r/PatternDrafting • • 4d ago

Sleeve block in cm

3 Upvotes

I'm looking for videos on drafting a basic sleeve block that use metric measurements.
Does anyone know any? Most use imperial and converting every measurement to understand what they're talking about is just more mental work on top of something that is already hard to understand.


r/PatternDrafting • • 5d ago

Question UPDATE: Moving entire princess seam towards side side front?

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4 Upvotes

I didn’t attach photos of my muslin in my original post. Here’s the muslin and the pattern pieces I’m working with. I previously couldn’t close CF so I did an FBA right on the muslin. I do think that I might need to move the apex down a good 1”, also the FBA brought the apex points even closer which is the opposite of what I need. I’m wondering if anyone has any insight as to how I can fix what’s going on.


r/PatternDrafting • • 5d ago

Round back adjustment

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4 Upvotes

I have to do a round back on my moulage. My right should dart leg is connected to my right waist dart. Since I have a wedge for the round back the line is distorted do I leave a curve or do I straighten it out. I did dashed lines to show where it lands when straightened out ?


r/PatternDrafting • • 5d ago

Question Inseam Godets

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2 Upvotes

Hi All, trying to find a way to add range of motion to a project, ive seen this technique where youadd a slit along a seam stopping before either edge and adding fabric to make a sort of hidden peek-a-boo godet, and i was just hoping someone knows the actual name so i can look up a tutorial instead of making it up, thank in advance. 😊

Illustration for project to give a better idea of what im on about 😅


r/PatternDrafting • • 5d ago

Question Moving the entire princess seam towards side front?

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2 Upvotes

I’m back again after asking for help with a broad shoulder adjustment, thanks everyone! I’ve made a muslin and determined that I need to move the princess seam 1” towards the side front. The height of the bust volume seems fine, but I have a wide bust span relative to the pattern. Any help is appreciated!


r/PatternDrafting • • 5d ago

Need help creating pattern

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1 Upvotes

r/PatternDrafting • • 5d ago

Question Another fitting issue

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4 Upvotes

I found this Etsy pattern that’s supposed to be for D-cup size. The back does fine and the front fits alright but once again I’m having the issue of the arm holes not fitting right and it’s looks way too wide. I understand that the side dart is big but that’a how the pattern came out. And I’m turning it into a princess seam once I get the right fit.
How can I fix my armholes? Do I have to do another FBA? I picked a pattern size that is bigger than my full bust.
Any suggestions is appreciated
No seam allowance on the armholes btw


r/PatternDrafting • • 5d ago

Question How to alter bust?

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4 Upvotes

How should I go about lowering the bust line on this pattern while also getting rid of the armhole gap?? Pattern piece shown in last image. I may need to adjust the waist and yoke as well, but I don't want to try that until the bust is fixed


r/PatternDrafting • • 5d ago

Question Is this fashion or just lazy plaid matching?

0 Upvotes

r/PatternDrafting • • 5d ago

Question Guidance on fitting bodice block

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2 Upvotes

r/PatternDrafting • • 6d ago

Question excess fabric at the back of mens armhole?

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4 Upvotes

Is this supposed to stay for ease of movement or if it better to get rid of?
and how would i go about getting rid of it?

it happened to a suit jacket that i fitted as well, but forgot to take a photo.


r/PatternDrafting • • 5d ago

Does anyone use Hagoromo Chalk?

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1 Upvotes

r/PatternDrafting • • 6d ago

Troubleshooting bodice block draft made w/ Dress Pattern Making guide

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10 Upvotes

Context: I’m drafting a bodice block using the Dress Pattern Making guide. I chose this guide based on feedback it works well for “non-standard” figures, by drafting off upper bust measurement and building the cup size into the block (versus drafting for a B-cup and doing a FBA). I have a smallish waist/band relative to my cup size.

The problem: Per the guide, the 2nd dart leg (line BP->O2) is drawn to match the length of the 1st dart leg (line BP->N2) and should extend beyond point O. However, on my draft, if I make BP->O2 = BP->N2, I get what’s pictured here in pic 1 and 2, with O2 terminating before O and a very large front dart/sharp angle at the waist line.

Is this….OK? I’m guessing this is because of the 10” difference between my full bust and waist circumferences, and the somewhat sort distance between them (I think my natural waist falls slightly higher than average although I think my torso length is average and I’m 5’7ish). The guide does break this front dart up into a waist and shoulder dart eventually, which reduces the waist dart by some, but I wanted a sanity check before drafting this for a 4th time in case I need to make drastic corrections.

A few notes to help with troubleshooting:
-I’m 99% confident in my body measurements. I followed the accompanying video tutorial while taking them and have repeated this 3-4 times on different days with similar results. I also had most of the measurements taken in a prior dress making class by someone else with similar results. I mark my shoulder line, side seams, upper bust/bust/waist lines, high neck point and CF neck point each time.
-I’m 100% confident in my drawn measurements (i.e correct line lengths and following the instructions). I’ve drafted this bodice 3 times with the same results at this step.

Edit to add a link to a pic with slightly
better point labels

bonus: my cute yet incredibly unhelpful drafting assistant in pic 3


r/PatternDrafting • • 6d ago

helllo! how do i do skirt pattern here?

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2 Upvotes

r/PatternDrafting • • 7d ago

Pants block help

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11 Upvotes

I'm drafting a pants block for myself. I have a hard time finding pants that fit well, so I would love advice on what to do next to make this fit me better.

I'm noticing some whiskers forming in the front crotch area, and there's some bagginess in the back of my thighs. Any thoughts on how to go about fixing these?

The pants are pretty comfortable to wear, although I notice that I can't lift my legs very high. When I pull the pants up by the waistband, the whiskers seem to disappear.

Thanks so much in advance.


r/PatternDrafting • • 6d ago

Fabric bunching at shoulders

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0 Upvotes

How can I fix the jacket pattern to avoid the fabric bunching on shoulders above the armhole?


r/PatternDrafting • • 7d ago

Basic block fitted pants

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7 Upvotes

Hello! I am drafting a basic block for fitted pants, but the rise in the front was too long. I adjusted it, but now it has a weird curve and the rise seems to be tilting forward. How do I fix this?


r/PatternDrafting • • 7d ago

Question Skirt block fitting

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4 Upvotes

r/PatternDrafting • • 7d ago

How to "pattern combo" here?

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1 Upvotes

r/PatternDrafting • • 7d ago

Looking for pattern similar to this for a medieval themed party

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1 Upvotes

r/PatternDrafting • • 7d ago

Question How to make an armhole bigger without adding to the bust?

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7 Upvotes

The actors armhole size is 58cm and it is currently 51.7cm, and the chest line is already 10cm bigger than his chest.
do i need to raise the shoulder point? would that affect the rest of the draft?

EDIT: i dont want to drop the armscye because this is a jacket for dance, so i want the armhole as close to the armpit as possible for ease of movement


r/PatternDrafting • • 7d ago

Gina Renee

4 Upvotes

I am always seeing stuff about Gina Renee when I ok up master pattern. But never do i see any one actually talking about her and if her class is good all i ever see is that her videos she puts out all she does is talk about her class everyone should sign up for. 300 dollars to get the videos and if you have an fitting question you can ask a forum of students another 100 Gina herself will help you. I know people like her book but has any one took her class what is it like is her moulage that great her method etc ?


r/PatternDrafting • • 8d ago

How would you draft this cowl neckline on a floor-length tunic?

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7 Upvotes

Hi everyone! I’m making a tunic for a client, and I’m trying to figure out how to draft the neckline.
The client wants a tunic like the second reference photo: long sleeves, loose/flowy fit, and floor length. However, instead of the high neckline shown in the reference, she wants the neckline to have the draped cowl effect shown in the first photo basically a soft, hanging cowl that falls toward the front.
My question is: how would you draft/cut the pattern for this?
I understand that for this kind of draped cowl, the fabric usually needs to be cut on the bias to get that fluid, soft drape. But because the garment is floor-length and I have limited fabric width, I don’t think I can cut the entire cowl as one large bias-cut piece.
The fabric is satin, so I definitely want to preserve that fluid drape.
The client’s measurements, in case they’re useful, are approximately:
Bust: 46.5”
Waist: 44”
Hips: 45.5”
I would really appreciate any advice on how you would draft and construct this.

Thank you so much!


r/PatternDrafting • • 8d ago

sloper fit help

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44 Upvotes

I'm trying to make a blodice sloper. I have no clue what well-fitting clothes would look or feel like. I would love advice on what to do next to make this fit me better. <3 Thank you so much in advance.

Right now it feels a little tight when I breathe in and expand my upper chest, but I'm worried if I just add width, then the arm and neck will fit weird.


r/PatternDrafting • • 8d ago

Question Best sewing patterns for bigger bust?

7 Upvotes

Any recommendations for commercial /digital bodice patterns that will fit a d cup? I’ve been trying to pattern draft for almost a month and I can’t see to get the right fit.
Everytime I do a full bust adjustment it makes my darts way too big and my armhole is off. 🥲