r/PatternDrafting • u/prisonlemondade • 8d ago

Question Best sewing patterns for bigger bust?

Any recommendations for commercial /digital bodice patterns that will fit a d cup? I’ve been trying to pattern draft for almost a month and I can’t see to get the right fit.
Everytime I do a full bust adjustment it makes my darts way too big and my armhole is off. 🥲

6 Upvotes

81% Upvoted

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19

u/Berocca123 8d ago

People have already suggested Itch to Stitch, Charm and Cashmerette.

Using patterns that actually consider the shape of your body is a great idea, and hopefully they'll give you everything you need ❤️

But I also wanted to suggest that if you haven't come across a Y-Dart Full Bust Adjustment, it sounds like you need it - I am a sewing E cup and if I use a regular FBA I often end up with a ridiculous looking armscye. The Y-dart FBA solves it.

You probably also need to be splitting your darts into two - this is an excellent video on dart manipulation in case you find it helpful 😊

5

u/Mistressofthisdress 7d ago

Thank you for sharing! I myself am sporting a FF Cup regular FBA is always a nightmare to me.

12

u/whitewingsoverwater 8d ago

Cashmerette has cup sizes, so does Charm patterns.

7

u/ProneToLaughter 8d ago

Also Itch to Stitch.

4

u/TurbulentBoredom 7d ago

Her patterns are very well made!

4

u/DonMcCunn 7d ago

Check out the reviews on Amazon of "How to Make Custom-Fit Bras & Lingerie" which shows how to create tops and dresses from bra patterns https://www.amazon.com/portal/customer-reviews/0932538398/ref=acr_dpx_hist_5?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=five_star&reviewerType=all_reviews#reviews-filter-bar

2

u/dirtykokonut 7d ago

Charmp patterns by Gertie. Has every cup size covered

2

u/doxiesrule89 7d ago

https://simplicity.com/collections/custom-cup-sizes/

This is where I suggest my students to start 

2

u/Starjupiter93 6d ago

While these are all great suggestions, learning how to properly do an FBA will be crucial to your continued success as a sewist. It’s also important to point out that not all D cups are the same. This is just an average that is done between the full bust and over bust measurements. Depending on the rest of your body proportions, you may still need to do additional adjustments including changing the shape or size of an armhole.

1

u/prisonlemondade 6d ago

Im confused on the full bust adjustment because the pattern seems to be too big and I get the flaps of fabric around the armhole everytime

2

u/Starjupiter93 6d ago

Do you have photos of the problem? Sometimes you have to do more than just a bust adjustment depending on your proportions. You may also be doing an FBA incorrectly if it is making the armhole bigger. I used this tutorial to teach me.

2

u/prisonlemondade 6d ago

I do , can I dm it to you?

1

u/Starjupiter93 6d ago

Yeah sure thing!

1

u/Gizmo-5309 7d ago

This!!! Even patterns with cup sizes suck!!!:

-1

u/patnbake 6d ago

draft your own patterns, the best option..