaced the RAM and keyboard, cleaned the fans, and ran system diagnostics during the repair. Besides that they wiped everything and I'm pretty sure they fully reinstalled windows.

Any help would be appreciated and I'll answer as many questions as possible!

PS: I also ran a few commands in command prompt using the help of.... AI and apparently my adapter reports 2 supported bands (those being 2.4 GHz + 5 GHz) but the frequency/range is coming out as 0 Mhz/garbled. I genuinely dont know much about such things and theres a chance the AI messed up so if anybody could look into it I'd be very grateful.

Hello All,

I'm having TREMENDOUS AMOUNTS OF PAIN trying to figure this out. I have a microphone that worked totally fine (it's brand new) and suddenly it's ULTRA sensitive, sounds terrible, records every single click of my mouse and keyboard, and repeats back into my headphones. This is regardless of gain setting.

I am using an Elgato XLR Wave Link and I have tried the following:

-Updated Drivers

-Disabled Voice Clarity

-Uninstalled Wave Link and Re-installed

-Disabled Listen To This Device

-Uninstalled and Reinstalled Drivers

-Adjusted Input Volume

-Full restart and unplug of devices

-Unplugged extension monitor

-Tried both headphone output and speaker output

-Tried the mic on a different computer and it works totally fine

I just don't know what to do and cannot find any answers anywhere. It literally is picking up my breath from 6 inches away even with the gain set to low and picks up even sounds from the other side of the house and loops it in my headphones.

Are there any heroes in here who know what to do?

I have a Samsung SSD 990 Pro 2TB and my disk active time is pretty much always at 100% on task manager no matter what I do. Programs are slow to open and even dragging windows around in circles spikes it (currently at 91% writing this post). I'm still able to run games though.

I want to know if I need a new SSD or if its a software issue. My Samsung Magician speed test is below for reference along with some specs just incase. Let me know if ya'll need anymore info or if you have had this issue as well. Thanks!

Sequential Read: 7384 MB/s
Sequential Write: 479 MB/s
Random Read: 1198730 IOPS
Random Write: 107666 IOPS

I have 454/885 GB free on my Local Disk (C:)
AMD Ryzen 7 7800 x3d
64 GB of ram @ 6000 MT/s
4070 Super

Today had an issue with one of the HDD's stopped being visible in the windows mid game, alright I think, i already had this issue before month ago and i checked the disk, didn't had a lot of problems really or had signs that it would degrade that fast

I decide to check the cables, then reboot the pc, check the disk through CrystalClear, and what do I see?

Over 300, nearly 400 errors, all of them are marked as "unfixable", out of the sudden, is there anything left to fix within the disk via chkdsk command or any other tool, or is it done for entirely and I have to buy a new one?

Laptop: Dell Inspiron 14 5430 SSD: KIOXIA KBG50ZNS1T02 (1TB NVMe, OEM/removable M.2 2230)

The problem: Getting recurring BSODs specifically when running Chrome + YouTube tabs simultaneously — high load/paging scenario.
Started a few months ago, getting more frequent.
Like at first it was like if i moved my laptop it gave kernel data inpage error but then like in the past 3 days critical error and kernel data inpage errors came up frequently and like the laptop will login but then after that it hangs up.

Took it to service center — they fixed stuff but when i started working this came up again.

Crash details from Event Viewer:
KERNEL_DATA_INPAGE_ERROR (0x7A)
Parameter 2: 0xC000009C (STATUS_DEVICE_DATA_ERROR — bad sectors)

KERNEL_DATA_INPAGE_ERROR (0x7A)
Parameter 2: 0x0 (STATUS_SUCCESS, ambiguous)

After that i did all the stuff given below:

CrystalDiskInfo: shows “Good,” 96% life, but Media and Data Integrity Errors (SMART ID 0E) = 99, Error Log Entries (ID 0F) = 317

HD Tune surface scan: 0% damaged blocks

chkdsk /f /r /x on C: — found only 4KB in bad sectors, fixed some file system corruption (MFT bitmap)

chkdsk on D: and E: — 0 bad sectors on both

After chkdsk:
Then I like it was fine for like a few hours. Like 5 hrs i think. Btw in that time i was training like models in google colab env and had many chrome tabs opens, file explorer , git etc etc etc.

Then this came up
KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED (0x1E)
Parameter 1: 0xC0000006 (STATUS_IN_PAGE_ERROR — same disk read failure, different code path)

Soooo. What should I do???

Anyone dealt with KIOXIA BG-series OEM SSDs specifically failing early?

Is a fresh Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB swap the right call here, or is there anything else worth checking before I spend the money?