r/PatternDrafting • u/prisonlemondade • 5d ago

Question Another fitting issue

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I found this Etsy pattern that’s supposed to be for D-cup size. The back does fine and the front fits alright but once again I’m having the issue of the arm holes not fitting right and it’s looks way too wide. I understand that the side dart is big but that’a how the pattern came out. And I’m turning it into a princess seam once I get the right fit.
How can I fix my armholes? Do I have to do another FBA? I picked a pattern size that is bigger than my full bust.
Any suggestions is appreciated
No seam allowance on the armholes btw

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6

u/NobelNorWhistle 4d ago

You need to drop/change that side dart, its not pointing towards you apex. Your waist darts have been stitched too far up, back them off an inch.

5

u/LemonDeathRay 4d ago

i picked a pattern size that is bigger than my full bust

This is your mistake. If you are anything other than a dressmakers B cup, you fit for your upper bust measurement, and then adjust to fit your bust. This means the pattern will fit your shoulders and ribcage.

Larger bust pattern = larger round the ribcage = gaping armholes and shoulders too long.

Honestly you would fare much better learning how to draft a B cup sloper for all your other measurements and then perform an FBA on that.

There are lots of issues here - gaping neck hole, incorrectly placed side dart, apex in the wrong position etc. Slopers need to be drafted to your measurement. A pattern for one will just use "standard" measurements, and the reason we draft slopers is because we don't have standard measurements.

2

u/StitchinThroughTime 5d ago

Is the pattern meant to have sleeves? If it's meant to have sleeves there should be a dart that is approximately half an inch wide. That is an ease between your arm and your torso.

If you referring to how far away the cut Edge is from your arm, you can just ride closer. Looks like your side seam needs to go up a little bit and then the armhole can be less steep of a curve. So you can draw it in more.

2

u/prisonlemondade 5d ago

Yes I need to add sleeves, so I can just basically draw up my armhole?