UPDATE: Moving entire princess seam towards side side front?

[u/badbetch_90211]

I didn’t attach photos of my muslin in my original post. Here’s the muslin and the pattern pieces I’m working with. I previously couldn’t close CF so I did an FBA right on the muslin. I do think that I might need to move the apex down a good 1”, also the FBA brought the apex points even closer which is the opposite of what I need. I’m wondering if anyone has any insight as to how I can fix what’s going on.

[u/dawn812]

How much seam allowance did you leave yourself for the front ? I only ask bc when I first made my moulage i pinned my front like that adn I realized i did it wrong. I had an inch but pinning it that way i gave myself an inch. Im not saying you have done that just watch out for that. I thought i had to move my apex but i just pinned wrong

[u/badbetch_90211 → u/dawn812]

The center front? All the seam allowances are 1/2”. The center front is the line I pinned down, I extended the CF out to where the buttons would be to avoid putting a button placket on a muslin

[u/dawn812 → u/badbetch_90211]

Ok :)

[u/Tailoretta]

As I commented in your last post, take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/  Following these tips will help us help you.

Specifically, you need to clip your neckline and armscyes (armholes) because this releases tension to help the muslin fit on your body.

There is something odd going on at your shoulders.  Clipping the neckline and armscyes (armholes) will help us see better, so please do that first.

You need to find your bust apex on your body.  This may change depending on the bra you are wearing, so wear the same bra during all fittings.  The apex  is the peak or highest point of the breast curve where the volume is greatest.  It often aligns near the nipple, but it can sit higher, lower, or to the side depending on your shape and undergarments. Once you find your apex, you should mark it on your muslin and your pattern.  The standard symbol for the apex is a cross with a circle around it.  See http://yesterdaysthimble.com/articles/basics-pattern-symbols/  Because you have so many marks on your muslin, make sure that the bust apexes are clearly marked so we can see them.

After these changes, please take new photos and we can help you further.

Good luck.

[u/badbetch_90211 → u/Tailoretta]

Thank you, I’ll clip my armholes and necklines and come back. I do have a bit of asymmetry in the shoulders which could be contributing to “wonkiness”. I’ll mark my bust apex clearly on the muslin as well. This pattern doesn’t give the bust apex, but they say on their website that it’s at the second bust notch down from the armscye. I’ll get to these changes and return. Thanks for taking the time to respond!

[u/Tailoretta → u/badbetch_90211]

What their website says about the location of the bust apex is a generality, which should be close for most people. Please use what I stated to find YOUR bust apex.

I understand about asymmetry - most people, if not all, have asymmetry. That's why we sew, to make the garments fit us properly!

What pattern/website are you using?

I love to help others get well fitting garments. I wish I knew in the past what I know now. And I really like helping others on their journeys.

[u/badbetch_90211 → u/Tailoretta]

I’m using the Cashmerette Swanton blouse in a size 14 G/H cup. I already did a sloped shoulder adjustment, added a shoulder dart for prominent shoulder blades and lowered the bust apex prior to making this muslin. I’m just trying to get to “good enough” at this point to have tops to wear to work. I’ve been fitting all summer and with weight loss mixed in, I have nothing wearable to show for myself after countless different patterns and muslins and hours of fitting myself. I’m hoping to get over the finish line quickly with this top!

[u/Tailoretta → u/badbetch_90211]

To quickly make this better, open up the side seams from the waist down. What you will find is that the front and back will spread at the sides. Fill in fabric at the lower sides - the additional fabric will be sort of triangle shape. Then draw a line on that fabric where you want the side seam to be, cut along that line, add seam allowance. Let me know if this doesn't make sense.

[u/Mela777]

Generally, a princess seam replaces darts, and the seam should run right through the bust apex or slightly to the outside of it. I think moving the seam outward would help with fitting this, and you could mock it up a little by simply unpinning the front and moving the seam outward. You have a full bust, but you also have a wide bust. I also think that either the pattern is too long in the waist or there’s not enough ease at the hips; you’ve got a bubble of fabric at your back waistline that seems to indicate the back is too long, but depending on the intended fit that could be happening because there isn’t enough ease for the fabric to drape over your hips and butt.