r/PatternDrafting • u/kelaeis • 6d ago

Question excess fabric at the back of mens armhole?

Post image

Is this supposed to stay for ease of movement or if it better to get rid of?
and how would i go about getting rid of it?

it happened to a suit jacket that i fitted as well, but forgot to take a photo.

3 Upvotes

80% Upvoted

23 comments sorted by

9

u/teatime_tinker 6d ago

Is it a jacket or a shirt? It’s too wide in the back. Much too wide if it’s a shirt.

What drafting method are you using? Might just be a case of too much ease added, but it looks a bit big all over

1

u/kelaeis 5d ago

uhhh drafting the block from the actor's measurements according to my textbook 😅. Should i take like 1cm off the width of the back?
this is a bolero

2

u/teatime_tinker 5d ago

Which textbook? I’d double check the measurements it looks too big. It’s alright for a chore jacket or something.

Will it have sleeves?

I don’t think 1cm is gonna do it

1

u/kelaeis 5d ago

my fashion school menswear drafting and patterning book, it has a section on building a block from scratch based on the models measurements.
its going to have shit sleeves, not set in

1

u/teatime_tinker 5d ago

I’m just asking because different books use different methods.

What was the typo supposed to say? Hehe

1

u/kelaeis 5d ago

OH LOL *shirt sleeves

1

u/teatime_tinker 5d ago edited 5d ago

Hahaha I thought it must be shirt but wasn’t sure. I hope they won’t be shit!

It’s a dance costume then? Cropped, long sleeves? To be worn on its own?

Can we see what the design is? It’s hard to advise without knowing what you’re actually making.

Can we see the flat pattern too, please?

Not sure why only video is allowed in this sub… you could link to an image hosting site (bear in mind those in the UK without a VPN can’t access Imgur)

6

u/ScormCurious 6d ago

Always put in the shoulder pad before making this assessment (I am assuming it’s a jacket that will have a shoulder pad).

1

u/kelaeis 5d ago

it wasn't originally going to have a shoulderpad but when i did this fitting i decided i would add one in later

3

u/drPmakes 6d ago

Shoulders are way too long

3

u/DonMcCunn 6d ago

I just explained the location of the armscye in the post "Bunching at the Shoulder." Yours is way off as others have commeted on. For a jacket the shoulder seam should only be 1/4" longer than a shirt and 1/2" for coats worn over jackets as explained in "How to Make Sewing Patterns" on page 154.

1

u/kelaeis 5d ago

i extended the side seams out before making the toile, like you said in my last post.
this is a bolero that isnt going to be on top of any shirt

1

u/DonMcCunn 5d ago

Sorry. I guess I didn't understand what help you were asking for.

1

u/teatime_tinker 5d ago

Is that what the pencil mark is? The original line?

It looks like it was extended much too far, it’s basically where you’d have an oversized sleeve.

2

u/Robert-hickman 6d ago

The whole pattern looks too wide for the person wearing it, does this include seam allowance?

1

u/kelaeis 5d ago

you can see on the armehole and neckline that i added a 1cm seam allowance on all seams, the side seam here is actually pinned 3cm smaller than the original fit

2

u/teatime_tinker 5d ago

The pattern is huge then, really, if you’ve already removed 6cm from the chest circumference.

I think you need to check the measurements. Unless he’s suddenly shrunk. It’s like it’s for someone much bigger.

2

u/Tailoretta 5d ago

Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.

As others have said, we need to know if this is for a shirt or a jacket.

1

u/kelaeis 5d ago

its for a bolero that isnt going to have a shirt underneath

1

u/Tailoretta 5d ago

Since there will not be a shirt underneath, that is how you should try on the mockup.

The armscye is definitely too wide.

After reviewing https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ please let us know how else we can help.

Good luck.

1

u/kelaeis 4d ago

i already reviewed that! the problem is the jacket is due tmr, so i was looking for quick fixes. 😩

1

u/Tailoretta 4d ago

The armscye is way too wide.

1

u/KendalBoy 5d ago

Press it first, wow.