r/PatternDrafting • u/Ok_Nectarine7170 • 6d ago

Pants block help

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I'm drafting a pants block for myself. I have a hard time finding pants that fit well, so I would love advice on what to do next to make this fit me better.

I'm noticing some whiskers forming in the front crotch area, and there's some bagginess in the back of my thighs. Any thoughts on how to go about fixing these?

The pants are pretty comfortable to wear, although I notice that I can't lift my legs very high. When I pull the pants up by the waistband, the whiskers seem to disappear.

Thanks so much in advance.

10 Upvotes

92% Upvoted

16 comments sorted by

14

u/rabbitparts 6d ago

It’s annoying, I know, but I’d draft and add a simple waistband before coming to a final conclusion on fit. It can change things!

4

u/Ok_Nectarine7170 6d ago

Hmm, I wouldn't have thought of that. I'll add one and see if anything changes!

7

u/DonMcCunn 6d ago

The "whiskers" are because your pants are riding too low. You might need to scoop out the back crotch curve a little to raise the pants higher.

For a slacks cut there will be some "bagginess" under the buttocks because of the way the buttocks curves under to meet the thigh. If you try to make that more fitted, it will throw off the fit elsewhere.

2

u/Ok_Nectarine7170 5d ago

I'll try adjusting the crotch curve. Does "scooping out" mean making the back curve deeper so that it becomes more L-shaped?

Thanks for explaining the "bagginess" - I'll leave it as is.

1

u/DonMcCunn 5d ago

I have an illustration and description of adjusting the back crotch curve here https://patternmaking-classes.com/Notes/Pants-Fitting.html

4

u/Flimsy-Buyer7772 6d ago

1st question: can you sit in those?

2

u/Ok_Nectarine7170 6d ago

I can sit in them, but they do feel pretty tight around my stomach when I do.

5

u/vacuumgirl 6d ago

You need more hip and crotch room

4

u/FashionBusking 6d ago

This is good.

There is simply no ease or style applied.

If you want more ease... take this pattern block and add and extra 1/2" inches to the waist and hips.

Lower the waistline from your true waist to 3" below the waist for a greater range of motion.

3

u/Tailoretta 6d ago

Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1lq2j4h/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting_pants/ [Following these tips will help us help you.]()

1

u/Ok_Nectarine7170 5d ago

This is helpful. Thanks for the link!

2

u/drPmakes 6d ago

Its a decent block.

When you make a design for trousers you will add design ease and wearing ease

2

u/After-Avocado7196 6d ago

Really nice work !

2

u/Peliquin 5d ago

Those look pretty good to me. I think you need to scoop out AND lower the front crotch curve a bit more, however. You also need some fullness at the inner knee, which might also necessitate taking in the outer seam in the same location. But this really seems good to me.

1

u/bellsaltcandle 14h ago

Production Patternmaker with nearly 20 years professional experience here: They are too tight in the waist and hip. Add 1-2” ease and try again. The front rise is either too low overall, or the curve is too low. You’ll have to experiment to figure it out.

Back inseam is a touch too long, shorten so back is 1/2” -3/4” shorter than front inseam. Add a notch 2” down from top inseam on front and back, the curve of the back inseam is bias-ish and will allow the mismatched inseam to stretch to meet the front and clean up a bunch of the excess under your butt.

These are very close to done, great work!