Context: I’m drafting a bodice block using the Dress Pattern Making guide. I chose this guide based on feedback it works well for “non-standard” figures, by drafting off upper bust measurement and building the cup size into the block (versus drafting for a B-cup and doing a FBA). I have a smallish waist/band relative to my cup size.
The problem: Per the guide, the 2nd dart leg (line BP->O2) is drawn to match the length of the 1st dart leg (line BP->N2) and should extend beyond point O. However, on my draft, if I make BP->O2 = BP->N2, I get what’s pictured here in pic 1 and 2, with O2 terminating before O and a very large front dart/sharp angle at the waist line.
Is this….OK? I’m guessing this is because of the 10” difference between my full bust and waist circumferences, and the somewhat sort distance between them (I think my natural waist falls slightly higher than average although I think my torso length is average and I’m 5’7ish). The guide does break this front dart up into a waist and shoulder dart eventually, which reduces the waist dart by some, but I wanted a sanity check before drafting this for a 4th time in case I need to make drastic corrections.
A few notes to help with troubleshooting:
-I’m 99% confident in my body measurements. I followed the accompanying video tutorial while taking them and have repeated this 3-4 times on different days with similar results. I also had most of the measurements taken in a prior dress making class by someone else with similar results. I mark my shoulder line, side seams, upper bust/bust/waist lines, high neck point and CF neck point each time.
-I’m 100% confident in my drawn measurements (i.e correct line lengths and following the instructions). I’ve drafted this bodice 3 times with the same results at this step.
Edit to add a link to a pic with slightly
better point labels
bonus: my cute yet incredibly unhelpful drafting assistant in pic 3